IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


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Sciences 
Corporation 


33  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  S72-4503 


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CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this 
copy  which  may  be  bibliographically  unique, 
which  may  alter  any  of  the  images  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  'Change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


D 


D 


D 


D 
D 


D 


D 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


I      I    Covers  damaged/ 


Couverture  endcmmagde 


Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaurde  et/ou  pelliculde 


I      I    Cover  title  missing/ 


Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 


I      I    Coloured  maps/ 


Cartes  gdographiques  en  couleur 

Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 


I      I    Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 


Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 

Bound  with  other  material/ 
Reli6  avec  d'autres  documents 

Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  c^iitortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  re  Mure  serr6e  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  intdrieure 

Blank  leaves  adr'   J  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  th  .  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajout^es 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte, 
mais,  lorsque  cela  6tait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  6x6  filmdes. 

Additional  comments:/ 
Commenteires  suppl6mentaires: 


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une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  mdthode  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiquds  ci-dessous. 


Th 
to 


I      I    Coloured  pages/ 


D 


Pages  de  couleur 

Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommag^es 

Pages  restored  and/oi 

Pages  restaur6es  et/ou  pellicul^es 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxe( 
Pages  ddcolordes,  tachet^es  ou  piqudes 

Pages  detached/ 
Pages  d^tachdes 

Showthrough/ 
Transparence 

Quality  of  prir 

Qualitd  indgale  de  rimpression 

Includes  supplementary  materit 
Comprend  du  materiel  suppl^mentaire 

On!y  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 


I      I  Pages  damaged/ 

I      I  Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 

r~~|  Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 

r    I  Pages  detached/ 

r~~]  Showthrough/ 

I      I  Quality  of  print  varies/ 

I      I  Includes  supplementary  material/ 

I      I  On!y  edition  available/ 


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sic 
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Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  dtd  filmdes  d  nouveau  de  fapon  d 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  film6  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqud  ci-dessous. 

10X  14X  18X  22X 

I    I    I    M    I    I    I    I    I    I    I    I    I 


12X 


lex 


20X 


26X 


30X 


24X 


28X 


32X 


ails 

du 

difier 

Line 

lage 


Tha  copy  filmari  her*  has  been  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of: 

Library  Division 

Provincial  Archives  of  British  Columbia 

The  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
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filming  contract  specifications. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  —-^  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 


L'exemplaire  film*  fut  reproduit  grAce  A  la 
ginArosit*  de: 

Library  Division 

Provincial  Archives  of  British  Columbia 

Les  images  suivantes  ont  AtA  reproduites  avec  ie 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tonu  de  la  condition  et 
de  la  nettet*  de  l'exemplaire  filmA,  et  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 

Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprimis  sont  filmis  en  commen^ant 
par  Ie  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
derniire  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  Ie  second 
plat,  salon  Ie  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  filmis  en  commenpant  par  la 
premiAre  pana  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  derniire  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaitra  sur  la 
derniire  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  seion  Ie 
cas:  Ie  symbole  — ^  signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  Ie 
symbole  V  signifie  "FIN". 


Mops,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  Atre 
filmis  A  des  taux  de  reduction  diffArents. 
Lorsqua  Ie  document  est  trop  grand  pour  Atie 
reproduit  en  un  seul  clichA,  il  est  filmA  A  partir 
de  Tangle  supArieur  gauche,  de  gauche  A  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  la  nombre 
d'images  nAcessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  mAthode. 


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JOURNAL 


OP  A 


voyjwe  in  the  missionary  ship  duff, 


Hf 


Af 


TO     THE 


PACIFIC     OCEAN     IN      THE      YEARS      ITOS, 

7,  8,    9,  1800,   1,  2,  &c. :    comprehending 

AUTHENTIC     AND     CIRCUMSTANTIAL     NAR- 


I  it 


RATIVES    OF   THE    DISASTERS    WHICH 
ATTENDED    THE    FIRST    EFFORT 
OF     THE     "    LONDON     MIS- 
SIONARY   SOCIETY. 

Interspersed  with  a  variety  of  singular  incidents 
and  adventures, 

WITH  AN  APPENDIX; 

Containing  interesting  circumstances  in  the  life  of  Captaia 

James  Wilson,  the  ccmmander  of  the  DufF,  when  he 

was  engaged  in  the  wars  in  the  East  Indies,  and 

taken  prisoner  by  Hyder  Ally's  troops, — his 

bold  attempt  to  escape,  and  subsequent 

difficulties. 


•t 


IB 

rift 
IS 


^ 


BY  WILLIAM  SMITH. 


NEW.YORK  : 

PUBLISHED    AND    SOLD    »V  y^OjLLtNS    AND    C0» 
NO.    1B9,    FEARLHSTREET. 

1813. 


TWO 


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•*■ 


Disirid  of  Neiv- 1  orfc,  &s. 


Bi 


.^L.  S.) 


'E  IT  REMEMBERED,  that  on  the  twenty-eighth 
tlay  of  September,  in  the  thirty-eighth  year  of  the  Inile 
pendence  of  the  United  Statcsof  America,  AVilliam  Sx'ith 
of  tlie  said  District,  hath  deposited  in  this  office  the  title 
of  a  Book,  t!ie  right  whereof  lie  claims  as  Proprietor,  in 
tlie  words  following,  to  wit :  "Journal  ok  a  voyage  in  thr  mission- 
ary SMiP  ni'FF,  to  the  pacific  ocean  in  the  years  179",  7,  8.  9 
1800,  I,  2,  &e.  :  comprehending  authentic  and  circimstantial  nar- 
ratives of  the  disasters  aViiich  attended  the  first  effort  of  t.ie 

LONDON  missionary  SOCIETY.  INTERSPERSED  WITH  A  VARIETY  OF  SIN- 
GULAR incidents  and  adventures,  WITH  AN  APPENDIX  CONTAINING 
INTERESTING  CIRCUMSTANCES  IN  THE  LIFE  OF  CAPTAIN  JAMES  WILSON, 
THE  ■  OMMANDER  OF  THE  DUFF,  WHEN  HE  WAS  ENGAHED  IN  THE  WARS 
IN  THE  EAST  INDIES,  AND  TAKKN  PRISONER  BY  HYDEH  ALLV's  TROOPS — 
HIS  BOLD  ATTEMPT  TO  ESCAPE,  AND  SUBSEQUENT  DIFFICULTIES." — BV 
WILLIAM   SMITH. 

In  conformity  to  the  Act  of  the  Congress  of  the  United  States,  entitled 
"  An  Act  for  the  encouragement  of  Learning,  by  securing  the  copies  of 
Maps,  Charts,  and  Books  to  the  authors  and  proprietors  of  such  copies, 
during  the  time  therein  mentioned."  And  also  to  an  Act,  entitled  "  an 
Act,  supplementarj/  to  an  Act,  entitled  an  Act  for  the  encouragement  of 
Learning,  by  securing  the  copies  of  Maps,  CTIiarts,  and  Books  to  the  au- 
thors and  proprietors  of  such  copies,  during  the  times  thei'ein  mentioned, 
and  extending  the  benefits  thereof  to  the  arts  of  designing,  engraving 
and  etching  historical  and  other  prints." 

THERON  RUDD,  Ckrk  of  the  Nen'-York  District. 


\- 


f'l 


..^. 


PREFACE. 


i' 


AMONG  Ihe  various  literary  productions  which 
ai*e  continually  offered  for  public  information  and 
patronage,  none  are  so  much  sought  after,  or  read 
with  so  much  interest,  as  authentic  narratives  of  the 
navigator  and  traveller.  The  mind  of  the  reader,  not 
being  confined  to  explore  any  particular  abstruse  sci- 
ence, pursues  them  in  their  journey,  and,  with  a  fel- 
low-feeling enters  into  their  circumstances,  when  pre- 
sented with  the  incidents  and  adventures,  to  which 
they  have  been  subject.  That  pleasure  and  utility 
are  afforded  by  perusing  works  of  this  kind,  is  gene- 
rally acknowledged ;  the  author,  therefore,  is  of  opin- 
ion that  this  little  book  will  not  be  unacceptable,  as 
the  events  therein  narrated  are  conceived  to  be  in- 
teresting, and  suitable  to  all  descriptions  of  readers. 

This  compilation,  which,  for  the  most  part,  wau 
made  from  actual  observation  and  experience,  is  res- 
pectfully presented,  unadorned  with  studied  elegance 
of  language  ;  it  is  therefore  hoped  that  the  reader,  be- 
ing only  desirous  of  information,  will  also  possess  the 
candour  to  overlook  the  defects,  in  this  respect,  of 
which  the  writer  is  fully  sensible ;  or  the  inaccuracies 
which  may  have  escaped  his  notice. 


4290$ 


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niMii 


i 


W 


IV 


PREFACE. 


The  following  pages  are  principally  intended  to 
exhibit  the  enlarged  and  benevolent  object  of  the 
"  London  Missionary  Society,"  whose  motives  were, 
to  establish  missionary  settlements  on  the  numerous 
groups  of  islands  in  the  Pacific  ocean ;  to  disseminate 
the  gospel  of  Christ  among  "  those  that  sit  in  dark- 
ness, and  in  the  shadow  of  death,  being  bound  in  af- 
fliction and  iron ;"  and  to  introduce  useful  learning, 
and  the  arts  and  sciences ;  the  preparation  of  the 
ship,  her  arrival  at  Otaheite,  and  the  subsequent  pur- 
suits and  disasters  of  the  Missionaries ;  and  the  pecu- 
liar dispensations  of  Divine  Providence,  which  the 
writer,  and  several  individuals  of  the  mission  expe- 
rienced. 

The  increasing  intercourse  of  Europeans  and  A- 
mericans,  with  this  remote  par^  of  the  globe,  has  ex- 
cited much^esire  of  obtaining  correct  informption 
ooncerning  a  people  who  have  attracted  such  a  share 
of  attention  and  inquiry  :  it  is  therefore  also  intended 
to  describe  some  of  the  peculiar  customs  and  man- 
ners of  the  islanders,  together  with  the  situations, 
nature,  and  productions  of  this  delightful  part  of  the 
world. 

New-York,  July,  1813. 


,,,  /\iV«*  V 


&•«■'.;• 


>. 


JOURNAL 


OF    A 


VOYAGE    TO    THE 


PACIFIC    OCEAN. 


CHAPTER  I. 


An  introduction,  giving  a  view  of  the  formation  of  the  "  London 
Missionary  Society,"  the  eqnipinent  of  the  Ship  Duff;  the  designa- 
tion of  the  Missionaries,  and  their  departure  from  England. 

J.N  the  year  1796,  a  number  of  respectable  persons 
in  London,  and  various  parts  of  England,  friendly  to 
the  extension  of  the  Redeemer's  Kingdom,  conceiv- 
ed that  missions  to  the  numerous  groups  of  islands  in 
the  Pacific  Ocean,  would  be  crowned  with  the  hap- 
piest results.  In  pursuance  of  which,  many  professing 
christians  of  divers  denominations,  were  united  in  a 
body,  the  more  effectually  to  promote  this  laudable 
work,  and  assumed  the  title  of  "  the  London  Mission- 
ary Society."  Their  views  were  principally  directed 
to  the  Society  Islands,  the  Friendly,  the  Marquesas, 
the  Sandwich,  and  the  Pelew  ;  but  the  first  object  of 
their  benevolent  intentions  was  the  Society  Islands. 
Accordingly  the  ship  I>/(^burthened  300  tons,  com- 

B 


(     2     ) 

manded  by  captain  James  Wilson,  was  purchased 
and  prepared  for  the  reception  of  the  Missionaries  ; 
who  were  also  abundantly  supplied  by  the  Society 
with  mechanic  tools,  clothes,  books,  medicines,  &,c. 

August  10th,  1796.  The  ship  being  complete  in 
her  equipment,  thirty  persons  having  been  selected, 
were  assembled  by  the  Directors  at  the  house  called 
Zion  Church  in  Whitechapel,  and  were  publicly  de- 
signated as  Missionaries;  when  each  was  presented 
with  a  bible,  accompanied  with  an  impressive  charge 
suitable  to  the  solemnity  of  the  occasion. 

After  the  solemn  appointment  of  the  Missionaries 
to  their  work,  the  evening  preceding  their  embarka- 
tion, they  were  assembled  with  the  Directors,  and 
many  other  christian  Friends  at  Haberdashers'  Hall, 
where  they  united  in  "  breaking  of  bread  and  prayers." 
The  Missionaries  were  then  commended  to  the  di- 
"'♦•'  -  care  and  protection  of  the  great  Head  of  the 
ch. 
At  4  A.  M.  many  christian  friends  from  London 
accompanied  the  Missionaries  to  the  ship,  which  was 
laying  at  Blackwall. 

At  6  A.  M.  weighed  anchor,  and  dropped  down  to- 
Gravesend.  Displayed  the  Missionary  banner  at  the 
mizen  top  gallant  mast  head, — viz.  three  doves,  ar- 
gent, each  a  sprig  of  olive  in  her  mouth,  on  a  field  of 
blue  :  in  passing  down  the  river,  amidst  numerous 
spectators,  sung  several  hymns  suitable  to  the  oc- 
casion. 

At  11,  came  to  an  anchor  off  Gravesend.  Many 
friends  who  had  accompanied  us  hence  from  London, 


■"^■^.v 


(     3     ) 

took  their  affectionate  leave.  Three  of  the  directors, 
viz.  Dr.  Hawies,  Mr.  Wilkes,  and  Mr.  Brooksbank, 
remained  on  board,  designing  to  proceed  with  the 
ship  to  Portsmouth,  and  to  aesist  in  making  the  ne- 
cessary arrangements  for  the  voyage.  This  night, 
being  the  first  the  Missionaries  passed  on  board  of 
ship,  (all  but  two  or  three  being  landsmen,)  consider- 
able difficulties  arose  respecting  the  slinging  and 
making  a  right  use  of  their  hammocks  :  some  in  at- 
tempting to  get  in  manifested  such  a  degree  of  awk- 
wardness, that  instead  of  obtaining  their  object,  they 
fell  over  on  the  other  side  to  the  deck  ;  but  after  a 
few  instructions  and  experiments  they  managed  pret- 
iy  well,  and  found  their  new-fashioned  beds  very 
comfortable. 

August  11th,  1797.  The  Missionaries  were  em- 
ployed in  preparing  for  sea,  stowing  away,  fixing 
chests,  clearing  decks,  &c.,  and  were  divided  into 
messes,  the  families  and  single  men  separately. 

13th,  P.  M.  Pleasant  breeze  and  fair.  Weighed 
anchor  and  proceeded  for  the  Downs :  the  wind  con- 
tinuing fair,  concluded  to  sail  for  Portsmouth. 

14th  being  Sabbath,  Dr.  Hawies  preached  in  the 
morning  on  the  quarter  deck :  the  afternoon  was  oc- 
cupied by  Mr.  Brooksbank,  and  the  evening  by  Mr. 
Wilkies.  We  were  perhaps  the  first  professing  church 
which  ever  employed  the  first  day  of  the  week  in  that 
capacity,  in  such  a  situation,  and  on  so  singular  an 
occasion. 

1 5th,  about  8  A.  M.  a  sloop  of  war  hailed  us,  and 
gave  information  of  a  French  privateer  lurking  about 


(  *  ) 


f< 


m 


i 


ill  the  offing:  after  the  usual  ceremony,  the  sloop 
hauled  her  wind  and  otootl  in  the  supposed  direction 
of  the  privateer.  Shortly  after  our  separation  from 
the  eloop,  we  heard  two  jjuns  ;  the  report  came  from 
the  direction  in  which  the  sloop  stood.  Probably  she 
had  fallen  in  with  the  enemy. 

16th,  at  6  A.  M.  arrived  in  sight  of  Spithead;  and 
shortly  after  came  to  an  anchor :  hoisted  the  Mission- 
ary colours,  as  signal  to  our  friends  at  Portsmouth ; 
when  Mr.  Griffin  of  Portsea,  Mr.  Eyre  of  Hommerton, 
Mr.  Bogue  of  Gosport,  and  many  other  friends  came 
off.  Also  we  were  boarded  by  a  lieutenant  from  the 
admiral's  ship,  who  knew  nothing  of  the  equipment, 
or  the  object  we  had  in  view.  Our  appearance,  to- 
gether with  the  strange  colours,  excited  no  little  sur- 
prise among  his  majesty's  servants.  Here  we  ex- 
pected to  join  the  East-India  fleet ;  but  it  had  sailed 
3  or  4  days  previous  to  our  arrival ;  we  were  then 
under  the  necessity  of  waiting  the  appointment  of 
another  convoy.  Shortly  after,  his  majesty's  ship, 
the  Adamant  of  50  guns,  was  appointed  as  convoy 
to  some  vessels  bound  to  Gibraltar;  with  whom  it 
was  determined  we  should  join  in  company. 

Captain  Wilson,  and  brother  Harris  and  Gillham, 
joined  the  ship ;  they  having  had  some  business  to 
transact,  could  not  conveniently  embark  in  London. 
Brother  and  sister  Hudden  quitted  the  ship  on  the 
17th,  in  consequence  of  Mrs.  H.  declining  to  accom- 
pany the  mission.  The  Directors,  therefore,  thought 
it  improper  to  continue  Mr.  H.  as  a  Missionary  under 
those  circumstances. '  This  was  much  regretted  by 


{     6     ) 

I  im  and  the  MissionarieB,  v^ho  were  under  the  neces- 
sity of  so  soon  parting  with  one  whose  affection  and 
interest,  and  godly  conversation,  were  so  manifest. 

A  passage-boat  was  employed  for  the  use  of  the 
ship,  by  which  the  Missionaries  had  frequent  oppor- 
tunities of  visiting  their  friends  on  shore,  and  attend- 
ing the  worshipping  societies  of  Portsmouth. 

23d.  The  Missionaries  were  invited  to  spend  the 
evening  on  shore,  where  Dr.  Hawies  was  requested 
to  preach  at  Mr.  Griffin's  meeting. 

25th.  This  morning  departed  this  life,  on  board 
the  Duff,  James  Cover,  Jur.,  son  of  James  and  Mary 
Cover,  aged  13  years,  after  a  sickness  of  about  5 
weeks.  The  funeral  took  place  the  following  day ; 
accompanied  by  all  the  Missionaries  to  the  Episcopal 
burying-ground  of  Portsmouth.  Brother  Cover  was 
desirous  of  making  some  observations  suitable  to  the 
solemnity  of  the  occasion,  but  was  prevented  there- 
from by  the  parish  priest. 

Sept.  2d.  James  Gaulton  was  received  on  board  to 
officiate  as  cook  to  the  Missionaries  during  the  voy- 
age, and  also  as  a  Missionary,  should  his  deportment 
be  approved.  During  our  stay  here,  the  writer  was 
visited  by  several  of  his  friends  from  London,  which 
afforded  many  very  agreeable  and  interesting  houra 
in  their  company. 

Sept.  10th.  At  8  A.  M.  the  wind  veered  round  to 
a  favourable  point;  the  Adamant  made  signal  for 
sailing.  Between  9  and  10  o'clock  the  fleet  weighed 
anchor,  intending  to  proceed  through  the  Needles. 
Our  ship  was  laid  to  for  brother  Harri^  who  was  on 

B  2 


y^-^ 


mm 


m^'T' 


(     6     ) 

dhore,  and  also  for  Dr.  Hawies  to  lake  his  leave  of- 
us ;  but  at  about  1 1  o'clock,  finding  that  neither  of 
tliem  were  to  be  seen,  and  the  fleet  increasing  their 
distance;  we  bore  up,  and  made  after  them. 

At  1  P.  M.  the  wind  heading  us,  the  convoy  made 
signal  for  anchoring;.  Tacked  ship  and  stood  back 
again  for  Spithead.  At  3  P.  M.  came  to  an  anchor 
near  our  former  situation ;  and  in  the  evening.  Dr.  H. 
and  brother  Harris  came  on  board. 

Sept.  11th,  being  Sabbath,  Mr.  Love,  of  London, 
preached  in  the  morning  on  board;  in  the  afternoon, 
Mr.  Bogue  of  Gosport,  and  in  the  evening,  brother 
Eyre. 

2Snd.  At  10  A.  M.  the  wind  being  favourable, 
the  convoy  made  signal  for  sailing.  About  half  past 
10,  weighed  and  made  sail  for  St.  Helens,  in  com- 
pany vf\i\\  the  fleet.  At  noon  the  weather  becoming 
calm,  came  to  oflf  St.  Helens.  At  2  P.  M.  Dr.  Haw- 
ies preached  his  farewell  sermon  from  3d  ch.  He- 
brews, 1st  V. ;  after  which  he  took  his  leave,  and  re- 
turned to  Portsmouth. 

23d.  At  5  A.  M.  the  convoy  made  signal  for  sail- 
ing, there  being  a  fine  breeze  from  the  eastward :  at 
6,  the  fleet,  amounting  to  about  70  or  80  sail,  was 
under  way,  and  pursued  its  course  down  the  Channel. 
24th,  P.  M.  arrived  off  Plymouth :  signal  was  made 
fbr  the  fleet  to  lay  to,  as  we  were  here  in  expectation 
of  being  joined  by  some  other  vessels :  continued 
faying  to  until  morning,  owing  to  a  heavy  sea.  Many 
of  the  Missionaries  were  sick ;  but  the  writer  has 
reason  for  great  thankfulness  that  he  has  not  expe- 


T 


T 


{     7     ) 

denced  that  distresging  complaint,  so  common  to- 
young  seamen. 

25th,  at  6  A.  M.  Made  sail  towards  Falmouth  ; 
shortly  after,  the  convoy  made  signal  for  the  fleet  to 
lay  to  ;  when,  about  10  A.  M.  we  were  joined  by  a 
frigate  and  sloop  of  war.  We  then  pursued  our  course 
down  channel  with  pleasant  weather  and  the  wind 
fair.  At  6  P.  M.  the  Lands-end  bore  north  distance 
about  5  leagues :  night  coming  on,  we  soon  lost  sight 
of  our  native  shores,  and  on  the  part  of  the  writer, 
not  without  sincere  regret. 

29th.  Wind  fair,  and  pleasant  weather,  in  com- 
pany with  the  convoy,  sailing  about  6  knots.  This 
day  a  hawk  was  caught  by  the  writer  on  the  main- 
top-gallant stay,  being  about  500  miles  from  the  near- 
est land.  Almost  as  soon  as  it  had  pitched,  it  wae 
asleep,  consequently  was  easily  secured. 

30th.  Fresh  breesses  and  pleasant  weather :  in 
company  with  the  convoy.  Lat.  at  noon  44°  5V  N. 
At  1  P.  M.  hoisted  our  ensign  as  signal  to  the 
Commodore  for  quitting  the  fleet :  the  convoy  an- 
swered by  doing  the  same.  Whilst  in  company  with 
the  fleet  our  progress  was  much  retarded  by  several 
dull  sailing  vessels  therein.  Frequently  we  were 
abreast  of  the  Commodore  under  three  topsails  only, 
while  many  were  far  astern  under  all  sail ;  therefore 
we  were  not  sorry  at  the  arrival  of  this  period. 
Crowded  all  sail,  and  stood  from  the  fleet,  as  did  also 
two  other  vessels,  supposed  bound  to  the  West  In- 
(lies.  At  8  P.  M.  no  vessels  in  sight:  all  sails  set, 
i^'ith  fresh  and  pleasant  breezes. 


/■'I 


■.*■,  :*■  j  *«  ■-? 


tf 


(  »  ) 

Oct  6th.  At  6  A.  M.  discovered  land  bearing 
south.  (Madeira.)  Fresh  breezes  and  fair;  all  sail 
«et.  At  8  P.  M.  squally  weather :  a  vessel  passed  to 
leeward,  standing  to  the  N.  E. 

10th.  Saw  a  strange  sail  in  the  S.  E.  standing  S.  W. 
obliquely  across  us.  At  11  she  hoisted  English  co- 
lours, and  fired  a  gun  to  leeward,  which  we  answered 
by  doing  the  same.  The  stranger  immediately  crowd- 
ed all  sail  and  stood  from  us :  no  doubt  from  the  num- 
bers appearing  on  our  deck,  they  supposed  we  were 
a  ship  of  war. 

13th.  Saw  the  island  of  Salt  right  a-head.  At 
noon  abreast  of  the  island  distant  about  2  or  3  leagues. 
Pleasant  weather.  At  5  P.  M.  we  were  abreast  of 
the  island  Bonavista,  distant  3  leagues  :  saw  a  vessel 
at  anchor  under  the  land.  Bent  the  cables ;  the  cap- 
tain intending  to  anchor  at  St.  Jago. 

14th.  Saw  the  island  Mayo  on  the  starboard  bow 
distant  about  3  leagues.  Caught  2  barracutas,  weigh- 
ing about  3  or  4  pounds.  Saw  four  ships  at  anchor 
under  the  land.  At  1 1  A.  M.  discovered  St.  Jago,-  — 
hauled  up  for  the  island.  At  half  past  2,  anchored 
in  Praya  Harbour,  in  company  with  an  American 
brig.  Here  we  procured  a  fresh  supply  of  water,  and 
other  necessaries.  The  town  of  Port  Praya  is  built 
upon  a  rocky  hill,  and  the  external  appearance,  to- 
gether with  their  mode  of  living,  and  society,  is  not 
very  inviting. 

15th.  After  procuring  several  necessary  articles, 
at  7  P.  M.  weighed  anchor,  and  made  sail.     The 


(     9     ) 

■V 

Missionaries  embraced  this  opportunity  of  conveying 
letters  to  England  by  the  American  l^rig. 

1 8th.  At  2  P.  M.  discovered  a  strange  sail  in  the 
west,  steering  as  if  to  speak  us.  At  half  past  6  she 
came  within  pistol  shot.  The  night  being  very  dark, 
the  ship  appeared  large,  with  her  gun  deck  ports  open 
and  illuminated  from  stem  to  stern.  This  formidable 
appearance  was  a  grand  but  dismal  sight  to  us ;  for 
supposing  she  was  an  enemy,  we  were  in  anxious 
suspense  whether  we  should  be  carried  to  France  or 
Otaheite.  But  our  fears  soon  subsided;  on  hailing, 
she  proved  to  be  the  Jack  Park  of  Liverpool,  bound 
to  the  coast  of  Guinea  for  slaves ;  and  of  twenty-two 
vessels  she  had  examined,  we  were  the  only  English 
one. 

Oct.  29th.  At  2  A.  M.  crossed  the  equator,— 
fresh  and  pleasant  breezes  from  the  S.  E.  Al  noon, 
lat.  0  41'  S.  The  usual  ceremony  observed  by  Nep- 
tune and  his  company  on  this  occasion  was  omitted. 

31st.  Discovered  the  coast  of  South  America  on 
the  starboard  bow,  distant  about  11  or  12  leagues. 
At  10  A.  M.  the  society  met  for  the  election  of  a  new 
committee;  after  which  some  conversation  ensued 
concerning  our  future  plan  of  operations.  The  ma- 
jority of  the  Missionaries  concurred  in  opinion  that  a 
separation  of  the  society  in  detachments  amongst  the 
islands,  would  be  most  likely  to  answer  the  object  of 
the  mission.  However  nothing  decisive  at  this  time 
took  place  as  to  the  formation  of  parties. 

Nov.  11th,  discovered  land  on  the  starboard  bow, 


mmnff 


(     10     ) 

At  2  p.  M.  passed  Cape  Frio,  distant  3  leagues,— 
shortened  sail,  standing  off  and  on  shore. 

1 2th,  A.  M.  Saw  a  brig  and  several  small  boats  in 
various  parts.  At  half  past  7,  spoke  one  of  the  coun- 
try boats,  but  could  not  understand  each  other. 
Hauled  in  for  the  land.  At  9  disccfvered  the  harbour 
of  Rio  de  Janeiro.  About  1  P.  M.  the  harbour-mas- 
ter came  on  board,  and  took  charge  of  the  vessel  as 
pilot :  having  arrived  abreast  a  fort  at  the  entrance  of 
the  harbour,  the  boat  was  sent  on  shore,  and  soon 
after  returned  with  an  officer  and  a  private  soldier. 
At  3  the  ship  was  brought  to  an  anchor  about  half  a 
mile  from  the  shore.  A  guard  boat  and  guard  were 
stationed  to  prevent  smuggling :  they  remained  at  the 
buoy  all  night. 

Sunday  13th.  Omitted  public  worship  this  mor- 
ning on  deck :  it  was  also  reported  there  was  to  he 
no  public  preaching  this  day ;  a  fear  prevailing  that 
on  observing  our  usual  mode  of  worship  on  the  first 
day,  we  should  give  offence  to  the  Portuguese,  who 
are  Roman  Catholics.  The  Missionaries  observed 
that  if  no  better  reason  could  be  rendered  for  omit- 
ting worship,  they  would  be  under  the  necessity  of 
entering  their  protest  against  it.  One  of  the  brethren 
requested  an  interview  with  captain  W.  on  the  sub- 
ject, who  soo**i  after  returned  with  information,  that 
we  were  at  liberty  to  proceed  as  usual.  Brother 
Lewis  commenced  the  morning  worship,  and  preach- 
ed from  3d  Gal.  12th  v.  Some  of  the  officers  and 
men  from  the  guard  boat  attended  the  worship :  they 


iirtMaMHfMMII 


iriMl 


(    n    ) 


were  very  attentive,  and  appeared  pleased,  particular- 
ly when  the  words  "  Jesus  Christ"  were  introduced. 
They  were  very  inquisitive,  but  to  our  regret  we 
were  not  able  to  understand  their  interrogatives.  In 
the  afternoon  brother  Cover  preached,  when  the  offi- 
cers and  men  from  the  guard  boat  were  present,  and 
were  equally  attentive  as  in  the  morning. 

14th.  The  officers  of  inspection  came  on  board, 
inquiring  respecting  the  ship's  cargo,  her  destination, 
&.C.  The  1  st  and  2d  mates  went  on  shore  to  undergo 
an  examination.  About  6  A.  M.  the  officers  retired 
from  the  ship,  together  with  captain  W.  At  8  the 
captain  and  mates  returned  on  board.  We  here  em- 
braced an  opportunity  of  addressing  letters  to  our 
friends ;  and  one  was  also  sent  to  the  directors  of  the 
Society  in  London. 

The  Missionaries  were  permitted  to  go  on  shore  in 
small  parties,  but  were  always  attended  by  an  officer 
of  the  guards :  the  inhabitants  behaved  with  great 
civility.  The  city  is  well  formed,  the  streets  wide 
and  commodious,  the  buildings  being  erected  mostly 
after  the  European  fashion,  though  generally  they  are 
destitute  of  glass  windows,  instead  of  which  they  sub- 
stitute Venetian  blinds.  The  harbour  is  capacious, 
and  could  safely  receive  an  immense  number  of  ship- 
ping :  the  anchorage  is  very  good,  and  surrounded  by 
a  beautiful  and  fertile  country,  variegated  with  vales, 
hills,  and  mountains.  During  our  stay  here,  a  vessel 
arrived  from  the  coast  of  Africa,  laden  with  a  portion 
of  the  natives  of  that  countrj^,  a  people  devoted  to  the 
avarice  and  cruelty  of  civilized  nations,  and  professors 


•mfm 


{     12     ) 

of  Christianity.     Here,  as  in  other  parts  of  the  conti- 
nent and  the  West  Indies,  the  ocean  groans  with  the 
burdens  of  this  iniquitous  traffic.     On  this  occasion, 
the  Monasteries,  Nunneries^  and  other  public  places 
were  illuminated,  and  joy  and  pleasure  appeared  evi- 
dent in  most  of  the  inhabitants.     On  the  following 
day,  the  distressed  and  unoffending  Africans  were 
landed,  and  publicly  sold  in  the  market  to  the  highest 
bidders.     It  may  not  be  improper  to  remind  those 
persons  who   call  themselves   christians,  who   are 
found  stealing  and  selling  their  fellow-creatures,  that 
these  are  crimos  ranked  among  the  blackest  and 
foulest  recorded  in  the  sacred  scriptures;  and  that 
the  eternal,  and  sin-avenging  God,  with  whom  we 
have  to  do,  is  both  holy  and  jealous,  and  cannot,  con- 
sistent with  his  character,  with  any  allowance  look 
upon,  or  pass  by  sin.     See  1st  Tim.  1st  ch.  10th  v. 
wherein  it  will  be  observed  that  "  men-stcalers^^  are 
particularly  noticed  ;  and  against  whom  the  sword  of 
divine  justice  is  unsheathed,  which  must  (without  re- 
pentance) inevitably  sink  them  lower  than  the  grave. 
Many  who  purchase  these  unoffending  stolen  crea- 
tures, pretend  to  justify  themselves  by  a  futile  argu- 
ment.    It  has  been  observed  that  they  did  not  go  to 
the  coast  of  Africa  to  steal  them ;  and  to  purchase 
them  when  in  this  situation,  will  no  doubt  ameliorate 
their  condition.     It  will  only  be  necessary  to  remark, 
that,  if  there  were  no  receivers  of  stolen  property, 
there  would  be  but  few  thieves  ;  and  that  the  re- 
ceivers of  stolen  property,  knowing  it  to  be  stolen,  are 
in  the  eye  of  the  law  considered  more  nefarious  than 


■     (      13     ) 

tJie  thief.  "  Let  him  that  stole  steal  no  more ;  but 
rather  let  him  labour,  working  with  his  hands  the 
tiling  which  is  good,  that  he  may  have  to  give  to  him 
that  needeth." 

There  is  a  great  number  of  monks,  friars,  and  nuns, 
in  this  city ;  and  images  representing  the  crucifixion 
are  placed  in  various  parts,  on  the  front  of  many  of 
the  private  as  well  as  public  buildings.  Idolatry, 
ignorance,  and  superstition  apparently  reign  here  tri- 
umphant. Wooden  gods  are  with  some  professing 
christians  in  as  great  estimation,  as  with  the  most  bar- 
barous pagans.  After  having  procured  a  supply  of 
fresh  provisions  and  water,  on  the  20th  Nov.  at  10 
A.  M.  weighed  anchor  and  proceeded  to  sea ;  at  7 
P.  M.  lost  sight  of  the  coast. 

29th.  Wind  fair,  and  pleasant  weather  through  this 
day.  Lat  34*»  55'  S.  At  half  past  10  P.  M.  the  wind 
freshened  and  began  to  draw  fonvard ;  at  11  P.  M. 
came  on  a  heavy  squall,  accompanied  with  lightning 
and  rain.  This  being  the  first  severe  weather  expe- 
rienced since  leaving  England,  it  created  no  little 
disquietude  among  the  Missionaries.  The  ship  heel- 
ing very  considerably,  together  with  the  seas  fre- 
quently breaking  in  upon  the  decks,  they  were  soon 
awaked  by  the  confusion,  and  supposed  the  ship  had 
struck  upon  a  sand-bank.  Their  fears  were,  however, 
soon  dispelled  by  a  message  from  the  deck,  stating 
the  situation  of  the  ship,  the  weather,  &lc. 

Dec.  3d.  Having  laboured  since  the  29th  against 
contrary  and  strong  gales,  and  heavy  seas  frequently 
breaking  in  upon  the  decks,  and  no  prospect  of  the 

C 


(  »*  ) 

weather  moderating,  captain  W.  gave  up  his  intention 
of  sailing  round  Cape  Horn,  being  apprehensive  that 
in  persevering  in  endeavouring  to  double  the  Cape, 
the  unseasoned  company  of  landmen,  women,  and 
children,  might  fall  victims  to  the  repeated  storms 
which  might  be  expected;  and  concluded  to  make 
the  eastern  passage  by  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope. 
Shaped  the  vessel's  course  accordingly,  setting  what 
sail  the  ship  could  bear.  In  the  course  of  the  four 
first  days  we  ran  by  the  log,  about  six  hundred  and 
forty  miles. 

This  gale  continued  about  three  weeks  with  little 
variation,  blowing  with  great  violence ;  the  ship  scud- 
ding under  close  reefed  topsails  and  foresail,  and  run- 
ning, on  an  average  by  the  log,  every  day  about  two 
hundred  miles. 

The  rapid  advances  we  were  making  towards 
the  place  of  our  destination,  were  truly  pleasant. 
Nothing  particular  occurred  for  four  weeks.  The 
time  was  principally  employed  by  the  Missionaries 
in  making  the  necessary  arrangements  for  the  regu- 
lation of  their  future  conduct.  We  were  visited  by 
great  numbers  of  birds,  and  also  whales  and  porpoises 
frequently  played  about  the  sliip.  There  being  an 
harpoon  on  board,  I  watched  the  opportunity,  while 
the  porpoises  were  playing  under  the  bows,  and  suc- 
ceeded in  striking  several,  only  one  of  which  was  got 
on  board ;  some  parts  of  it  afforded  a  fresh  meal,  and 
Hie  blubber  produced  four  gallons  of  good  oil. 

On  the  29th  Jan.  we  passed  the  meridian  of  the 
aouth  cape  of  New  Holland;  and  ^.f*^  the  14th  Feb. 


•w. 


(      15      ) 

were  thirty-two  leagues  to  the  southward  of  the  south 
cape  of  New  Zealand.     On  the  15th  we  were  nearly 
antipodes  to  our  friends  in  London.     On  the  17th  we 
met  with  an  awful  storm,  by  far  the  most  severe  of 
any  we  had  hitherto  experienced  :  our  vessel  was 
laid  to,  under  her  main  stay  sail,  and  mounted  over 
Ihe  waves  like  a  duck.     On  the  2l8t  in  the  afternoon, 
the  pitch-kettle  being  placed  on  the  fire  by  the  car- 
penter, v/hilst  caulking  the  decks,  the  man  who  was 
left  to  take  care  of  it,  suffered  it  to  boil  over:  imme- 
diately it  blazed  up  with  surprising  fury;  he  had, 
however,  the  presence  of  mind  to  lift  it  off  the  fire, 
and  so  prevented  the  dreaded  conflagration.    Though 
the  cabouse  was  remarkably  dry,  and  the  foresail 
hanging  down  over  it,  (which,  had  the  fire  caught  the 
sail,  must  have  instantly  communicated  the  flames  to 
the  rigging :)  providentially  no  harm  was  done  ;  and 
by  the  great  exertions  of  Mr.  Wm.  Wilson  and  others, 
the  fire  was  quickly  extinguished. 

Ninety-seven  days  had  now  elapsed  since  we  left 
Rio  Janeiro,  and  except  one  vessel  which  we  met 
about  a  week  after  our  departure,  we  did  not  in  all 
this  time  see  either  ship  or  shore ;  and  had  sailed  by 
the  log  near  fourteen  thousand  miles :  a  greater  dis- 
tance probably  than  was  ever  before  run  without 
touching  at  any  place  for  refreshment,  or  seeing  land. 

In  the  month  of  February  1797,  we  arrived  in  sight 
of  the  island  Toobouai,  but  did  not  make  any  stay 
there.  Shortly  after,  we  were  visited  by  one  of  the 
most  tremendous  thunder-storms  that  we  ever  had 
witnessed;  and  one  that  astonished  the  oldest  seamen 


(      16      ) 

OD  board.  The  clouds  dashed  furiously  against  each 
other,  and  the  whole  atmosphere  was  in  general  con- 
fusion :  the  night  dark,  together  ^vith  the  vivid  and 
incessant  lightning,  presented  a  scene  very  interesting, 
and  awfully  grand :  but  the  tempest  abated,  after  a 
continuance  of  about  two  or  three  hours,  without  any 
material  injury.  One  of  the  officers,  and  two  of  the 
aailors  were  slightly  touched  with  the  lightning. 

March  4tli,  we  arrived  in  sight  of  the  long-wished- 
for  island  Otaheite ;  discovered  the  land  at  the  dis- 
tance of  about  sixty  miles :  pleasant  weather,  but 
light  breezes  throughout  the  day.  At  night  approach- 
ed within  a  few  miles  of  the  shore  :  continued  to  lay 
off  and  on  till  the  morning.  As  soon  as  daylight  ap- 
peared, and  our  ship  could  be  seen  from  the  land,  we 
discovered  canoes  paddling  from  various  parts  to- 
wards us ;  on  their  nearing  the  ship,  we  observed 
they  were  mostly  laden  with  the  delicious  fruits  of 
their  prolific  island,  together  with  hogs,  poultry, 
cloth,  and  sundry  other  merchandize  ;  which,  after 
such  a  lengthy  voyage,  were  very  acceptable  and 
refreshing.  The  following  day  continued  beating 
against  the  trade  winds,  between  the  islands  Otaheite 
and  Eimeo.  This  day,  from  eighty  to  an  hundred 
canoes  of  various  sizes  were  counted  alongside,  con* 
taining  on  an  average  about  six  or  eight  natives. — 
They  were  uniformly  laden  with  hogs,  plantains, 
bread-fruit,  &lc.  The  next  day  came  to  an  anchor  in 
Matavai  Bay,  when  the  ship  was  immediately  sur- 
rounded with  vast  numbers  of  canoes  which  had  as- 
sembled here  from  every  part  of  the  island,  and  a 


(  "  ) 

considerable  number  of  the  natives  were  on  board, 
having  brought  presents  of  every  description  which 
their  island  affords,  for  the  refreshment  of  their  visi- 
tors. Each  of  the  Missionaries,  together  with  the 
captain  and  the  ship's  company,  was  selected  by 
one  or  other  of  the  principal  natives,  to  be  considered 
as  Tayo  (or  friend ;)  when,  in  consequence  of  this 
union,  an  intercourse  of  individual  friendship  more 
fiarticularly  subsisted.  Their  profession  of  friendship 
was  very  modestly  and  facetiously  observed ;  and  for 
a  considerable  time  they  persisted  in  their  refusal  of 
presents  in  return  for  the  abundance  with  which  they 
had  supplied  us.  In  short,  the  quantities  were  so  great 
that  we  were  under  the  necessity  of  requesting  a  sus- 
pension of  their  great  and  continued  liberality.  The 
decks  were  encumbered  with  hogs,  cloth,  poultry, 
and  fruit  of  every  description ;  which,  in  a  measure 
prevented  an  attention  to  the  necessary  business  of 
the  ship. 

On  our  arrival  we  were  agreeably  surprised  by 
fmding  three  natives  of  Sweden,  who  had  resided  on 
the  island  about  4  years,  and  whom  we  found  very  use- 
ful as  interpreters.  They  informed  us  that  they  were 
castaway  on  a  reef  of  rocks,  at  the  distance  of  about 
three  hundred  miles,  in  a  ship  called  the  Matilda; 
when  they  embarked  in  their  boat,  and  arrived  safe 
at  this  island ;  and  as  the  spontaneous  productions, 
together  with  the  habits  of  the  islanders,  suited  their 
dispositions,  they  concluded  to  make  this  their  abid- 
ing place.  The  natives  took  possession  of  the  boat, 
and  immediately  broke  it  up,  to  procure  the  iron- 

C  2 


(     «8     ) 

work,  in  order  to  m9ke  Jlsh-hooks.  It  may  be  entep- 
taining  here  to  notice  their  simplicity  in  a  transaction 
which  occurred  at  this  time.  The  Swedes  had  se- 
cured and  brought  with  them  a  considerable  number 
of  Spanish  dollars ;  which,  when  the  natives  found 
them,  they  endeavoured  also  to  convert  into  hooks ; 
but  the  metal  proving  not  to  be  good  enough  in  their 
estimation  for  that  purpose,  and  not  knowing  of  what 
other  use  to  appropriate  them,  they  entertained  them- 
selves with  the  diversion  of  skipping  them  on  the 
water,  till  the  whole  were  expended. 

Otaheite  was  the  original  destination  of  the  Mis- 
sionaries ;  but  in  the  event  of  their  being  disposed  to 
form  parties,  they  were  permitted  so  to  do.  Some, 
therefore,  were  of  opinion  that  a  division  would  be 
most  likely  to  accomplish  the  enlarged  views  of  the 
Missionary  Society :  in  consequence  of  which  the 
following  members  agreed  to  disembark  at  this  island, 
viz.  James  Cover,  John  Eyre,  John  Jefferson,  Tho- 
mas Lewis,  Henry  Bicknell,  John  Cock,  Samuel 
Clode,  I.  A.  Gillham,  Peter  Hodges,  William  Henry, 
Rowland  Hassall,  Edward  Main,  Henry  Nott,  Francis 
Oakes,  James  Puckey,  William  Puckey,  and  Wil- 
liam Smith,  together  with  the  women  and  children ; 
and  the  remainder  agreed  to  separate,  viz.  Daniel 
Bowel?,  Benjamin  Broomhall,  John  Buchanan,  James 
Cooper,  Samuel  Harper,  Seth  Kelso,  William  Shelly, 
George  Vason,  and  James  Wilkinson, — designed  to 
settle  on  the  island  Tongatabboo,  one  of  the  group  of 
the  Friendly  Islands ;  and  John  Harris  and  William 
Crook  concluded  to  settle  on  the  Marquesas.    Those 


(  1»  ) 

therefore  who  intended  to  establish  themselves  here, 
arranged  their  concerns  accordingly  for  disembarka- 
tion. The  following  day  they  were  landed,  together 
with  a  considerable  portion  of  their  effects.  They 
were  received  very  courteously  amidst  a  vast  con- 
course of  the  natives :  the  king  and  queen  seated  on 
men's  shoulders,  together  with  the  principal  chiefs  of 
the  island,  assisted  in  the  ceremony  of  receiving  and 
welcoming  their  new  visitors. 

An  old  man  named  Pyteah,  the  chief  of  the  district 
in  which  we  were  to  reside,  exerted  himself  greatly 
in  preparing  the  house  for  the  reception  of  the  Mis- 
sionaries ;  and  the  natives,  generally,  appeared  much 
pleased  with  the  idea,  that  men  had  come  pur- 
posely from  England  to  live  among  them  :  these  fa- 
vourable circumstances  were  highly  gratifying  to  the 
Missionaries  who  were  to  settle  here. 

Manne  Manne,  the  aged  and  high  priest,  had  suc- 
ceeded in  making  captain  Wilson  his  Tayo :  by  the 
Swedes  we  were  informed  that  he  wa j  ■.  near  relation 
of  the  royal  family,  and  of  considerable  consequence 
in  the  islands  ;  being  chief  priest,  not  only  over  Ota- 
heite,  but  also  of  Eimeo.  Manne  Manne  was  accord- 
ingly invited  into  the  cabin,  and  treated  with  that 
respect,  which  his  situation  required. 

Manne  Manne  came  early  the  next  morning  witl^ 
three  fine  hogs,  some  fowls,  bread-fruit,  cocoa-nuts, 
a  quantity  of  cloth,  &lc.,  which  were  intended  as  a 
present  for  his  tayo,  the  captain.  He  made  a  long 
oration,  in  which  he  described  the  ships  and  captains 
which  had  touched  at  Otalieite,  with  the  names  of  the 


(    -20     ) 


gods  of  Ulitea :  but  he  acknowledged  the  British  God 
to  be  the  best ;  and  that  he  would  request  Otoo  to 
worship  him,  and  to  order  the  people  to  do  the  same. 

Soon  after,  Peter  the  Swede  brought  various  re- 
freshments, among  which  was  a  remarkably  large 
hog,  the  two  sides  of  which,  exclusive  of  the  head 
and  entrails,  weighed  three  hundred  and  forty  pounds ; 
it  had  on  each  side  of  its  mouth  two  large  tusks :  for 
use,  it  was  much  too  fat  for  us ;  and,  as  many  small 
pigs  were  brought  in  the  course  of  the  day,  but  little 
©f  it  was  eaten. 

Manne  Manne  soon  after  took  five  of  his  wives  on 
board  the  ship  :  scarcely  any  of  them  exceeded  fif- 
teen years,  and  desired  that  he  might  sleep  in  the 
cabin.  According  to  the  custom  of  the  country,  he 
very  cordially  desired  captain  W.  his  tayo,  to  take 
his  choice,  and  could  hardly  persuade  himself  he  waB 
serious  in  declining  the  offer;  nor  failed  the  next 
morning  to  inquire  of  them  which  he  had  chosen. 
This  brought  on  a  conversation  on  the  nature  of  their 
customs ;  the  captain  explained  to  the  old  priest,  how 
little  such  a  state  of  polygamy  was  suited  to  happi- 
ness ;  that  no  woman  could  be  either  so  attached, faith- 
ful, affectionate,  or  careful  to  promote  domestic  feli- 
city, as  where  the  heart  was  fixed  on  one  object  with- 
out a  rival.  The  old  priest  did  not  at  all  relish  this 
doctrine,  and  said,  such  was  not  the  custom  at  Ota- 
heite ;  but  the  ladies  highly  approved,  and  said  the 
Pretane  (English)  custom  was  my-ty  my-ty,  very 
good. 

About  eleven  in  the  forenoon,  the  captam,  and 


^4i 


•^^«'^«6^ 


{     21    •) 

several  of  the  Missionaries  weiiC  on  shore,  accompa- 
nied by  the  old  priest  and  Peter  the  Swede.  The 
natives  had  assembled  on  the  beach  in  great  numbers, 
and  as  the  boat  approached,  some  ran  into  the  water, 
and  laying  hold  of  her,  hauled  her  aground  ;  they 
took  the  captain  and  Missionaries  on  their  backs,  and 
carried  them  dry  on  shore.  They  were  received  by 
the  young  king  Otoo,  and  his  wife  Tetua,  both  carried 
on  men's  shoulders ;  each  took  the  captain  by  the 
hand,  and  in  dumb  silence  surveyed  him  attentively, 
looking  in  his  face,  and  surveyed  evcrj"  part  of  his 
dress :  and  the  queen  opened  Mr.  Cover's  shirt  at  the 
breast  and  sleeves,  and  seemed  astonished  at  so  clear 
a  sight  of  the  blue  veins. 

The  captain  informed  the  king  that  the  inducement 
of  the  Missionaries  for  leaving  England,  to  settle  on 
his  island  was  to  do  them  good,  by  instructing  them 
in  the  best  and  most  useful  things  ;  and  required  on 
his  part  the  gift  of  a  piece  of  knd  sufficiently  stocked 
with  bread-fruit  and  cocoa-nut  trees,  and  so  large  as 
to  contain  a  garden,  and  admit  of  houses  being  built 
upon  it ;  that  this  land  should  be  their  own ;  that  they 
would  not,  on  any  account,  intermeddle  in  their  wars, 
nor  employ  their  arms  but  for  self-defence ;  and  at 
all  times  should  live  free  and  unmolested  among 
them:  to  which,  if  he  consented,  the  Missionaries 
would  stay  on  the  island ;  if  not,  they  would  go  else^ 
where.  Otoo  signified  the  large  house  was  our  own, 
and  that  we  might  take  what  land  we  pleased. 

After  this,  Mannc  Manne  stood  up  in  the  middle  of 
the  ring,  and  made  a  long  speech,  passing  many  enco- 


(     22     ) 

miums  on  England ;  in  which  he  mentioned  also  the 
rarious  districts  of  the  island,  the  chiefs,  the  gods,  &lc. 
After  which  he  formally  ceded  the  whole  district  of 
Matavai  to  the  Missionaries,  and  honoured  them  by 
making  them  chiefs  ;  by  which  they  were  possessed 
of  power  to  command  the  natives  of  that  district,  and 
to  order  provisions,  &,c.  to  be  brought  them.  When 
this  ceremony  was  over,  the  king  still  holding  the 
captain  by  the  hand,  led  him  to  the  house,  thence  to 
the  beach,  and  so  on  till  tired,  when  the  captain  re- 
quested to  go  on  board.  Having  arrived  at  tlie  boat, 
Otoo  desired  to  hear  the  musquets  fired,  and  to  gratify 
him,  the  four  they  had  were  discharged  twice ;  with 
which  compliment  he  appeared  highly  pleased. 

After  dinner,  Otoo  and  his  wife  came  off,  each  in  a 
small  canoe,  with  only  one  man  paddling:  whilst  they 
went  several  times  round  the  ship,  the  queen  was  fre- 
quently bailing  her  canoe  with  a  cocoa-nut  shell.  This 
may  help.tto  form  an  idea  of  what  a  queen  is  in  Ola- 
heite.  They  would  not  venture  on  board,  because 
wheresoever  they  come  is  deemed  sacred,  none  dar- 
ing to  enter  there,  except  their  proper  domestics. 
'  The  king  appears  thoughtful,  speaks  little,  but  sur- 
veys things  with  attention ;  but  I  think  it  mostly  arises 
from  a  sullen  and  stupid  disposition,  rather  tlian  ca- 
pacity. 

On  lliC  10th,  the  captain  landed,  to  present  ome 
Bhowy  dresses  to  the  king  and  his  wife  :  they  met  him 
on  the  beach  as  usual.  Peter  informed  him  of  the 
captain's  intention,  and,  shewing  the  box  which  con- 
tained the  treasure,  requested  Otoo  to  walk  toward? 


■'■Uff  W*Pa'W'' 


-'•'-'■-tJftiW^''- 


(     23     ) 

his  house,  a  temporary  slied  they  had  erected  for  the 
purpose  of  being  near  ouf  people.  He  complied,  and 
when  they  came  near,  the  captain,  stopping  under  a 
tree,  ordered  the  people  to  form  a  ring,  and  placing 
the  box  in  the  midst,  Otoo  was  requested  to  alight, 
that  he  might  be  dressed;  he  replied,  by  and  by,  and 
gazed  sullenly  for  a  considerable  time,  till  the  cap- 
tain's patience  was  nearly  exhausted :  frequently  re- 
peating the  request,  but  receiving  no  answer,  they 
opened  the  box,  and  on  taking  out  the  dress  for  the 
queen,  she  instantly  alighted  from  the  man's  shoulder, 
and  Otoo  followed  her  example.  The  fancy  cap  fit- 
ted her  exceedingly  well,  and  she  seemed  very  proud 
of  it ;  but  it  was  only  by  unripping  that  the  other  ar- 
ticles could  be  put  on  her  or  Otoo.  The  captain 
told  him  that  (he  earees  (chiefs)  of  Pretane  thought 
he  was  not  yet  so  stout  a  man.  Dressed  complete 
in  this  gaudy  attire,  the  surrounding  crowd  gazed 
upon  them  with  admiration.  She,  true  to  the  foibles 
of  her  sex,  appeared  delighted ;  but  Otoo  thought 
little  of  them,  saying,  an  axe,  a  musquet,  a  knife,  or 
a  pair  of  scissors  were  more  valuable ;  which  was 
saying  more  for  himself  than  we  expected,  or  that  he 
had  even  sense  to  do. 

In  the  dusk  of  the  evening  they  all  retired ;  and 
having  been  informed  that  the  next  day  (Sunday) 
would  be  set  apart  for  religious  purposes,  and  that  on 
that  account  no  work  would  be  done,  nor  any  thing 
received  from  them :  they  had  brought  a  vast  quanti- 
ty of  provisions  both  to  the  ship  and  the  house,  and 
when  they  went  away,  asked  if  the  following  day 


(     24     ) 

would  be  more  devoted  to  prayer  than  other  days, 
which  question  was  answered  in  the  aflirmative ;  and 
on  Sunday  all  was  quiet :  not  a  canoe  was  ^een  near 
the  ship. 

After  consulting  upon  the  propriety  of  commencing 
their  religious  instructions,  it  was  agreed  that  brother 
Cover  should  address  them  through  the  medium  of 
Andrew  the  Swede  as  interpreter.  At  3  o'clock  in 
the  afternoon  the  Missionaries  met  for  this  purpose  ; 
many  of  the  natives  being  present,  both  within  and 
without  the  house  ;  and  as  soon  as  Andrew  interpret- 
ed the  first  sentence,  finding  the  discourse  directed 
to  them,  they  placed  themselves  in  attentive  postures. 
When  they  understood  a  little  of  Avhat  was  said,  they 
put  very  pertinent  questions.  They  asked  whether 
the  mess?  ge  of  the  British  God  was  to  the  toutous 
(servants)  as  well  as  to  the  king  and  chiefs  ?  they 
were  answered  in  the  affirmative  ;  and  further,  Mr. 
Cover  pointing  to  his  brethren,  told  them  that  they 
were  the  messengers  of  the  only  true  God ;  and  though 
all  men  had  offended  him,  he  was,  notwithstanding, 
a  merciful  God ;  conferring  great  blessings  on  those 
who  believed  his  word,  and  that  after  death  he  took 
them  to  a  state  of  eternal  happiness.  Otoo  was  pre- 
sent, but  appeared  of  a  very  unteachable  disposition. 

On  the  following  day  Otoo  and  his  queen  sent  to 
beg  leave  of  the  captain  to  send  him  their  ijresents ; 
to  which  ceremonial  an  answer  was  sent  in  the  affir- 
mative ;  and  they  were  presently  alongside :  the 
king's  consisted  of  thirteen  live  hogs,  and  three  ready 
dressttd ;  the  queen's  was  one  dressed,  six  alive,  and 


1    as    ) 

a  bale  of  cloth ;  they  followed  in  a  large  double  ca 
noe,  accompanied  by  Otoo's  younger  brother,  now 
prince  of  Tiaraboo.  They  expressed  a  wish  for  one 
of  the  great  guns  to  be  fired ;  and,  to  gratify  thenii 
two  were  cast  loose.  Manne  Manne  took  the  match, 
and,  though  almost  blind  with  age,  he  boldly  fired 
them  off;  with  which  act  of  his  own  courage  he  was 
highly  transported. 

In  the  afternoon,  Pomarre  and  Iddeah,  (Otoo's 
father  and  mother]  paid  their  first  visit  to  the  ship : 
besides  his  usual  attendants,  a  number  of  others  had 
put  themselyes  in  his  train.  When  alongside,  he  re- 
fused to  come  further  till  he  saw  the  captain,  upon 
whose  appearance  he  ascended  the  side,  and  coming 
on  the  quarter-deck,  wrapped  four  pieces  of  cloth 
round  the  captain,  as  his  own  present ;  then  taking 
that  ofi*,  repeated  the  like  operation  in  the  name  of 
Iddeah. 

When  this  ceremony  was  over,  he  promised  to 
send  provisions,  and  whatever  they  had  occasion  for 
while  they  staid  at  Otaheite.  He  is  very  affable,  and 
the  picture  of  good  nature,  and  supposed  to  be  the 
largest  man  in  the  island.  Soon  after,  they  visited 
the  Missionary  settlement,  and  were  no  less  gratified 
than  surprised  to  view  the  improvements.  They 
took  tea  with  the  Missionaries :  one  of  his  attendants 
poured  the  tea  from  the  cup  to  the  saucer,  and  then 
held  it  to  his  mouth :  this  is  the  custom  at  every 
meal,  as  his  dignity  \vill  not  let  him  feed  himself. 
When  he  had  finished,  he  requested  the  saucer  might 

D 


(     26     ) 

be  kept  for  his  future  use,  and  that  no  woman  miglit 
be  permitted  to  touch  it. 

On  the  17th  the  young  king  and  Pomarre  paid  a 
risit  at  the  house,  which  afforded  an  occasion  to 
speak  to  him  concerning  the  education  of  his  chil- 
dren ;  and  represented  it  as  a  matter  of  the  greatest 
importance,  both  to  them  and  the  people  of  Otaheite ; 
and  that  he  would  be  highly  blamable  to  neglect  so 
favourable  an  opportunity.  The  chief's  mind  seemed 
impressed  with  the  truth  of  what  was  said,  and  he 
immediately  spoke  to  Otoo,  who  returned  a  very 
unfavourable  answer : — ^he  did  not  want  to  learn  En- 
glish. Appearances  are  certainly  against  him ;  how- 
ever, it  may  reasonably  be  hoped,  that  example,  and 
the  exhibition  of  arts  which  must  appear  wonderful 
in  their  eyes,  may  in  time  excite  in  his  mind  a  thirst 
after  knowledge. 

19th.  It  being  signified  to  the  natives  that  an  ad- 
dress would  be  delivered  to  them,  great  numbers  ac- 
cordingly assembled  under  cover  of  some  shady  trees 
near  the  house ;  and  a  long  form  being  placed,  Po- 
marre was  requested  to  seat  himself  on  it  with  the 
Missionaries ;  the  rest  of  the  natives  standing  or  sit- 
ting in  a  circle  around  us.  Mr.  Cover  then  addressed 
them  from  the  words  of  St.  John,  "  God  so  loved  the 
world,  that  he  gave  his  only-begotten  Son,  that  who- 
soever believeth  in  him  should  not  perish,  but  have 
everlasting  life."  The  Swede  interpreting  by  sen- 
tences as  he  spoke.  The  Otaheiteans  were  silent 
and  very  attentive.  After  the  discourse,  Pomarre 
*  ok  Mr.  C.  by  the  hand,  and  expressed  his  approba- 


t 


(     27     ) 

lion.  Being  asked  if  he  had  understood  what  was 
said,  he  replied,  there  were  no  such  things  before  in 
Otaheite  ;  and  they  were  not  to  be  learned  at  once, 
but  that  he  woukl  wait  the  coming  of  the  Eatooa 
(God.)  Desiring  to  know  if  he  might  be  permitted 
to  attend  again,  he  was  told,  yes.  He  and  hie  wife 
dined  with  us,  and  departed. 


(     28     ) 


CHAPTER  H. 


Departure  of  the  Duff  to  tlie  island  Eimeo.— Desci  iption  of  Taloo 
Harbour.— Behaviour  of  the  natives. — Return  to  Otaheite. 


Oi 


'N  the  20th,  the  Duff  was  ready  for  sea,  and  as 
Peter  the  Swede  had  offered  to  accompany  her  in  the 
voyage  to  the  Friendly  Islands  and  the  Marquesas, 
the  captain  consented,  thinking  that  he  might  be  use- 
ful as  an  interpreter ;  and  permitted  a  young  woman 
named  Tanno  Manno,  with  whom  Peter  had  cohabit- 
ed ;  also  a  man,  and  a  boy.  As  the  captain  intended 
to  lay  a  few  days  at  Eimeo,  to  give  an  opportunity  to 
the  Missionaries  to  observe  the  disposition  of  the 
Otaheiteass  towardd  tltem  daring  the  absence  of  the 
ship ;  and  also  to  examine  a  vessel  which  was  build- 
ing there  by  the  orders  of  Manne  Manne,  after  the 
European  construction. 

On  the  21st  they  weighed,  and  by  ten  o'clock  they 
were  off  the  north-east  part  of  Eimeo,  and  kept  run- 
ning along  the  edge  of  the  coral  reefs  towards  Taloo 
harbour,  and,  at  the  distance  of  half  a  cable's  length. 
The  reef  appeared  to  block  up  the  harbour  until  they 
were    nearly  abreast  of  it,  when  a  good  entr^qce 


*> 


% 


(     29     ) 


«.' 


sbows  itself.  They  run  close  up  to  the  south-east 
corner  of  the  harbour,  and  let  go  their  anchor  in  ten 
fathoms  water,  and  moored  with  the  stream-cable  to 
a  remarkably  large  tree,  which  stands  close  to  the 
water's  edge  ;  the  steeple  cliff  at  the  head  of  the  har- 
bour, bearing  S.  by  E. 

Taloo  harbour  is  on  the  north  side  of  the  island : 
the  bottom  so  clear,  that  you  distinctly  see  the  coral, 
with  its  beautiful  branches  of  various  colours.  The 
mouth  of  the  harbour  is  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
broad ;  tiie  water  of  an  amazing  depth :  this  leads 
into  a  most  delightful  bay,  about  two  miles  wide,  and 
three  long.  This  bay  is  beautifully  surrounded  with 
trees :  not  the  least  agitation  of  the  water  is  perceived 
on  the  beach,  let  the  wind  blow  from  what  quarter  it 
may,  it  is  so  perfectly  land-locked.  They  lay  under 
a  mountain  ten  times  as  high  as  their  top-gallant- 
mast,  and  perpendicular.  There  is  a  fine  fresh-water 
river  running  up  some  miles,  which  a  boat  can  ascend 
a  mile  or  two,  and  where  the  ships  water  with  the 
greatest  ease.  The  captain  considered  it  the  securest 
harbour  he  ever  saw.  This  island  is  supposed  to  be 
about  ten  miles  in  length,  and  five  in  breadth.  It  ap- 
pears to  have  suffered  great  convulsions  either  from 
earthquakes  or  other  violent  causes.  Most  of  the  hills 
are  high,  pointed  at  their  tops,  with  broken  rugged 
sides,  particularly  about  Taloo  harbour;  from  the  en- 
trance of  which,  they  present  a  very  striking  and 
magnificent  appearance.  It  has  a  narrow  border  of 
low  land  next  the  sea,  from  whence  the  hills  rise  in 
sudden  acclivities ;  but  from  the  northern  side  they 

D  2 


(     30     ) 

rise  gradually.  The  lower  hills  and  the  valleys  are 
the  most  fertile  parts;  which,  without  care  or  culture, 
are  covered  with  luxuriant  bread-fruit,  cocoa-nut,  and 
other  trees :  and  there  are  many  of  a  different  kind 
in  the  mountains ;  some  very  much  like  lignumvitae : 
one  small  island  is  wholly  covered  with  this  wood. 
Being  in  quest  of  a  tree  of  hard  wood,  they  found 
one,  but  the  axe  would  not  stand  against  it,  so  they 
were  obliged  to  use  the  hand-6aw :  it  is  called  the  toa 
or  iron-tree. 

After  dinner  they  examined  Manne  Manne's  vessel, 
and  on  their  return  gave  but  an  unfavourable  account 
of  her.  She  was  forty-two  feet  long,  but  dispropor- 
Uoned  in  her  breadth,  by  being  fuller  aft  than  forward, 
and  the  timbers  were  too  small  for  her  size. 

Though  they  staid  here  but  a  few  days,  there  oc- 
curred frequent  instances  of  the  thievish  disposi- 
tion of  the  people.  One  very  dark  night,  about  1 1 
o'clock,  the  watch  saw  a  naked  native  standing  in  the 
main  chains ;  and  on  attempting  to  seize  him,  he 
leaped  into  the  water,  and  made  his  escape,  taking 
with  him  four  yards  of  their  electric  chain :  and  even 
in  the  day-time,  though  not  one  of  them  was  sufifered 
to  come  on  deck,  they  found  means  to  steal  the  rud- 
der out  of  the  jolly-boat  lying  alongside.  At  another 
time  while  they  were  at  dinner  in  the  cabin,  a  canoe 
came  close  under  the  stern,  and  a  tall  fellow  getting 
upon  the  back  of  the  rudder,  reached  his  hand  up, 
and  snatched  away  a  book  which  lay  just  within  the 
,  cabin  windows ;  he  then  immediately  fell  back,  and 
plunged  into  the  water.    This  they  heard,  and  start- 


(    31     ) 

ing  up,  inBisted  upon  having  the  canoe  brought  along- 
side ;  but  this  was  refused,  and  all  the  natives  began 
to  set  off  towards  the  shore.  Thinking  this  action 
too  daring  to  be  overlooked,  and  clemency  so  often 
extended,  only  excited  greater  depredations,  a  few 
small  shot  were  fired,  which  made  them  take  to  the 
water,  and  skulk  behind  the  canoe.  Two  of  the  sea- 
men in  the  jolly-boat  tried  in  vain  to  catch  the  of- 
fender ;  for  he,  with  the  dexterity  of  a  wild  duck  in 
the  water,  eluded  all  their  attempts  to  lay  hold  of 
him  :  and  it  was  only  with  the  help  of  the  pinnace, 
and  frightening  him  with  a  musket,  that  he  was 
caught  at  last.  When  alongside,  he  trembled  through 
fear  of  being  put  to  death,  and  struggled  hard  to  get 
into  the  water  again  ;  but  making  a  rope  fast  round 
his  body,  he  was  hoisted  on  board,  and  lashed  up  to 
the  rigging  in  sight  of  his  countrymen,  who  stood 
ranged  along  the  beach  in  expectation  of  seeing  him 
punished.  As  Peter  was  on  shore  at  this  time,  the 
delinquent  was  kept  bound  till  he  returned  on  board; 
in  the  mean  while,  the  natives  observing  that  nothing 
was  done  to  him,  came  around  them  as  before. 
When  Peter  arrived,  he  was  desired  to  tell  the  man 
in  what  light  his  offence  was  considered,  and  that  if 
he  or  any  other  person  was  found  to  do  the  like 
again,  he  would  certainly  be  severely  punished ;  and 
that  the  reason  why  he  was  suffered  to  escape,  was 
merely  because  he  had  not  been  warned  of  the  con- 
sequences before.  To  this  he  said,  he  would  not  do 
so  again,  and  took  his  leave  with  joy  in  his  coun- 
tenance. 


(     32    ) 

After  having  painted  the  ship,  &lc.,  on  the  morn- 
ing of  the  25th  they  left  Taloo  harbour,  and  to- 
wards evening  saw  Tethuroa,  low  land,  about  twenty- 
four  miles  from  Otaheite.  It  consists  of  six  or  seven 
islets  very  near  each  other,  not  many  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  sea,  covered  with  cocoa-nuts,  but  no 
bread-fruit,  which  they  are  not  allowed  to  cultivate. 
It  belongs  iq  the  king,  but  Manne  Manne  claims  it. 
The  natives,  about  three  thousand,  are  principally 
employed  in  fishing  for  the  chiefs  at  Otaheite,  and 
bring  back  bread-fruit  and  other  things  in  exchange. 

About  four  in  the  afternoon  of  the  next  day,  they 
arrived  at  Otaheite,  where  a  variety  of  refreshments 
were  provided. 

A  large  house  which  was  originally  built  for  the  ac- 
commodation of  captain  Cook,  was  now  appropriated 
for  our  use.  The  building  was  sufficiently  large  for 
the  present,  but  objectionable  on  account  of  its  being 
open  and  much  exposed  to  the  weather,  and  to  pil- 
ferers ;  some  of  whom  are  very  expert.  These  ob- 
jections were,  however,  soon  removed  upon  applica- 
tion to  the  king  and  chiefs,  who  immediately  ordered 
a  number  of  the  natives  to  procure  rafters,  which  in 
two  or  three  days  were  brought  and  expeditiously 
appropriated  to  palisa  So  our  dwelling.  Its  accom- 
modation was  now  found  very  comfortable,  and  the 
situation  pleasant.  In  front,  is  the  beautiful  Matavai 
Bay,  commanding  a  view  of  the  district  Oparree,  and 
the  island  Eimeo.  In  the  rear  is  a  delightful  river, 
the  water  of  which  is  valuable  for  any  purpose.  Its 
source  is  among  the  stupendous  mountains ;  and  the 


(     33     ) 

whole  country,  from  the  highest  summits  of  the 
mountains  to  the  margin  of  the  island,  is  clothed  with 
evergreen  fruit-trees  of  the  greatest  yariety,  and  at 
all  seasons  productive  of  more  than  sufficient  for  the 
consumption  of  the  numerous  inhabitants. 


(     34    ) 


CHAPTER  III. 


DeiCription  of  Otaheite. — Productions. — Manners  and  Customs.- 
Sacrifices— Amusements.— Dresses.— Canoes. — Diseases,  &c. 


o 


i 


K 


'TAHEITE  lies  in  about  T  8**  of  S.  latitude  and  1 50* 
W.  longitude,  and  consists  of  two  peninsulas,  joined 
by  a  neck  of  land  about  three  miles  broad,  covered 
with  trees  and  shrubs,  but  wholly  uncultivated; 
though  no  part  of  the  island  seems  more  capable  of 
improvement,  and  of  admitting  the  plough,  if  cleared 
from  wood.  The  larger,  to  the  N.  W.,  and  which  is 
called  CKaheite  Nooe,  is  about  ninety  miles  in  cir- 
cumference, and  nearly  circular  ;  the  lesser,  or  Tia- 
raboo  to  the  S.  E.,  is  about  Afteen  miles  long,  and  ten 
broad.  The  whole  length  of  the  island  is  about  forty 
geographical  miles.  It  appears  to  consist  of  two 
mountains,  (joined  by  the  isthmus  already  noticed,) 
which  are  divided  into  a  variety  of  districts,  and  are 
probably  subject  to  changes  made  by  the  divisions 
smd  subdivisions  of  the  chiefs  among  their  towhas 
and  relations  This  island  has  a  border  of  low  land 
reaching  from  the  beach  to  the  rising  of  the  hih^,  in 


mm 


(    35     ) 

some  places  nearly  a  mile,  in  others  hardly  a  furlong ; 
and  in  several  points  the  mountains  abruptly  termi- 
nate in  cliffs,  against  which  the  sea  beats,  forming 
difficult  passages  from  one  district  to  another.  The 
soil  of  the  low  lands,  and  of  the  valleys  which  run  up 
from  the  sea  between  the  mountains,  is  remarkably 
fertile ;  it  consists  of  a  rich  blackish  mould,  covered 
with  bread-fruit,  cocoa-nut,  plantain,  evee  apple,  the 
yout,  or  cloth-plant,  and  many  others.  There  growb 
a  great  variety  of  trees  upon  the  mountains,  which 
are,  in  most  places,  covered  to  the  very  tops  with 
wood,  in  others  with  bamboos  of  great  length,  and  in 
some  by  fern  and  reed,  appearing  at  a  distance  like 
a  fine  green  lawn.  The  hills  rise  very  steep,  and 
swell  into  mountains  almost  inaccessible  ;  but  every 
where  productive  of  plantains,  yams,  and  a  great  va- 
riety of  roots  growing  spontaneously,  and  sometimes 
used  for  food.  In  these  higher  regions  only,  is  to  be 
found  the  precious  sandal-wood ;  it  is  of  two  kinds, 
yellow  and  dark-coloured ;  from  whence  the  natives 
chiefly  draw  the  perfume  for  the  cocoa-nut  oil,  with 
which  they  anoint  themselves.  But  the  difficulty  of 
procuring  the  wood  is  so  great,  owing  to  its  situation 
on  craggy  and  frightful  precipices,  that  only  small 
quantities  are  obtained,  and  these  are  considered  the 
exclusive  property  of  the  chiefs,  and  held  as  an  ar- 
ticle of  great  value. 

The  country  exhibits  a  mountainous  aspect,  and 
risegj  very  high  in  the  centre ;  it  is  intersected  by 
narrow  valleys,  into  which  numerous  streams  flow 
from  the  hills,  forming,  in  some  places,  beautiful  cas- 


•' 


! 


(     36     )    • 

cades.  In  the  rainy  i^easons  these  streams  swell  into 
tci  rents,  and  sometimes  loosen  rocks  and  trees  from 
the  precipices,  washing  them  down  into  the  valleys, 
which  they  overflow,  and  occasion  much  damage. 
During  the  greater  part  of  the  year,  these  valleys  af- 
ford a  passage  from  one  side  of  the  island  to  the 
other,  it  being  always  difficult  to  ascend  the  moun- 
tains ;  but  in  the  rainy  season,  this  becomes  imprac- 
ticable, and  the  communication  between  one  district 
and  another  is  kept  up  by  canoes.  These  pass  within 
the  reefs  in  smooth  water  with  great  ease  ;  Hsing  this 
precaution  only,  that  as  the  northernmost  part  of 
the  island  has  a  steep,  rocky  shore,  and  in  blowing 
weather  the  landing  is  dangerous,  those  who  wish  to 
go  to  windward,  proceed  in  their  canoes  westw?  n, 
where  they  seldom  find  the  trade-wind,  and  the  sea 
breeze  sets  in  from  the  westward.  The  high  land 
obstructs  the  easterly  wind,  and  the  island  Eimeo 
lying  in  a  direction  N.  and  S.,  forces  a  fresh  westerly 
current  up  the  south  side  of  Otaheite,  which  wafts 
the  canoes  to  the  isthmus  ;  where,  hauling  them 
across,  they  are  sure  of  a  fair  wind  home.  This  is 
at  present  done  on  rollers,  and  by  ropes ;  but  a  car- 
riage with  wheels  would  wonderfully  facilitate  the 
operation ;  and  probably,  ere  long,  a  practicable  road 
will  be  formed  for  this  purpose ;  as  has  bo-en  suggest- 
ed by  one  of  the  Missionaries. 

When  the  trade-wind  gets  far  to  the  south,  and  blows 
fresh,  it  generally  rains  on  the  south  side  of  the  island, 
bringing  the  clouds  from  the  mountains  of  Tiaraboo, 
and  emptying  their  contents  at  Pappara  and  the  atT- 


/ 


'   ' 


h 


(     3T     ) 


'V.i' 


'M 


joining  districts.  This  occasions  a  great  difference  in 
the  bread-fruit  season,  between  the  north  and  south 
sides  of  the  island ;  as  on  the  north,  the  rain  is  less 
frequent  and  less  violent,  and  the  trade-wind  constant- 
ly  blows,  except  when  the  sun  is  vertical.  Hence 
the  bread-fruit  harvei^t  commences  on  the  north  side 
about  November,  and  continues  till  the  end  of  Janu- 
ary ;  whilst  on  the  south  side,  in  some  parts  it  begins 
in  January,  and  continues  in  different  districts  till  No- 
vember. But  though  this  is  the  case  with  the  general 
harvest,  there  are  some  kinds  of  bread-fruit,  though 
scarce,  in  all  seasons  of  the  year,  especially  in  the 
district  of  Attahooroo.  The  different  species  of  the 
same  tree  amount  to  thirty.  At  our  arrival  in  March,, 
we  found  plenty ;  and,  indeed,  real  want  of  this  fruit 
is  seldom  known. 

On  ascending  the  hills,  the  soil  changes  from  a  rich 
loam  into  various  veins  of  red,  white,  dark,  yellow, 
or  bluish  earth,  clay,  or  marl.  In  the  red,  are  found 
stones  resembling  cornelian  or  flint,  but  being  full  of 
veins :  though  they  will  strike  fire  with  steel,  they 
break  on  a  second  stroke.  The  white  appears  like 
pipe-clay,  or  fuller's  earth  :  the  dark,  a  fine  rich 
mould,  probably  the  decayed  part  of  vegetable  sub- 
stances ;  the  yellow  is  mixed  with  gravel ;  the  blue, 
a  marly  substance.  These  are  ail  icund  in  digging 
ten  or  twelve  feet ;  and  the  under  stratum  appears  a 
soft  sand-stone  of  a  brownish  colour,  intermixed  with 
hard  rock. 

The  hills  also  afford  a  blackish  stone,  which  seems 
a  lava,  in  pieces  eight  or  ten  feet  long,  and  from  four 

E 


(     38     ) 


to  ten  inches  thick ;  of  which  they  formerly  made 
their  stone  tools.  It  is  of  a  fine  grain,  though  not 
very  hard,  nor  apt  to  splinter ;  which  answered  best 
the  purposes  of  the  natives,  as  they  could  thus  more 
easily  bring  them  to  an  edge :  but  almost  at  every 
stroke,  their  adzes  required.whetting,  and  nearly  two- 
thirds  of  their  time  was  employed  in  this  labour. 

The  beds  of  the  rivers  are  formed  of  stones  and 
gravel ;  and  many  of  them  contain  a  glassy  substance, 
that  will  melt  in  a  strong  fire ;  others  are  more  infu- 
sible, r>nd  many  are  found  like  pumice-stone.  In 
powder,  magnet  attracts  particles.     The  island 

appears  to  .>j  of  a  volcanic  origin. 

In  the  district  of  Matavai  there  is  a  singular  cliff, 
called  Peeha,  which  is  formed  of  an  immense  num- 
ber of  oblong  pieces  of  stone,  strongly  cemented  to- 
gether, and  hanging  in  a  very  romantic  manner.  The 
cliff  is  about  eighty  or  ninety  feet  high,  and  twice  as 
broad :  at  the  bottom  runs  a  river,  the  largest  in  the 
island. 

In  som*^  parts,  the  mountains  are  barren  and  full  of 
precipices,  broken  as  by  earthquakes.  In  the  bosom 
of  those  which  bound  the  district  of  Vyeorede,  there 
is  a  remarkably  large  fresh-water  lake,  called  Vye- 
heerea,  which  the  natives  say  cannot  be  sounded  by 
any  line,  and  contains  eels  of  a  monstrous  size.  On 
the  banks  of  this  lake  many  inhabitants  are  seated, 
who  have  plenty  of  all  sorts  of  provisions,  except  the 
bread-fruit,  for  which  they  substitute  the  mountain 
plantain.  This  lake  empties  itself  in  the  valley  of 
Vyeorede.     Here  also  they  make  vast  quantities  of 


i 


/ 


(     39     ) 

a  greyish  cloth  highly  prized,  beaten  from  the  bark 
of  the  mountain  sloe^tree ;  and  a  number  of  areoies 
frequent  the  place  for  this  purpose,  as  they  prefer  the 
cloth  to  any  other,  and  call  it  oraa. 

The  bay  of  Matavai  affords  safe  anchorage  during 
eight  months  in  the  year,  but  is  dangerous  from  De- 
cember to  March :  the  bottom  is  a  blackish  sand, 
from  six  to  eighteen  fathoms.  The  channel  between 
the  reef  and  the  Dolphin  Rock,  on  which  the  water 
is  only  thirteen  feet  in  the  shallowest  part,  extends 
not  more  than  half  a  cable's  length,  but  has  twenty- 
two  fathoms  of  water ;  yet,  in  a  weak-manned  ship, 
this  passage  seems  preferable  to  passing  to  the  West- 
ward of  the  rock,  as  it  frequently  happens  that  the 
wind  comes  off  in  squalls  from  one  tree  hill  in  a 
southern  direction,  and  often  falls  into  a  dead  calm. 
Both  of  these  disadvantages  may  be  avoided  by 
keeping  the  reef  close  aboard,  with  ten  fathoms  wa- 
ter, and  bringing  to  where  you  please ;  as  there  is  no 
foul  ground  to  windward  of  the  Dolphin  Bank,  nor 
any  rocks  but  what  are  visible.  The  sunken  rocks, 
called  Toa,  the  natives  know,  and  are  ready  to  point 
out.  The  only  harbour  to  the  westward,  is  that  of 
Oparre,  called  Toa-roa,  or  Long  Rock. 

Water  is  convenient  and  abundant  in  all  parts  of 
the  island ;  and  in  many  places  where  the  sea  has 
ebbed,  the  native  fountains  issue  their  treasures  of 
the  most  delightful  water,  notwithstanding,  they  are 
generally  covered  with  the  ocean. 

From  the  latitude  of  the  island,  it  might  be  infer- 
red that  the  scorching  rays  of  a  vertical  sun  would 


(  *•  ) 

Haake  it  an  unhealthy,  and  by  no  means  a  desirable 
place  for  establishing  a  mission  :  but  this  is  not  the 
case.  The  island  being  clothed  with  shady  trees, 
and  the  steady  trade-breeises  commencing  with  the 
rising  sun,  make  it  a  very  agreeable  residence.  The 
weather,  from  March  till  August,  was  serene  and 
pleasant ;  and,  the  thermometer,  in  general,  not  lower 
than  65°,  seldom  rising  higher  thp;i  75®  to  80** ;  and 
80  cool  at  night  as  to  make  a  blanket  welcome. 
From  the  month  of  December  to  March,  the  wind 
frequently  blows  hard  from  the  west,  with  rain,  and 
throws  a  heavy  surf  on  the  shore  into  Matavai  bay : 
the  rest  of  the  year  the  wind  blows  from  the  east,  but 
with  alternate  land  and  sea  breezes  around  the  island, 
which  extends  its  influence  about  a  league  from  the 
shore. 

The  government  of  Otaheite  is  monarchical,  and 
hereditary  in  one  family.  Upon  the  birth  of  his  first 
son,  the  king  retires  from  his  dignity,  and  the  child 
is  honoured  as  the  sovereign  ;  this  is  exempljfi«*d  in 
Pomarree,  who,  from  king,  became  the  first  subject  of 
his  son  Otoo,  and  regent  of  state :  he  supports  his 
son's  dignity  with  all  his  weight  and  influence. 

The  ceremony  of  investing  the  young  king  with 
the  royal  maro,  like  a  coronation,  is  a  solemnity 
which  few  can  witness  :  the  following  account  from 
a  spectator  will  be  interesting. — ^Assembling  at  the 
great  morai  in  Oparree,  the  maro  oora,  or  red  sash 
of  royalty,  was  laid  on  the  morai :  it  is  made  of  net- 
work, and  thrummed  with  red  and  yellow  leathers. 
The  taata  orero,  the  public  orator,  (probably  Manne 


0r 

F 

V 

r 

■s 

\ 


'• 


(    41     ) 

Ma„„e)  opened  the  e--;;;^,:;^ jTe  iTo; 

,hich  set  forth  the  ns';t^'^-*;tld  invested  Wn. 

Pomarree  to  the  regal  W'        ^^  ^^lef  of  Ei- 

.ith  the  royal  --'^-- ^^^^young  Wng.^ho 
„.eo,  first  paid  his  Ij^-^ier    and  snUnded  by 
was  borne  on  a  man's  *<>»>^";J     ^„^,„  Victim. 
,„  his  chieftains.    He  brough   <hree  ^^  ^^  ^^^^  «., 
from  Eimeo  in  his  canoes ;  from  ^^  ^^^^ 

priest,  Bcooping  -t  ayye,  presen^     ^  ^^^^^ 

reign  on  a  P'»"*-«-'« ^ d  S  a  «ong  ceremonial  dis- 
i„  his  hand,  accompanied  mth^^g^^j^^^^^ 

eonrse:  ^^e '.o^-^;^-^'^^^^^  Jrepeatedby 
in  the  moral.    Thesam  ^^  ^^^^^^^  „f 

every  chief  in  rotation,  of  the  ^^  ^^^ 

Otaheite;  -me  bringing  one^  a„^^  ^^^^  ^^ 

sacrifices, fixed  on  a  long  pole,  and 

presentation  of  the  eye.  ^^^^^^.^^  ^„^ 

The  reason  assigned  to  th«  ho  ^^^  ^^^^ 

that  the  head  being  sacred   and^^^^^  ^  ^^^  ^^^  ^ 

precious  part,  it  ^»»  *"     J,^.     During  the  present- 

the  head  and  eye  of  the  peop  devouring 

ation,  the  kingholds  ^^  -°"* ^  .aditional  wi.- 

H,  whereby  they  •™';^- J^  J^  ,  t„telar  deity  pre- 

dom  and  discermnent ,  and  tn  ^„^„„„iea. 

sides,  to  accept  the  -«"««;•  ^^^^n  the  soul  of 

,,„  of  the  vi^  P-;P  -;;re  sUe<»,  -d  in. 
^eroyalpup^  Many      6  .    ^,,,„y«,„a. 

wense  quantities  ot  ciom  v  •■^j  :„  Ue  place 

ro,  worn  only  ^^ XZ^J^^^^'^^  ''-«^* 
'*t~:lesCe1.auled  up  thither.  Th. 
the  human  sacnhcea,  wcic^ 


{  «  ) 

king  and  chiefs  then  departed,  to  devour  the  hogs, 
turtle,  fowls,  fish,  and  vegetables  prepared  for  them  in 
the  greatest  profusion,  and  to  drink  their  intoxicating 
yava.    The  feasting  and  heivas,  or  dances,  lasted  two 
months :  the  hogs  killed  on  the  occasion  were  innu- 
merable, the  yava  abundant ;  and  more  than  one  of 
the  chiefs  paid  for  their  excesses,  by  the  loss  of  their 
lives.     Otoo,  the  present  king,  is  about  seventeen, 
and  very  large-limbed,  promising  to  be  of  a  size  like 
his  father.     Though  he  is  absolute,  he  lives  in  the 
greatest  familiarity  with  the  lowest  of  his  subjects. 
He  is  differently  represented  :  some  say  he  looks 
solid,  and  of  a  thoughtful  aspect ;  whilst  others  call 
him  stupid,  and  think  his  countenance  looks  vacant. 
His  queen,  Tetua,  daughter  of  Wyreede,  relict  of 
Motuaro,  is  about  his  own  age,  and  rather  the  larger 
of  the  two.     Her  countenance  is  pleasing  and  open, 
but  masculine,  and  widened  by  the  usual  method  of 
pressure,  called  touroome.     It  is  considered  as  the 
distinctive  mark  of  their  regal  dignity,  to  be  every 
where  carried  about  on  men's  shoulders.     Their  per- 
sons being  esteemed  sacred,  all  must  uncover  below 
the  breast  when  in  their  presence  :  and  from  thi» 
mark  of  homage,  their  own  father  and  mother  are 
not  exempted.     They  may  not  enter  into  any  house 
but  their  own,  because,  from  that  moment  it  would 
become  raa,  or  sacred,  and  none  but  themselves,  or 
their  train,  could  dwell  or  eat  there  ;   and  the  land 
which  their  feet   touch,   becomes   their   property; 
therefore,  though  they  often  came  oflf  to  the  ship,  ate 
what  was  banded  down  to  them,  and  bailed  the  water 


(    43    ) 

.,„n.e.  canoe,  t^-^-i::;^;^^^^^ 
and  when  they  vmted  our  m  ^.^^  ^^^ 

never  came  further  *«>  the  ^^J  ,  „„„ber  of  men. 
the  queen  are  alway.  -^^fj  ^4,0  are  raa,  or 
as  carriers,  lomestic^  or  av^  -  ^^.^^  only 
saerea ;  they  live  wrfhou  fanul  ^,^^^  ^^^ 

on  the  royal  pair.    A  wo     „„.  exist  upon  the  whole 
plunder.and  impurity,  doesnote«st  up 

island.  .     . .  _  gnd  queen,  is  with 

The  mode  of  """^'"S  *"  ^s^ated  „>»  the  shonl- 
tt,eir  legs  hanging  <>»-  ^fad  of  tir  carriers,  and 
ders,  and  leamng  on  *«  ^"  ^  ^a,  picking  out 

,ery  frequently  '«»''^'°S*e«'«^l;  ^j,,  ,i„g„,„ 

the  vermin,  which  *«-  Jound  ^^^^^^^  ^^^  ^,^^^ 
privilege  of  the  queen  tha^o^^  ^^^^^  ^^.,^  ^„ 

„ay  eat  ^e-^  wl..chjr^   ;^^ 
make  use  of.    On  tiieir  but  seldom  move 

condescend  to  alight  and  wa«^^^^    ^^^^  ^^^^^^^^ 

far  without  their  P"'*^*.  „  ^  ^different  from  his 

'^  ^  "-'''  ira3  oTaV^Sshcast  of  counte- 
fpUows  ;  reddish,  ana  oi  There  are 

::r:.  ;nd  «« l.air  ;^«-;^Xt  .BtLg^^^^ 
a  tew  others  somewhat  similar, 

an  anomalous  breed.  ^^^  j^^^er,  Po- 

The  next  in  rank  to  the  king  .^  ^^^^ 

marree,  who  acts  ^Slt^  e^,  and  peculiarly 
sented  as  of  very  ^^^^^^  ^^e  largest  man 

attached  to  the  Mi— "«^ .  J/J  fo„,  i„ches  high, 
on  the  island  be^S  ^^--fperson  in  the  ship 

and  strong  built.      Ihe  w         f  ,^^eigli 

Hrdly  reached  his  shoulders;  and  he 


(     44     ) 


as  much  as  three  or  four ;  yet  he  is  no  warrior,  and 
in  military  prowess  is  exceeded  by  his  wife  Iddeah, 
a  woman  of  a  most  masculine  appearance  and  dis- 
position. 

The  next  in  dignity  are  the  chiefs :  some  of  them 
are  supreme  in  more  than  one  district,  and  exercise 
regal  power  in  their  own  territories,  yet  still  subject 
to  Otoo  as  sovereign,  and  liable  to  be  called  upon 
for  assistance :  these,  also,  have  houses  and  lands  in 
many  districts,  which,  as  they  cannot  occupy  them- 
selves, they  commit  to  the  care  of  superintendants, 
called  meduas,  or  give  them  to  their  tayos,  who  en- 
joy all  the  fruits  without  being  called  to  any  account, 
and  share  t^em  with  the  chiefs,  when  they  themselves 
come  tr  reside. 

The  near  relations  and  younger  brothers  of  the 
chiefs,  who  are  called  lowhas,  with  the  tayos  of  the 
chiefs,  follow  in  order  of  dignity ;  and  if  there  are 
more  chiefs  than  one,  the  district  is  divided  into  dif- 
ferent padtdoos,  or  parishes,  and  each  of  these  has 
towhas  under  him.  The  next  rank  is  the  ratirra,  or 
gentleman,  who  has  one  portion  to  the  towha's  three. 
These  smaller  estates  are  called  rahoe,  from  the 
power  which  the  ratirra  has  to  lay  a  prohibition  on 
his  own  land,  or  on  any  sort  of  provision,  as  well  as 
the  towha  on  his  portion,  and  the  chief  on  the  whole ; 
but  this  power,  though  sometimes  fvbused,  is  usually 
employed  after  a  great  consumption  of  provisions,  or 
to  accumulate  them  for  some  feast.  The  principal 
object  of  the  rahoe  are  hogs,  though  sometimes  it  ex- 
tends also  to  otiier  sorts  of  provisions ;  as  when  shell- 


#' 


mmtm 


(    *«    ) 

fish  are  scarce  on  the  reefs,  the  ratirra  can  rahoe  his 
portion ;  which  is  done  by  sticking  up  at  the  extrem- 
ities of  it  two  branches  of  a  tree,  to  which  a  white 
cloth  is  attached ;  and  no  person  dare  fish  there  whilst 
these  remain.  When  the  rahoe  is  taken  off,  and  the 
offering  of  a  hog  and  fish  is  made,  the  place  is  again 
free ;  and  the  feast  is  given  by  the  person  who  put  on 
the  rahoe :  this  is  called  oroa ;  and  besides  feasting 
the  guests,  it  is  expected  that  he  should  present  them 
with  large  quantities  of  cloth ;  some  of  this  is  thrown 
to  the  populace  to  scramble  for,  which  makes  sport, 
the  cloth  being  torn  into  ribands;  and  however  small, 
they  prefer  it  to  a  large  piece,  which  they  might  have 
for  asking.  These  narrow  slips  they  wear  as  favoun 
in  honour  of  the  feast.  The  young  men  wrestle,  th« 
women  dance,  and  the  feast  is  often  prolonged  several 
days. 

When  such  a  feast  is  made  by  a  chief  on  taking  off 
the  rahoe  from  a  whole  district,  it  is  called  towroa ; 
then  larger  quantities  of  cloth,  live  hogs,  bamboos  of 
oil,  and  even  canoes,  are  given  to  be  scrambled  for. 

At  these  entertainments  most  of  the  chiefs  of  the 
island  are  present,  vast  numbers  of  the  areoies,  and 
all  descriptions  of  people.  The  towroa  resembles  a 
country  fair,  to  which  every  one  who  goes,  brings 
home  something  to  show  where  he  has  been,  with 
this  difference,  that  here  it  costs  nothing ;  and  be- 
sides the  sport  of  the  herroo,  they  are  feasted  all  the 
time.  Great  quantities  of  hogs  are  dressed  on  this 
occasion ;  and  a  stranger  would  suppose  every  one 
on  the  island  had  been  collected.    The  cloth  and  ca* 


.• 


"W1IW!!W»*>«»* 


(       *«       ) 

noes  seldom  fall  to  the  share  of  the  same  persoUf 
but  are  mostly  rent  in  pieces  ;  and  he  who  gets  the 
largest  piece  is  the  best  man.  If  several  of  a  family 
seize  and  carry  off  the  canoe,  it  is  their  own ;  and  he 
who  first  catches  the  hog,  carries  it  home. 

The  things  appointed  for  this  sport  are  all  brought 
together  in  an  open  space.  The  chief's  men  hold 
the  hogs  till  the  priest  has  made  a  long  prayer  on  the 
occasion :  at  the  conclusion  of  which  he  throws  a 
young  plantain  into  one  of  the  canoes,  which  stand 
in  a  row,  with  masts  erected  to  spread  the  cloth,  and 
hang  the  bamboos  of  oil ;  immediately  on  this  signal, 
the  hogs,  goats,  and  fowls,  are  let  loose,  and  the  young 
men  and  women  begin  the  chase,  which  continues  a 
considerable  time  before  all  are  caught,  affording 
many  a  laughable  incident :  after  this,  the  pr  '^nts 
are  given,  and  the  feast  served  up.  Wrestli  nd 
dancmg  occupy  a  part  of  evety  day  and  night  ^hile 
the  feast  continues.  Thvy  have  other  feasjts,  held  at 
the  ratirra's  morai,  called  oboo  noe,  where  they  meet 
in  smaller  companies,  baking  a  hog  and  eating  it  on 
the  spot ;  and  if  not  cleared  the  first  day,  they  come 
the  second  or  the  third,  as  none  must  be  removed 
from  the  morai.  The  chief  of  the  padtdoo,  and  the 
priests  are  always  invited  on  these  occasions ;  and  if 
absent,  a  portion  is  put  by  for  them  till  they  arrive, 
which  they  seldom  fail  to  do.  If  the  chief  does  not 
come,  the  priests  are  entitled  to  his  portion.  At  this 
*  feast,  no  woman,  nor  any  of  her  male  attendants,  can 
be  present  or  partake  of  it.  At  all  these  they  brew 
plenty  of  yava ;  and  they  who  can  get  it,  drink  it 


•' 


(     47     ) 

friest  offers  .  long  P-y;;;;^  Tro'lns,  with  a  bit 
lecU  a  small  portion  of  a^  the  P  ^  ^^  ^^^^^^ 

„r  yava-root  P«  J^ -  -  „  ^.^.,,,  •„,„  ^  „.any 
to  the  Eatooa.    The  hog  ^  ^^^  p,^^,^^^ 

.hares  as  persous  ;  each  cats  as  m  ^^^^  ^^ 

.„a  puts  the  -"--"^^.X  portion.     K  « 
.eaves,  .i»  he  -7;;;^"^  U  always  invited  to 
.tranger  passes  by  at  *e  jm.    ^^^^^  ^  ^^  ^ 
partake,  provided  he  deel  ^^^^  ^^„  ^  „^^ 

c^i^r-p---— ^^^""^ 

-rw^rent^^erva^^^^^ 

feasts  also,  ca-^  —00^  ^^una.    Any  man  who 

fish,  and  not  kept  on  sacreU  g  ^^^^^ 

U  invited  may  P-t'^^"  -""  ^^  manahoune :  they 

in  society,  after  the  -^^t    *  mWe  our  cottagers ; 

cultivate  the  land,  and  mo  t  r^em  ^^^^^  ^^ 

some  are  r..,  or  hallowed    and  ot         _^^  ^^^^^ 

unclean.    These  are  under  the  ^^.^  ^^^. 

,„a  answer  all  their  '"^J^;  ^^^^^^^^^  or  assist 
Uty,  make  cloth  for  them  bud^h^^^^^    ^^^  ^^^.^ 

in  any  laborious  work  '«^"  J      ^^^  „,  residence: 

vassalage  compels  -  ^^  ;„»'''-  -«^"'=*- 
they  may  change  chiefs  and  g  ^^  ^^.^ 

TKe  servants  - -"fJ^-^^/i^t  uncommon  to 

wholly  on  the  wo^;»;;"J;st  families  so  debased; 
ruIhT/snlflle  servi..ey  become  e. 

Sd  from  all  reUgioussolenmitie.. 


(     48     ) 


Tbere  jret  remains  a  cet  of  men  of  the  most  exe^ 
crable  cast,  called  mahoos,  afifecting  the  manners, 
dress,  gestures,  and  voice  of  females,  and  too  horrid 
to  be  described. 

In  the  scale  of  rank,  birth  enjoys  singular  distinction. 
A  chief  is  always  a  chief;  and  though  expelled  from 
his  command,  losing  his  district,  or  having  his  honours 
transferred  to  his  child,  he  continues  noble  and  res- 
pected ;  on  the  other  hand,  no  acquisition  can  raise 
a  common  man  to  a  higher  station  than  that  of  tow- 
ha,  or  ratirra :  yet  the  meanest  are  in  no  slavish  de- 
pendence. The  honour  and  respect  they  pay  their 
chief,  is  rather  through  custom  than  the  fear  of  pu- 
nishment. They  are  admitted  to  his  society  on  all 
occasions,  and  treated  with  perfect  freedom  ;  indeed, 
in  outward  appearance  they  can  hardly  be  distinguish- 
ed. The  king  is  not  averse  to  join  in  conversation 
with  the  lowest  of  his  subjects,  or  to  be  their  visitor ; 
and  never  treats  them  with  disdain.  His  retinue  it 
often  changing :  no  man  serves  him  longer  than  he 
pleases.  They  have  no  wages,  nor  engage  for  any 
slated  time,  thou^yh  some  remain  in  the  family  all 
their  lives ;  and  these  ancient  domestics  are  as  much 
respected  as  their  ovn  relations,  giving  directions  t<i 
the  younger  branches,  and  managing,  as  stewards,  the 
affairs  of  the  household  without  control. 

They  are  friendly  and  generous,  even  to  a  fault ; 
they  hardly  refuse  any  thing  to  each  other,  if  impor- 
tuned. Their  presents  are  liberal  and  profuse.  Po-^ 
verly  never  makes  a  man  contemptible  ;  but  to  be 
affluent  and  covetous,  is  the  greatest  shau^e  and  re- 


^i- 


I  %*i^mi  \ti^SMiSSiittMm»''m 


(    49    ) 

|iroach.  Should  any  man  betray  symptoms  of  incor- 
rigible avariciousness,  and  refuse  to  part  with  what 
he  has  in  time  of  necessity,  he  would  be  in  danger  of 
soon  being  placed  on  a  footing  with  the  poorest.  T  hey 
will  give  their  clothes  from  Jieir  back,  rather  than 
be  called  peere  peere,  or  stingy. 

Respecting  property,  they  have  no  writirjgs  or 
records,  but  memory  and  landmarks.  Every  man 
knows  his  own;  and  he  would  be  thought  of  all  cha- 
racters the  basest,  who  should  attempt  to  infringe  on 
his  neighbour,  or  claim  a  foot  of  land  that  did  not  be- 
long to  him,  or  his  adopted  friend ;  for  the  tayo  may 
use  it  during  his  friend's  lifetime,  and  if  he  has  no 
cliild,  possess  it  at  his  death. 

If  a  man  bequeaths  his  property  on  his  death-bed, 
no  person  disputes  the  bequest,  as  there  are  always 
many  witnesses  to  the  gift,  if  the  heir  is  not  present. 
The  landmarks  set  by  their  ancestors,  the  father 
points  out  to  his  son,  or  heir ;  and  should  a  dispute 
arise,  through  decay,  or  removal,  multitudes  know 
where  they  stood,  and  the  maitter  is,  in  general,  easily 
settled.  Indeed,  it  is  much  the  8^:iffle  in  all  litigations; 
the  case  is  referred  to  a  byscander,  and  the  party 
which  he  declares  in  the  wrong  submits,  and  makes 
the  other  a  peace-ofTeriug  of  the  plantain  stalk.  Men 
seldom  fight  in  consequence  of  personal  quarrel.  If 
any  matter  of  serious  oiTence  is  given,  the  whole  fa- 
mily or  district  take  it  up,  and  go  to  war  with  their 
opponents;  but  if  they  choose  not  to  fight,  a  peace- 
offering  is  never  refused;  if  they  will  fight,  the  weak- 
est must  suffer;  and  as  all  the  relations  adopt  the 

F 


.'j 


■ 


BKS 


9mF 


(    so    ) 


I  '-* 


quarrel,  there  is  sometimes  much  bloodshed,  aad  it 
frequently  leads  to  a  general  war.  Such  broils,  in- 
deed, are  sometimes  produced  by  what  appears  very 
trifling ;  such  as  scurrilous  words  spoken  against  the 
heir  of  a  large,  or  small  estate ;  neglect  of  proper  re- 
spect to  a  child,  and  other  thing»  as  trivial ;  for  in- 
stance, as  the  child  from  the  moment  of  its  birth  be- 
comes the  head  of  the  family,  the  boundaries  of  his 
land  are  new  marked  with  rude  images ;  and  if  this 
new-born  infant  be  a  towha,  or  ratirra,  a  number  of 
little  flags  are  set  up  in  different  parts  of  the  bounda- 
ry ;  to  these  all  persons  of  inferior  rank  must  unco- 
ver themselves  as  they  pass,  whether  by  day,  or  by 
night ;  and  should  this  mark  of  homage  be  contemptu- 
ously neglected,  the  mother  flies  to  the  shark's  teeth, 
and  cuts  herself,  and  the  party  must  make  a  peace- 
offering  with  the  plantain.  Should  this  be  refused, 
the  father  and  mother  wtruld  tear  off  the  clothes  from 
his  back,  and  well  drub  him  into  the  bargain.  The 
friends  and  relations  sometimes  arm  themselves,  and 
fatal  consequences  folli»w.  Even  a  chief  has  been 
known  to  be  driven  from  his  district,  on  account  of  n 
dispute  originating  about  a  poor  man's  child  supposed 
to  be  affronted  by  one  of  the  same  rank  as  himself. 

The  famous,  or  rather  iofamous  arreoy  society, 
consisting  of  noble  persons  in  general,  have  also  dif- 
ferent ranks  among  themselves,  like  our  freemasons, 
known  by  the  manner  of  their  tattooing.  The  high- 
est are  called  ava'  bly  areema  tatowe;  the  next, 
ereemc  bly;  the  third,  ahowhoa;  the  fourth,  har- 
rotea;  the  fifth,  e'ote  olc;  the  sixth  and  seventh,  po. 


fe„ 


0 


I 


.         (    51     ) 

.  ■      .m     It  iB  the  practice  ot 
«nd  mo,  y»«*\T?vJ'sese8  0f  their  offspring 
this  society  to  destroy  both^^        ,i,eutnstance  of 
immediately  after  they  ««  T*"    ^^  Weah.  the  Wug's 
this  diabolical  nature  °^^^^^  ^^,  „f  that  society ; 
mother,  *ho  ^as  ^^^^f  ^  *  "X"  ding  to  every  part 

succeed  ia  preserving  ^J  «^;^  .,  „,i,e,  in- 

The  natural  -iou^;^^^;,!,  ,h„  ..e  most  ex- 
clining  to  copper.     IM  dark;  but  the  ^o- 

posed  to  the  sun  and  sea,  "^^^J  ^ut  a  shade 

'  i.„  ^awfullv  clothe  themselves, « 

men,  who  caremii)  „  brunett.      ^"ey 

o,   two    darker  than  a  W^*        ^^.a,,  ,oft  and 
,.ve  fine  black  ^y-'^; 'J;:JS1,  their  hair  is 
rielicate  skins,  and  ^^rnamenled  wi*  flow- 
of  a  jetty  *'^-\Pf""te  it  beautiful,  as.  by  con- 
ers,  but  their  fe"""?"  ^,,ieh  they  call  tou- 

tinual  P--«/^°;;;trwUhli^  halds,  distend 
voome,  they  w.den  the    .ce  w      ^^^  ^^^  ^^^^^^^^^ 

their   "'«"*'   ""'f^t  inline  look;  and  they  are  in 
winch  lives  U»cu>^mascun  ^,,„„uiers;   and 

general  large,  and  w«l<    "'  ^g,„ed  comely, 

though  -eyr'Snan^'ctuA  beauties,  yet 
there  are  but  few  whocan  b  ^^^^.^  ^^^^^  ^^, 

they  possess  en>.oent  —  ?         ^^^^^^^  ^.^^^  „ 
^Idom  darkened  with  a  «=«*  '  ^^,^  entire 

'^»-^"^tTo:':nr::S:oapfices,  sudden 
fitrans;crs  to  tnosc  uuc* 


^ 
■'?■: 


jiiMii  ■liillwlHii  »w 


„.«>Mtiw     1 1     **!  lliTT" 


M- 


\\ 


(    52    ) 

frowns,  and  violences  of  temper,  which  produce 
much  misery  to  civilized  society. 

Their  manners  are  affable  and  engaging;  their 
gait  graceful ;  their  behaviour  free  and  unguarded ; 
always  boundless  in  generosity  to  each  other,  and  to 
strangers;  in  comparison  of  which  no  people  in  the 
world,  perhaps,  exceed  them.  Nothing,  rither  in  the 
Missionary  excursions,  or  at  their  residence,  which 
they  wanted,  and  the  island  afforded,  was  withheld ; 
but  poured  in  with  the  greatest  profusion.  It  is  true, 
that  they  are  heathens  and  idolaters :  but  where,  in 
civilized  christian  countries,  is  such  gratuitous  con- 
duct known  ?  They  do  not  say,  "  depart  in  peace,  be 
ye  warmed  and  filled,"  and  permit  the  poor  mendi- 
cant to  remain  in  his  abject  situation :  no,  but  their 
actions  accompany  their  profession,  and  frequently 
the  act  precedes  the  profession.  Their  tempers  are 
mild,  gentle,  and  unaffected;  slow  to  take  offence, 
easily  pacified,  and  seldom  retaining  resentment,  or 
revenge,  whatever  provocation  they  may  have  re- 
ceived. 

The  men  in  general  are  above  our  common  size ; 
t>Ut  the  chiefs  are  mostly  a  larger  race,  few  of  them 
less  than  six  feet  high;  and  Poraarre  is  four  or  five 
inches  higher,  and  proportionably  bulky.  They  car- 
ry their  age  well ;  and  are  healthy  and  vigorous  at  a 
very  advanced  time  of  life  if  not  infected  with  dis- 
ease; such  are  Otey,  the  grandfather  of  Otoo,  and 
Manue  Manne,  the  high  priest,  and  others.  Their 
exact  age  can  only  be  collected  from  circumstances,  aa 


.,<  i 


(    53    ) 

w  account  of  lime;  yet  from  cTcnls 
they  keepno  regular  accoun^^^^^^^_^j^^^^^.^^^^y 

which  they  reW^'**"""     ^j"    .„^,9i  who  remember- 
^  formed.    Many  -^  ^;^^,irf,  squadron,  at  an 
ed  the  loss  of  one  of  ^^8^!^, 
island  north  ot  Ot»he»te,  «  V/;,„iy  U,e  same,  ex- 
The  dress  of  both  sex^  "°  »/.,,,  of  cloth, 
ceptiog  that  the  men  war  a  n^^ro  J.  ^^^^^^^  ^ 
which,  passing  round  *«.  ^^'J^^td  the  marro,  and 
«.ighs.  and  ist^ed^i^fo-.  ^^^^^  pi,,e.  ,ae 
^ay  be  called  their  ^^^f'^  ^^  *ide,  ^i*  » 

a  piece  of  printed  ««»7' ""l;^,  tangs  down  be- 
hl  in  the  middle  »-  -' *  ^^^f;  f  J„g  loose  as 
fore  and  behind,  with  «'^^^^;\,f  „^,  q„ite  unco- 
,owasthel^es.^<ll-^^^^^^^^    ^  square  piece  of 
vered;  this  is  called  *fj"  ^  ^  pass  once  and 

cloth  doubled,  of  ^y.'^^f^'Zr^  aU  above  the 
,  half  round  the  wa.t  of  *e  m  ^^^^  .^  ^^^^^ 

breasts  of  the  v'^'"^'^  ""   to  the  knees  of  the  men, 
paru;  this  falls  down  only  to  to  ^^  ^  ^^ 

Lttothe  midleg,  -^  f"^"^  /fn Tt  the  corner,  or 
«en,  and  is  somefmes  ^ucUd  ^^.^^  ^^  ^^ 

confined  by  a  girdle  of  J«">>  P  ^^^y,,,  often 
^atUng,  -"'^''''f  7;;,io  ;rre,  or  oblong,  fold- 
.vear  a  piece  of  cl»*' ;^^^;7„,e  all,  as  a  cloak; 
-^''^'^''^l^ttSSandveryf.ue.    ^ 

r5::r:-t:::;t"nXt: 

under  petticoat-  ,         jjjg  pani, 

When  traveUing,  they  usually  tuck  up 

F  2 


(  *4  ) 


to  prevent  its  being  soiled.  If  persons  of  rank  ap- 
pear with  more  than  the  ordinary  cloth  around  them, 
it  is  designed  for  a  present;  and  they  generally  ho- 
nour the  person  for  whom  it  is  intended  with  winding 
it  round  him  with  their  own  hands. 

The  women  uncorer  their  shoulders  and  breasts  iit 
the  presence  of  a  chief,  or  on  passing  the  sacred 
ground.  Their  bonnets  resemble  the  green  shades 
which  our  ladies  use  in  summer;  and  are  made  of 
the  leaves  of  the  cocoa-nut;  they  are  often  changed, 
as  they  must  cast  them  away  on  passing  the  morai^ 
The  women  have  no  moral,  nor  appropriate  place  of 
worship ;  nor  are  they  admitted  to  their  solemnities ; 
yet  they  expect  to  be  admitted  to  happiness  with  the 
Eatooa,  as  well  as  the  men* 

In  the  tattooing  of  both  sexes  there  is  a  small  spot 
on  the  inside  of  each  arm,  just  above  the  elbow,  for  a 
mark  of  distinction,  to  show  that  such  a  person  may 
eat  or  touch  his  father's  or  mother's  food,  without 
rendering  it  raa,  or  sacred ;  it  is  a  sort  of  seal,  that 
all  the  amoas  have  been  performed.  This  is  general- 
ly made  when  the  head  becomes  free,  which  is  the 
last  amoa,  except  that  of  friendship  and  marriage. 

The  man  who  performs  the  tattooing  is  called  at 
the  pleasure  of  the  parties,  and  no  constraint  is  ever 
used.  The  young  persons  will  not  suffer  him  to  leave 
off  while  they  can  endure  the  stroke  of  the  instru- 
ment, though  they  make  cries  and  lamentations  as  if 
be  was  killing  them.  When  the  pain  becomes  exces- 
sive, and  they  say  they  cannot  endure  it  any  longer,  no 
compulsion  is  used.    ISo  person  ever  liils  his  hand  to 


^ 


\ 


I 


'f 


(    S5    ) 

strike  a  child;  on  the  contrary,  the  joung  girk  under 
the  operation  will  often  strike  those  who,  from  com- 
passion, wish  them  to  suspend  the  operation,  as  they 
are  never  esteemed  women  till  the  whole  is  finished : 
this  sometimes  lasts  for  a  year  or  more,  by  intervals, 
from  the  commencement  of  the  tattooing. 

In  childbirth  the  women  submit  to  little  or  no  con- 
finement within  doors,  but  rise  and  go  about  as  usuaL 
The  infant  presently  crawls,  and  soon  begins  to  walk^ 
and  almost  as  soon  to  f^wim.  They  run  about  entirely 
naked,  and  are  remarkably  healthy  and  active. 

The  ingenuity  r^  all  their  works  is  wonderful, 
considering  the  tools  they  possess.  Their  cloth, 
clubs,  fishing  implements,  canoes  and  houses,  all  dis- 
play great  skill:  their  mourning  dresses,  their  war 
head-dress  and  breastplates,  show  remarkable  taste; 
their  adjustment  of  the  different  parts,  the  exact  sym* 
metry,  the  nicety  of  the  joining,  are  admirable ;  and 
it  is  astonishing  how  they  can  with  such  ease  and 
quickness  drill  holes  in  pearl  shell  with  a  shark's 
tooth,  and  so  ane  as  not  to  admit  the  point  of  a  com- 
mon pin. 

Their  year  consists  of  thirteen  months.  They 
Calculate  by  (he  changes  of  the  moon,  and  by  the  sun 
passing  and  repassing  over  their  heads.  They  pre- 
tend to  foretell  when  the  rains  will  set  in,  and  whether 
they  will  be  more  or  less  violent  than  common,  and 
prepare  accordingly.  They  know  the  seasons  for 
particular  fish ;  when  the  bread-fruit  will  come  in  sea- 
son; and  whether  the  harvest  will  be  plentiful  or 
scanty,  late  or  early.    They  divide  the  day   and 


MNMHiM 


(    58    ) 

night  into  twelve  equal  parts,  and  tliey  can  nearljr 
guess  what  the  hour  is  by  the  sun  and  stars. 

They  compute  distances  by  the  time  it  takes  to 
pass  from  one  place  to  another.  They  measure  their 
fishing  lines  by  the  fathom,  or  span,  and  sound  depths 
of  water  as  accurately  as  ourselves. 

Their  dwellings  are  about  eighteen  feet  in  the 
ridge-tree,  oblong,  and  rounded  at  the  ends.  Tliey 
are  furnished  with  a  few  wooden  trays  and  stools  for 
making  their  puddings,  posts  to  hang  their  baskets  of 
different  sorts,  to  store  their  provisions,  a  large  chest 
on  which  the  master  and  mistress  of  the  house  often 
sleep,  or  on  the  floor  spread  with  matting  and  cloth, 
and  covered  with  the  same ;  frequently  they  employ 
a  canoe-house,  just  sufiicient  for  their  length,  and  too 
low  for  them  to  stand  erect,  and  sometimes  a  bedstead. 
Mr.ny  in  fine  weather  sleep  in  the  open  air.  Their 
pillow  is  a  little  wooden  stool,  neatly  wrought  out  of 
one  block ;  and  they  who  have  no  such,  take  the 
stool  they  sit  upon  in  their  canoes.  They  usually 
sit  upon  the  ground  cross-leggec  ,  but  tliey  have  seats 
with  which  they  are  always  ready  to  compliment  a 
stranger.  The  unmarried  women  sleep  next  their  pa- 
rents, and  occupy  one  end  of  the  house ;  the  unmarried 
men  the  other.  The  servants  usually  sleep  in  the 
women's  eating-house,  or  near  it. 

Their  houses  are  full  of  fleas,  which  are  very  trou- 
blesome; these,  they  say,  were  brought  to  them  by 
the  Europeans.  The  Missionaries  were  greatly  tor- 
mented by  these  disturbers  of  repose,  when  they  slept 
in  European  sheets ;  f,nd  the  only  preventive  against 


they  have  no  other,  »luch  « tre^uentor  ^^ 

the  common  people  and  «';;;»"^f  ^.^t  clothe.,  or 
climate,  trouble  themselves  but  httle  about 

the  care  of  them.  numerous 

The  deities  of  O^^f  ^.f^"    ^very  family  has 

«  .he  persons  of  *^^tiM^isiu7-d-«hit. 

its  tee,  or  guardian  ^^J ^'^^  "J  J,  g„a,  or  gods 

ped  at  the  morai:  but  they  »iave     6  ^^ 

li  a  superior  order,  d^^^'^J  Jj^rEAXOOA. 
of  night.    ThegeneraUame^d^y^^ 

Three  are  held  ^^''^^'^^Zlpro^cb  unto. 

To  these,  the  ^'^^'J^^  ^^,,  ^  seasons  of 

payers  m  .«^'»^/ J^  ^g  them  too  exalted  to  be 
peculiar  exigency,  supposins  gickness, 

Lubled^ith  matters  of  -mome^^ 
storms,  devastations  w«.o' any  g    ^^^^^      ^^.^.^ 

deed,  fear  «"!  ^'^^"''S/     ^te  house  of  these  gods 
rs:ttt?:rr:hiefearierahie,or.ing.e. 

«  kind  of  hou^hold  f^;;^^'^    .^edrelaUves,  that, 

issupposedtobe  -J^^^;P  been  exalted  to  an 

for  his  superior  exce»enc    ,  ^^^^^^^ 

Eatooa.    Theybelieve  to  P»n  can  ^ 

or  remove  it,  and  preserve  them 


•mmfm 


: 


(    58    ) 

« 

deity  who  also  bears  the  name  of  tee,  and  is  alwajs 
employed  in  mischief. 

The  writer's  attention  was  once  attracted  in  the 
valley  of  Matavai  by  a  confused  and  lamentable  cry, 
apparently  proceeding  from  a  person  in  distress :  cu- 
riosity led  him  to  the  spot ;  where  he  beheld  a  native 
deeply  engaged  in  worship,  kneeling  before  one  of 
their  rudely  carved  images,  and  in  an  elevated  voice 
invoking  the  divinity.     The  following  dialogue  en- 
sued ;  the  first  question  which  arose  in  the  writer's 
mind  was  to  inquire  what  he  (the  native)  was  doing 
there,  and  why  he  made  so  much  noise  ?  to  which  he 
replied,  that  he  was  praying  to  his  god.  Q,.  For  what 
do  you  pray  to  your  god  ?    A.  Because  my  child  is 
sick,  and  near  the  point  of  death.    Q.  Where  is  your 
god  ?     A.  There  he  is,  (pointing  to  the  image.)  Q,.  Is 
not  that  a  piece  of  wood  which  you  have  formed  in 
that  manner  out  of  one  of  the  bread-fruit  trees,  that 
can  neither  hear,  see,  speak,  think,  or  act?  therefore 
can  render  no  sei-vice  towards  relieving  the  malady 
of  your  child.     A.  That  is  only  a  piece  of  wood,  but 
it  is  what  the  supreme  spirit  condescends  to  come  into 
when  we  pray.      Q,.  Where  is  the  residence  of  the 
supreme  spirit,  when  you  do  not  pray  ?  A.  Upon  the 
tops  of  the  high  mountains.     The  writer  embraced 
this  opportunity  of  conversing  with  him  (as  well  as 
his  knowledge  of  the  language  would  permit)  of  the 
character  of  the  eternal  God — his  omniscience,  omni- 
potence, omnipresence,  &c.    The  native  was  very 
attentive,  and  evinced  considerable  surprise. 

They  have  a  tradition,  that  once  in  their  anger  the 
2 


%if 


% 


#■ 


■^#, 


(    59    ) 


great  gods  broke  the  world  into  pieces ;  and  that  all 
the  islands  around  them  are  but  little  parts  of  what 
was  once  venooa  noe^  the  great  land,  of  which  their 
own  island  is  the  principal  part. 

Respecting  a  future  state,  they  believe  in  the  im- 
mortality of  the  soul,  and  admitting  no  punishment 
after  death,  but  degrees  of  eminence  and  felicity,  as 
men  have  been  here  most  pleasing  to  the  deity.  They 
regard  the  spirits  of  their  ancestors,  male  and  female, 
as  exalted  into  eatooas,  and  their  favour  to  be  se- 
cured by  prayers  and  ofTerings.     Every  sickness  and 
accident  they  esteem  as  a  judgment  for  some  offence ; 
and  therefore,  if  they  have  injured  any  person,  they 
send  their  peace-offering,  to  make  amends  for  the  in- 
jury: and  if  sick,  send  for  the  priest  to  offer  up 
prayers  and  sacrifices  to  pacify  the  offended  eatooa; 
giving  any  thing  the  priests  ask,  being  very  fearful  of 
death.     But  if  they  find  their  case  desperate,  they 
take  leave  of  their  friends,  and  commend  them  to  the 
guardian  spirits,  exhorting  them  to  be  more  careful  of 
offending  than  they  themselves  had  been.    When  the 
spirit  departs  from  the  body,  they  have  a  notion  that 
it  ia  swallowed  by  the  eatooa  bird,  who  frequents 
their  burying-places  and  morals ;  and  passes  through 
him  in  order  to  be  purified,  and  united  to  the  deity. 
And  such  are  afterwards  employed  by  him  to  attend 
other  human  beings  to  inflict  punishment,  or  remove 
sickness,  as  shall  be  judged  requisite. 

The  evil  demon  named  Tee  has  no  power  but  upon 
earth ;  and  this  he  exercises  by  getting  into  them  with 
their  food,  and  causing  madness,  or  other  diseases; 


(    60    ) 


i ; 
I 


I 


but  these  they  imagiDe  their  tutelar  saints,  if  pro- 
pitious, can  prevent,  or  remove. 

They  believe  the  stars  are  the  children  of  the  sun 
and  moon,  attributing  every  substance  to  procreative 
power;  and  pretend  to  foretell,  from  their  eclipses, 
the  future  events  of  war,  sickness,  or  the  like. 

They  imagine  when  a  star  shoots,  (as  we  call  it,)  it 
is  the  Eatooa;  that  in  the  moon  there  is  a  vast  coun- 
try containing  trees  and  fruits;  that  a  bird  of  Ota- 
iieite  once  flew  up  thither,  and  ate  of  the  fruit;  and 
on  his  return,  dropped  some  of  the  seeds,  from  which 
a  great  tree  sprang,  of  which  only  the  bird  still  eats. 

With  regard  to  their  worship,  an  Otaheitan,  in  no 
instance,  approaches  the  Eatooa  with  carelesness  and 
inattention;  he  is  all  devotion;  he  goes  to  the  place 
of  worship  with  reverential  awe ;  uncovers  himself 
when  he  treads  on  sacred  ground  and  prays  with  a 
fervour  that  would  do  honour  to  a  better  profession. 
He  firmly  credits  Vhe  tradition  of  his  ancestors. 
None  dares  dispute  the  existence  of  the  deity.  They 
put  great  confidence  in  dreams,  and  suppose  in  sleep 
the  soul  leaves  the, body  under  the  care  of  the  guar- 
dian angel,  and  moves  at  large  through  the  regions  of 
spirits.  Thus  they  say,  my  soul  was  such  a  night  in 
such  a  place,  and  saw  such  a  spirit  When  a  person 
dies,  they  say  his  soul  is  fled  away,  harre  po,  gone  to 
night.  It  is  singular  that  Pomarre  declared  to  the 
Missionaries,  that  he  had,  before  their  arrival,  been 
dreaming  about  the  speaking- book,  which  they  should 
bring  from  the  Eatooa. 

They  entertain  a  high  idea  of  the  power  of  spirits. 


^ 


A   : 


n. 


(    01 


) 


luthe  beautiful  aud  romantic  view  of  Taloo  liarbour, 
the  remarkable  peaked  mouatain  is  said  to  be  but  a 
part  of  the  original  one.  Some  spirits  from  Ulitea 
had  broken  off  the  other  half,  and  were  transporting 
it  down  the  bay,  in  order  to  carry  it  away  with  them, 
but,  being  overtaken  by  the  break  of  day,  they  were 
obliged  to  drop  it  near  the  mouth  of  ttie  harbour, 
where  it  now  stands  conspicuous  as  a  rock ;  for,  like 
the  elves  and  fairies  of  our  ancestors,  these  spirits 
walk  and  work  by  night. 

Their  sacrifices  and  oblations  are  various  and  libe* 
ral.  They  offer  to  their  gods  a  pai-t  of  every  thing 
that  is  produced  upon  the  island — ^Iiogs,  dogs,  fowls, 
and  vegetables;  and  at  every  feast  a  portion  is  pre- 
sented to  the  Eatooa  before  they  presume  to  take  their 
own  repast.  When  the  priest  denounces  the  neces- 
sity of  a  human  sacrifice,  or,  as  on  the  inauguration 
of  the  king,  custom  requires  such  offerings,  the  vic- 
tim is  fixed  upou  by  a  council  of  the  chief  with  the 
ratirras.  He  is  usually  a  notorious  character,  who 
has  been  guilty  of  blasphemy,  or  some  enormous 
crime,  or  a  stranger  who  has  fled  to  the  district  for 
shelter  from  some  other  part  on  account  of  ill  con- 
duct The  decision  of  tliis  council  is  kept  a  pro- 
found secret,  and  perhaps  the  only  one  which  is  so. 
An  opportunity  is  taken  in  the  night,  when  the  victim 
18  ^leep,  and  they  despatch  him,  if  possible,  with  one 
blow  of  a  stone  on  the  nape  of  the  neck,  to  prevent 
any  dipfigurement  of  the  body ;  a  bone  of  him  must 
not  be  broken,  cor  the  corpse  mangled  nor  mutilated. 
Jf  a  man  has  been  bitten  or  disfigured  by  a  woman, 

G 


«<v«mr 'I'm  ■  "  ■"    r I  «Vi.>ii >>»«^ 


■MMMMfiaMaMiMiMa 


i 


(     62     ) 

he  becomes  noa,  unclean  for  ever,  and  can  never  be 
offered  in  sacrifice.  The  victim  is  placed  in  a  basket 
of  cocoa-nut  leaves  fastened  to  a  long  pole,  and  car- 
ried in  a  sacred  canoe  to  the  moral,  when  the  eye  is 
offered  to  the  king  'with  the  ceremonies  before  de- 
scribed. 

If  the  chief  and  ratirras,  on  the  requisition  of  the 
priests,  declare  they  can  find  none  deserving  death  in 
their  district,  or  refuse  to  provide  a  human  sacrifice, 
a  hog  may  be  substituted  in  his  place :  and  it  is  con* 
adered  as  taking  off  something  from  the  horror  of  the 
deed,  that  none  are  pitched  upon  whose  lives  have 
not  been  justly  forfeited  by  their  crimes. 

The  sacred  ground  round  the  moral  affords  a  sanc- 
tuary for  criminals.  Thither,  on  any  apprehension 
of  danger,  they  flee,  especially  when  numerous  sacri- 
fices are  expected,  and  cannot  be  taken  from  thence 
by  force,  though  they  are  sometimes  seduced  to  quit 
their  asylum.  On  the  inauguration  of  Otoo  many 
took  refuge  in  the  precincts  of  the  mutineers*  habita- 
tion, which  was  held  sacred  as  the  moral,  and  where 
they  enjoyed  full  protection.  The  Missionaries' 
iiabitations  will  afford  as  assured  an  exemption ;  and 
the  whole  district  of  Matavai  being  ceded  to  them,  no 
nore  human  sacrifices  will  probably  be  demanded 
from  that  district :  and  such  an  example  will  have 
tlie  most  beneficial  tendency  to  abolish  tlie  custom  in 
other  places.  If  they  should  be  able  only  to  put  an 
end  to  a  practice  so  inhuman,  and  to  induce  the  fe- 
males to  preserve  and  commit  to  their  nurture  the  io 


4 


(    63    ) 

fants  devoted  to  destniction,  they  will  feel  themselves 
amply  rewarded  for  their  dangers  and  toils. 

As  soon  as  a  child  is  born,  a  kind  of  hut  is  raised 
witliin  the  house  mth  matting  and  cloth;  heated 
stones  are  then  placed,  with  sweet  herbs  and  grass 
spread  over  them ;  on  these  water  is  sprinkled,  and 
the  woman  shut  up  in  the  steam  which  rises,  till  she 
is  in  such  a  perspiration,  that  she  can  endure  the  heat 
no  longer ;  from  this  vapour-bath  she  comes  out  and 
plunges  into  the  river,  and  washing  herself  all  over 
puts  on  her  clothes,  and  takes  the  child  to  the  morai. 
This  she  repeats,  and  often  brings  on  the  ague ;  nor 
can  they  be  persuaded  to  desist  from  so  absurd  a 
custom,  such  being  the  force  of  prejudice. 

If  the  child  touches  any  thing  before  it  is  taken  to 
the  morai,  and  sundry  offerings  (called  amooa)  are 
made,  it  must  be  wholly  appropriated  to  their  use,  be- 
ing raa,  or  sacred ;  and  if  any  thing  touches  the  child's 
head  before  the  amooa  is  offered,  it  must  be  deposited 
in  a  consecrated  place  enclosed  for  that  purpose;  and 
if,  in  carrying  it  about,  the  head  touches  the  branch 
of  a  tree,  the  tree  must  be  cut  down ;  and  if  in  its  fall 
it  injures  another,  so  as  to  penetrate  the  bark,  that 
tree  must  be  cut  down  as  unclean  and  unfit  for  use. 

The  head  is  always  regarded  as  sacred;  after  the 
ceremonies  are  performed,  these  demands  cease,  but 
they  never  carry  any  thing  upon  their  heads,  nor  can 
they  be  touched  without  ofTence ;  and  the  cuttings  of 
their  hair  are  buried  at  the  morai. 

Both  sexes  go  naked  till  they  are  six  or  seven 


(    84    ) 


years  of  age ;  about  thirteen  or  fourteen  the  operation* 
of  tattooing  the  males  begin,  and  earlier  for  the  fe- 
males. The  instruments  employ  ed  for  tattooing  a  chief, 
or  head  of  a  family,  are  always  seni  to  the  moral,  and 
destroyed  as  soon  as  tlie  work  is  completed.  A  person 
without  the  honourable  marks  made  by  tattooing, 
would  be  as  much  despised  and  shunned,  as  if  with  u» 
he  should  go  about  the  streets  naked. 

They  bathe  three  times  a  day  in  fresh  water,  and 
always  wash  themselves  in  it  after  coming  out  of  the 
sea;  and  though  men  and  women  are  together,  there 
is  not  the  least  immodesty  permitted ;  they  slip  through 
their  clothes  without  any  indecent  exposures — it  would 
be  condemned  in  a  man  as  much  as  in  a  woman.  In 
their  dances  alone,  is  immodesty  allowed;  there  it  ap- 
pears the  effect  of  habit  or  custom,  as  no  person  could 
ever  be  prevailed  upon  to  do  in  any  private  compa- 
ny what,  when  they  dance  in  public,  is  allowed  with- 
out scruple.  In  fact,  though  chastity  and  modesty 
are  not  held  in  the  same  estimation  as  with  us,  yet 
many  of  their  married  women  are  said  to  pique 
themselves  on  its  strict  observance,  and  are  not  to  be 
Von  at  any  rate,  being  only  accessible  to  the  hus- 
band's tayo.  They  never  uncover  their  breasts  but 
tfhen  they  bathe,  nor  their  bosoms  and  shoulders  but 
in  the  presence  of  the  chief. 

They  pay  great  attention  to  cleanliness,  and  the 
decorations  of  their  persons,  by  extracting  every  hair 
from  their  nose,  arm-pits,  &c.  to  prevent  its  harbour- 
ing any  dust.  Their  beards  are  neatly  trimmed  witli 
shells,  and  their  hair  cut  according  to  fancy.     The 


t» 


i  i 


I  '■'■ 


i 


^ 


* 


(    6»    ) 


u 


m0 


women,  exce][it  those  who  affect  to  be  prophetesses, 
wear  their  hair  short  and  decked  with  flowers,  and 
pay  great  attention  to  their  persons.  They  adjust 
their  brows  and  eyelashes,  clipping  them  if  too  long, 
and  forming  the  eyebrows  into  regular  arches.  The 
men  are  as  attentive  to  their  persons,  and  will  sit  at  the 
glass  dressing  with  the  greatest  complaisance.  A  black 
cocoa-nut  shell  filled  with  water  served  them  for  a 
looking-glass,  till  they  were  supplied  with  what  they 
so  highly  prized.  Looking-glasses  are  an  article  of 
great  value  with  them ;  for  one  of  the  commonest 
kind,  from  three  to  four  inches  square,  a  fine  hog  of 
about  three  hundred  weight  could  be  purchased; 
scissors  also  being  a  necessary  appendage,  were 
esteemed  of  equal  value.  Fish  scales,  or -shells, 
formed  their  tweezers,  the  shark's  teeth  their  scissors, 
and  the  bamboo  their  combs.  Fragrant  oil  supplies 
the  place  of  pomatum,  and  powder  and  civef  can 
hardly  furnish  greater  beaux.  At  their  heivas  (or 
dances)  they  put  on  their  best,  and  dress  in  the  most 
tawdry  manner  that  fancy  can  suggest.  Both  sexes 
have  their  ears  bored  for  ornaments;  in  wliich  they 
wear  pearls  or  beads,  hanging  down  about  two  inches 
in  a  plait  of  hair ;  sometimes  the  hole  of  the  ear  is 
stuck  with  an  odoriferous  flower.  They  have  pearls 
which  they  value  very  highly;  and  at  first,  our  white 
beads,  which  resemble  them,  were  much  coveted; 
but  when  they  found  they  were  spoiled  with  water, 
they  ceased  to  be  regarded.  As  long  as  they  are  able 
to  move,  they  bathe ;  the  old,  who  can  scarcely  crawl, 
get  down  to  the  river;  nor  does  any  Bickness  or  dis- 

*    G  2 


*- 


'% 


(   ee  ) 

ease  prevent  them ;  Dotliiog  but  total  inabilitjr  keep» 
them  from  the  water. 

They  are  uniformly  excellent  swimmers  and  di- 
vers; it  was  affirmed  that  one  of  tlie  natives  swam 
from  Otaheite  to  Eimeo;  (15  miles;)  he  was  in  conse- 
quence esteemed  and  worshipped  as  a  god;  for  they 
declared  that  as  the  channel  was  infested  with  nume- 
rous sharks,  and  the  distance  so  great,  none  but  a  god 
could  pass  safely. 

They  produce  fire  by  the  friction  of  wood,  and 
with  a  quick  motion  rub  a  groove  in  the  board 
placed  at  their  feet  till  the  dust  produced  takes  fire; 
they  have  dried  leaves  or  grass  ready*  into  which 
they  sweep  this  tinder  dust,  and  wrapping  it  up,  wave 
it  in  the  wind  till  it  is  kindled  into  a  flame. 

They  never  suffer  a  fly  to  touch  their  food  if  they 
can  help  it ;  and  should  they  find  one  dead  ia  their 
puddings,  or  any  of  their  provisions,  they  thrw'  it  to 
the  hogs.  They  all  carry  fly-flaps,  which  are  usually 
made  of  feathers,  and  fixed  to  a  handle  of  wood  ten  or 
twelve  inches  long,  sometimes  carved,  sometimes  plain. 
The  wing-bones  of  the  largest  fowls,  when  cleaned^ 
are  used  for  handles;  and  if  they  have  not  these,  they 
take  a  bough  from  the  nearest  tree.  When  you  enter 
a  house,  or  a  place  where  provisions  are  cooking,  thiB 
is  the  first  thing  they  offer  you.  "When  the  provi- 
sions are  hot  before  you,  the  boys  continue  to  fan 
away  the  flies,  nothing  being  more  offensive  than  for 
a  fly  to  get  into  their  mouths ;  and  their  aversion  ta 
touch  them  with  their  hands  is  such,  that  should  a 
dead  fly  be  found  on  any  part  of  their  body,  they 


(     67     ) 


trould  j^o  instantly  to  the  river  to  wash  themselves. 
The  flies  are  very  numerous,  and  of  two  sorts ;  the 
common  black  fly,  and  a  gray  one  of  the  same  size, 
which  sometimes  stings  sharply.  They  have  also 
butterflies,  moths,  moschetoes,  lizards,  scorpions,  cen- 
tipedes, beetles,  crickets,  grasshoppers,  small  ants, 
sand-flies,  and  others ;  none  of  which  are  dangerous, 
nor  very  troublesome. 

If  strangers  lodge  with  them,  they  burn  the  candle- 
nut  stuck  on  skewers,  that  they  may  see  to  find  their 
way  in  and  out  of  the  house  without  inconvenience, 
as  there  are  sometimes  not  less  than  fifty  or  sixty  per- 
sons sleeping  on  the  floor.  It  is  not  unusual  for  them 
to  get  up  and  have  provisions  ready  in  the  night ;  and 
some  sit  and  chat,  and  tell  stories,  with  which  they 
are  always  delighted :  and  accounts  of  their  own  and 
neighbouring  islands,  please  them  much  better  than 
those  which  relate  to  Europe ;  indeed,  the  extrava- 
gant tales  they  have  heard  are  sufficient  to  make 
them  incredulous ;  for  one  told  them  that  the  English 
had  vessels  which  would  reach  from  Otaheite  to  Uli- 
tea,  about  forty  leagues ;  and  of  such  a  height,  that  a 
young  man  going  to  the  topmast-head  grew  gray  be- 
fore he  came  down  again ;  that  their  round  tops  con-^ 
tained  forests  of  fruit-trees  bigger  than  the  bread-fruit. 
Pomarre  earnestly  pressed  Capt.  Wilson  to  say  if  it 
was  true ;  but  though  undeceived  in  this  respect,  they 
are  as  much  staggered  at  hearing  of  a  house  of  stone 
of  ten  stories,  or  a  bridge  over  a  river  of  the  same 
materials,  as  wide  as  would  span  the  narrow  part  of 
their  valleys  from  mountain  to  mountain.    But  what* 


(     68     ) 


II 


ever  was  related  of  their  adjacent  islands,  their  in- 
habitants, country,  manners,  trees, '  canoes,  &c.  was 
heard  with  the  greatest  avidity,  and  always  drew  an 
audience  about  the  relater,  beyond  even  their  national 
favourite  stories. 

Here,  as  elsewhere,  there  are  some  who  make  a 
trade  of  beauty,  and  know  too  how  to  make  their  ad- 
vantage of  it,  having  persons  who  agree  for,  and  re- 
ceive the  price  of  prostitution;  but  if  a  person  is  the 
tayo  of  the  husband,  he  must  not  indulge  in  any  liber- 
ties with  the  daughters  or  sisters,  because  they  are  con- 
sidered as  his  own  sisters  or  daughters,  and  incest  is 
held  in  abhorrence  by  them ;  nor  will  any  temptation 
engage  them  to  violate  this  bond  of  purity.  The 
wife,  however,  is  excepted,  and  considered  as  a 
common  property  for  the  tayo.  The  women  of  quali- 
ty allow  themselves  greater  liberties  than  their  infe- 
nors;  and  many  of  the  arreoy  women  pride  them- 
selves on  the  number  of  their  admirers,  and  live  in  a 
fearful  promiscuous  intercourse.  Many  are  true  and 
tender  wives;  their  large  families  prove  their  sacred 
attachment  to  the  individual  with  whom  they  are 
united ;  and  our  European  sailors  who  have  married 
among  them  have  declared,  that  more  faithful  and 
affectionate  creatures  to  them  and  their  children 
could  nowhere  be  found.  The  history  of  Peggy  Stew- 
art shows  a  tenderness  of  heart  that  will  never  be 
heard  without  emotion:  she  was  daughter  of  a  chief, 
and  taken  for  his  wife  by  Mr.  Stewart,  one  of  the  un- 
happy mutineers  of  his  majesty's  ship  Bounty.  They 
had  lived  with  the  old  chief  in  the  most  tender  state  of 


(     69     ) 


loai 


te  a 


re- 


endearment;  a  beautiful  little  girl  had  been  the  fruit 
of  their  union,  and  Avas  at  the  breast  when  the  Pan- 
dora arrived,  seized  the  criminals,  and  secured  them 
in  irons  on  board  the  ship.  Frantic  with  grief,  the 
unhappy  Peggy  (for  so  he  had  named  her)  flew  with 
her  infant  in  a  canoe  to  the  arms  of  her  husband.  The 
interview  was  so  afTccting,  that  the  officers  on  board 
were  overwhelmed  with  anguish,  and  Stewart  himself, 
unable  to  bear  the  heart-rending  scene,  begged  she 
might  not  be  again  admitted  on  board.  She  was 
separated  from  him  by  violence,  and  conveyed  on 
shore  in  a  state  of  despair  and  grief  too  great  for  ut- 
terance. Forbidden  to  come  any  more  on  board,  she 
sunk  into  the  deepest  dejection;  it  preyed  on  her 
vitals;  she  lost  all  relish  for  food  and  life;  pined 
under  a  rapid  decay  of  two  months,  and  fell  a  victim 
to  her  feelings,  dying  literally  of  a  broken  heart. 

They  are  very  fond  of  dogs,  and  especially  those 
with  a  bushy  tail,  the  hair  of  which  they  employ  in 
their  fine  breast-plates ;  and  the  women  not  only  fon- 
dle the  puppies,  but  suckle  them  at  their  breasts. 

The  women  are  not  permitted  to  eat  with  the  men, 
nor  to  drink  out  of  the  same  cup.  Many  kinds  of 
food  are  utterly  forbidden  them;  and  those  which 
they  may  use,  are  gathered  and  dressed  by  themselves, 
or  by  those  feminine  male  associates  who  wait  upon 
them,  and  live  with  them.  If  a  man  touch  their  pe- 
culiar food,  they  are  obliged  to  throw  it  away.  No 
representation  of  a  woman  is  permitted  at  any  of 
their  morais. 

They  do  not  accustom  themselves  to  regular  meals; 


(    70    ) 


but  usually^  eat  as  soon  as  they  rise  at  daybreak. 
Some  are  very  voracious,  especially  the  chiefs.  Po- 
marre  has  eaten  a  couple  of  fowls,  and  two  pounds,  at 
least,  of  pork,  besides  other  things,  at  a  meal,  on 
board  the  Duff.  The  chiefs  all  live  luxuriously: 
they  only  work  for  amusement ;  drink  the  yava  daily ; 
when  they  sleep  are  fanned  and  chafed  by  their  wo- 
men ;  and  often  sit  up  great  part  of  the  night  at  their 
heivas  and  entertainments. 

They  express  their  joy  and  their  sorrow  in  the 
same  way;  for  whether  a  relation  dies,  or  a  dear 
friend  returns  from  a  journey,  the  shark's  tooth  instru- 
ment is  employed,  inflicting  wounds,  till  the  blood 
streams  copiously  down.  The  Missionaries  signified 
their  disapprobation  of  these  self-inflicted  cmelties; 
they  prevailed  with  the  natives  to  suspend  for  them, 
at  least,  such  expressions  of  pleasure ;  and  taught  them 
to  shake  hands,  or  welcome  them  with  smiles  instead 
ef  streams  of  blood. 

Their  mode  of  salutatioil  is  very  different  from 
ours :  they  touch  noses,  and  wonder  tliat  we  can  ex- 
press affection  by  wetting  one  anotlier's  faces  with 
our  lips. 

In  war  they  practise  no  discipline,  and  are  under 
no  obligation  to  fight  longer  than  they  like ;  and  it  is 
much  less  disgraceful  to  mn  away  fri^m  an  enemy  with 
whole  bones,  than  to  fight  and  be  wounded ;  for  this, 
they  say,  would  prove  a  man  rather  foolish  than  war- 
like. Except  a  man  has  killed  an  enemy,  he  is  not  es- 
teemed a  warrior ;  and  though  they  dread  a  scar  as  dis- 
honourable, tliey  fight  with  a  fury  bordering  on  mad- 
2 


(  "  ) 


I 


ness,  as  they  know  the  loss  of  a  battle  would  be  the 
lobs  of  all  their  property;  which,  though  of  incon^ 
siderable  value,  they  are  reluctant  to  be  deprived  of, 
not  80  much  from  any  covetous  desire  of  possessing, 
as  from  their  priding  themselves  on  their  generosity, 
and  having  something  to  give ;  and  as  they  do  it  with  a 
grace  that  adds  much  to  the  favour. 

When  a  friend  or  a  stranger  visits  a  family,  he  is 
received  with  the  most  cordial  welcome.     The  oc- 
casion of  his  visit  and  his  wishes  are  demanded  by 
the  master  of  the  family,  and  answered  with  the  great- 
est frankness.     Preparation  is  then  made  of  a  pig,  or 
fowl,  to  entertain  the  stranger;  and  if  it  is  more  than 
can  be  eaten,  it  is  put  into  a  basket,  and  sent  with  him 
home ;  whatever  he  requests  is  given,  if  in  the  power 
of  the  host ;  and  if  not,  he  sends  round  to  his  friends 
and  neighbours  to  procure  it ;  this  also  is  accompanied 
with  a  present  of  cloth  and  perfumed  oil,  or  some- 
thing which  has  cost  them  labour,  as  they  say  provi- 
sions come  spontaneously,  and  are  to  be  made  little 
store  of;  but  what  is  manufactured,  or  obtained  with 
toil,  is  best  sitited  to  be  given  or  received  as  presents. 
If  any  person  sneezes,  they  use  the  salutation  youra- 
na  t'  Eatooa,  God  bless  you. 

They  never  return  thanks,  nor  seem  to  have  a  word 
in  their  language  expressive  of  that  idea.  Should  they 
not  meet  Avith  a  cordial  welcome,  they  would  say  so 
without  scruple  to  the  next  person  they  visited,  which 
would  be  highly  disgraceful  to  the  offender,  as  their 
established  law  of  hospitality  is  to  entertain  all  stran- 
gers ;  and  many  m  ake  the  tour  of  the   island  for 


(     72     ) 


\) 


BiouUiB  together,  sure  to  find  everywhere  a  cordial 
reception. 

From  one  cause  or  another,  they  frequently  change 
their  names;  so  that  a  person  absent  from  them  a  few 
years,  would  be  at  a  loss  to  find  out  those  with  whom 
he  was  best  acquainted,  unless  he  met  them.  The 
names  of  places  and  things  are  continued,  unless  they 
happen  to  consist  of  syllables  containing  the  king's 
name,  in  which  case,  during  his  lifetime,  they  are 
changed,  but  at  his  death  the  common  name  is  re- 
sumed. 

They  have  an  aversion  to  compare  the  size  of  any 
food  to  a  person's  head,  and  regard  this  as  a  species  of 
blasphemy  and  insult.  A  hand  laid  on  the  head 
would  be  a  high  offence.  One  of  those  seamen  who 
resided  on  the  island,  in  outrage  of  their  customs, 
would  carry  provisioL  on  his  head,  and  was  regarded 
with  horror  as  a  cannibal :  they  have  even  different 
names  for  the  head  of  a  hog,  a  dog,  a  bird,  a  fish. 

They  have  various  sports  and  amusements ;  of  these 
swimming  in  the  surf  appears  to  afford  them  singular 
delight.  At  this  sport  they  are  very  dexterous;  and 
the  diversion  is  reckoned  great  in  proportion  as  the 
surf  runs  highest  and  breaks  with  the  most  violence : 
they  will  continue  it  for  hours  together,  till  they  are 
Ured.  Some  use  a  small  board,  about  two  feet  and  a 
half  long,  formed  with  a  sharp  point,  like  the  fore  part 
of  a  canoe ;  but  others  depend  wholly  on  their  own 
dexterity.  They  swim  out  beyond  the  swell  of  the 
surf,  which  they  follow  as  it  rises,  throwing  themselves 
on  the  top  of  the  wave,  and  steering  with  one  leg. 


J; 


tl 


"^ilNwwi" 


(  "  ) 

vrliilst  the  other  is  raised  out  of  the  water,  their  breait 
reposing  on  the  plank,  and  moving  themselves  forward 
with  one  hand,  they  are  carried  with  amazing  veloci- 
ty, till  the  surf  is  ready  to  break  on  the  shore,  when, 
in  a  moment,  they  steer  themselves  with  so  quick  a 
motion  as  to  dart  head  foremost  through  the  wave,  and, 
rising  on  the  outside,  swim  back  again  to  the  place 
where  the  surf  begins  to  swell,  diving  all  the  way 
through  the  waves,  which  are  running  furiously  on 
the  shore. 

In  the  course  of  this  amusement  they  sometimes 
strike  against  each  other,  when  many  are  swimming 
together;  those  who  are  coming  on  not  being  able 
to  stop  their  motion,  and  those  who  are  moving  the 
contrary  way,  unable  to  keep  at  a  sufficient  distance, 
so  that  they  are  carried  together  by  the  rushing  waves 
and  hurled  neck  and  heels  on  shore  before  they  cao 
disembarrass  themselves,  and  get  much  bruised  on 
their  landing.  The  women  are  very  dexterous  at  this 
sport ;  and  Iddeah,  the  queen-mother,  is  considered  the 
most  expert  in  the  whole  island.  The  children  take  the 
same  diversionin  a  weaker  surf,  learning  to  swim  ieis 
soon  as  they  can  walk,  and  seldom  meet  with  any  ac* 
cident  except  being  dashed  on  the  beach;  but  hardly 
ever  is  a  person  drowned.  If  a  shark  comes  in  among 
them,  they  surround  him,  and  force  him  on  shore,  if 
they  get  him  into  the  surf,  though  they  use  no  instru- 
ments for  the  purpose;  and  should  he  escape,  they 
continue  their  sport  without  fear. 

On  shore  they  throw  the  spear,  or  javelin,  shoot 
with  bows   and  arrows,  wrestle,  dance,  and  amuse 

H 


(     74     ) 


I 


V 


tliemselves  with  several  other  gamea;  at  all  which 
the  women  play  as  well  as  the  men ;  but  always  sepa- 
rate. 

.  The  javelins  are  from  eight  to  fourteen  feet  long, 
and  pointed  with  the  fwharra,  or  palm-tree,  and  some- 
times with  fish  bones.  Tliey  frequently  exercise  in 
throwing  the  spear.  At  this  game,  one  district  often 
plays  against  another,  but  never  for  any  wager,  only 
the  district  in  which  they  play  provides  an  entertain- 
ment. 

Their  bows  are  neatly  made,  and  their  arrows  of 
small  bamboos,  pointed  with  toa  wood,  which  they 
fix  on  with  bread-fruit  gum.  With  these  they  shoot 
against  each  other,  not  at  a  mark,  but  for  the  greatest 
distance.  They  never  use  this  instrument  in  war; 
and  the  clothes  they  wear  on  this  occasion  are  sacred 
to  the  game,  and  never  worn  at  any  other  time. 

In  wrestling,  after  forming  the  circle,  they  begin 
with  an  act  of  defiance,  or  challenge,  which  is  made 
by  striking  the  arm  above  the  elbow  with  the  hand, 
which  makes  a  loud  report,  and  sometimes  so  frequent 
and  violent,  that  the  arm  is  made  quite  black.  One 
'  steps  forward  to  the  centre  and  another  advances  to 
meet  him;  sometimes  they  stand  gazing  at  each  other 
till  one  suddenly  plumps  the  top  of  his  head  into  the 
face  of  his  opponent,  and  causes  him  to  retire  much 
affronted,  to  the  great  amusement  of  the  bystanders : 
at  other  limes,  they  close  together,  and  he  who  throws 
bis  antagonist  is  considered  victor,  and  goes  clapping 
round  the  ring,  while  the  vanquished  retires,  but  is 
not  considered  to  have  incurred  any  disgrace.    If 


1 


(     75     ) 


one  ujstrkt  wrestles  against  another,  the  women  always 
wrestle  first,  and  the  men  follow. 

They  sling  both  for  amusement  and  in  battle,  with 
great  force  and  tolerable  exactness.  Their  slings  arc 
made  of  the  plaited  fibres  of  the  cocoa-nut  husk ;  they 
have  a  broad  part  for  the  stone :  at  one  end  is  a  loop 
for  the  hand  to  keep  the  sling  fast  when  tliey  discharge 
the  stone.  In  charging  the  sling  they  hold  it  round 
their  shoulders,  keeping  the  stone  fast  in  it  with  their 
left  thumb,  and  jumping,  swing  the  sling  three  times 
round  their  head,  holding  the  left  hand  grasped  on  the 
wrist  of  the  right,  and  thus  discharge  the  stone  with  a 
force  sufficient  to  enter  the  bark  of  a  tree  at  two  hun- 
dred yards  distance. 

The  country  produces  an  abundance  of  every  thing 
necessary  for  the  support  of  its  inhabitants.  Th  y 
have  multitudes  of  hogs,  which  breed  rapidly,  and 
gome  very  large :  dogs  are  highly  relished,  and  rats 
are  numerous  and  troublesome :  common  fowls  are  iu 
great  abundance.  These,  with  the  birds,  constitute 
the  chief  of  their  animal  food. 

An  effort  had  been  made  to  increase  their  stock,  but 
with  little  success.  They  had  a  breed  of  sheep  which 
perished.  They  made  attempts  to  dress  the  beef  and 
mutton;  but  having  no  mode  but  burning  tliem  as  the 
hogs,  and  baking  them  in  their  ovens,  the  hide  was  as 
tough  as  leatlier,  and  the  taste  highly  offensive :  this 
made  them  neglected  and  despised.  The  goats  have 
fared  better,  but  they  are  disliked  for  their  smell,  and 
the  mischief  they  do  the  cloth  plantatioos,  and  are  so 


(     76    ) 

inferior  to  their  hogs  and  dogs,  as  never  to  be  eatcfl 
by  the  natives.     The  cate  multiply,  and  are  useful. 

They  take  great  plenty  of  various  sorts  of  fish,  and 
they  have  such  a  profusion  of  roots,  fruits,  and  vege- 
tables, as  can  scarcely  be  enumerated :  the  gi'eater  part 
grow  spontaneously,  and  need  neither  labour  nor  cul- 
ture.    The  principal  of  these  is  the  ooroo,  or  bread- 
fniit.     This  beautiful,  useful,  and  highly  esteemed 
vegetable,  is  in  the  highest  perfection  at  Otaheite.     It 
grows  to  the  height  of  more  than  forty  feet;  in  its 
branches  it  resembles  the  oak;  the  leaves  are  more 
like  those  of  the  fig-tree  in  colour  and  substance :  they 
are  a  foot  and  a  half  in  length,  of  an  oblong  form,  the 
edges  deeply  indented,  and  the  ribs  yield,  when  bro- 
ken, a  white  milky  juice ;  from  the  trunk,  which  is 
about  the  thickness  of  a  man's  body,  a  strong  gum 
exudes,  which  serves  instead  of  pitch  for  the  canoes, 
and  as  birdlime  to  catch  the  smaller  birds ;  and  which, 
t)y  tapping,  might  be  produced  in  great  quantities. 
The  tree  is  of  quick  growth,  shoots  again  when  cut 
down,  and  bears  fruit  in  about  four  years.     This  nu- 
tritious food  grows  as  large  as  a  young  child's  head. 
Its  surface  is  rough  like  net-work;  the  skin  is  thin; 
the  core  small ;  the  intermediate  part,  which  is  eaten, 
white,  and  very  like  the  crumb  of  a  new  loaf.  It  is  di- 
vided like  an  apple,  and  the  core  taken  out,  and  then 
roasted  on  the  fire,  or  baked  in  an  oven,  when  its  tastfc 
is  very  similar  to  the  crumb  of  ih^  finest  wheatcn 
bread,  with   a  slight  sweetness.     This  tree  affords 
from  its  bark  tlieir  most  durable  clothing;  the  ivood 


X*. 


i 


(  "  ) 


m- 


is  excellent  for  building,  and  for  canoes,  having  tlie 
singidar  property  of  not  being  affected  by  the  Avorms; 
and  the  lea .es  are  used  as  wrappers  for  dressing  their 
provisions.  When  the  fruit  is  ripe,  they  gather  it  in 
quantities,  and  form  it  into  a  sour  paste  called  mahie, 
which  will  keep  till  the  fruit  is  again  in  season. 
When  gathered  for  this  use,  they  scrape  off  the  out- 
ward rind,  and  lay  it  in  heaps  to  mellow ;  a  deep  pit 
is  then  dug  in  the  ground,  and  carefully  lined  with 
large  leaves;  this  cavity  is  filled  with  the  fruit,  and 
strongly  thatched  down  with  a  ridge  like  a  mushroom 
bed ;  the  whole  is  piessed  close,  and  stones  laid  over 
it :  there  it  ferments  and  settles :  when  the  fermenta- 
tion is  over,  they  open  the  pit,  and  put  up  the  fer- 
mented fruit  in  fresh  leaves,  taking  out  the  core,  and 
storing  it  for  use,  as  we  cover  up  potatoes  for  winter. 
Some,  previous  to  this  process,  cut  out  the  core,  which 
makes  the  colour  whiter,  but  prevents  it  from  keeping 
so  long.  This  tree  continues  bearing  fruit  for  eight 
successive  months  every  year,  in  such  abundance 
that  three  trees  furnish  ample  provision  for  one  man. 
At  this  season  also  of  the  ripe  bread-fmit,  they 
make  a  large  oven  called  oppeeo.  The  chief,  on  this 
occasion,  summons  all  his  tenants  and  dependants,  who 
bring  each  a  certain  quantity  of  the  ripe  fruit,  and 
lodge  it  at  his  house,  to  the  amount  of  fifteen  or 
twenty  hundred  weiglit.  They  dig  a  hole  eight  or 
nine  feet  deep,  paving  it,  and  buihiing  it  up  with  large 
pebbles;  this  they  fill  with  wood,  and  set  it  on  fire; 
when  burnt  out,  and  the  stones  thoroughly  heated, 
they  spread  the  embeis  on  ♦lie  bottom  oi'  the  pit  with 

H  2 


iPWPPP 


!3 


M> 


1      : 


i 


(     78     ) 

lon^  poles :  the  pit  is  illled  with  the  bread-i'rait,  and 
covered  with  stalks  and  leaves  at  the  bottom  and  on 
the  sides,  and  hot  embers  spread  over  them ;  tlie  oven 
is  then  thatched  down  tliickly  with  grass  and  leaves, 
and  the  earth  that  was  dug  out  thrown  over  the  whole. 
After  two  or  three  days  it  is  fit  for  use,  when  they 
make  an  opening,  take  out  as  much  as  they  need,  and 
stop  it  again  close.  This  paste  makes  a  most  nutritious 
sweet  pudding,  and  all  feast  on  it  eagerly.  During 
this  festive  season  they  seldom  quit  the  house,  and 
continue  wrapped  up  in  cloth :  the  use  of  this  food 
for  a  month  makes  them  so  fair  and  fat,  that  they  can 
scarcely  breathe:  the  cfiildren  afterwards  grow 
amazingly.  The  baked  bread-fruit  in  this  state  very 
much,  in  taste,  resembles  gingerbread. 

The  odwhe,  or  yams,  grow  wild  in  the  mountains, 
from  one  to  six  feet  long,  and  of  different  thickness : 
some  will  weigh  as  much  as  thirty  pounds. '  They 
are  very  good  eating;  but  being  procured  at  a  dis- 
tance, and  with  more  trouble,  in  the  bread-fruit  season 
they  are  little  sought  after.     These  also  are  baked. 

There  is  a  variety  of  other  roots  growing  sponta- 
neously, but  seldom  used,  except  in  a  scarcity  of 
bread-fruit,  or  during  any  stay  in  the  mountains; 
when  they  dig  up  and  dress  the  roots  around  them, 
to  avoid  the  trouble  of  carrj'ing  provisions.  As  they 
are  expert  at  killing  birds,  with  which  the  hills 
abound,  and  at  catching  fish,  which  the  lakes 
and  rivulets  furnish  in  plenty,  they  seldom  know 
want;  though  sometimes  they  are  detained  a  con- 
hldcrablc  time  in  search  of  the  sandal  wood,  dies 


I. 


WWt«W"--T 


(     79     ) 

lor  their  clotli,  and  sweet  herbs  and  flowers  for  per- 
fumiog  the  cocoa-nut  oil. 

Of  fruits  they  have  the  evee,  improperly  called 
the  yellow  apple ;  it  is  as  large  as  a  nonpaml,  and 
of  a  bright  golden  hue,  but  oblong,  and  different  in 
smell  and  taste  from  our  apples,  more  resembling  a 
peach  in  flavour,  as  well  as  in  being  a  stone  fruit.  It 
has  been  compared  to  a  pine-apple  or  mango.  It 
grows  on  a  large,  beautifully  spreading  tree,  three  or 
four  m  a  bunch  ;  is  propagated  by  seeds  or  suckers, 
soon  produces  fruit,  and  is  in  season  a  great  part  of 
the  year.  The  bark  also  furnishes  a  transparent  gum, 
like  that  on  the  plum-tree,  called  tapou,  which  they 
use  as  pitch  for  their  canoes. 

Next  to  the  bread-fruit  in  usefulness,  and  almost 
equal  to  it,  is  the  hearee,  or  cocoa-nut,  which  affords 
meat,  drink,  cloth,  and  oil.  The  husks  are  spun 
into  ropes  und  lashings  for  the  canoes,  and  used  for 
calking.  Of  the  leaves  they  make  baskets,  bonnets, 
and  temporary  houses ;  and  of  the  trunk,  fuel. 

The  rataa,  or  chcsnut,  is  different  both  in  size  and 
shape  from  that  of  Europe.  The  fiiiit  is  flattened 
more  as  a  bean,  about  two  inches  and  a  half  across, 
but  much  resembling  a  chesnut  in  taste,  and  is  roast- 
ed like  it. 

Shaddocks,  transplanted  from  tlie  Friendly  Islands 
by  British  navigators,  and  called  by  the  natives  ooroo 
pappaa,  foreign  bread-fruit,  are  in  no  estimation. 

The  European  visitors  likewise  have  added  pine- 
apples, lemons,  limes,  Indian  corn,  tobacco,  ginger, 
&c.  which,  however,  seem  little  valued  by  the  islanders. 


(     80     ) 


I 


If 


They  liave  Meen  diflferent  sorts  of  plantains ;  one 
of  these,  which  is  called  the  faye,  grows  only  on  the 
mountains,  and  differs  from  all  the  other  species ;  the 
stalk  is  of  a  raven,  or  deep  purple  colour,  the  leaves 
larger,  and  of  a  deeper  green.  The  fruit  grows  all 
round  the  top  of  the  stalk,  and  closely  wedged  in  by 
the  side  of  each  other;  when  ripe  it  is  a  reddish 
brown,  and  within,  a  greenish  yellow,  and  smells 
something  like  paint ;  if  cut  young,  it  resembles  and 
smells  like  a  cucumber.  Of  these  they  make  a  pud- 
ding which  tastes  like  gooseberry-fool,  called  popoe 
faye.  The  root  is  as  good  as  yam.  Of  plantains  also 
they  make  a  pudding,  called  tooparro,  mixed  with 
tarro  and  cocoa-nut,  very  like  a  custard. 

The  cocoa-nut  oil  is  made  by  grating  the  full  grown 
kernel  into  a  large  trougli ;  after  a  few  days'  digestion 
the  oil  begins  to  separate,  wliich  they  gently  pour  oil', 
and  mix  with  it  fragrant  herbs,  flowers,  and  sandal 
wood,  leaving  the  whole  to  macerate  three  weeks  or 
a  month,  stirring  the  ingredients  every  day.  When 
it  has  acquired  a  strong  perfume,  the  oil  is  wrung  out, 
and  put  into  bamboos  for  use,  and  called  manoe. 
There  is  a  quicker  method  of  extracting  the  oil  by 
exposing  the  nuts  broken  to  the  sun ;  but  the  oil  thus 
drawn  is  always  rancid. 

In  preparing  a  hog  for  the  table,  they  always  ei- 
ther drown  or  strangle  it :  the  latter  is  usually  pre- 
ferred. If  the  hog  is  large,  they  make  two  or  three 
rounds  of  strong  cord  about  his  neck,  and  with  a  stick 
twist  it  till  the  breath  is  stopped :  they  wet  it  ill 
over,  and,  surrounding  it  \\r]\  dry  leaves  or  grass^, 


M 


I' 


I 

§■■' 


(     81     ) 

KiDge  off  the  hair,  scraping  it  "with  sticks  and  cocoa- 
nut  shells,  and  a  rough  stone,  till  the  skij  is  perfectly 
clean.  With  a  split  bamboo,  or  knife,  they  open  the 
belly,  and  take  out  the  entrails  and  coagulated  blood, 
ivhich  they  divide  into  cocoa-nut  shells  mixed  with 
some  fat  of  the  caul :  to  this  they  put  hot  stones,  and 
make  a  kind  of  black  pudding,  by  way  of  whet,  whilst 
the  hog  is  baking.  The  hog  being  washed  within, 
the  maw  cleaned,  and  the  rest  of  the  entrails,  the  whole 
is  placed  in  the  pit,  or  oven,  resting  on  its  belly,  and 
with  it  bread-fruit,  yams,  tarro,  &c.  It  is  then 
covered  thick  with  plantain  leaves,  hot  embers,  and 
grass,  with  the  earth  which  was  dug  out  heaped  upon 
it  till  ready ;  which,  in  a  hof;  of  a  moderate  size,  re- 
quires at  least  two  hours ;  but  if  the  pig  is  small,  less 
than  half  the  time  will  serve.  The  leaves  are  placed 
so  carefully,  that  not  a  particle  of  earth  reaches  the 
provisions,  either  in  going  in  or  coming  out.  In  the 
same  manner  they  dress  all  their  other  food;  and  they 
like  it  much  cooked  except  their  fish,  which  they 
prefer  raw.  Their  cookery  is  simply  baking  or  broil- 
ing, as  they  have  no  vessel  of  their  own  capable  of 
Ijearing  the  fire.  However,  they  lose  nothing  of  the 
delicacy  of  their  food  in  baking ;  and  fish  so  dressed 
is  preferable  to  being  boiled. 

They  make  three  meals  a  day  when  at  home,  and 
eat  heartily;  and  nothing  pleases  them  more  than  to 
observe  a  stranger  eat  with  an  appetite.  Every  one 
endeavours  to  procure  abundance  for  the  stranger, 
even  though  he  should  go  himself  with  an  appetite 
unsatisfied.    The  greatest  part  of  their  diet  is  vegc- 


(     82     ) 


II 


i        '    ^ 


table,  and  it  does  not  often  fall  to  the  lot  of  inferioi-s 
to  have  a  regular  supply  of  auiutal  food.  Whatever 
the  sea  produces  they  eat,  affirming  that  nothing  un- 
clean can  come  from  the  water. 

Any  place  serves  for  a  dining-room;  they  often 
squat  down  on  the  grass,  or  under  a  shady  tree,  and 
always  eat  separately,  for  fear  of  incommoding  each 
other  with  their  fly-flaps.  Green  leaves  from  the 
nearest  tree  aftbrd  them  a  table-cloth,  and  before 
them  is  a  cocoa-nut  shell  of  fresh  as  well  as  salt 
water. 

The  feathered  tribe  is  here  very  numerous:  be- 
sides the  common  tame  fowl,  the)^  have  wild  ducks, 
paroquets  of  various  kinds  and  cclours,  the  blue  and 
white  heron,  fly-flapper,  woodpecker,  doves,  boobies, 
noddies,  gulls,  peterels,  sand-larks,  plover,  martin, 
men-of-war,  and  tropic  birds,  with  a  multitude  of 
others  unknown  to  us.  The  mountains  produce  a 
great  variety  of  a  larger  and  smaller  size,  for  beauty 
and  for  song;  which  are  never  seen  on  the  low  lands^ 
nor  near  the  sea. 

The  tropic  birds  build  their  nests  in  holes  of  the 
cliffs;  and  as  their  long  feathers  are  held  in  request 
for  their  paries  and  mourning  dresses,  they  procure 
them  in  the  following  dangerous  manner:  from  the 
top  of  the  high  cliff's,  beaten  by  the  waves  beneath,  a 
man  is  lowered  down  by  a  rope,  seated  across  a  stick : 
he  searches  all  the  holes  from  bottom  to  top,  swinging 
from  point  to  point  by  a  staff*  he  holds  in  his  hands, 
and  by  the  'stones  which  project,  or  the  shrubs  whicti 
grow  there.    When  he  finds  a  bird  on  her  nest,  he 

9 


m. 


1 


'^     1    / 


(     83     ) 


eriors 
itever 
igun- 

often 

%  and 

each 


plucks  out  her  tail-feathers,  and  lets  her  fly.  Wlieu 
lie  can  find  no  more  birds,  or  is  tired  of  the  labour, 
he  gives  tlie  signal  to  be  drawn  up.  Dreadful  as  it 
may  appear  to  be  thus  hanging  thirty  or  forty  fathoms 
down,  and  four  times  as  many  from  the  bottom,  few  ac- 
cidents ever  happen ;  though  the  sport  is  often  con- 
tinued many  hours  together. 

They  set  a  peculiar  value  on  the  shining  black 
feathers  of  the  men-of-A<rar  birds,  which  being  birds  of 
passage,  they  watch  their  arrival  at  the  rainy  season ; 
a  float  of  light  wood  is  launched  into  the  water, 
baited  with  a  small  fish ;  as  soon  as  they  observe  the 
bird  approaching,  they  stand  ready  with  a  pole  of 
sixteen  or  eighteen  feet  long  within  reach  of  the  float. 
The  moment  the  bird  darts  at  the  fish  to  seize  it,  they 
strike  at  him  with  the  pole,  and  seldom  fail  of  bring- 
ing him  down :  if  they  miss  their  aim,  the  bird  can- 
not be  again  tempted  to  approach.  The  cock  bird  is 
most  valued,  and  a  large  hog  will  be  sometimes  ex- 
changed for  one. 

Their  fishing-tackle  consists  of  seines,  from  five 
fathoms  to  fifty  in  length,  and  from  one  to  four  or  five 
deep.  Their  hooks  are  made  of  pearl-shells,  though 
they  prefer  iron,  and  form  a  nail  into  an  excellent 
hook.  Our  hooks  were  highly  esteemed  by  them. 
They  have  diflerent  sizes  and  shapes,  for  the  differ- 
ent kinds  of  fish.  Some  made  to  represent  the  flying 
fish,  others  for  putting  on  real  fish,  or  what  other  bait 
the  fish  will  take. 

Quantities  of  fine  rock  fish  are  caught  in  pots.  They 
are  also  expert  at  diving  after  them,  and  the  toiarra^ 


#ei?-^ 


I  ' 


u 


i 


(     8*    ) 

or  hedgehog-fish,  which  they  seldom  catch  in  any 
other  way.  This  fish,  when  pursued,  takes  refuge 
under  the  coral  rocks ;  thither  the  diver  pursues  him, 
and  brings  him  up  with  a  finger  in  each  eye.  They 
sometimes  continue  under  water  an  astonishing  while, 
chasing  the  fish  from  hole  to  hole,  and  rise  with  one 
in  each  hand.  The  weather  must  be  calm  for  good 
sport,  as  the  least  ripple  on  the  water  darkens  the 
bottom.  In  dark  nights  they  employ  torches  to  draw 
the  fish  around  the  canoes,  having  lading  nets  ready 
to  scoop  them  up.  When  the  fish  come  into  shallow 
water  to  spawn,  they  strip  cocoa-nut  leaves  firom  the 
stem,  and,  knotting  them  on  a  line,  sweep  with  them 
the  reefs  and  shoal  places,  till  they  force  them  near 
the  beach ;  when,  with  lade  nets,  or  small  seines,  they 
take  great  quantities. 

Besides  these  methods  of  fishing,  they  use  two  or 
three-pronged  forks  of  toa  wood,  darting  them  at  a  dis- 
tance from  the  beach,  and  when  they  strike  a  fish* 
swim  after  it ;  others,  with  many  prongs,  are  hurled 
amidst  a  shoal  from  their  canoes,  and  sometimes  strike 
two  or  three  fish  at  once. 

Whales  are  seldom  killed,  except  :iow  and  then 
young  ones  which  get  entangled  in  the  reefs,  or  are 
thrown  over  them  by  the  heavy  surf.  When  they 
discover  one  in  tliis  situation,  they  surround  him  with 
their  canoes,  and  thrust  into  him  their  war  spears: 
but  ofien  have  their  canoes  dashed  in  pieces  before 
they  can  despatch  him. 

Their  fish  are  numerous,  of  all  sorts,  sizes  and  eoo 
lours,  common  to  tropical  regions;  and  many  that  are 


(     85     ) 


h 


any 
refuge 
5  him, 
They 
while, 
one 
good 
as  the 
draw 
ready 
lallow 
m  the 
them 
1  near 
they 


peculiar  to  those  seas,  and  for  which  no  English 
names  are  known.  Their  fishing  taci^le  displays  the 
greatest  ingenuity,  and  can  be  only  exceeded  by  their 
art  in  using  it :  in  this  no  nation  can  vie  with  them. 
The  fisherman  builds  his  own  canoe,  makes  his  lines, 
hooks,  and  bait,  and  all  the  necessary  apparatus.  The 
hooks  are  ground  with  coral,  from  pearl-shells,  bones, 
the  tusks  of  boars,  and  sometimes  of  hard  wood;  and  of 
difierent  shapes  and  sizes,  according  to  the  nature 
of  the  fishery.  Some  ire  formed  like  our  artificial 
flies,  and  serve  for  bait  and  hook  togetlier,  and  tiiough 
not  bearded,  «eldom  lose  the  fish  when  hooked :  and 
notwithstanding  the  form  to  us  appears  most  clumsy 
and  rude,  they  will  succeed,  when  we,  with  our  best 
hooks,  cannot. 

The  women  Avho  are  not  of  the  blood  royal,  or  mar- 
ried to  such,  are  forbidden  to  eat  turtle,  whale,  por- 
poise, shark,  albicore,  and  dolphin.  The  turtle  not 
being  caught  in  any  great  plenty,  and  regarded  as  a 
sacred  fish,  is  usually  sent  to  the  chiefs,  and  eaten  at 
the  moral. 

The  shell-fish  are  abundant ;  pearl  and  small  com- 
mon oysters,  crabs,  cray-fish,  cockles,  some  of  an  enor- 
mous size,  conchs,  muscles,  tigers,  winkles  of  various 
kinds,  wilks,  clams,  prawns,  shrimps,  sea-eggs,  and 
shells  of  peculiar  beauty ;  there  are  also  land  crabs, 
but  seldom  eaten.     / 

During  the  rains  they  catch  great  quantities  of  small 
fry  at  the  mouth  of  the  rivei-s :  they  form  a  large  net, 
or  rather  a  vast  bag,  of  the  cocoa-nut  husk  sewed  to- 
gether, with  a  wide  mouth  to  receive  tlie  stream,  which 

I 


II 


(     86     ) 

h  held  open  and  secured  by  stones  to  the  bottom'. 
With  cocoa-nut  leaves  stripped  and  tied  together,  call- 
ed row,  they  sweep  all  before  them  into  the  bag-net, 
and  catch  bushels  at  a  draught.  Sometimes  the  wo- 
men take  each  a  bag-net  and  a  basket,  forming  a  line 
across  the  river,  and  hold  it  to  the  bottom  by  their 
feet,  and  the  mouth  open  with  their  hands ;  and  when 
they  have  filled  their  basket,  go  home  and  dress  them. 
They  seldom  return  empty-handed,  and  the  queen  her- 
self and  her  mother  are  as  often  engaged  in  this  work 
as  any  others. 

They  have  also  the  same  methods  practised  with 
us,  of  running  a  dam  across  tlie  river  where  it  is  shoal, 
and  leaving  only  sluices  open,  where  the  bag-nets  are 
fixed :  they  go  above,  and  plunge  and  beat  the  water, 
to  drive  the  fish  into  the  net ;  though  to  this  they  have 
seldom  recourse  till  the  waters  are  low,  and  the  fish 
become  scarce. 

There  is  a  fish  of  the  conger  eel  kind  which  is  poi- 
sonouSj  and  affects  them  as  sometimes  muscles  do  us  la 
England,  but  in  a  greater  degree,  producing  vast  swell- 
ings in  the  body,  hands,  and  feet,  and  even  depriving 
the  limbs  of  sense  and  motion  :  they  have,  however, 
found  out  a  medicine  which  in  a  few  days  expels  the 
poison.  An  Englishqaan  ate  of  this  fish  without  in- 
convenience, wliilst  a  native  who  devoured  what  was 
left  was  almost  raving  mad,  his  limbs  swollen,  inflamed 
as  in  the  scarlet  fever,  with  excruciating  pain,  and 
bis  eyes  rolling  as  if  they  would  start  from  their 
sockets:  yet,  after  ten  or  twelve  days,  he  recovered, 
by  a  preparation  of  herbs  ministered  by  a  priest  with 


I,, 


Jotloin; 
[r,  call- 
fag-net, 
|he  wo- 
a  line 
their 
^1  wlien 
tliem. 
'u  her- 
8  work 

d  with 
i  shoal, 
ets  are 
water, 
y  have 
he  fish 

is  poi- 
9  us  in 
swell- 
driving 
Jfever, 
;ls  the 
lut  io- 
t  was 
lamed 
))  and 
their 
ered, 
with 


(     87     ) 

many  prayei-s.  This  kind  of  fish  is  about  twenty 
inches  long,  the  fins  edged  with  green,  the  skin  of  a 
brownish  hue,  and  called  by  the  natives  puhhe,  pirre, 
Towte.  It  is  caught  about  the  reefs,  and  some  are  not 
poisonous,  though  they  know  not  certainly  how  to  dis- 
tinguish the  good  from  the  bad.  There  is  also  a  small  red 
crab,  no  bigger  than  a  horse-bean,  so  very  deleterious, 
that  it  always  kills  the  person  who  eats  it.  The 
hootdo,  like  our  coculus  indicus,  is  sometimes  used 
by  them  to  intoxicate  and  poison  the  fish ;  but  this 
never  injures  the  person  who  feeds  upon  them. 

Their  trees  exhibit  the  greatest  beauty  and  variety. 
The  teayre  has  milk-white  flower8,ofa  delicate  smell, 
something  like  jasmine ;  with  which  they  adorn  their 
hair,  being  very  fond  of  perfumes.  This  tree  is  large, 
and  covered  with  flowers ;  it  grows  in  the  low  lands, 
and  is  cultivated  with  great  care.  The  booa  grows 
on  the  mountains ;  it  bears  a  light  yellow  flower  of 
singular  beauty  and  scent,  with  which  the  women  form 
bandeaus  for  their  hair.  They  have  many  other 
flowers  of  less  fragrance.  The  tobacco  planted  by 
Captain  Cook  is  spread  over  the  island,  the  natives 
being  particularly  fond  of  the  red  blossom  it  bears, 
and  also  of  smoking  it  when  prepared.  They  have  a 
variety  of  sweet  herbs  which  they  employ  in  perfu- 
ming their  cloth  and  oil;  one  sort  a  kind  of  mint,  they 
call  mabooa.  The  tomanoo  nuts  aflbrd  also  a  perfume 
when  pounded ;  they  mix  them  with  water,  and  steep 
their  cloth  in  it,  and  for  many  days  it  retains  a  powerful 
scent,  which,  by  degrees,  is  lost. 

Tiie  youte,  called  moruspapyrifera,  cloth-plant,  or 


IP 


^>^ 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


11.25 


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1^  IM 

2.2 


I.I     f  "^  i^ 


U   11.6 


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PhotogiBphic 
Sdences 


>i.ucr- 


Htion 


33  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


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(      88     ) 

Chinese  paper  mulbeny,  of  "which  tlicre  are  two  kinds, 
one  called  myerre,  (he  other  poorow.  This  they  care- 
fully cultivate  and  preserve.  The  plants  of  this  tree 
shoot  up  like  osiers,  and  when  ten  or  twelve  feet  iu 
height,  and  three  inches  in  circumference,  they  are  cut 
down  and  carefully  stripped  of  their  bark :  of  this  their 
finest  white  cloth  is  made.  The  rind  being  taken  off, 
is  carried  to  the  water,  the  cuticle  scraped  off  care- 
fully, and  well  washed,  till  the  sap  and  slime  are  sepa- 
rated from  it ;  they  wrap  this  in  plantain-leaves,  and 
leave  it  for  three  days  to  digest,  by  which  time  it  be- 
comes clammy  and  fit  for  working  into  cloth.  The 
bark  is  next  spread  of  a  regular  thickness  on  the  beam 
where  it  is  to  be  beaten,  about  eight  inches  wide,  and 
they  begin  with  the  grooved  beetle  *o  spread  it  out  to 
a  proper  breadth  and  equal  thickness  in  every  part.  A 
number  of  plantain-leaves  are  laid  on  the  ground,  and  on 
these  the  cloth  is  spread  to  bleach  in  the  early  morn- 
ing dew  for  several  days,  removing  it  as  the  sun 
grows  high :  when  perfectly  bleached,  it  is  dried,  and 
rolled  up  in  bundles  for  use.  This  cloth  is  called 
hooboo  and  parrawye  :  if  they  wish  it  to  be  clouded, 
they  break  the  outer  bark  with  a  stone,  and  wrap  the 
sticks  in  leaves  for  three  or  four  days  before  they 
bark  them. 

They  mix  also  the  inner  bark  of  the  tender  branches 
of  the  bread-fruit  tree  with  the  cloth-plant,  and  prepare 
it  in  the  same  manner.  If  a  chief,  or  man  of  pro- 
perty, has  cloth  to  be  made,  he  sends  the  mulberry- 
plants  in  bundles  to  his  tenants,  and  they  mix  them 
with  the  bread-fruit,  and  biing  home  the  cloth  when 


(    89    ) 


i 
I 


prepared.  If  he  needs  a  piece  of  very  large  dimen- 
sions, he  tells  them  when  he  shall  set  about  it :  on  this 
day  the  women  of  the  district  assemble  with  their  bee- 
tles, each  bringing  a  quantity  of  raaterjals;  and  the 
ground  being  covered  with  plantain-leaves,  they  place 
their  work  in  a  line,  and  set  to  it  all  together,  beating 
time  to  a  song  given  out  by  one  of  their  principal 
helpers :  and  when  they  strike  up,  make  k  vast  noise, 
two  hundred  sometimes  being  employed  on  one  piece 
of  cloth  four  fathoms  wide,  and  forty  fathoms  long. 

They  make  their  cloth  of  a  variety  of  colours; 
black,  white,  and  several  shades  of  crimson,  yellow, 
gray,  and  brown.  The  black  is  died  with  the  sap  of 
the  mountain-plantain,  or  under  the  roots  of  such 
cocoa-nut  trees  as  grow  in  wet  and  swampy  grounds, 
where  they  lay  the  cloth  to  soak  for  a  day  or  two, 
then  diy  it,  repeating  the  process  till  it  becomes  a  deep 
black,  when  it  is  washed  in  salt  water  to  fix  the  co- 
lour. This  is  called  oowery.  The  brown  is  died 
or  tanned  with  the  bark  of  several  trees,  especially 
the  toa,  which  gives  a  fine  bright  colour,  heightened 
by  the  sun.  The  bark  is  scraped  with  a  shell,  and 
after  lying  to  infuse  in  water,  and  wrung  out,  the  cloth 
is  dipped  in  the  infusion,  and  spread  in  the  sun  to  dry, 
repeating  the  operation  till  it  becomes  a  fine  bright 
brown,  called  heere  and  powheere.  The  yellow  is  ex- 
tracted from  turmeric  or  reya,  which  grows  here  in  abun- 
dance, as  well  as  of  poohey,  ava,  or  ginger.  The  gray 
is  the  natural  colour  of  the  cloth  when  unbleached; 
after  being  half  worn  it  may  be  died  brown,  and  lined 

12 


(    90     ) 

with  white,  by  pastingtwo  cloths  together ;  this  is  called 
hopaa.  The  red  is  produced  from  the  mattde  berry. 
"When  the  brown  cloth  is  worn  out  they  bark  the 
brandies  of  the  bread-fruit,  and  mix  the  old  brown 
cloth  with  the  new  bark,  beating  them  together,  which 
makes  a  mottled  piece  :  this  they  dip  in  a  light  yel- 
low prepared  from  the  root  of  a  shrub  called  nono, 
which  gives  it  a  beautiful  appearance ;  they  line  it 
also  with  white,  and  infusing  perfumes  in  the  yellow 
die,  call  the  cloth  opotta  potta:  they  have  yet 
another  kind  of  cloth  called  marra,  made  of  the  mul- 
berry bark,  half  beaten :  this  consists  of  several  layers 
of  irregular  thickness,  for  upper  garments.  At  this 
the  arreoies  are  peculiarly  expert,  though  it  is  reck- 
oned women's  wo  rk,  and  requires  skill  and  nicety  in 
the  joining,  to  prevent  the  part  pasted  on  from  stiffen- 
ing the  cloth;  this  they  paint  with  a  beautiful  crim- 
son, called  mattde,  extracted  from  a  berry  growing 
on  a  tree  of  the  same  name.  The  expressed  juice  of 
the  berry  they  mix  witli  the  leaves  of  another  tree 
ciilled  tow,  and  imprint  sprigs  and  leaves  on  the  cloth 
by  wetting  them  with  this  juice,  and  impressing  thena 
on  the  cloth  according  to  their  fancy.  The  berries 
of  the  mattde  are  brown  when  ripe,  of  the  size  of  a 
sloe ;  and  being  gathered,  they  nip  them  between  the 
thumb  and  linger,  expressing  a  yellow  drop  or  two, 
which  they  sprinkle  on  the  leaf  of  the  tow,  by  hitting 
one  hand  against  the  other :  two  or  three  drops  suffice 
for  a  leaf.  When  the  berries  are  all  nipped,  and  the 
reaves  wetted,  they  are  worked  with  the  hands  io  a 


(     91     ) 

wooden  tray,  sprinkling  water  on  them  till  a  beautiful 
crimson  colour  begins  to  appear,  when  they  express 
the  die  from  the  leaves,  and  throw  them  away.  They 
lay  on  the  colour  with  a  small  brush  of  stringy  fibres, 
made  of  a  rush  called  mooo,  like  a  camel's  hair 
pencil.  '-  .  •; 

There  are  other  trees  from  which  cloth  is  made, 
but  the  process  is  the  same  in  all.  Sometimes  they 
paste  together  pieces  of  different  colours,  cut  into  cd- 
rious  shapes,  in  which  display  of  taste  the  arreoies 
excel. 

The  women,  with  their  feminine  male  associates, 
make  the  cloth ;  the  men  provide  the  materials.  The 
beam  on  which  the  bark  is  spread  is  about  twelve 
feet  long,  made  of  a  hard  wood  called  marra,  squared 
to  six  or  eight  inches,  and  finely  smoothed  on  the 
upper  side.  The  beetles  are  formed  of  toa,  about 
fourteen  inches  long,  and  two  and  a  half  square.  The 
sides  are  grooved  of  four  different  sizes,  as  the  cloth 
is  to  be  made  of  n  finer  or  coarser  thread ;  the  handle 
is  round ;  the  beetle  is  called  ayey :  the  beam  tdoot- 
dooa. 

The  variety  of  their  trees  and  shrubs  are  very  nu- 
merous, and,  by  the  ingenious  natives,  used  for  pur- 
poses to  which  they  are  particularly  adapted;  some 
are  so  hard  as  soon  to  spoil  the  best  sxe,  and  yet  formed 
into  different  implements,  and  curiously  wrought  by 
their  own  tools  of  stone  and  bone. 

The  bamboo,  called  ohhe,  is  a  most  useful  tree,  and 
grows  in  abundance  on  the  hills,  rising  to  the  height 
of  sixty  feet,  and  of  considerable  thickness,  though 


(    02    ) 


not  very  strong.  They  use  them,  when  full  grown, 
for  vessels  to  hold  their  oil,  plain  or  perfumed,  salt 
water,  and  any  other  liquids.  They  make  good  fences 
for  houses :  split  fine,  they  serve  for  carving  knives ; 
are  used  for  fishing-rods,  for  hooking  down  the  bread- 
fruit, for  cases,  quivers  for  arrows,  flutes,  and  a  va- 
riety of  other  things.  Of  the  smaller  sort  their  ar- 
rows are  made. 

The  oporro,  or  red  Chili  pepper,  like  the  tobacco, 
is  spread  over  the  island. 

Fwharra.  The  prickly  palm.  The  leaves  are  six 
feet  long,  and  four  inches  broad,  with  sharp  prickles 
on  the  edges,  and  down  the  rib  in  the  middle.  This 
forms  their  thatch,  the  leaves  lapping  over  each  other, 
and  sewed  on  the  reed  with  the  stem  of  a  cocoa-nut 
leaf.  The  sharpened  rib  of  a  hog  supplies  the  place 
of  our  thatcher's  needle.  The  blossom,  which  is  of  a 
bulT  colour,  and  full  of  farina,  highly  perfumed,  is  a 
chief  ingredient  in  scenting  the  cocoa-nut  oil:  the 
outside  circle  of  wood  is  very  hard,  and  furnishes 
points  for  their  javelins;  the  inside  is  soft  and  spongy. 
The  roots  rise  above  ground,  and  support  the  stem 
like  shores,  standing  thick  round  the  bottom.  The 
leaves  furnish  matting  for  the  canoes,  and  mats  for 
their  heivas;  some  of  the  latter  are  ten  or  twelve 
fathoms  long,  and  two  fathoms  wide. 

Yava  is  a  shrub,  whose  root  is  peppery  and  hot :  as 
it  furnishes  their  only  intoxicating  beverage,  it  is  cul- 
tivated with  great  care.  The  preparation  is  disgust- 
ing: several  women  or  men  have  each  a  portion 
given  them  to  chew  of  the  stem  and  root  together, 


(     93     ) 

•wliich,  wliCQ  masticated,  they  spit  into  a  bowl,  into 
wliich  some  of  the  leaves  of  the  plant  are  finely  bro* 
ken  :  they  add  water  or  cocoa-nut  liquor;  the  whole 
is  well  stirred,  and  soon  ferments,  when  it  is  strained 
or  wrung  out  in  the  moo  grass,  or  cocoa-nut  fibres, 
and  drank  in  cups  of  folded  leaves.  It  is  highly  in- 
toxicating, and  seems  for  a  while  to  deprive  them  of 
the  use  of  their  limbs :  they  lie  down  and  sleep  till  the 
effects  are  passed  off,  and  during  the  time  have  their 
limbs  chafed  with  their  women's  hands.  A  gill  of  the 
yava  is  a  sufficient  dose  for  a  man.  When  they  drink 
it,  they  ahvays  eat  something  afterwards,  and  fre- 
quently fall  asleep  with  the  provisions  in  their 
mouths;  when  drank  after  a  hearty  meal  it  produces 
but  little  effect.  After  some  continuance  of  yava- 
drinking,  the  skin  begins  to  be  covered  with  a  whitish 
scurf,  like  the  leprosy,  which  is  regarded  as  a  badge 
of  nobility :  the  eyes  grow  red  and  inflamed ;  and  the 
soles  of  the  feet  parched  and  cracked  into  deep  chaps. 
On  the  discontinuance  of  the  practice,  however,  the 
skin  soon  becomes  smooth  and  clean,  and  they  grow 
fat,  though  few  are  found  who  deny  themselves  the  use 
of  it.  This  vice  is  confined  mostly  to  the  chiefs  and 
their  followers;  the  common  people  can  seldom  pro- 
cure such  an  indulgence. 

Toe,  or  sugar-cane,  grows  here  spontaneously,  of  a 
size  equal  to  any  in  either  Indies,  and  if  cultivated, 
would  be  much  larger  and  richer;  but  the  natives 
make  very  little  use  of  it,  except  to  chew  a  piece 
as  they  are  travelling;  and  when  it  gets  high,  they 
often  set  it  on  fire  to  clear  the  land. 


,*>,. 


(     94     ) 


Hoc  erro  toomo,  the  cabbage-tree,  grows  in  the 
mountains,  but  to  no  great  size.  The  natives  seldom 
cat  it.  The  leaves  resemble  fern,  and  form  a  circle 
round  the  top  of  the  tree,  the  cabbage  rising  in  the 
middle.  The  tree  is  about  thirty  feet  high ;  the  bark 
rough,  and  hanging  down  like  the  scales  of  a  fish 
from  top  to  bottom. 

Among  the  herbs  there  is  a  kind  of  cresses  which 
furnishes  an  agreeable  salad.  Badishes,  calliloo, 
and  all  our  culinary  vegetables,  are  now  cultivated ; 
but  the  Otaheiteans  are  partial  to  their  own  pro- 
duce, and  little  relish  what  has  been  carried  to  them, 
regarding  them  as  curiosities,  rather  than  of  any 
utility. 

Their  canoes  are  of  different  sizes :  they  are  nar- 
row, and  have  outriggers,  or  are  doubled  by  lashing 
two  together.  The  war  canoes  are  always  double, 
from  sixty  to  ninety  feet  long,  about  three  feet  wide, 
and  six  in  depth:  the  stern  rises  from  twelve  to 
twenty-four  feet  high.  They  are  strongly  secured 
by  cross  pieces,  firmly  bound,  and  extending  over 
both  sides,  being  fifteen  or  twenty  feet  in  length.  The 
canoes  themselves  are  from  four  to  six  feet  asunder? 
on  these  a  stage  is  erected  for  the  warriors :  in  the 
stage  there  are  scuttle-holes  for  paddling.  Each 
canoe  is  paddled  by  sixty  or  a  hundred  men ;  and  tlie 
largest  capable  of  carrying  three  hundred  persons. 
On  the  forepart,  a  breast-work  of  plank  is  raised  about 
four  feet  high ;  at  this  the  spearmen  are  posted ;  be- 
hind them  the  slingers,  with  piles  or  baskets  of 
stones;  and  every  pad  die  v  has  this  weapon.     Their 


♦  (    95    ) 

attacks  are  made  with  great  fury,  rimning  on  boar<t 
their  adversary,  and  sparing  none  but  those  who  at- 
tend the  lashings.  The  vanquished  can  only  save 
tlieir  lives  by  jumping  into  the  sea,  and  swimming  to 
the  canoes  not  closely  engaged.  The  canoe  taken,  ic 
carried  off  by  the  conquerors  in  triumph.  Such  was 
the  fate  of  great  part  of  Otoo's  fleet,  the  present  Po- 
marre,  soon  after  Cook  left  the  island,  and  the  loss 
hath  never  since  been  repaired ;  there  are  not,  at  pre- 
sent, five  large  war  canoes  at  Otaheite, 

The  war  canoes  difffer  from  the  common  ones  in 
construction,  having  high  bows,  on  which  are  carved 
rude  images  of  men ;  and  their  sterns  run  up  tapering, 
sometimes  to  twenty-four  feet,  and  ornamented  with  the 
like  figures :  the  bottom  is  sharp ;  the  sides  rounding 
in  towards  the  top  in  the  midship  frame,  like  the 
print  of  a  spade  on  a  pack  of  cards.  They  are  built 
of  short  pieces  about  six  feet  each,  except  the  keel, 
which  seldom  exceeds  three  pieces,  of  twenty  or 
thirty  feet  long,  and  sometimes  is  formed  of  two  only. 
The  short  pieces  are  lashed  together  securely  with 
sinnets  made  of  cocoa-nut  fibres;  the  seams  are 
calked  with  the  same,  and  payed  with  the  bread-fruit 
gum ;  but  a  heavy  sea  opens  the  seams,  and  makes 
them  leaky ;  and  they  have  no  method  of  clearing  the 
water  but  by  bailing  with  scoops,  so  that  five  or  six 
hands  are  thus  constantly  employed  at  sea ;  and  in 
port  they  are  hauled  up  on  dry  ground,  to  prevent 
their  sinking.  The  bread-fruit  tree  plank  is  prefer- 
red for  durability;  for  though  not  a   close-grained 


(    8b    ) 


wood,  tlie  salt-water  worms  will  not  touch  it,  a  pr*)- 
perty  which  few  others  of  their  woods  possess. 

In  building  the  canoes,  they  use  fire  to  burn  out 
the  inside  of  tlie  tree,  and  smooth  the  sides  with  coral 
and  sand;  but  those  who  have  iron  tools  prefer  the 
method  of  cutting  them  into  shape,  and  hollow,  as  far 
more  expeditious.  They  prepare  their  pitch  for  pay- 
ing the  seams,  by  wrapping  the  gum  of  the  bread- 
fruit tree  round  candle-nuts  stuck  on  skewers  of  co- 
coa-nut leaf  ribs :  these  being  lighted,  the  pitch  drops 
into  a  tray  of  water,  and  squeezing  out  the  aqueous 
particles,  they  spread  it  on  the  plank  edge,  and  lay 
the  cocoa-nut  husk  beaten  fine  over  it;  then  smear  it 
with  pitch,  and  fit  on  the  next  plank,  pressing  it  pow- 
erfully with  ropes  and  levers,  and  securing  it  in  its 
place  with  lashings. 

The  war  canoes,  and  those  sacred  to  the  Eatooa, 
are  built  by  a  general  levy  :  the  chief  issues  his  or- 
ders to  the  toAvas,  they  to  the  ratirras,  who  call  upoi> 
their  tenants,  the  manahoune,  for  hogs,  cloth,  oil,  &c. 
to  support  the  carpenters  who  are  sent  to  the  work. 
They  first  examine  the  hills,  and  pitch  on  the  proper 
timbers :  the  ratirra  on  whose  land  it  is  found,  sends 
men  to  cut  it  down,  and  hew  it  in  the  rough,  under  the 
carpenters'  direction,  that  it  may  be  the  easier  re- 
moved, as  it  is  sometimes  at  a  considerable  distance. 
When  the  timbers  are  collected,  and  laid  under  the 
shed  where  the  canoe  is  to  be  built,  a  feast  is  made 
to  engage  the  favourable  assistance  of  the  Eatooa; 
and  being  very  acceptable  to  the  workmen,  they  hold 


ft 


C  o»  > 

one  before  the  tree  is  cut  down,  another  at  the  com- 
meucemeot  of  the  building,  and  on  making  fast  every 
course.  When  the  first  strake  or  bottom  is  completed, 
there  is  a  great  entertainment  and  offering,  and  so  on 
till  the  whole  is  finished,  when  the  festivity  is  great- 
est, and  the  canoe  for  the  Eatooa  dressed  out  with 
cloth,  breastplates,  and  red  feathers,  and  a  human 
victim  is  offered.     The  offerings  for  the  war  canoes 
are  only  hogs,  &c.  which  are  brought  to  the  moral  of 
the  chief  in  whose  district   it  is  built;   there  the 
priests  strangle  them  as  usual,  and  clean  them,  smear- 
ing them  over  with  their  own  blood,  and  placing  them 
on  the  swhatta,  or  altar,  with  young  plantain-trees, 
and  long  prayers :  the  entrails  and  guts  are  cleaned 
and  eaten  at  the  moral.     Sometimes  the  hogs  are 
dressed  before  they  are  offered  on  the  altar;  there 
they  are  left  to  putrefy,  or  be  eaten  by  birds  which 
frequent  these  places;    the  heron  especially,    and 
the  woodpecker.     These  birds  are  respected  as  sa- 
cred, and  never  killed,  as  it  is  supposed  the  deity 
descends  in  them,  when  he  comes  to  the  morai  to  in- 
spire the  priest,  and  give  an  answer  to  their  prayers. 
The  canoe  offered  to  the  Eatooa,  finely  dressed,  is 
drawn  up  to  the  morai  with  all  the  sacrifices  and  ob- 
lations ;  there  the  eye  of  the  dead  victim  is  first  of- 
fered to  the  king,  with  the  plantain  and  prayers,  and 
the  body  interred  in  the  morai.    The  hogs  are  killed 
and  offered  as  before,  and  the  priests  take  the  cloth 
and  decorations,  which  are  presented  to  the  youqg 
king.  ..* 


(     88     ) 

Considepug  the  greatness  of  the  work,  and  th« 
beauty  of  tlie  execution,  it  is  astonishing  how,  with- 
out  the  knowledge  of  iron,  without  rule  or  compass, 
with  a  stone  addice  only,  the  leg  or  arm  bone  of  a  man 
sharpened  for  the  purpose  of  chisel,  gouge,  and  gim- 
blet,  with  coral  only  and  saiid,  they  can  carve  so 
neatly,  and  finish  so  smoothly;  our  most  ingenious 
workman  could  not  exceed  them.  To  cut  with  such 
instruments,  out  of  the  hardest  and  most  solid  wood 
to  form  planks,  not  more  than  tA^o  out  of  a  tree, 
and  build  vessels  capable  of  carrying  three  hundred 
persons,  must  require  such  endless  labour  and  perse- 
verance, as  makes  it  wonderful  how  they  should  ever 
be  finished. 

The  war  canoes  differ  in  construction,  as  well  as 
size,  from  the  fishing  and  travelling  canoes ;  these  lat- 
ter being  low  for  paddling,  flat-sided,  and  consisting 
commonly  of  but  one  broad  plank  fixed  on  the  tree 
hollowed  out,  with  a  raised  stern.  On  the  bow  a 
plank  projects  about  six  or  eight  feet,  on  which  a 
platform  is  laid,  and  a  travelling  house  erected,  which 
can  be  carried  on  shore  and  serve  for  a  tempo- 
rary abode :  sometimes  only  an  awning  is  spread,  and 
here  the  passengers,  or  the  persons  of  most  dignity, 
are  seated.  The  sterns  arc  broad,  and,  according  to 
the  nobility  of  the  owner,  raised  and  ornamented, 
some  to  fourteen  feet  high,  of  carved  work,  represent- 
ing men  supporting  each  other  on  their  hands,  tier 
upon  tier,  and  surmounted  by  a  piece  of  carved  work, 
of  three  or  four  feet  round,  and  hollow,  something 


11 
a 
r 


{     09    ) 

like  a  Gothic  tower.  These,  according  to  their  bulk, 
are  paddled  by  from  four  to  twenty  men,  and  can  be 
rowed  single,  or  made  double,  as  occasion  requires. 

Before  the  Duff  took  her  final  leave  of  Otaheite, 
Mr.  W.  Wilson  made  the  tour  of  the  isknd,  for  the 
purpose  of  ascertaining  its  population ;  to  accomplish 
which,  he  adopted  a  mode  suggested  by  one  of  the 
natives  who  resided  in  the  district  of  Wliyripoo,  and 
who  said,  that  in  Whyripoo  there  were  four  mattey- 
nas,  and  to  each  matteyna  there  were  ten  tees ;  and  by 
these  he  estimated  the  number  of  men,  womeiv  and 
children,  to  be  about  two  hundred  and  fifty.  Being 
desired  to  explain  wl^at  a  matteyna  was,  and  what 
was  a  tee,  the  former,  he  said,  was  a  principal  house, 
distinguished  either  by  a  degree  of  rank  in  its  ancient 
or  present  owner,  or  by  a  portion  of  land  being  attach- 
ed to  it;  and  sometimes  on  account  of  its  central 
situation  to  a  few  other  houses ;  that  the  matteyna 
sets  up  a  tee  (or  image)  at  the  morai,  which  entitles 
it  to  the  liberty  of  worshipping  there ;  and  the  other 
houses  in  the  department  of  the  matteyna  claim  a 
part  in  the  same  privilege,  and  are  thence  called  tees : 
that  in  some  matteyuas  there  are  eight  or  nine  persons 
in  the  family,  in  others  but  two  or  three ;  and  that  it 
frequently  happens,  that  a  matteyna  or  a  tee  is  total- 
ly deserted.  Therefore,  from  this  account,  and  what 
was  seen  of  the  thin  population,  six  persons  were 
allowed  to  each  matteyna,  and  the  same  to  a  tee.  By 
this  mode  of  calculation,  after  journeying  through  all 
the  districts,  the  number  of  persons  upon  the  whole 
island  was  estimated  at  16,050, 


(     100    ) 

In  making  this  survey  an  opportunity  was  afforded 
to  show,  that  the  natives  are  sensible  of  the  advan- 
tages they  derive  from  our  iron  tools.  Mr.  Wilson 
asked  one  of  them  for  a  stone  hatchet,  which  will 
soon  be  a  curiosity  to  themselves;  but  they  had  none : 
also  how  long  it  took  tliem  to  build  a  canoe  with  iron 
tools ;  they  answered,  about  one  moon.  He  asked, 
how  long  they  formerly  were  doing  it  i^rith  their  stone 
hatchets :  at  this  they  laughed  heartily,  and  counted  ten 
moons. 

On  their  way  they  called  to  see  the  body  of  Ore* 
piah,  preserved  in  a  tupapow ;  who  had  not  been  many 
months  dead,  and  was  now  in  a  perfectly  dry  state. — 
The  man  to  whom  the  performance  of  this  operation 
was  intrusted,  came  and  asked  if  they  would  like  to 
see  the  body  unshrouded ;  for,  as  it  lay,  nothing  could 
be  seen  but  the  feet  Answering  in  the  affirmative,  he 
drew  it  out  upon  the  uncovered  stage,  and  took  seve* 
ral  wrappers  of  cloth  off  it ;  and,  laughing  all  the  while, 
placed  the  coi'pse  in  a  sitting  posture.  The  body 
had  been  opened,  but  the  skin  everywhere  else  was 
unbroken,  and,  adhering  close  to  the  bones,  it  appear- 
ed like  a  skeleton  covered  with  oil-cloth.  It  had  lit- 
tle or  no  smell,  and  would,  notwithstanding  the  heat  of 
the  climate,  remain  so  preserved  a  considerable  time. 
The  method  they  take  for  this  is,  to  clear  the  body 
of  the  entrails,  brain,  &c. ;  then  washing  it  well,  they 
rub  it  daily  outside  and  in  with  cocoa-nut  oil,  till  the 
flesh  is  quite  dried  up :  after  whicli  they  leave  it  to 
the  all-destroying  hand  of  Time.  This  tupapow  was 
constructed    by  driving  four  long  stakes  into   the 


\ 


(     101     ) 


4   t 


ground,  about  six  feet  asunder,  lengthwise,  and  four 
in  breadth ;  besides  these,  two  others,  not  so  long  by 
three  feet,  are  driven  on  a  line,  and  six  feet  from  the 
former  four :  a  stage  is  then  made  at  the  height  of  the 
shortest  two,  and  the  corpse  being  laid  at  one  end,  a 
thatched  roof  is  raised  upon  the  four  highest  stakes, 
to  shelter  it  from  the  rain :  the  vacant  part  of  the  stage 
is  to  pull  it  upon,  either  for  rubbing  with  the  oil,  or 
exhibiting  it  to  the  friends  and  relations  of  the  deceas- 
ed. On  the  adjoining  trees,  plantains  and  bread- 
fruit hung  for  the  use  of  the  dead.  Being  asked  where 
they  thought  his  spirit,  or  thinking  part,  had  gone  ? 
At  this  they  smiled,  and  said,  "  Harre  po,"  that  is, 
^'  Gone  to  the  night." 

'  In  this  journey  they  saw  the  great  moral  of  Oberea, 
which  is  an  enormous  pile  of  stone-work,  in  form  of  a 
pyramid,  on  a  parallelogram  area ;  it  has  a  flight  of  tea 
steps  quite  round,  the  first  of  which,  from  the  ground, 
is  six  feet  high,  the  rest  about  five  feet;  it  is  in  length, 
at  the  base,  two  hundred  and  seventy  feet,  width  at 
ditto  ninety-four  feet ;  at  the  top  it  is  one  hundred  and 
eighty  feet  long,  and  about  six  wide :  the  steps  are  com- 
posed partly  of  regular  rows  of  squared  coral  stones 
about  eighteen  inches  high,  and  partly  with  bluish- 
coloured  pebble  stones,  nearly  round,  of  a  hard 
texture,  all  about  six  inches  diameter,  and  in  their 
natural  unhewn  state :  this  is  the  outside.  The  in- 
side, that  is  to  say,  what  composes  the  solid  mass,  (for 
it  has  no  hollow  space,)  is  formed  of  stones  c^  va- 
rious kinds  and  shapes.  It  is  a  won'lerful  structure; 
and  must  have  cost  them  immense  time  and  pains  to 

K2 


(    102    ) 

briog  such  a  quautity  of  stones  together,  and  par- 
ticularly  to  square  the  coral  of  the  steps  ivith  the 
tools  they  had  when  it  was  raised ;  for  it  was  before 
iron  came  among  them :  and  as  they  were  ignorant 
of  mortar,  or  cement,  it  required  all  the  care  they 
have  taken  to  fit  the  stones  regularly  to  each  other, 
that  it  might  stand. 

They  were  also  shown  the  morai  in  which  the  na- 
tives said  the  ark  of  the  Eatooa  was  deposited :  it  is 
erected  on  level  ground,  enclosed  with  a  square 
wooden  fence,  each  side  of  which  may  measure  thirty 
or  forty  yards.  About  one  half  of  the  platform  next 
the  interior  side  of  the  square  is  paved,  and  on  this 
pavement,  nearly  in  the  middle,  there  stands  an  altar 
upon  sixteen  wooden  pillars,  each  eight  feet  high ;  it  , 
is  forty  feet  long  and  seven  feet  wide ;  on  the  top  of 
the  pillars  the  platform  for  the  offerings  is  laid,  with 
thick  matting  upon  it,  which,  overhanging  each  side, 
forms  a  deep  fringe  all  around  it.  Upon  this  matting 
are  offerings  of  whole  hogs,  turtle,  large  fish,  plan-  « 
tain?,  young  cocoa-nuts,  &c. ;  the  whole  in  a  state 
of  putrefaction,  which  sends  an  offensive  smell  all 
round  the  place.  A  large  space  on  one  side  of  the 
fence  was  broken  down,  and  a  heap  of  rough  stones 
laid  in  the  gap ;  upon  these  stones,  and  in  a  line  with 
the  fence,  were  placed  what  they  call  tees;  these 
were  boards  from  six  to  seven  feet  high,  cut  into 
various  shapes. 

In  the  month  of  May  the  Duff  resumed  her  voyage  to 
the  Friendly  Islands  and  Marquesas,  to  leave  the  fol- 
lowing Missionaries  who  were  desirous  of  settling  on 


t 


(    103    ) 

ToDgataboo,  viz.  Daniel  Bowell,  Benjamin  Broomhall, 
John  Buchanan,  James  Cooper,  Samuel  Harper,  Seth 
Kelso,  William  Shelley,  George  Veeson,  James  Wil- 
kinson, and  James  Gaulton;  and  John  Harris  and 
William  Crook  to  the  Marquesas.  The  DufT  having 
left  the  Missionaries  on  the  several  islands,  returned 
again  to  Otaheite,  after  an  absence  of  six  weeks,  bring- 
ing back  Brother  Harris,  who  declined  settling  on  the 
Marquesas,  owing  to  some  insults  he  had  received 
from  the  natives :  Brother  Crook  remained  alone. 
The  captain  finding  the  deportment  of  the  Otaheiteans 
highly  satisfactory,  and  the  Missionaries  comfortably 
situated ;  the  letters  and  journals  were  delivered ;  and 
after  a  short  stay  for  an  increase  of  provisions  and 
water,  the  Duff  sailed,  on  the  4th  of  August,  on  her 
homeward  voy  age,  via  China,  &c. ;  the  ship  having 
been  chartered  by  the  East-India  Company  to  carry 
a  cargo  from  thence.  Many  thanks  are  certainly  due 
by  the  Missionaries  to  Captain  Wilson  and  officers, 
for  their  attention  and  polite  behaviour,  and  rendering 
them  as  comfortable  as  the  con  vjoiences  of  a  ship  in 
such  a  long  voyage  could  possibly  admit.  The  ship's 
company,  and  Missionaries,  enjoyed  the  best  health 
during  the  whole  of  the  voyage,  excepting  one  or  two 
being  partially  indisposed. 


y 


,i, 


(    104    ) 


CHAPTER  IV. 


Employment  of  the  Missionaries.^— Commence  a  large  building 
on  the  European  plan.—- The  writer  and  another  Missionary 
make  a  tour  round  the  large  Peninsula.— The  imposture  of 
one  of  their  Priests  detected  and  exposed. 


1  HE  writer  will  now  proceed  to  notice  the  pursuits 
and  various  occupations  of  the  Missionaries  during 
their  stey  on  the  island ;  and  the  providence  which 
necessitated  them  to  leave  it,  and  their  voyage  to 
INTew  South  Wales. 

After  the  departure  of  the  DufF,  the  house  which 
was  appropriated  by  the  natives  for  the  residence  of 
the  Missionaries,  it  was  thought  advisable  to  fit  up, 
as  a  temporary  dwelling  only.  Some  joist  and  boards 
were  accordingly  sawed,  and  the  whole  divided  into 
suitable  apartments  for  the  families,  single  men,  store- 
room, dining  room,  &c.  After  they  had  thus  far  made 
their  habitation  as  comfortable  as  possible,  they  con- 
templated building  a  large  house,  in  the  European 
fashion,  not  only  for  their  accommodation,  but  also  for 
strangers,  who  might  touch  at  this  island.    The  plan 


mmm 


«i 


(    105    ) 

el  the  building,  and  its  ute^  being  approved,  the  Mis* 
Bionaries  unanimously  proceeded  to  the  work,  by  pro- 
curing timber,  and  sawing  it  into  joist  and  boards. 
The  major  part  of  the  Missionaries  found  this  to  be 
very  hard  work,  as  they  had  not  heretofore  been  ac* 
customed  to  such  employ ;  but  as  all  things  were  com^ 
mon,  and  the  work  for  the  general  good,  they  perse- 
vered therein  cheerfully :  they  were  also  considerably 
aided  by  the  natives,  who,  occasionally,  lent  a  helping 
hand.  An  accident  occurred  which  proved  delrimei^ 
tal  to  us ;  Peter  Hodges,  our  blacksmith,  in  assisting 
with  a  raft  of  timber,  had  his  leg  broke,  by  means  of  a 
wave  heaving  a  tree  on  the  beach  before  he  had  time 
to  get  out  of  its  way :  of  his  services  we  were  wholly 
deprived,  arising  partly  from  want  of  skill  in  the 
doctor,  as  he  lost  entirely  the  use  of  his  leg.  Two  of 
the  brethren  were  employed  in  building  a  boat  24  feet 
in  length ;  which  was  designed  for  visiting  the  various 
districts  of  Otaheite,  and  also  the  adjacent  islands.  la 
these  pursuits  the  Missionaries  were  principally  en* 
gaged,  devoting  a  portion  of  the  day  to  their  various 
labours,  and  another  to  the  learning  of  the  language :  a 
vocabulary  of  words  in  the  Otaheitean  tongue  was  pro--, 
cured  in  London,  for  the  use  of  the  mission ;  and 
during  the  voyage  many  of  the  Missionaries  had 
copied  it,  and  had  learned  to  converse  in  the  language 
of  the  island,  as  they  supposed,  pretty  well.  But 
though  the  Missionaries  could  understand  each  other 
in  the  Otaheitean  language,  the  natives  could  not,  or 
would  not,  understand  a  single  word  of  English.  Occa- 
sionally small  parties  would  make  tours  into  the  adjoin:* 


# 


(    106     )         ^ 

ing  districts,  by  which  they  had  a  greater  opportunity 
of  learning  the  language,  and  also  of  discovering  more 
minutely  the  disposition  of  the  inhabitants. 

In  a  tour  round  the  island,  in  company  with  Dr. 
Gilham,  we  had  an  opportunity  of  witnessing  the  gross 
superstition  of  the  people,  and  their  total  bubjection  to 
priestcraft :  on  our  visit  to  Temarre,  in  the  district  of 
Pappara,  a  man  presented  himself  in  an  old  blue  coat 
turned  up  with  red,  his  head  surrounded  with  nume- 
rous feathers,  so  as  to  hide  his  countenance  entirely. 
He  ran  up  to  us  with  an  unintelligible  jargon,  making  a 
squeaKing  noise,  and  actions  so  wild,  that  we  asked  if 
the  man  was  delirious.  The  natives,  perceiving  we 
were  not  frightened,  said  it  was  Temarre's  son,  the 
Eatooa  ote,  tlie  little  god,  which  killed  Omiah  and 
many  others.  Having  witli  us  a  large  Newfound- 
land dog,  who  not  much  approving  the  god's  aopear- 
ance  and  behaviour,  fell  upon  him,  which  obliged  the 
god  to  take  to  flight.  After  a  while,  the  priest  returned 
io  a  fury  with  a  club  in  his  hand,  driving  all  before 
him;  the  women  and  children  shrieking,  and  the  na- 
tives trembling.  We  immediately  jumped  up  to  pro- 
tect the  dog,  against  which  his  rage  was  directed,  wrest- 
ing the  club  from  him,  turned  up  the  feathered  cap, 
and  discovered  him  to  be  a  man,  who  had  ran  away 
from  Matavai  for  robbing  Pyetea.  He  was  immediate- 
ly charged  with  the  theft ;  when  he  changed  counte- 
uance  and  appeared  much  terrified.  The  natives 
interposing  in  his  behalf,  while  his  imposture  was 
exposed,  he  fled,  and  was  seen  by  us  no  more. 

He  appeared  to  be  one  of  those  called  tahowra 


W*: 


(     107     ) 

Eatooa,  who  affect  inspiration.  Of  these  some  pre" 
tend  to  belong  to  a  particular  deity,  others  to  many : 
such  as  claim  acquaintance  with  the  superior  Eatooas 
are  of  the  most  consequence,  and  obtain  high  reverence; 
and  they  perform  their  part  with  so  much  cunning 
and  address,  that  the  Swedes,  as  well  as  the  mariners 
who  preceded  them,  really  believed  the  appearances 
supernatural,  and  that  the  devil  was  actually  the 
agent. 

When  they  are  called  upon  to  consult  the  deity, 
they  assume  a  singular  dress,  ornamented  with  red  and 
black  feathers;  to  which  they  say  the  Eatooa  is  so 
partial,  that  on  their  approach  to  him  in  this  habit,  he 
descends  to  the  earth  at  their  call  in  one  of  the  sacred 
birds  which  frequent  the  morals  and  feed  on  the  sacri- 
fices.    As  soon  as  the  bird  lights  on  the  morai,  the 
Eatooa  quits  the  bird  and  enters  the  priest.     He  in- 
stantly begins  to  stretch  and  yawn,  and  rub  his  arms, 
legs,  thighs  and  body,  which  is  pref5ently  inflated  as  if 
the  skin  would  burst ;  he  distorts  his  eyes,  sometimes 
staring  wide,  then  half  closed,  and  sinking  into  stupor; 
and,  at  other  times,  the  whole  frame  is  agitated,  and 
appears  to  have  undergone  some  sudden    and  sur- 
prising change.     The  speech  is  first  low,  the  voice 
squeaking  and  interrupted;  then  on  a  sudden  raised 
to  an  astonishing  degree.     He  speaks  intelligibly,  and 
affects  neither  to  know  what  he  says,  nor  the  per- 
sons of  those  around  him ;  but  his  words  are  consider- 
ed as  oracles,  and  whatever  he  asks  for  the  deity,  or 
himself,  is  never  refused,  if  it  can  be  procured.     Of 
this  the  actor  affects  to  have  no  consciousness;  his 


(    t08    ) 

SBsiBtant  always  takes  care  to  minute  the  claims  of 
the  deity,  and  receives  them  from  the  person  on  whose 
account  the  deity  was  so  condescending  as  to  appear : 
these  demands  are  generally  very  large. 

When  the  deity  quits  the  pretended  inspired 
tahowra,  he  does  it  with  such  convulsions  and 
violence  as  leave  him  motionless  on  the  ground,  and 
exhausted ;  and  this  is  contrived  to  be  at  the  moment 
when  the  sacred  bird  takes  his  flight  from  the  moral.  On 
coming  to  himself  he  utters  aloud  shriek,  and  seems  to 
awake  as  from  a  profound  sleep,  unconscious  of  all 
that  has  passed. 

The  priests  have  plenty  of  employment,  being 
called  in  on  all  occasions,  births  or  deaths,  feasts  or 
sickness ;  and  are  the  physicians  as  well  as  clergy  of 
the  country.  They  affect  to  possess  extraordinary 
powers,  to  inflict  diseases  or  remove  them  at  pleasure, 
and  are  greatly  feared  on  that  account.  They  are 
supposed  to  be  able  to  pray  the  evil  spirit  into  the 
food,  by  rubbing  a  human  skull  with  a  part  of  the  pro- 
visions they  eat;  and  sometimes  to  kill  men  outright. 
Thus  Orepiah  is  thought  to  have  died  by  Manne 
Manne's  conjuration.  They  acknowledge  that  over 
the  Missionaries  they  have  no  power,  because  they 
know  not  the  names  of  their  Gods  and  their  grand- 
father; which  is  necessary. 

The  priests  who  superintend  the  lower  orders  of  the 
people  act  nearly  in  the  same  manner,  differing  only 
in  cunning  and  abilities :  among  these  are  women  who 
officiate,  though  not  solely,  for  their  own  sex.  They 
tliink  it  impossible  that  a  child  should  come  into  the 


fT 


■•* 


(     109     ) 

the  world  without  their  assistance,  though,  io  fact, 
they  afford  none.  People  of  property,  when  sick, 
will  have  half  a  dozen  priests  and  priestesses  pray- 
ing around  them,  and  making  offerings  for  them ;  and 
whichever  of  these,  in  the  estimation  of  the  sick  per- 
son, is  supposed  to  be  the  happy  cause  of  his  recovery, 
he  is  sure  to  be  well  rewarded,  and  always  after  to  be 
highly  respected.  When  a  priest  visits  a  person  of 
consequence,  he  carries  a  youug  plantain  in  his  hand, 
and  before  he  enters  the  house  offers  a  prayer,  sticks 
a  leaf  of  the  plantain  in  the  thatch,  and  throws  the 
remainder  of  the  tree  on  the  roof. 

L 


(     "0     ) 


CHAPTER  V. 


Tbe  arrival  of  a  ressel  from  China  in  distress.— Disastrous  con- 
sequences.—Otoo  the  king  prohibits  any  commerce  with  the 
vessel.— The  Missionaries  supply  the  vessel  from  tlieir  pri- 
vate stores.— Depaiture  of  the  vessel.— Returns  again  in  a  vt^orse 
condition. — Most  of  the  crew  desert.— A  deputation  to  the 
king.— -The  deputies  cruelly  beaten  and  stripped  by  the  king's 
men  .—Discovery  of  the  intention  of  a  formidable  body  of  natives 
to  attack  the  Missionaries.— Resolution  of  the  majority  to  quit 
the  island — The  captain  agrees  to  take  them  to  New  South 
Wales.— Embarkation  cad  depai*ture  from  Otaheite. — Pass 
several  of  the  Society  Islands. — The  ship  very  leaky.— Short 
of  provisions. — SuiTounded  by  nine  waterspouts  —Discover 
Norfolk  Island. — A  gale  of  wind. — Providential  escape.- Lord 
Howe's  Island.— AiTive  at  Poit  Jackson.  .    - 


1  HITS  were  the  Missionaries  situated,  and  engaged 
in  accomplishing  their  plans,  looking  forward  to 
the  fruits  of  their  operations,  and  enjoying  the  bless- 
ings of  a  kind  providence,  together  with  peace  and 
tranquillity  with  the  natives  during  the  period  of 
Bbout  twelve  months,  when  their  cheering  prospects 
and  designs  were  thwarted  by  the  arrival  of  a  vessel 
Urom  Macao  in  China,  named  the  Nautilus,  Captain 


(   in    )    ' 

Bishop,  and  bouDd  for  the  N.  W.  coast  of  America 
for  fur  skins  for  the  China  market.  The  natives 
having  first  discovered  the  vessel  in  the  ofiing,  they 
came  with  all  speed  with  the  information  to  the  Mis- 
sionaries, and  were  much  pleased,  supposing  it  was 
the  Duff  returned  again  to  visit  them.  The  Mission- 
aries shortly  after  discovered  her,  and  proceeded  to 
make  suitable  preparations  for  the  reception  ot  the 
strangers,  by  providing  refreshments:  having  pre- 
viously erected  a  flag  staff  opposite  their  dwelling, 
they  hoisted  their  colours,  and  displayed  themselves 
to  the  greatest  advantage.  As  the  vessel  neared  the 
harbour,  a  committee,  consisting  of  five  or  six,  was 
deputed  to  put  off,  and  learn  to  what  nation  they  be- 
longed, where  bound,  and  whether  in  want  of  supplies. 
As  the  boat  came  alongside,  it  was  evident  they  were 
suspicious  of  our  intentions,  by  having  their  men  sta- 
tioned at  the  gune,  and  others  in  the  main  and  fore- 
tops,  with  musketoons,  boarding  pikes,  &c,  to  give 
their  supposed  invaders  a  warm  reception;  they  having 
had  no  information  of  Europeans  being  here,  and  had 
not  the  most  distant  idea  of  a  mission  being  established 
at  so  great  a  distance  from  their  own  countiy.  These 
precautionary  measures  ot  defence  were  vei  y  neces- 
sary, especially  when  we  reflect  on  their  having  no 
knowledge  of  Europeans  being  there,  the  English  flag" 
flying,  no  vessel  in  the  harbour,  and  no  correct  in- 
telligence of  the  dispositioaof  the  islanders.  However, 
the  deputies  were  politely  received  on  board,  and  treat- 
ed with  the  greatest  courtesy  and  respect  by  the  cap- 
iaia  and  officers;  to  whom  the  Missionaries  related  their 


.  (     112    ) 

comfortable  situation  oo  the  island,  the  motives  which 
had  induced  them  to  settle  there,  the  humane  and  gentle 
disposition  of  the  inhabitants,  the  supplies  their  island 
afforded  in  the  greatest  abundance.  This  information 
was  peculiarly  gratifying  to  them,  as  they  were  re- 
duced, by  adverse  weather  and  long  continuance  at  sea, 
to  very  distressing  circumstances,  as  will  appear  from 
the  captain's  recital  of  his  voyage,  and  of  their  adver- 
sities from  the  period  of  leaving  Macao  to  their  arri- 
val atOtaheite.  He  observed,  that,  shortly  after  leaving 
China  they  were  overtaken  by  various  gales  of  wind, 
in  one  of  which  they  sprung  the  foremast :  they  were 
then  obliged  to  bear  away  for  the  nearest  port,  which 
was  Kamschatka,  where  the  vessel  underwent  the 
necessary  repairs;  which  being  completed,  they 
again  proceeded  for  the  N.  W.  coast,  but  had  left  that 
place  only  a  few  days,  when  they  again  encountered 
severe  storms,  in  which  they  sustained  other  damages. 
They  were  therefore  obliged  a  second  time  to  put  into 
Kamschatka.  When  they  had  refitted  their  vessel,  and 
procured  such  supplies  as  the  place  afforded,  they  at- 
tempted again  to  proceed  for  the  N,  W.  coast,  but 
were  ultimately  prevented  from  pursuing  the  object 
of  their  destination  by  various  providential  dispensa- 
tions, particularly  in  the  time  being  prolonged,  and 
their  vessel  considerably  disabled  by  the  preceding 
events,  the  shortness  of  their  provisions,  and  being 
intercepted  by  subsequent  gales  of  wind,  which  obliged 
them  to  hetv  away  for  the  Sandwich  Islands,  where 
they  were  in  expectation  of  being  amply  supplied. 
They  arrived  at  tlie  Island  Owhyee,  one  of  that  group: 


(    113    ) 


t 


vhen,  on  minutely  investigating  the  condition  of  the 
vessel,  and  not  being  able  to  procure  a  sufTicient  sup- 
ply or  provisions  and  other  necessaries,  ♦hey  were 
under  the  unavoidable  necessity  of  running  down  to 
Otaheite  in  order  to  recruit  their  stores,  and  repair 
the  vessel  as  well  as  circumstances  would  permit. 
Afterwards  they  iiitended  to  proceed  to  M assafuro  on 
the  W.  coast  of  S.  America  for  skins ;  (having  relin- 
quished their  former  object;)  but  on  their  arrival  here, 
the  vessel  was  found  to  be  in  a  bad  state,  very  leaky, 
the  copper  worn  off,  and  otherwise  too  dangerously 
conditioned  to  prolong  the  voyage  without  having  her 
careened,  and  undergoing  a  thorough  repair;  which 
was  altogether  impracticable  at  this  island.  The 
condition  of  the  vessel,  want  of  provisions,  &c.  fully 
confirmed  the  captaiu^s  narrative.  The  supercargo 
was  sitting  on  the  quarter-deck  eatiog  his  breakfast  of 
rice  out  of  a  wooden  dish,  and  it  appeared  that  tliis 
was  used  by  all  in  the  cabin  in  succession,  having  in 
the  gales  lost  or  broke  all  their  crockery ;  of  which, 
when  they  left  China,  they  had  an  abundant  supply. 
Their  provisions  were  nearly  e:ipended,  and  water 
only  for  a  few  days ;  and  the  crew  was  almost  exhaust- 
ed with  fatigue  in  constant  pumping  the  vessel  *,  and 
also  suffering  the  want  of  the  common  necessaries  of 
life.  The  Missionaries  inquired  of  the  captain  what 
articles  of  commerce  he  had  on  board,  wherewith  he 
could  trade  with  the  natives  for  the  supplies  he  want- 
ed ;  that  they  might  inform  him  at  how  much  the  peo- 
ple would  value  them,  and  that  he  might  regulate  his 
speculations   accordingly.     The  captain    informed 

L2 


(    "4    ) 

them  that  blue  cloth,  China  boxes,  muskets  and  am** 
munition,  were  principally  their  investment,  and  was 
designed  for  trading  on  the  JN".  W.  coast  for  skins. 
When  this  information  respecting  the  arms  was  com- 
municated to  the  Missionaries,  it  created  considerable 
anxiety  in  their  minds,  as  such  instruments  were  more 
highly  prized  than  any  other  species  of  property; 
for  such  is  their  dread  of  fire-arms,  that  the  chief  who 
possesses  most  is  considered  the  greatest,  and  most 
absolute,  and  is  sure  to  be  followed  by  the  largest 
numbers  in  the  event  of  war.  This  article,  therefore, 
the  Missionaries  wished  to  prevent  being  circulated 
among  them,  because  ihey  have  sometimes  been  pro- 
ductive of  war  and  bloodshed.  The  human  mind  is 
not  more  or  less  depraved  in  Otaheite,  than  in  the 
contending  countries  of  what  is  called  civilized  Eu- 
rope. It  is  everywhere  common  for  the  strongest 
power  to  assume  a  despotic  sway  over  the  weakest ; 
and  frequently  these  acts  of  tyranny  and  oppression 
are  varnished  over  with  the  title  of  "  just  rights, 
national  honour,"  &c.  and,  generally,  heaven  is  called 
upon  to  witness  that  they  arc  moved  in  these  acts  of 
aggression  by  the  most  honourable  motives — to  seek  a 
just  reparation.  The  Missionaries  entreated  the  cap- 
tain not  to  trade  with  the  arms,  promising  at  the  same 
time  that  if  he  should  not  be  able  to  procure  a  suffi- 
cient supply  with  the  other  articles,  they  would  make 
up  the  deficiency  from  their  own  stores,  to  which  the 
captain  agreed.  They  also  enjoined  upon  him  to 
keep  this  negotiation  secret  from  the  natives,  because, 
should  they  hear  of  it,  the  event  would  no  doubt  sub- 


(     115     ) 


V 


ject  the  MissioDaries  to  serious  difficulties;  as  was 
ultimately  the  case.  Blue  cloth,  and  the  other  articles 
of  commerce,  may  be  esteemed  valuable  commodities 
on  the  N.  W.  coast ;  but  not  so  in  Otaheite ;  had  it  been 
scarlet,  instead  of  blue,  it  would  have  been  purchased 
with  greater  avidity,  and  proved  very  satisfactor}'-. 
However,  notwithstanding  secrecy  being  enjoined  in 
the  preceding  arrangement,  the  natives  unfortunately 
became  acquainted  therewith,  by  means  of  one  of  the 
Swedes,  or  some  of  the  natives  of  Owhyee,  (who  had 
taken  passage  on  board  the  Nautilus.)  The  result 
terminated  as  was  apprehended ;  for  the  king  imme- 
diately prohibited  any  Tarther  commerce  with  the  ves- 
sel :  neither  were  provisions  of  any  kind  suffered  to 
be  sent  on  board.  The  Missionaries  were  therefore 
under  the  necessity  of  supplying  them  out  of  their  own 
stores,  agreeably  to  previous  engagement.  About 
forty-five  large  hogs,  a  sufficiency  of  water,  and  other 
necessaries,  were  accordingly  sent  on  board ;  also  seve- 
ral important  repairs  to  the  vessel  were  completed : 
after  which  the  captain  was  determined,  notwithstand- 
ing the  shattered  state  of  the  vessel,  to  proceed  to 
Massafuro,  as  noticed  before.  When  the  supplies 
were  on  board,  and  the  vessel  put  in  the  best  p^^ssible 
order,  they  proceeded  accordingly  on  their  voyage. 

The  Missionaries  having  furnished  the  vessel  from 
their  own  stores,  found  in  consequence  their  stock 
had  grown  very  small,  i^hich  obliged  them  to  have 
recourse  to  the  natives  io  recruit  it  again:  but  on 
application,  they  found  it  impossible  to  purchaee  any, 
though  larger  prices  were  offered  than  heretofore. 


(    116    ) 

They  now  discovered  that  the  prohibition  ordered  by 
the  king  did  not  extend  merely  to  the  ship,  but  also 
to  them.  Distant  behaviour  and  jealousy  were  in 
consequence  very  apparent  in  the  natives,  and  those 
who  had  been  most  familiar  endeavoured  to  shun 
the  company  of  the  Missionaries,  whereas,  before 
the  arrival  of  this  vessel,  the  greatest  confidence 
was  reposed  in  them.  Thus  were  they  reduced  to 
difficulties,  and,  by  the  hostile  disposition  of  the 
islanders,  they  apprehended  still  greater.  The  Mis- 
sionaries remained  in  this  anxious  state  of  suspense 
about  a  week,  when  information  of  a  ship  in  sight 
from  the  heights  was  brought  to  their  dwelling,  which 
they  shortly  after  perceived  was  the  Nautilus.  The 
variety  of  conjectures  entertained  by  the  Missionaries 
on  this  occasion  were  great,  to  ascertain  the  reason  of 
her  return  so  early  after  her  departure.  In  order  to 
learn  the  cause,  the  Missionary  boat  was  despatched 
on  board,  when  they  were  informed  that  they  had  ex- 
perienced a  heavy  gale  of  wind,  in  which,  before 
they  could  kill  and  secure  the  hogs  they  had  received 
at  Otaheite,  the  whole  were  washed  overboard,  by  the 
violence  of  the  gale,  and  seas  continually  breaking  in 
upon  the  deck,  and  at  times  they  with  great  difficulty 
could  preserve  themselves,  and  of  the  stock  they  had 
received  only  one  goat  was  remaio^-^»  on  board.  At  this 
information  the  Missionaries  were  greatly  perplexed, 
as  the  difficulties  were  doubtless  greater  than  any 
they  had  heretofore  sustained — they  were  at  a  loss  to 
know  what  was  the  most  proper  conduct  to  pursue 
under  these  accumulations  of  distress,  for  the  ship  was 


(     117    )  ^^ 

now  iu  a  much  worse  condition  than  on  her  first  arri- 
Fal.  Being  compelled  either  to  permit  the  captain  to 
trade  with  the  fire-arms,  or  to  furnish  him  again  from 
their  scanty  remaining  stores,  they  resolved  on  the 
latter,  trusting  to  providence  for  their  future  supplies. 
Thus  were  they  hedged  up  on  every  side,  by  the 
most  trying  events,  which  portended  annihilation  to 
their  peaceable  residence  any  longer  upon  this  island. 
An  additional  occurrence  of  distress  took  place  on  the 
second  night  after  their  arrival,  by  the  desertion  of 
the  greater  part  of  the  crew;  the  whole  of  the  natives 
from  Owhyee  absconded  by  swimming  on  shore,  (the 
distance  was  about  11-2  mile,)  and  shortly  after  two 
Europeans  made  off  with  the  ship's  boat,  and  secreted 
themselves  among  the  mountains.  In  the  morning, 
when  the  captain  found  himself  deserted  by  the  prin- 
cipal part  of  his  company,  together  with  the  loss  of 
the  boat,  (the  only  one  he  had,)  his  situation  was  ren- 
dered the  most  abject  and  distressing;  for,  without  the 
recovery  of  the  boat  and  some  of  the  deserters,  it 
would  be  altogether  impossible  to  proceed  on  the 
voyage.  Therefore  he  wrote  to  the  Missionaries,  in- 
forming them  of  the  preceding  night's  occurrences, 
and  requesting  them  to  use  their  influence  with  the 
king  for  the  recovery  of  the  boat  and  crew.  The 
Missionaries  accordingly  met  to  consult  on  the  proper 
mode  of  attending  to  this  request;  when  it  was  re- 
solved that  a  party  should  be  sent  in  search  of  the 
boat,  and  a  deputation  of  four  to  the  king,  to  entreat 
him  to  exert  his  authority  that  the  deserters  might  be 
returned  on  board.    Accordingly,  those  who  were  ap- 


:\ 


(     "8    ) 

pointed  to  wait  on  the  king  left  the  settlement  early 
in  the  morning,  and  those  to  search  for  the  boat  pro- 
ceeded to  the  accomplishment  of  that  object.  Short- 
ly after  their  departure  the  boat  was  discovered  by 
means  of  information  from  one  of  the  native  boys :  it 
was  sunk  in  the  fresh  water  river,  (which  runs  at  the 
back  of  the  beach,)  filled  with  stones,  and  covered  over 
with  bushes ;  and  in  all  probability  it  would  have  re- 
mained undiscovered  till  the  vessel  had  left  there, 
had  it  not  been  for  the  assistance  of  this  boy.  On  the 
recovery  of  the  boat,  it  was  immediately  sent  on  board 
to  be  repaired,  having  been  considerably  damaged 
by  the  weight  of  stones,  and  other  bad  usage. 

At  about  4  P.  M.  a  native  boy  returned  to  the  set- 
tlement (one  who  had  accompanied  the  deputies  to  the 
king)  apparently  in  the  greatest  consternation,  who 
then  informed  the  Missionaries  of  the  treatment  their 
deputies  had  sustained;  that  on  their  arrival  in  the 
district  of  Oparre,  they  were  assailed  by  a  party  of 
the  king's  men,  in  number  about  three  or  four  hundred, 
who  had  abused  and  beaten  them  in  a  shocking  man- 
ner, and  that  he  expected  they  were  all  killed ;  that 
he  had  made  his  escape  as  early  as  possible;   and 
moreover  he  was  positively  assured,  from  information 
he  had  gained,  that  tliere  were  large  parties  of  armed 
natives  collected  together,  under  the  orders  of  the 
king,  and  it  was  designed  that  an  attack  should  be 
made  that  night  on  the  settlement.     This  Information 
created  great  uneasiness  iti  the  minds  of  the  Missiona- 
ries, and  for  a  long  time  they  were  in  the  utmost  anx- 
iety for  the  safety  of  the  deputies,  and  also  as  to  the 
2 


■4i- 

I 


(    "9    ) 

most  consistent  mode  of  conducting  themselves  under 
these  adverse  circumstances.  Their  apprehensions, 
however,  respecting  the  safety  of  the  deputies,  wei-e, 
about  dusk,  relieved  by  their  arrival  in  a  canoe,  who 
fully  confirmed  the  information  given  by  the  boy,  and 
added,  as  their  opinion,  that  it  was  absolutely  necessary 
to  keep  a  strong  guard  during  the  night,  being  per- 
suaded, from  the  hostile  disposition  of  the  natives, 
that  they  designed  an  immediate  attack.  The  deputies 
then  narrated  the  trials  they  had  gone  through,  and 
the  indignities  to  which  they  were  subjected:  that 
on  their  arrival  in  the  dbtrict  before  mentioned,  they 
were  met  by  a  considerable  party  of  the  king's  men, 
who  beat  them  unmercifully,  tore  their  clothes  from  off 
them  with  the  greatest  violence,  dragged  them  through 
rivers,  and  otherwise  ill  treated  them :  in  short,  they 
expected  nothing  but  immediate  death.  But  provi- 
dence rescued  them  from  destruction  by  means  of 
Pomarre,  the  king's  father,  who  had  heard  of  their 
situation,  when  immediately  a  message  was  sent  by 
him  to  the  king  insisting  on  their  being  released, 
'which,  to  their  great  joy,  was  attended  to.  They  were 
then  sent  to  Fomarre's  house,  who  fed  and  clothed 
them  in  the  native  habit :  after  having  thus  comforted 
them,  they  were  sent  home  under  his  protection  in 
one  of  his  canoes. 

Consternation  and  contusion  were  now  increased  in 
consequence  of  a  report  just  arrived,  that  the  natives 
intended  making  the  attack  were  already  assembled 
in  great  numbers  in  the  district,  and  detachments 
were  very  near  the  settlement  waiting  for  the  word  of 


:\ 


{    120    ) 

GOimnaiul.   This  informatioD,  together  with  the  rough 
treatment  the  deputies  had  experienced,  left  no  doubt 
id  the  minds  of  any  that  a  determined  plan  was  laid 
to  strike  a  final  blow  as  soon  as  night  should  favour 
their  designs..  These  circumstances  bore  heavy  on  the 
minds  of  the  Missionaries,  as  they  seemed  to  portend 
their  destruction,  or  at  least  to  defeat  their  attempts 
to  establish  a  permanent  settlement  on  this  island. 
The  contrariety  of  opinions  prevailing  on  this  occa- 
sion, together  with  the  distressed  situation  of  the  wo- 
men and  children,  constituted  it  a  very  trying  period. 
Some  were  desirous  of  soliciting  the  captain  to  re- 
move them  to  an  adjacent  island,  so  that  they  might 
have  an  opportunity  of  returning  to  Otaheite  when 
the  indignation  would  be  past :  others  were  for  being 
removed  to  Port  Jackson,  relinquishing  the  idea  of  ever 
returning  to  this  place;  and  others  were  for  still  con- 
tinuing on  the  island,  and  leaving  the  event  of  their 
destination  in  the  hands  of  God,  the  dispenser  of  all 
things.     During  these  consultations,  two  of  the  Mis- 
sionaries went  a  short  distance  into  the  district  in  order 
to  be  more  fully  confirmed  in  the  preceding  reports, 
and  to  observe  the  disposition  of  the  natives.    As  they 
were  proceeding  towards  some  huts  which  were  partly 
concealed  with  the  surrounding  trees,  they  discovered 
them  full  of  armed  men,  who,  when  thev  saw  the  Mis- 
sionaries, immediately  retreated  towards  other  huts  in 
their  rear,  which  were  also  filled  with  armed  natives, 
when  they  also  retreated  as  before.     On  seeing  such 
numbers,  and  fearing  an  ambushment,  it  was  thought 
advisable  to  return.    One  of  the  Missionaries  fired  a 


(    121     ) 

pistol  over  the  heads  of  the  natives  at  which  they  in- 
staDtly  stooped  to  the  earth,  for  the  ball  to  pass  over; 
the  whole  then  retreated  still  further  into  the  country, 
being  joined  by  others  imiaediately  after.  The  Mis- 
sionaries thereupon  returned  and  reported  what  they 
had  seen,  intimating,  at  the  same  time,  that  an  attack 
might  be  expected  that  night.  The  greater  part  then 
resolved,  as  they  had  before  contemplated,  to  send  a 
deputation  to  the  captain,  to  request  him  to  take  them 
off  the  island,  as  every  prospect  or  probability  of  re- 
siding any  longer  comfortably  among  the  inhabitants 
had  vanished.  The  deputies  were  accordingly  sent  and 
kindly  received  by  the  captain,  who  cordially  assent- 
ed to  the  proposition,  for  all,  or  as  many  as  had  con- 
cluded to  take  passage  with  him  to  New  South  Wales ; 
(he  having  relinquished  the  idea  of  making  any  fur- 
ther attempt  towards  the  accomplishment  of  his  origi- 
nal destination ;)  that  they  were  at  liberty  to  come  imme- 
diately on  board,  with  whatever  effects  they  designed 
to  remove,  as  he  was  determined  to  sail  direct  to  Port 
Jackson,  in  order  that  the  vessel  might  be  thoroughly 
repsdred.  When  this  information  was  communicated 
to  the  Missionaries,  they  made  immediate  preparation 
for  the  voyage ;  the  remaining  stock  of  provisions, 
together  with  a  few  more  hogs,  which  they  had  pur- 
chased at  an  exorbitant  price,  with  some  bread-fruit, 
cocoa-nuts,  plantains,  &c.  were  sent  on  board.  Their 
private  property  being  shipped,  the  Missionaries  em- 
barked, and  early  the  next  morning,  the  wind  being 
fair,  weighed  anchor  and  proceeded  on  the  voyage  for 
Kcw  South  Wales.    The  families  (excepting  Mr.  and 

m 


(    122    ) 


Mrs.  Eyre)  embarked  with  the  majority  of  the  single 
men.  The  consequences  resulting  from  the  prece- 
ding events  were  peculiarly  trying,  and  sincerely  re- 
gretted by  those  who  left.  It  may,  however,  appear 
to  some,  that  their  conduct  was  precipitate  and  cen- 
surable, thus  to  relinquish  the  object  of  the  mission, 
especially  as  there  were  numerous  islands  adjacent, 
in  which  they  might  have  found  shelter  until  the 
Otaheitean  storm  had  subsided.  To  which  may  be 
replied,  as  the  general  opinion  of  the  brethren,  that 
Missionary  labours  were  as  much  required  in  the  colo- 
ny of  New  South  Wales  as  in  the  Society  Islands,  and 
that  a  greater  probability  existed  of  more  easily  re- 
turning from  Port  Jackson,  should  they  be  so  disposed, 
than  appeared  likely  from  some  of  the  adjacent 
islands.  The  brethren  left  at  Otaheite  were  Mrs. 
and  Mr.  Eyre,  John  Jefferson,  Ileniy  Bickncll, 
Benjamin  Broomhall,  and  Henry  Nott.  From  the 
advanced  age  of  Mrs.  Eyre,  and  the  difficulties  which 
she  had  experienced  on  the  passage  from  England,  it 
was  probable  that  the  voyage  to  Port  Jackson  would 
subject  her  to  greater  distress  than  she  could  suffer 
by  remaining  on  the  island.  The  other  brethren 
tliought  it  was  their  duty  to  remain,  at  all  events,  in  the 
station  in  which  providence  had  placed  them. 

Passed  Eimeo,  and  shortly  after  came  in  sight  of 
Ulitea,  Uheine,  and  other  of  the  Society  Islands,  but, 
having  a  favourable  breeze,  and  pleasant  weather, 
made  no  stay. 

From  the  weak  state  of  the  crew,  in  consequence 
of  the  desertions  at  Otaheite,  the  Missionaries  were  di- 


I -A 


(     123    ) 

vlded  into  the  watches,  and  were  obliged  to  perform 
the  duty  of  seumen.  The  weather  continued  fair  and 
pleasant,  witti  alternate  calms;  but  notwithstanding 
the  serenity  of  the  weather,  they  were  under  the  ne- 
cessity of  pumping  every  hour,  and  in  rough  weather 
she  could  scarcely  be  freed  by  pumping  every  half 
hour.  The  Nautilus  proved  to  be  a  very  bad  sailer, 
arising  principally  from  the  copper  being  bo  much 
torn,  and  bent  backwards.  After  being  at  sea  about 
a  month,  found  our  stock  of  provisions  had  growa 
very  scanty,  which  reduced  us  to  short  allowance. 
The  hogs  on  board  were  in  a  state  of  starvation; 
hot  being  able  to  procure  sufficient  food  for  them  at 
Otaheite.  Some  of  their  flesh,  with  a  little  rice,  and  a 
small  portion  of  water,  constituted  our  daily  fare :  how- 
ever, we  were  in  some  measure  comforted  under  these 
deprivations,  by  expecting  to  touch  at  Norfolk  Island, 
where  we  hoped  to  procure  an  abundant  supply.  One 
morning,  at  about  7  oVlock,  our  company  was  con- 
siderably alarmed  by  a  collection  of  nine  water- 
spouts ;  some  of  which  were  within  a  quarter  of  a 
mile  of  the  vessel.  The  firing  of  guns  was  resorted 
to  on  this  occasion,  which  had  the  desired  effect  of 
dispersing  them.  It  was  a  grand  scene,  and  displayed 
the  wisdom  and  power  of  the  Almighty :  the  sea  was 
greatly  agitated,  and  immense  waters  were  drawn  up 
by  the  clouds. 

We  arrived  in  sight  of  Norfolk  Island  on  the  22d  of 
April.  The  captain  designed  to  put  in  for  fresh  provi- 
sions, but  having  discovered  the  land  about  20  miles  to 
Ic^iward,  a  heavy  sea  running,  and  our  vessel  in  bad 


(     124    ) 

cooditioD  for  working  to  windward,  we  could  not 
gain  the  island,  though  we  persevered  a  whole  day 
to  effect  that  object;  and  instead  of  approaching 
nearer,  found  that  every  tack  drove  us  farther  off. 
Therefore  any  further  attempt  was  relinquished,  and 
we  then  bore  away  for  Port  Jackson.  Some  fresh 
provisions  would  have  been  very  acceptable,  particu* 
larly  bread  and  potatoes,  »r  many  on  board  had  almost 
forgotten  the  taste  of  these  things ;  and  also  from  our 
real  wants. 

This  island  is  delightful  in  appearance^  and  from 
its  situation  and  diversified  hills  and  vales  must  ren- 
der it  a  healthy  and  fertile  island.  It  is  chiefly 
covered  with  a  thick  forest  of  pine  trees,  which  grow 
to  an  immense  height ;  the  wood  is  useful  in  building, 
and  appears  durable.  Norfolk  Island  is  inhabited  by 
a  detachment  of  convicts  from  the  colony  at  Fort 
Jackson,  whose  crimes  have  not  merited  death. 
This  is  the  second  transportation,  from  whence  few 
are  ever  permitted  to  return.  This  island  lies  £.  of 
New  South  Wales  about  900  miles,  lat.  29°  4'  S. 
long,  les**  12' E. 

The  beginning  of  May  we  arrived  in  the  latitude  of 
Lord  Howe's  Island,  distant  from  Norfolk  Island 
s^ut  400  miles,  when  we  experienced  a  heavy  gale 
of  wind ;  Captain  Bishop,  supposing  we  were  to  the 
northward  of  the  island  about  30  miles,  continued 
standing  before  the  gale,  not  suspecting  any  danger, 
when,  about  11  o'clock  P.  M.  the  second  mate  having 
the  watch  on  deck,  discovered  a  rock  called  the  Pyra« 
mid,  distant  about  one  league  from  Lord  Howe's  1st* 


(    12i5    ) 

and :  we  were  etandiDg  direct  on  the  Fyramid,  and  it 
was  the  general  opinion,  that  five  minutes*  more  sail- 
ing in  the  same  direction  would  have  ended  the  voy- 
age with  our  lives;  but  providence  in  a  remarkable 
manner  interposed  for  our  deliverance ;  a  tremendous 
squall  of  wind  and  rain  had  just  passed,  leaving  a  suf- 
ficient gleam  of  light  for  us  to  discover  the  rock,  the 
distance  from  which  was  judged  to  be  about  three 
quarters  of  a  mile.  In  this  trying  situation,  confusion 
and  dismay  pervaded  the  whole  company.  The 
night  was  very  dark,  exceedingly  tempestuous,  and  ac* 
companied  with  heavy  rain:  under  these  circum- 
stances, the  captain  hardly  knew  which  way  to  put 
the  ship,  whether  to  wear,  or  throw  her  on  the  wind ; 
for,  from  the  bad  state  of  her  bottom,  and  her  sails 
considerably  torn,  she  could  not  lay  nearer  than  seven 
points  of  the  wind,  and  making  two  more  of  ''^e-way ; 
however,  he  determined  to  throw  her  on  the  wind, 
which  proved  right ;  for  in  so  doing  we  stood  both  from 
the  rock  and  island  also,  and  comparatively  escaped 
within  a  hair's  breadth,  without  experiencing  any 
other  difficulty  than  continually  pumping,  suffering 
the  effects  of  the  drenching  rains,  and  the  repetition 
of  seas  breaking  over  us.  Thus  the  interposition  of 
providence  appeared  in  our  behalf^  by  rescuing  us 
from  that  danger,  which  portended  immediate  destruc- 
tion ;  for  the  situation  of  the  vessel  was  such  that  no 
reasonable  expectation  of  deliverance  could  be  enter- 
tained. 

The  weather  for  two  or  three  days  subsequent  con« 
linued    squally  and   hazy.     Nothing   particularly 

M2 


(    126    ) 

occurred  worth  noticiDg  after  leaviog  iN'orfolk  Island 
till  our  view  of  the  coast  of  Nevr  South  Wales,  which 
we  discovered  on  the  13th  May,  1798,  and  on  the 
14th  arrived  at  Fort  Jackson,  after  a  voyage  of  six 
weeks,  all  in  better  health  than  could  reasonably  have 
been  expected,  when  the  length  of  the  voyage,  and 
the  circumstances  under  which  we  laboured,  are  con- 
sidered. 


vVkll^.^ii^.,-;^ 


(     127    J 


CHAPTER  VL 


Introduction  into  the  colony.— Generosity  of  Goveraor  Hunter* 
— Arrival  of  a  ship  from  Calcutta. — The  writer  engages  with 
]yir.  Robert  Campbell,  the  supercargo,  as  an  assistant,  and  ia 
appdnted  his  agent  during  liis  absence  to  Calcutta. — ^The 
liouse  broken  open  and  robbed. — The  thieves  discovered  and 
convicted. — Some  of  the  Misaonaries  commenced  preaching* 
«->Brother  Samuel  Clode,  one  of  the  Misuonaries,  murdered 
by  some  convicts. — The  surviving  Misuonaries  arrive  from. 
Tongataboo,  with  an  account  of  their  disasters,  and  descrip^ 
tion  of  that  island,  customs,  &c. 


JL  HE  Missionaries  held  a  consultation,  on  the  suK 
ject  of  addressing  a  letter  to  Mr.  Johnson,  the  Epis» 
copal  minister,  (and  the  only  religious  society  iu  the 
colony,)  stating  their  motives  for  leaving  England,  the 
object  of  the  mission,  the  disaster  which  befel  them  at 
Otaheite,  &c.  and  soliciting  him  to  use  his  influence 
irith  the  governor  (Hunter)  in  our  behalf  to  appoint 
us  a  dwelling  for  a  temporary  residence,  until  an  op- 
portunity offered  for  providing  for  ourselves ;  to  which 
he  cheerfully  acceded ;  when,  on  the  following  day, 
his'  excellency  the  governor  appointed  for  our  ao« 


ii 


(     128    ) 

commodation  a  comfortable  habitation,  and  in  addition, 
he  generously  placed  us  as  pensioners  on  the  public 
stores,  from  which  we  received  a  weekly  ration  of 
151b.  of  wheat,  which  we  exchanged  with  the  bakers 
for  bread ;  we  also  had  an  allowance  of  3  1-2  lb.  of 
pork,  or  7lb.  of  beef.  This,  together  with  some 
vegetables,  which  we  purchased  of  the  inhabitants  at 
an  exorbitant  rate,  and  water,  constituted  our  daily- 
repast  On  this  we  lived  for  about  three  weeks,  but 
finding  the  allowance  rather  pinching,  and  having  no 
property  that  we  could  conveniently  dispose  of  foi 
money,  and  no  employment  by  which  we  could  add 
to  the  provision  granted  by  the  governor,  rendered 
our  situation  rather  uncomfortable.  It  may  be  neces- 
sary here  to  remark  that  the  provision  granted  to 
us  by  the  governor,  is  the  general  allowance  both  to 
the  officers,  soldiers  and  convicts. 

The  Missionaries  were  invited  to  become  settlers 
in  the  colony,  to  accept  the  usual  donation  of  land,  ^ 
which  the  government  gives  to  freemen.  Notwith- 
stauding  these  encouraging  offers  on  the  part  of  the 
government,  many  of  the  Missionaries  viewed  them 
in  a  gloomy  light :  the  necessity  of  continued  hard 
labour  for  two  yea^s,  in  cutting  down  trees,  cultivating 
the  land,  and  erecting  the  necessary  ^/uildings,  in  or- 
der to  make  it  a  comfortable  and  permanent  resi- 
dence, was  very  discouraging,  especially  as  many 
Lad  never  been  accustomed  to  such  labour,  caused 
them  to  quit  the  idea  of  thus  settling  in  the  colony.  On  " 
the  other  hand,  when  they  reflectctl  how  they  could 
be  otherwise  employed,  so  as  to  maintain  themselves 


.,p 


(    129    ) 

tomfoi-tably,  many  depressing  circumstances  were  pre* 
sented. 

At  this  time  the  ship  Hunter  arrived  from  Calcutta^ 
laden  with  a  general  investment  of  merchandise  for 
the  colony;  in  short,  with  almost  every  article  the 
I  colonists  were  in  great  want  of;  and  no  period  since 
the  first  establishment  required  supplies  so  much  as 
this ;  for  they  were  reduced  to  merely  pork,  beef, 
bread,  and  water;  and  of  these  but  a  scanty  supply  $ 
excepting  a  few  individuals,  v^ho  had,  remaining  from 
former  imports,  some  rum,  tea,  sugar,  dry  goods,  &c. 
and  were  in  consequence  amassing  abundant  riches. 
Previous  to  this  arrival,  rum  ^.ras  selling  at  fovir  gui- 
neas per  gulloD,  tea  four  guineas  per  lb.,  sugar  of  an 
inferior  quality,  six  shillings  per  lb.,  a  leaf  of  tobacco 
for  six  pence,  and  otlier  goods  in  the  same  exorbitant 
proportion.  This  supply  was  therefore  happy  for  the 
people  in  general,  as  the  most  indigent  were  enabled 
to  lay  in  a  winter  stock. 

The  narrative  respecting  the  Missionaries  in  th»>ir 
collective  capacity  must  be  left  for  the  present;  as 
the  subsequent  detail  will  mostly  relate  to  the  writer. 
His  prospect  of  being  comfortably  situated  as  a  colo- 
nist, was,  with  many  of  his  brethren,  considered 
gloomy.  He  therefore  determined  to  entreat  the 
captain  of  th''  Hunter  to  grant  him  a  passage,  on  the 
return  of  his  vessel  to  the  East  Indies,  supposing 
thereby  that  a  conveyance  to  Europe  might  be  more 
easily  effected  than  from  New  South  Wales,  but  on 
application  he  was  much  grieved  by  a  sharp  refusal : 
however,  real  supplicants,  whose  circumstances  are 


(     130     ) 

desperate,  \n\\  not  be  driven  from  their  pursuit  by 
the  first,  second,  or  third  repulse ;  for  their  necessities 
will  urge  them  on  to  perseverance.  Thus  was  the 
writer  situated,  being  compelled  by  future  prospects 
to  solicit  the  captain  a  second  time ;  when  he  endea«< 
roured  to  address  his  feelings,  in  pointing  out  his 
former  mode  of  living,  and  that  the  hope  of  being 
comfortably  situated  in  the  colony  was  very  Uiicer- 
taia.  This  application  was  also  unsuccessful ;  how- 
ever, another  attempt  was  determined  on,  notwith- 
standing the  opposition  of  the  captain.  The  third 
solicitation  was  made  when  the  supercargo  (Mr. 
Robert  Campbell)  was  in  his  company ;  the  lequest 
was  again  urged;  to  which  Mr.  C.  manifested  con- 
siderable attention,  and  a  different  (  •-'  ion  from 
that  of  the  captain*  Mr.  C.  then  interrogated  me 
respecting  my  former  employ  in  Europe,  character, 
qualifications,  &c.  The  result  of  which  wa»>  with- 
out any  further  cevemouy,  an  invitation  to  breakfast 
at  his  house  the  next  morning;  this,  as  may  be 
supposed,  was  cheerfully  embraced.  Being  now 
introduced  from  short  allowance  to  the  abundant 
variety  of  an  East-India  breakfast,  though  in  Foi't 
Jackson,  was  no  small  gratification.  Thus,  frr  m  Cy^ 
meanest  fare,  I  was  entertained  with  the  parp<^  rjiil 
luxury  of  the  eastern  style  of  liviag.  In  the  couis  > 
of  our  conversation  at  breakfast  Mr.  Campbell  in- 
formed me  that  he  had  sold  a  large  portion  of  the 
cargo  of  the  Hunter  to  the  officers  of  the  colony,  and 
therefore  he  was  disposed  to  enter  into  an  engagement 
i^ith  me  to  remain  on  board  the  ship,  to  keer  ^he  ac^ 


(     131     ) 

counts  during  the  delivery  of  the  cargo.     To  this  I 
gladly  consented,  and  entered  upon  the  office,  and 
continued  till  the  v^hole  of  the  cargo  was  discharged, 
with  expressions  of  approbation  from  my  employer. 
Of  the  cargo  of  the  Hunter,  about  two  thousand 
pounds  sterling  worth   remained  unsold,  consisting 
principally  of  dry  goods,  sugars,  and  spirits :  from  the 
excellent  sales  Mr.  C.  had  made  he  was  encouraged 
to  proceed  direct  to  Calcutta  for  another  investment, 
when  he  requested  me  to  accept  the  office  of  agent 
for  him  during  his  absence,  to  sell  the  remaining  part, 
and  collect  some  outstanding  debts.     The  Hunter  was 
despatched  to  New  Zealand  for  a  cargo  of  spars  for 
the  Calcutta  market.     And  Mr.  C.  sailed  in  another 
vessel,  leaving  me  with  his  instructions,   as  to  the 
disposal  of  the  remaining  cargo,  a  power  of  attorney, 
&c.  and  expressing  his  intention  of  returning  again  to 
the  colony  in  about  nine  months ;  but  instead  of  re- 
turning, according  to  the  proposed  time,  from  the  long 
voyage  of  the  Hunter  he  was  detained  17  months. 
During  his  absence  I  made  many  good  sales^  and 
dome  bad  ones. 

Having  been  invited  to  dine  with  a  party,  it  was 
proposed,  after  dinner,  to  take  a  ride  into  the  country, 
to  which  I  agreed ;  but  not  being  properly  equipped. 
I  was  under  the  necessity  of  reiiiming  home  to  change 
a  part  of  my  dress,  when,  to  my  great  astonishment,  I 
found  that  the  house  and  store  had  been  broken  open, 
and  to  every  appearance  had  been  plundered  to  a 
considerable  amount.  Hesitating  for  some  time  as  to 
the  best  mode  of  procedure,  T  at  length  concluded  to 


(    132    ) 

Secure  the  place  as  well  as  circumstances  would  admit : 
this  being  accomplished,  I  proceeded  to  obtain  the  aid 
of  the  provost  marshal,  who  readily  attended  to  my 
request.  We  then  made  diligent  search  for  the  pro- 
perty, a  large  portion  of  which  we  found  secreted  in 
a  pig-sty,  covered  with  fdth,  and  goods  were  found 
strewed  about  in  different  parts.  We  also  made  an 
immediate  discovery  of  the  thieves,  who  were  accord- 
ingly secured.  It  appeared  they  had  made  very  free 
with  the  rum  bottle,  to  which  was  attributed  so  early 
and  complete  a  detection.  The  property  found  con- 
sisted of  the  most  valuable  India  muslins,  dimities,  &c. 
Under  these  circumstances,  an  immediate  inspection  of 
the  stock  and  sales  was  necessary,  in  order  that  a 
knowledge  of  what  was  missing  might  be  ascertained ; 
when  there  appeared  a  deficiency  of  between  two  and 
three  hundred  pounds. 

Some  of  the  Missionaries  commenced  preach- 
ing at  the  northern  boundary,  and  continued  with 
prospect  of  success  about  three  months,  when  the 
number  of  their  hearers  declining,  they  were  great- 
ly discouraged;  but  by  perseverance  their  hopes 
were  revived;  the  number  of  hearers  increased,  and 
twenty-two  settlers  in  the  district  called  Kissing  Point, 
voluntarily  offered  to  build  a  place  for  public  worship, 
requesting  the  continuance  of  their  services,  and 
that  they  would  use  their  interest  with  the  governor 
to  appoint  a  schoolmaster  to  teach  their  children. 
His  excellency  not  only  appointed  a  teacher,  but  gave 
them  some  materials  towards  erecting  the  building, 
thereby  manifesting  his  decided  approbation  of  the 
Missionaries'  service. 


wm>  iiii^fi 


(     133    ) 

The  beginning  of  July,  1798,  Samuel  Clode,  one 
of  the  Missionaries,  was  cruelly  murdered  by  a  soldier 
named  Jones,  to  whom  he  had  lent  some  money ;  the 
circumstances  of  this  murder  are  as  follows:     Mr. 
Clode  having  lent  Jones  a  sum  of  money,  and  having 
made  an  engagement  to  return  to  England,  he  asked 
Jones  for  the  payment,  and  Tuesday  afternoon  was 
appointed  for  the  settlement.  Prior  to  this  time,  Jones 
had  engaged  a  man  of  the  name  of  £lbray  to  assist 
him  in  his   cruel  intention,  who,  it   was  designed, 
should  come  behind  Mr.  Clode  and  knock  him  down 
with  an  axe  provided  for  the  purpose,  and  placed  in 
a  corner  of  the  room ;  after  Mr.  Clode  had  entered 
the  house,  and  was  seated  in  a  chair  placed  for  him, 
£lbray  came  in ;  he  took  up  the  axe,  but,  his  heart 
failing  him,  he  laid  it  down  again,  and  went  out  of 
doors,  where  he  staid  till  he  heard  the  first  blo^  r  given 
by  Jones  I  who,  inhuman  to  relate,  repeated  his  blows 
so  often  that  Elbray  at  last  cried  out,  "  for  God's  sake, 
Jones,  you  have  knocked  him  all  to  pieces;"  they  then 
dragged  him  into  an    outhouse,  where   the  brutal 
wretch,  Jones,  cut  his  throat  from  ear  to  ear,  and 
some  time  after  they  took  up  the  mangled  body,  threw 
it  into  a  sawpit,  and  covered  it  with  green  boughs. 
The  providence  of  God  appears  singularly  in  bringing 
this  horrid  murder  to  light.  A  man  had  been  at  work 
hoeing  for  several  days  round  this  pit,  and  in  the  eve- 
ning used  to  leave  his  hoe  in  the  pit;  going  to  work 
the  next  morning,  and  looking  for  his  hoe,  he  was  sur- 
prised to  see  80  many  green  boughs  laid  over  the  pit; 


(     134    ) 

suspecting  something  was  there  planted,  i.  e.  some 
property  that  had  been  stolen  was  concealed,  h**  put 
in  his  hoe,  and  removed  the  boughs,  when  he  '.mme' 
diately  saw  the  hand  of  a  dead  man.  He  then  called 
out  to  a  man  who  was  cutting  fire-wood  at  a  small 
distance ;  three  or  four  others  came  at  the  same  time, 
Jones  among  the  rest,  and  immediately  charged  the 
man  who  first  discovered  Mr.  Clode  in  this  mangled 
condition,  with  the  Murder,  and  wanted  to  tie  his 
hands  with  a  handkerchief,  and  take  him  into  the 
camp  a  prisoner. 

News  of  this  shocking  accident  soon  spread  in  all 
directions.  Suspicions  falling  upon  Jones,  the  path 
leading  from  the  pit  to  his  house  was  closely  examined, 
and  blood  traced  (some  of  the  brains  of  the  deceased 
laid  in  different  places)  to  the  very  door,  and  making 
further  search  in  the  house,  blood  was  discovered  in 
different  parts,  particularly  in  the  outhouse.  The 
axe  was  found  with  blood  and  brains  upon  it,  though 
it  had  been  previously  washed ;  the  knife  and  a  blanket 
were  discovered  in  the  same  stat*^.  The  governor 
and  Mr.  Johnson  soon  went  and  saw  Mr.  Clode's  re- 
mains, after  which  they  went  into  the  camp,  whither 
Jones  had  returned,  who  expressed  his  concern  for 
the  murder  of  a  man  he  so  dearly  loved,  and  to 
whom  he  was  so  much  indebted  for  his  kindness 
and  attention  to  him  and  bis  family,  in  times  of 
sickness ;  he  again  endeavoured  to  throw  the  mur- 
der upon  the  mftn  that  first  discovered  Mr.  C.  in  the 
pit  From  the  tale  he  told,  and  other  circumstances 
concerning  it,  the  man  w^s  throwu  into  prison;  but 


(     135    ) 


1^ 


At  the  very  time  Jones  was  speaking,  another  man 
came  up,  and,  in  the  presence  of  the  governor,  Mr. 
Johnson,  and  other  gentlemen,  said  to  Jones,  "  Jones, 
you  are  the  murderer ;  blood  is  traced  from  the  pit 
directly  to  your  house."  He  then  began  to  protest 
his  innocence,  and  to  repeat  his  expressions  of  esteem 
and  affection  for  the  deceased.  His  body  was  ex- 
amined, and  blood  was  found  upon  one  of  his  fingers. 
He  was  taken  to  the  pit,  and  ordered  to  look  at  the 
body,  and  to  touch  it.  He  replied, "  Yes,  I  will,  and 
kiss  him  too  if  you  please,  for  I  love  him  as  my 
brother." 

Circumstances  confirming  the  guilt  of  Jones,  he, 
his  wife,  and  two  men  who  lived  in  his  house,  were 
immediately  apprehended,  and  the  next  day,  Thurs- 
day, a  criminal  court  was  convened  purposely  to  try 
them,  when  three,  viz.  Jones,  his  wife,  and  Elbra*', 
were  convicted  upon  the  clearest  evidence,  and  it 
Was  feared  the  fourth,  though  acquitted,  was  a  party 
in  some  way  concerned.  Jones  continued  hardened 
to  the  last,  and  his  wife  little  better;  but  Elbray, 
struck  with  remorse,  made  a  full  confession  of  the 
whole  transaction,  first  to  a  sergeant  in  the  corps, 
and  afterwards  to  Mr.  Johnson,  from  which  the 
above  account  w^as  taken. 

By  an  order  of  the  governor,  the  house  in  which 
the  murder  was  committed  was  on  Saturday  burnt  to 
ashes;  a  temporary  gallows  was  erected  upon  the 
same  spot,  and  at  twelve  o'clock,  these  three  inhuman 
wretches  were  taken  out  of  their  prison,  and  conveyed 
in  a  cart  to  the  place,  where  they  were  launched  into 


(    136    ) 

eternity,  rather  execrated  than  pitied  by  a  Dumeroufl 
multitude  of  spectators.  The  bodies  of  the  two  men 
tvere  hung  in  chains  near  the  place,  and  that  of  the 
woman  was  given  to  the  surgeons  for  dissection.  / 
In  the  interim  Mr.  Johnson  kindly  gave  directions 
for  the  body  of  Mr.  Clode  to  be  brought  into  town, 
to  a  small  hut  of  his  own,  and  ordered  a  decent  coffin, 
sliroud,  &c.  to  be  made.  r>rumbers  went  to  see  him, 
and  many  with  tears  lamented  his  untimely  end.  On 
Friday  his  remains  were  committed  to  the  silent  grave 
with  the  greatest  possible  respect.  The  pall  was 
borne  by  five  surgeons  and  Captain  Wilkinson.  His 
excellency  the  governor  walked  with  Mr.  Johnson 
before  the  corpse ;  which  was  followed  by  the  Mis- 
sionaries, several  officers  and  others.  After  Mr.  John- 
son had  read  the  burial  service,  a  hymn  was  given 
out  by  Mr.  Cover,  and  Mr.  Johnson  concluded  the 
:;olenm  service  by  a  short  address  to  the  spectators. 
He  was  so  much  affected  that  he  could  say  but  little, 
and  many  of  his  hearers  were  in  tears :  he  gave  notice 
that'he  purposed  to  preach  a  discourse  on  the  Sunday 
but  one  next  following;  when  he  preached  in  the 
morning  from  2  Samuel,  c.  16.  v.  17.  "  Is  this  thy 
kindness  to  thy  friend  ?"  and  in  the  afternoon  from: 
Jeremiah,  c.  6.  v.  10.  "  To  whom  sliall  I  speak 
and  give  warning  that  they  may  hear  ?'*  Mr.  John- 
son gave  tlie  following  character  of  the  deceased: 
**  As  a  christian  he  was  both  humble  and  exemplary ; 
as  a  surgeon,  humane  and  attentive ;  and  as  a  Mis- 
sionary, he  spent  much  time  among  the  natives;  by 
whom,  as  well  as  by  persons  of  every  descriptioa 


beloDgiDg  to  the  colony,  he  lived  beloved  and  died 
lamented.'* 

In  the  month  of  February,  1800,  two  vessels  arri- 
ved, viz^  the  ship  Betsey,  Captain  Clark,  and  a  brig, 
her  prize,  from  the  coast  of  Peru ;  in  their  voyage 
from  that  coast,  they  touched  at  the  island  Tonga- 
taboo,  which  was  highly  gratifying  to  the  Missionaries 
resident  on  that  island,  and  a  circumstance  exhibiting 
the  peculiar  interposition  of  divine  providence  ia 
their  behalf.  The  natives  of  these  islands,  it  ap- 
peared, had  for  many  months  previous  been  engaged 
in  desolating  wars;  iu  which  three  of  the  Missiona* 
lies  were  killed,  and  the  survivors  reduced  to  ex- 
treme perib.  The  arrival  of  these  vessels  afforded 
them  an  opportunity  of  quitting  this  scene  of  devasta- 
tion, and  arriving  at  Port  Jackson;  excepting  Mr. 
Veeson,  who  had  conducted  himself  in  such  a  way  as 
to  be  separated  from  the  society  of  his  brethren;  and, 
in  consequence  of  his  distance  from  them,  and  the 
danger  attendant  on  communicating  the  informatiou 
of  these  arrivals,  he  was  unavoidably  left. 

The  Missionaries  reported  the  following  interesting 
particulars  of  ihel:  calamitous  situation,  while  on 
that  island:  also  a  description  of  that  group,  and 
some  of  their  peculiar  manners  and  customs. 

The  Duff  left  the  Friendly  Islands  September  6, 
1 797,  when  the  Missionaries,  amounting  to  nine  in  num- 
ber, (one,  viz.  Mr.  Broomhall,  having  returned  in  the 
Duff  to  Otaheite,)  wer§  separated  under  the  care  oS 
different  chiefs:  they  had  experienced  considerable 
alarm  from  the  two  sailors.  Ambler  and  Morgan,  who 

N2 


(     138     ) 

were  ou  the  island  previous  to  the  arrival  of  the  Duflf^ 
and  the  chiefs  had  assured  tliem  before  the  ship  sailed) 
that  they  sliould  never  be  permitted  to  come  near 
them,  or  give  them  the  least  disturbance ;  but  this  af- 
forded the  Missionaries  a  proof  of  their  duplicity,  for 
the  first  evening  these  meu  came  to  some  of  them  for 
iron,  and  afterAvards  annoyed  them  in  a  considerable 
degree.  The  chiefs  appeared  to  interest  themselves 
in  the  safety  of  the  Missionaries;  they  would  not  suffer 
them  to  go  far  from  home  without  company  to  protect 
them,  and  appeared  satisfied  with  the  presents  which 
were  made  them. 

Early  in  the  year  1 798,  one  of  the  principal  women 
died ;  she  was  the  aunt  of  a  chief  with  whom  two  of  the 
Missionaries  resided,  and  who  had  to  that  time  pro- 
tected them  and  shown  them  much  kindness.  The 
death  of  this  woman,  who  had  long  laboured  under  a 
complication,  of  infirmities  and  diseases,  was  laid  to 
the  charge  of  the  Missionaries,  and  considered  as  the 
effect  of  their  prayers.  The  nephew  of  the  deceased 
seriously  advised  them  to  desist  from  their  pernicious 
practice  of  praying,  and  expressed  his  fears  that  if 
they  did  not  it  would  be  attended  with  bad  consequen- 
ces both  to  him  and  them,  as  the  people  in  general 
were  much  displeased  with  him  for  allowing  it.  This 
chief  meditated  the  destruction  of  the  Missionaries 
under  his  care,  but  was  I'revented  from  accomplishing 
his  purpose  by  the  priicipal  chief,  or  king,  of  the 
inland,  who,  hearing  of  this  design,  removed  the  Mi&> 
sionaries  to  his  own  residence,  and  thus  preserved 
their  lives.    He  appeared  by  this  conduct  to  enters 


(    139    ) 

tain  a  sincere  regard  for  the  IVliesionaries,  but,  in  the 
month  of  July,  they  were  alarmed  by  a  report  that 
most  of  the  chiefs  had^solicited  the  principal  chief, 
or  king,  who  had  hitherto  carried  it  bo  friendly  to 
them,  to  put  them  all  to  death,  and  that  he  had  consent- 
ed to  kill  those  who  were  under  his  protection ;  but 
by  the  intercession  of  three  natives  of  some  conse- 
quence, they  were  again  preserved  from  destruction. 
Soon  after,  the  house  of  one  of  the  Missionaries  was 
entered  by  ten  or  twelve  men  about  three  in  the  morn- 
ing, who,  threatening  to  kill  him  if  he  made  any  noise, 
ordered  him  out  of  doors;  and,  after  stripping  off  his 
shirt,  gave  him  a  piece  of  country  cloth  to  wrap  round 
him ;  they  then  plundered  his  house  and  left  him  with- 
out doing  him  any  personal  injury :  as  the  chief  under 
whose  care  he  was  had  left  home  the  afternoon  before, 
It  was  suspected  he  was  privy  to  the  outrage.  When 
the  principal  chief  was  informed  of  this  circumstance, 
he  desired  that  the  Missionary  so  treated  should  be 
removed  to  bis  companions,  who  were  under  his  pro- 
tection. 

^  After  having  frequently  been  in  a  state  of  alarm,  in 
the  month  of  April,  1 799,  they  heard  of  the  death  of 
the  principal  chief,  who  was  murdered  in  the  night 
while  asleep,  by  his  two  cousins,  to  which  barbarous 
action  they  were  instigated  by  the  dying  request  of 
their  father.  An  old  chief  in  the  interest  of  the  de- 
ceased, sent  for  one  of  the  Missionaries  and  desired 
iiim  to  request  his  brethren  to  take  their  fire-arms  and 
accompany  him,  who  was  going  as  commander  in  chief 
of  those  natives  who  had  resolved  to  avenge  the  death 


(     140    ) 

of  their  king.  The  Migsionarjr  refused  to  comply 
with  the  request,  and  the  chief,  surprised  aod  irritated 
in  no  small  degree,  finding  he  was  determined  not  to 
fight,  informed  him  that  he  and  liis  brethren  must  ex« 
pect  no  more  benefit  from  his  protection,  as  his  atten^ 
tion  would  be  engaged  another  way,  and  it  would  not 
be  in  his  power  to  lay  the  least  restraint  upon  the 
people ;  thb  they  imputed  to  his  caprice,  but  were 
soon  convinced  of  tlie  contrary,  for  the  same  day  all 
subordination  was  laid  aside,  and  every  one  acted 
without  control,  according  to  his  own  savage  inclinar 
tion,  and  nothing  but  the  most  horrid  confusion  and 
plunder  succeeded.  The  savage  disposition  of  these 
people  soon  appeared ;  the  body  of  the  father  of  the 
murderers  was  dug  up  and  exposed  upon  a  tree,  and 
a  native  in  the  interest  of  tlie  conspirators  was  taken 
prisoner  by  the  opposite  party,  w^  cut  him  up  alive 
and  eat  him  raw. 

The  conspirators  seemed  to  have  the  greatest  num- 
ber of  natives  on  their  side,  and  as  the  Missionaries 
were  with  the  other  party,  they  were  exposed  to  great 
danger,  being  shut  up  in  a  corner  wliere  it  is  scarcely 
a  mile  from  sliore  to  shore,  and  having  only  the  inha- 
bitants of  three  small  districts,  without  a  canoe  or  any 
possible  way  of  escape,  to  oppose  almost  all  the  other 
natives,  with  a  strong  reinforcement  which  the  enemy 
had  brought  from  a  neighbouring  island.  On  the  tenth 
of  May,  the  Missionaries  accompanied  their  party  to 
the  fight,  who  attacked  the  conspirators  with  great 
couvage,  and  succeeded  in  obtaining  a  victory,  and  ao> 
quiring  additional  strength  by  the  union  of  several 


(     141     ) 

chiefs  and  their  people,  ivho  at  the  first  engaged  against 
tliem.  On  their  inarch  they  saw  an  old  man  roasting 
a  part  of  one  of  the  dead  bodies  apparently  ifith  a 
design  to  eat  it,  and  a  little  further  was  the  body  of  a 
chief,  which  a  fellow  was  exhibiting  as  a  proof  of  his 
prowess,  having  severed  the  head  from  the  body;  and 
even  some  of  the  women  as  they  passed  dipped  their 
hands  in  the  blood  and  licked  them. 

The  victorious  party  were  highly  pleased  to  find 
the  Missionaries  on  the  march  with  them,  being  per- 
suaded that  they  had  fire-arms,  and  expecting  that 
they  would  use  them :  they  therefore  came  in  for  a 
share  of  praise  upon  every  little  advantage  which 
was  obtained  over  the  enemy;  even  the  dog  which 
one  of  them  led  in  his  hand  met  with  great  expres- 
sions of  kindness;  but  when  it  was  observed  that 
they  took  no  active  part  in  the  business,  they  became 
almost  as  obnoxious  as  the  enemy :  thus  exposed  to 
danger  they  determined  to  return  home,  and  found 
the  place  plundered  of  every  thing  except  their 
chests.  This  place  did  not  aiTord  them  an  asylum 
long,  for,  seeing  a  party  from  the  canoes  approaching 
tliem,  they  fled  to  the  back  part  of  the  island,  which 
was  little  frequented,  and  inaccessible  for  canoes  by 
a  high  reef  of  coral  rocks  :  here  they  remained  the 
grea^-st  part  of  the  day  undiscovered,  and  finding 
that  the  party  from  which  they  fled  had  been  driven 
back  to  their  canoes,  they  returned  to  their  home ; 
but  being  exposed  to  great  danger,  they  retired  to  the 
house  of  a  neighbour  who  professed  much  kindness^ 


(    142    ) 

but  who,  ihty  were  afterwards  informed,  entertaiaed 
serious  thoughts  of  murdering  them  in  the  night. 

Tlieir  troubles  now  increased  rapidly,  &nd  they 
were  literal!};'  in  jeopardy  of  their  lives  erery  hour. 
After  a  very  anxious  night  they  arose  about  day- 
break, and  at  noon  were  much  alarmed  by  a  great 
Dumber  of  natives  running  on  all  sides  of  them,  and 
the  information  that  the  conspirators  were  victorious, 
and  that  they  had  killed  many  of  their  friends ;  think- 
ing themselves  ia  great  danger  from  the  conquerors, 
they  ran  with  the  crowd  for  about  two  miles,  when 
they  were  met  by  a  party  of  armed  men  who  de- 
manded their  clothes,  and  as  it  seemed  at  the  hazard 
of  their  lives  to  refuse,  they  quietly  gave  them  up, 
and  substituted  some  country  cloth  they  had  with 
them  in  their  room ;  finding  they  were  looked  at  witli 
an  evil  eye  by  the  natives,  they  sought  a  shelter  on 
the  beach  near  to  them,  which  terminated  in  a  ridge 
of  craggy  rocks,  with  a  thick  wood  between  them 
-  and  the  country ;  here  they  took  up  their  abode ;  and, 
reflecting  upon  their  circumstances,  though  stripped 
of  all  tfieir  property,  they  thanked  God  for  the  con- 
solations of  religion. 

In  the  course  of  the  afternr/on  they  found  in  a  hole 
of  a  rock  a  quantity  of  fresh  water,  which  aflTorded 
them  a  very  seasonable  and  welcome  refreshment, 
and  about  sun-set  tvo  of  them  went  in  search  of  food, 
which  they  much  needeci,  having  tasted  nothing  ex- 
cept the  water  since  the  foregoing  evening;  they 
soon  returned  with  a  bread-fruit  and  some  green 


_;iiL ..--.-..-.. 


^«M 


(     143    ) 

bananas,  which  were  given  to  them  by  a  comprny  of 
men  they  met  with  at  a  little  distance,  who  com- 
municated the  Laournful  intelligence  that  their  bre- 
thren, viz.  Daniel  Bowell,  James  GauUon,  and  Samuel 
Harper,  who  resided  in  a  different  part  of  the  island, 
had  been  killed  near  their  own  houses  the  day  be* 
fore.    The  survivors  givc^  the  deceased  very  high 
characters,  and  observe  that  they  were  young  men 
who  possesf^ed,  in  an  eminent  degree,  every  talent 
m  cessary  to  render  them  useful  in  their  station,  and 
were  earnestly  concerned  to  make  a  diligent  improve- 
ment for  the  object  of  their  mission.    No  satisfactory 
accounts  of  th<;ir  death  could  ever  be  obtained ;  but  it 
appeared  that  t<Kt  <preat  a  confidence  in  the  good  will 
of  the  natives  had  prevented  them  from  taking  their 
fiiglit,  as  it  was  reported  that  one  of  the  chiefs  had  in- 
formed them  of  their  danger,  and  staid  so  long  en- 
treating them  to  flee,  that  it  was  with  some  difficulty 
he  escaped  himself. 

The  next  day  being  Sunday,  as  they  were  desirous 

to  spend  it  in  quietness,  they  determined  to  remain 

in  their  solitude ;  but  as  their  lodging  place  was  close 

to  the  road,  early  in  the  morning  they  went  further 

within  the  rocks,  where  they  found   a  convenient 

retirement,  and  breakfasted  on  tlie  remainder  of  their 

bread-fruit  and  bananas.     The  day  was  spent  in 

prayer  and  religious  conversation :  in  the  morning 

they  conversed  upon  the  fifth  verse  of  the  hundred  and 

forty-fifth  psalm,  and  in  the  afternoon  upon  the  fourth 

verse  of  the  twenty-sixth  chapter  of  Isaiah.    Just  as 

they  had  finished  their  afternoon's  religious  converse. 


(     144     ) 

a  man  armed  ivith  a  club  aud  spear  nished  cloge  by 
them ;  at  first  he  balanced  the  spear  iu  his  hand,  and 
seemed  inclined  to  throw  it,  but  after ,  they  had 
spoken  to  him  he  pretended  that  one  of  the  chiefs 
had  sent  him,  and  chid  them  in  a  friendly  manner  for 
remaining  there  to  starve :  he  said  he  would  go  iuto  a 
aeighbouring  wood  for  some  cloth  he  had  left  there, 
and  return  to  conduct  them  to  a  chief  who  had 
always  appeared  friendly  to  them ;  he  soon  returned, 
but  behaved  in  a  very  different  manner  to  what  he 
had  before,  and  desired  them  again  to  stay.  Sus- 
pecting his  design  was  unfriendly,  they  left  the  rocks 
in  as  cautious  a  manner  as  they  could,  and  descended 
by  a  road  which  led  to  the  sea,  designing  to  go  to 
Aheefo,  the  place  where  some  of  them  had  resided, 
though  they  knew  not  whether  it  was  in  the  hands  of 
friends  or  enemies.  They  had  not  gone  far  before 
they  met  a  company  of  ten  or  twelve  persons,  among 
whom  was  a  young  woman  known  to  one  of  them,  and 
who  advised  them  to  return  with  her  to  a  place  where 
several  of  their  wounded  neighbours  had  retired, 
find  among  the  rest  one  to  whom  she  offered  to  in- 
troduce them,  of  whose  good  will  they  had  no  reason 
to  form  any  high  opinion :  as  almost  all  their  friends 
had  been  killed  in  the  combat,  they  accepted  her  in- 
vitation, though  with  many  apprehensions  of  danger, 
as  the  most  probable  means  of  safety. 

They  were  continually  exposed  to  the  insults  of  the 
rabble,  and  those  who  appeared  kind  to  them  they 
had  good  reason  to  suspect  were  not  sincere;  in  a  few 


mmt 


i    145    ) 

clays  they  retunied  to  the  place  where  some  of  them 
had  resided ;  but  the  enemy  soon  after  landed,  and 
there  being  but  few  left  to  oppose,  the  leaders  were 
killed,  and  the  inhabitants  fled  in  the  greatest  con- 
fusion.    The  Missionaries  attempted  to  join  them  in 
their  flight,  which  was  refused,  till  a  young  man,  an 
acquaintance  of  one  of  them,  took  them  under  his 
guidance,  and  by  their  desire  conducted  them  to  a 
district  governed  by  a  chief  named  Fackafanooa, 
who  in  their  prosperity  had  made  great  professions 
of  friendship  for   them,  but  although  he   received 
them  with  apparent  kindness,  they  soon  found  he  was 
actuated  by  a  selfish  principle,  as   some  property 
which  they  buried  had  been  discovered,  and  expect- 
ing there  was  much  more  concealed  in  the  same 
way,  he  hoped  by  his  friendly  behaviour  to  them  to 
obtain  it.    When  they  informed  him  there  was  no 
more  property  secreted,  he  seemed  greatly  disap- 
pointed, and  desired  them  to  go  to  Ardeo,  the  late 
residence  of  the  three  Missionaries  who  were  killed* 
with  somt    latives  to  look  for  things  which  he  was 
informed  were  concealed  there ;  v  ith  this  command 
they  willingly  complied,  hoping  to  be  able  to  render 
the  last  office  of  friendship  to  their  deceased  brethren, 
whose  remains  still  lay  upon  the  road  exposed  to  the 
insults   of  the   savage   natives.     They  found  their 
bodies,  but  so  disfigured  that  iliev  could  not  have  dis- 
tinguished them;  but  the  nat'  es  who  accompanied 
them  pointed  them  out,  and  with  their  help  they  dug 
a  grave  large  enough  to  contain  them  all,  and  buried 
them  in  it,  without  either  coffin  or  shroud,  not  hav- 

O 


(    146    ) 

iog  60  much  as  a  change  of  country  cloUi  for  their 

own  use. 

The  conspirator,  who  was  now  conqueror,  having 

sent  for  them,  they  attended  him,  and  found  him  sur- 
rounded by  a  number  of  armed  men,  which,  they  were 
informed,  had  been  his  custom  ever  since  he  had  mur- 
dered the  late  king;  he  treated  them  in  a  friendly 
manner,  and  offered  them  to  choose  their  residence ; 
preferring  their  situation  ^vith  Fackafanooa,  he  con- 
sented, and  they  returned  to  him. 

Frequent  instances  occurred  to  show  they  were  ob- 
noxious to  those  with  whom  they  lived ;  and  attempts 
were  made  to  prejudice  the  mind  of  the  chief,  by  re- 
viving the  old  story  of  the  bad  influence  of  their  pray- 
ers, and  every  opportunity  was  embraced  to  afford  a 
pretext  to  express  tlieir  dislike;  but  on  the  20th  of 
August  three  of  the  brethren  and  a  sailor  left  by  a  ship 
after  their  settlement  upon  the  island,  appeared  to  be 
devoted  to  inevitable  destruction.  They  had  made 
themselves  serviceable  to  the  natives  in  working  up 
iron  into  tools,  knives,  &c.  for  which  they  were  paid 
in  provisions  ;  on  this  day  a  great  number  of  people 
came  with  work,  and  provisions  to  pay  for  it,  among 
the  rest  an  old  woman  brought  a  door  hinge  with 
nothing  but  a  piece  of  kavva  to  pay  for  it,  which  were 
presented  to  Fackafanooa,  the  chief,  and  received  by 
him  with  a  great  deal  of  complaisance ;  but  wanting 
something  to  relish  his  kavva,  he  demanded  some  pro- 
visions which  the  sailor  had  worked  for,  and  was  then 
carrying  into  the  house.  Provoked  by  so  unreasooh 
able  a  demand,  the  sailor  took  some  pains  to  make  his 


V  ,•• 


(    147    ) 

displeasure  known,  to  the  surprise  of  all  present:  tlie 
chief  and  his  attendants  went  away,  but  he  soon  re- 
turned with  upwards  of  fifty  unarmed  men,  and  desired 
them  to  come  out :  they  immediately  complied,  and 
were  each  of  them  seized  by  two  or  three  natives,  and 
led  out  of  the  yard :  on  the  outside  of  the  gate  they 
saw  ten  or  twelve  men  armed  with  spears,  who,  they 
supposed,  were  prepared  to  put  them  all  to  death. 
Fackafanooa,  the  chief,  seemed  much  agitated,  and 
when  they  asked  the  reason  of  his  conduct,  he  replied 
that  the  sailor  was  angry  with  him,  and  that  they  should 
all  go  to  a  chief  at  Aheefo;  he  then  left  them  and  went 
into  the  house  for  a  few  minutes ;  when  he  returned, 
he  commanded  silence  till  he  should  make  known  their 
sentence,  and  he  ordered  two  of  them  to  go  to  Aheefo, 
and  the  sailor  with  the  other  to  remain  with  him.   The 
two  who  went  to  Aheefo  were  apprehensive  of  »ome 
danger  on  the  road,  but  they  arrived  safely,  and  were 
affectionately  received  by  their  brethren,  who  in- 
formed them  of  a  message  which  the  chief  from  whom 
they  came  had  received,  desiring  him  to  put  them 
all  to  death,  so  that  their  preservation  was  truly 
wonderful. 

About  a  fortnight  after  this  separation,  the  Mission- 
ary who  remained  with  the  sailor,  overheard  a  con- 
versation in  which  it  was  proposed  to  murder  him, 
and  that  in  the  most  cruel  manner,  in  the  way  which 
is  called  by  the  natives  loomeeloomee,  an  inhuman 
punishment  seldom  practised  but  on  their  prisoners  of 
war^and  inflicted  by  means  of  a  cocoa-nut  shell  jagged 
for  the  purpose,  and  beaten  into  the  crown  of  the  head 


(    148    ) 

ivith  a  club ;  he  passed  the  mght  in  the  most  terrible 
apprehensioDs,  and  m  the  morning  fled  to  his  brethren 
at  Aheefo :  they  remained  in  circumstances  of  great 
danger,  though  a  few  appeared  really  friendly  to  them, 
till  the  21st  of  January,  1800,  when  two  ships,  the 
Betsey,  Captain  Clark,  and  her  prize,  opportunely  ar- 
rived, to  save  them  from  their  extremity,  for  in  a  late 
gale  of  wind  the  fruits  had  been  destroyed,  so  that 
they  were  threatened  with  famine ;  they  had  also  re- 
ceived the  most  positive  assurances  that  their  death 
was  determined  on  by  the  chief  who  had  the  supreme 
power  over  the  island ;  they  had  entertained  thoughts 
of  quitting  the  island  in  their  small  boat,  but  being  des- 
titute of  provisions,  and  of  every  material  for  naviga- 
tion, they  concluded  that  it  would  be  no  better  than 
flying  from  one  death  to  a  worse  :  they  waited,  and 
providence  interfered  in  their  behalf  and  saved  them 
in  their  extremity.  -^ 

They  all,  except  Mr.  Yeeson,  obtained  a  passage  in 
the  Betsey  and  her  prize  to  Fort  Jackson,  where  Mr. 
Shelley  and  Mr.  Cooper  remained,  and  Messrs.  Kelso, 
Buchanan,  and  Wilkinson  sailed  for  England  in  his 
majesty's  ship  the  Reliance,  and  arrived  safely  at 
Spithead  the  1st  of  September,  1 800.  Mr.  Shelley  is 
settled  at  Otaheite,  and  Mr.  Cooper  sailed  from  Fort 
Jackson  in  the  Betsey,  Captain  Clark,  who  is  supposed 
to  have  foundered  off  Norfolk  Island. 

Though  the  natives  of  Tongataboo  are  in  general 
treacherous  and  savagely  cruel,  yet  the  Missionaries 
met  with  some  friends  whose  regard  for  them  appeared 
to  be  real;  the  late  king,  or  principal  chief,  who  had 


•at* 


m 


(    1*9    ) 


been  murdered,  they  considered  as  a  friend ;  but  the 
war  which  was  carried  on  with  the  most  savage  bar* 
baiitj,  and  which  had  not  terminated  in  Augiist,  1804, 
had  swept  nearly  all  of  them  away,  except  Atta,  the 
chief  with  whom  they  last  resided,  who  accompanied 
thein  to  the  ship;  he  shed  many  tears  at  parting  with 
them,  and  requested  a  letter  from  them  for  him  to  pre- 
sent to  the  Duff,  or  any  ship  that  might  touch  at  the 
island,  containing  assurances  of  his  friendly  disposition 
to  then  .  .-id  clearing  him  from  all  blame  in  the  disas- 
ters they  had  experienced ;  another  named  Yaarjee, 
out  of  respect  to  the  deceased  Missionaries,  had  re- 
moved their  remains  to  a  convenient  place,  and  had 
erected  a  fiatooka  over  them  as  a  mark  of  honour  and 
respect:  but  their  expressions  of  friendship  are  not  to 
be  regarded,  for  they  are  as  cruel  and  treacherous  to 
each  other  as  they  are  to  strangers,  which  the  Mis- 
sionaries  had  many  instances  of  during  their  residence 
on  the  island. 

The  cruel  and  savage  disposition  of  this  people  has 
since  appeared  in  two  horrid  catastrophes,  an  account 
of  which  has  been  recently  received. 

The  people  at  Tongataboo  are  extremely  ferocious. 
An  American  ship  the  Duke  of  Portland,  Captain 
Lovat  Melon,  touched  at  that  island ;  and  having  re- 
ceived a  message  from  a  white  man  named  Doyle,  re- 
questing his  assistance  to  repel  some  invaders  who  had 
landed  from  a  neighbouring  island,  sent  off  his  boats, 
manned  for  that  purpose,  under  the  direction  of  Mr. 
Anderson,  the  second  mate.  This  duty  being  perform- 
ed, the  boats  returned  to  the  ship:  soon  after  which, 

02 


I 


I 


, 


t 


(    150    ) 

the  chief  of  the  island,  Ducava,  went  on  board  to  thank 
the  captain  for  faiB  services,  staid  all  night,  and  went 
on  shore  in  tlie  morning.  He  then  sent  a  message  to 
Captain  Melon,  desiring  him  to  send  his  boats  next 
morning,  to  receive  some  articles  of  refreshment  for 
the  use  of  his  crew ;  but  the  captdn,  entertaining 
some  suspicion  of  treachery,  declined  it,  and  would 
not  sufier  the  boats  to  go.  Notrnthstandiug  this 
order,  the  chief  mate  manned  and  armed  the  boats ; 
one  pf  which  returned  with  the  articles  promised,  ac- 
comjpanied  by  Boyle,  (the  white  man,)  who,  with  the 
natives  on  boards  took  the  first  opportunity  to  sur- 
round tlie  captain,  chief  mate,  and  sailors,  whom  they 
cruelly  murdered,  and  threw  their  bodies  overboard. 
Two  boys,  however,  were  spared;  also  a  black  woman, 
and  Eliza  Mosey,  a  woman  who  had  lived  with  the 
captain.  Anderson,  the  second  mate,  and  most  of  the 
crew  who  were  on  shore  with  him,  were  also  murdered; 
but  a  decrepit  white  man  and  two  boys  were  saved. 
Thus  all  the  crew  perished,  except  one  man,  four 
bfoys,  and  the  two  women.  But  the  villain  Doyle  did 
not  long  survive  this  bloody  ajOTair;  for  taking  charge 
of  the  vessel,  he  sent  the  women  on  shore,  retaining 
the  man  and  boys  to  assist  him  in  clearing  the  ship ; 
which  being  effected,  they  seized  a  convenient  oppor- 
tunity of  killing  Doyle,  and  driving  the  few  natives 
Oien  with  them  overboard.  They  then  cut  the  cables, 
afid  put  out  to  sea;  but  what  became  of  them  is  not 
knowu,  o^thiug  having  been  heard  of  Ihem  since. 
This  happened  about  the  first  of  June,  1802.  It  is 
supposed  that  they  have  all  perished. 


mmimtr 


(    151     ) 

.  Since  the  abovei  another  melancholy*  event  took 
place  at  the  8an:e  island: — The  ship  Union,  from 
New-York,  left  Port  Jackson  in  August,  1804,  and  put 
into  Tongataboo  the  30th  September  following^  and 
finding  the  natives  iriendl^.  Captain  Pendleton,  the 
commander,  and  Mr.  J.  Boston,  late  of  New  South 
Wales,  went  on  shore  with  the  ship's  boat,  manned 
and  armed ;  but  not  returning  for  three  days,  the  peo- 
ple on  board  were  extremely  anxious  for  their  safety ; 
when  the  woman  before  mentioned,  Eliza  Mosey,  (who 
remained  on  the  island  from  the  Duke  of  Portland,) 
appeared  at  the  head  of  a  canoe,  and  crying  out,  in- 
formed them  that  the  boat's  crew  were  all  murdered 
by  the  natives.  She  then  leaped  into  the  sea,,  and 
swam  to  the  ship ;  where,  being  received,  she  related 
the  cruelties  that  had  been  exercised  on  Captain  Pen- 
dleton and  his  men.  Upon  which  the  chief  mate  fired 
on  the  natives,  cut  his  cables  and  made  for  Port  Jack- 
son; where,  in  nineteen  days,  he  arrived  without  anj 
further  damage.  Several  of  the  crew  have  deposed 
on  oath  the  above  circumstances,  and  their  testimonies 
agree. 

Since  these  sad  events  have  been  known,  two 
American  ships  have  left  Port  Jackson,  fully  intend- 
ing to  visit  ToDgataboo,  and  revenge  the  wrongs  sus- 
tained by  their  countrymen ;  but  as  yet  we  have  not 
heard  of  their  fate. 

Tongataboo,  to  the  westward  of  Otaheite,  is  situated 
dX  the  distance  of  four  hundred  and  eighty  leagues. 
It  is  about  twenty  leagues  in  circuit,  and  nearly 


(    162    ) 

triangular  in  its  form.  Its  northern  side  is  indented 
by  a  bay  which  communicates  with  an  extensive 
lagoon  within  the  island.  The  shore  in  this  part  is 
low  and  sandy;  but  ascends  on  the  other  sides  of  the 
islaud  in  a  perpendicular  coral  rock,  from  seven  to 
ten  feet  above  the  sea  at  flood  tide,  which  rises  from 
three  feet  and  a  half  to  four  feet  and  three  quarters. 
The  interior  is  diversified  by  many  gentle  rising 
grounds.  The  soil  is  loose  and  black  to  a  considera- 
ble depth,  but  intermixed  with  strata  of  reddish  clay : 
it  is  chiefly  fertile,  and  in  many  parts  highly  cul- 
tivated ;  the  plantations,  in  the  midst  of  which  the 
principal  houses  are  placed,  are  neatly  enclosed  with 
reed  fences,  about  six  feet  high,  and  intersected  with 
innumerable  roads,  which  are  from  six  to  twelve  feet 
wide.  The  vegetable  productions  are  similar  to  those 
of  Otaheite,  tlie  cocoa-nut  being  in  greater  perfection, 
the  bread-fruit  in  less,  than  at  the  more  lofty  islands* 
There  are  several  plants  at  Tongataboo  that  were 
not  known  at  Otaheite ;  especially  shaddocks,  and  a 
new  species  of  Jesuits'  bark,  likely  to  equal  that  of 
Peru  in  medicinal  virtue.  It  is  well  furnished  with 
tiees,  which  grow  very  luxuriantly.  Water 4s  some- 
what scarce  and  mostly  brackish.  There  were  no 
dogs  before  they  were  supplied  by  Europeans. 
Of  other  animals  there  are  the  same  kinds  as  at 
Otaheite,  and  several  species  of  birds  not  common 
to  that  island,  particularly  green  paroquets  iH^ith 
red  feathers  on  their  heads.  Some  kinds  of  birds  are 
usually  tamed  and  fed  by  the  iahabitants.     There 


#' 


>*; 


(    153    ) 

^re  also  bats  In  great  numbers,  and  some  of  sncb 
magnitude,  that  the  tips  of  their  wings,  when  extend- 
ed, are  from  three  to  four  feet  apart. 

Tongataboo  is  divided  into  three  large  districtSy 
viz.  Aheefo,  at  the  northwest  end ;  Mooa,  the  middle 
district;  and  Ahoge,  situate  at  the  southeast  part^ 
each  governed  hj  a  chief,  who  reigns  with  absolute 
authority,  and  claims  a  right  of  disposal  over  the 
lives  and  property  of  his  own  subjects,  which  is  ex- 
ercised most  despotically.  These  districts  are  sub* 
divided  into  many  smaller  ones,  which  have  each 
their  respective  chiefs  presiding  over  them,  who  ex- 
ercise the  same  authority  as  the  superior  chiefs,  to 
whom  they  are  nevertheless,  in  some  cases,  accounta- 
ble :  so  that  the  whole  resembles  the  ancient  feudal 
system  of  our  ancestors. 

The  people  fully  answer  to  the  most  favourable 
representations  the  world  has  ever  received  of  them  ; 
their  bounty  and  liberality  to  strangers  is  very  great, 
and  their  generosity  to  one  another  unequalled.  It 
IS  no  uncommon  thing  for  them  to  complain  they  are 
dying  of  hunger,  and,  as  soon  as  they  receive  a 
morsel,  to  divide  it  among  as  many  as  are  present^ 
the  first  receiver  generally  leaving  himself  the  small- 
est share,  and  often  none.  When  they  kill  a  hog,  or 
make  any  mess  for  themselves,  there  is  always  a  por- 
tion sent  to  their  friends,  who  return  the  favour  as 
soon  as  their  circumstances  will  admit;  which  keeps 
up  a  constant  friendly  communication  among  them» 
and  which  has  not  been  seen  interrupted  by  any 
l|uarrel  during  a  stay  of  more  than  four  months. 


I 


(    1*4    ) 

Their  honesty  to  each  other  seems  unimpeachable, 
thouj^h  it  appears  the  accounts  of  their  dishonesty  to 
strangers  are  not  exaggerated.  The  murder  of  chil- 
dren, and  other  horrid  practices,  which  prevail  among 
the  Otaheiteaus,  are  unheard  oi  here.  Their  chil- 
dren are  much  indulged,  and  old  age  honoured  and 
revered.  Female  chastity  is  not  much  esteemed 
among  the  lower  orders,  but  lascivious  practices  are 
confined  to  them;  for  unchastity  among  females  of 
rank,  and  especially  after  marriage,  is  said  to  be 
punished  with  death. 

Their  marriages  are   attended  with   very    little 
ceremony ;  and  one  seen  by  the  Missionaiit  s  was  con- 
ducted in  the  following  manner:    A  young  female 
having  attracted  the  attention  of  the  bridegroom,  he 
first  informed  his  mother  that  he  wished  to  add  her 
to  the  number  of  his  wives.    She  immediately  com- 
municated this  to  the  damsePs  father,  and  the  pro- 
posal meeting  his  approbation,   he  clothed  her  in  a 
new  garment,  and  with  attendants,  and  such  a  quan- 
tity of  baked  hogs,  yams,  yava  root,  &c,  as  he  could 
aflford,  she  was  sent  to  her  intended  spouse,  who, 
being  apprized  of  her  coming,  seated  himself  in  his 
house,  and  received  her  in  the  same  manner,  and  with 
as  little  emotion  as  he  would  have  done  any  other 
visitor :  feasting  on  the  provisions,  and  a  good  draught 
of  yava,  concluded  the  whole,  and  the  bride  was 
at  liberty  either  to  return  to  her  father  till  again  sent 
for,  or  take  up  her  residence  with  her  husband.  Poly- 
gamy is  in  common  practice  among  the  chiefs,  each  of- 
whom  takes  as  many  Avives  as  he  pleases ;  but  they 


Ii0 


(   is«   ) 


are  entire  Btrangers  to  dumestic  broils,  which  m«yf 
in  a  great  degree,  be  owing  to  the  absolute  power 
each  man  has  over  his  own  family,  every  woman 
being  so  much  at  her  husband's  disposal  as  renders 
her  liable  to  be  discarded  on  the  smallest  displeasure. 
Their  deities  are  numerous ;  and  there  is  reason 
to  think  their  prejudices  are  strong.     Every  district 
has  its  own  deity ;  and  each  family  of  note  has  one, 
whom  they  consider  as  their  peculiar  patron.     The 
deities  of  the  districts  are,  on  certain  occasions,  re- 
presented by  the  several  chiefs  of  those  districts;  so 
that  their  natches  and  other  annual  exhibitions  are 
not  mere  public  amusements,  but  reli^ous   obser- 
vances, whereon  they  think  the  lives  and  health  of 
their  chiefs,  for  whom  they  have  great   affection, 
entirely  depend;  as  likewise  tlie  prosperity  of  the 
country  in  general :  expecting  the  succeeding  crop 
will  be  in  proportion  to  the  offerings  made  at  these 
times.     They  have  two  natches  in  the  year,  one  when 
their  yams  are  set,  to  procure  the  favour  of  Fut- 
tafaihe ;  and  the  other  when  they  gather  them  in,  ex- 
pressive of  their  gratitude.     The  winds  they  suppose 
to  be  under  the  control   of  a  female  called  Calla 
Filatonga,  who,  they  say,  is  very  powerful,  but  is 
little  regarded  by  them,  and  is  therefore  sometimes 
provoked   to   blow  down  their  cocoa-nut,  plantain, 
bread-fruit,  and  other  trjes,  and  commits  such  rava- 
ges as  oblige  them  to  bring  offerings  of  hogs,  yams, 
and  kawa,  in  the  most  humble  and  submissive  manucr, 
to  a  house  sacred  to  her,  where  a  person  is  appointed 
to  personate  her  on  the  occasion,  and  receive  the 


(     156    ) 

offering.  These  storms  being  very  unfrequeot,  and 
generally  over  before  appeasing  measures  are  taken, 
the  representative  is  in  little  danger  of  being  detected 
of  falsehood  by  returning  a  favourable  answer. 
This  office  of  personator  is  only  temporary,  being 
always  chosen  for  the  occasion. 

There  is  no  reason  to  suppose  that  there  is  any  such 
character  as  a  priest  among  them.  In  all  their  offer- 
ings each  man  kills  and  presents  his  own  sacrifice. 
Their  frequent  earthquakes  they  account  for  by  sup- 
posiiig  the  island  rests  upon  the  shoulders  of  a  very 
powerful  deity  called  Mowee,  who  has  supported  it 
for  such  a  length  of  time  as  exceeds  their  conception. 
This  heavy  burden  often  exhausts  his  patience,  and  then 
he  endeavours  to  shake  it  off;  which,  however,  never 
faiis  to  excite  a  horrid  outcry  over  the  whole  country, 
that  lasts  for  some  time  after  the  shock  is  over :  and 
they  sometimes  endeavour  to  quell  his  discontent,  and 
reduce  him  to  good  behaviour,  by  beating  th  e  ground 
witli  large  sticks.  Tongaloer,  the  god  of  the  sky, 
and  Fenoulonga,  of  the  rain,  they  suppose  to  be  males; 
besides  these,  they  have  a  great  many  others  of  both 
sexes,  over  earth,  sea,  and  sky ;  each  acting  in  their 
proper  sphere,  and  sometimes  counteracting  one 
another,  according  as  interest  or  inclination  leads  them. 
They  acknowledge  the  existence  of  a  great  number 
of  strange  gods,  calling  them  by  the  general  name  of 
Fyga,  among  whom  they  rank  ours  as  the  greatest ; 
aid,  when  they  think  it  will  answer  their  purpose, 
they  will  readily  acknowledge  him  as  far  wiser,  and  in 
every  respect  better,  than  theirs,  having  taught  us  to 


(  1«»  ) 

make  so  much  better  ships,  tools,  cloth,  &e.  than  they 
have  ever  been  able  to  do.  Besides  these,  they  ima- 
gioe  every  individual  to  be  under  the  power  and  con- 
trol of  a  spirit  peculiar  to  himself,  which  they  call 
odooa,  who  interests  himself  in  all  their  concerns,  but, 
like  Calla  Filatonga,  is  little  regarded  till  angry,  when 
they  think  he  inflicts  upon  them  all  the  deadly  dis- 
orders to  which  they  are  subject ;  and  then,  to  appease 
him,  the  relations  and  other  connexions  of  the  alHicted 
person,  especially  if  he  be  a  chief,  run  into  all  the  in- 
human practices  of  cutting  off  their  little  fingers,  beat- 
ing their^faces,  and  tabooing  themselves  from  certain 
kinds  of  food.  Human  sacrifices  are  not  much  prac- 
tised, though,  at  our  arrival,  we  were  informed  by  Am- 
bler that  when  a  great  chief  lay  sick  they  often  strangled 
their  women,  to  the  number  of  three  or  four  at  a  time. 
When  the  odooa  is  inexorable,  the  death  of  the  per- 
son is  inevitable  and  sure,  and  the  surviving  friends 
seem  for  a  short  time  inconsolable ;  but  their  grief 
"  is  soon  changed  into  the  opposite  extreme,  and  they 
run  into  as  great  extravagances  in  their  feasts  as  when 
the  sorrowful  passions  prevailed  they  inflicted  on 
themselves  suflerings. 

They  believe  the  immortality  of  the  soul,  which,  at 
death,  they  say,  is  immediately  conveyed  in  a  very 
large  fast-sailing  canoe  to  a  distant  country  called 
Doobludha,  which  they  describe  as  resembling  the 
Mahometan  paradise.  They  call  the  god  of  this  re- 
gion of  pleasure  Higgolayo,  and  esteem  him  as  the 
greatest  and  most  powerful  of  all ;  the  rest  being  no 
better  tlian  servants  to  him.    This  doctrine,  however, 


(     1*8     ) 

is  wholly  confined  to  the  chiefs,  for  the  tooas  (or  lower 
order)  cau  give  do  account  whatever;  as  they  reckon 
the  enjoyments  of  Doobludha  above  their  capacity^  so 
they  seem  never  to  thini  of  what  may  become  of 
them  after  they  have  served  the  purposes  of  this  life. 

Though  they  are  more  industrious  than  most  of 
their  neighbours  scattered  about  this  sea,  yet  far  the 
greater  part  of  their  time  is  spent  in  idleness.  They 
express  an  earnest  desire  for  our  woollen  cloths,  es- 
pecially  blankets ;  which  induces  us  to  think,  if  they 
had  materials,  and  the  least  hint  how  to  make  use  of 
them,  they  would  soon  endeavour  to  manufacture 
them  themselves. 

.  Some  of  their  canoes  are  executed  in  a  style  far 
superior  to  those  of  Otaheite,  the  planks  being  feather- 
edged,  and  lapped  over,  which  prevents  the  water  en- 
tering as  it  continually  does  into  the  others.  They 
make  less  cloth,  but  more  matting,  than  the  Otaheiteans, 
and  it  is  more  neatly  and  beautifully  made :  they  use 
it  to  cov^r  their  floors  as  well  as  for  dress.  Their 
basket  work  discovers  much  ingenuity,  and  they  glaze 
their  cloth  so  as  to  resist  wet.  Unlike  the  natives  of 
Otaheite,  they  are  thankful  for  what  they  receive, 
and  express  their  gratitude  by  lifting  it  over  their 
heads. 

They  observe  great  cleanliness  in  cooking,  which 
the  Missionaries  had  an  opportunity  of  discovering  in 
having  a  mess  of  hoti  prepared  at  their  own  house  by 
one  of  the  natives. 

Hoti  is  a  dish  in  great  request  among  the  chiefs :  it 
is  made  by  pouring  cocoa-nut  milk  into  a  wooden  bowl, 


:?Mf 


#■ 


«7a 


(    1S9    ) 

and  scraping  out  the  kernel  with  a  shell ;  gee  root  is 
bruised  into  the  milk,  and  remains  till  the  latter  has 
derived  a  delicious  sweetness  from  it ;  the  root  is  then 
taken  out  of  the  milk,  and  the  kernel  mixed  with  it, 
which  makes  a  very  rich  mess. 

While  the  ship  remained  in  the  harbour,  some  of  the 
officers  paid  a  visit  to  the  principal  chief,  Futtafaihe, 
who  accompanied  them  to  the  fiatookas  of  his  ances- 
tors :  they  lie  ranged  in  a  line  eastward  from  his  house, 
among  a  grove  of  trees,  and  are  many  in  number,  and 
of  different  constructions;  some  were  square,  and  not 
raised  above  the  level  of i the  ground;  a  row  of  large 
stones  formed  the  sides,  and  at  each  corner  two  high 
stones  were  placed  upright  at  right  angles  to  each 
other,  and  in  a  line  with  their  respective  sides :  others 
like  that  of  Moomooe,  which  is  a  mount  rising  with  a 
gentle  slope  about  seven  feet,  and  is  one  hundred  and 
twenty  yards  in  circumference  at  the  base;  upon  the 
top  stands  a  house  neatly  made,  thirty  feet  long  and 
fifteen  wide.  The  roof  is  thatched,  and  the  sides  and 
ends  left  open.  In  the  middle  of  this  hou^e  is  the 
grave ;  the  sides,  ends,  and  bottom  of  which  are  of  coral 
stone,  with  a  cover  of  the  same ;  the  floor  of  the  house 
is  of  small  stones:  the  etooa  and  other  trees  grow 
round  the  fiatooka.  A  third  sort  were  built  square 
like  the  first ;  the  largest  of  which  was  at  the  base 
one  hundred  and  fifty-six  feet  by  one  hundred  and 
forty ;  it  had  four  steps  from  the  bottom  to  the  top, 
that  ran  quite  round  the  pile :  one  stone  composed  the 
lieight  of  each  step,  a  part  being  sunk  in  the  ground ; 
ftnd  some  of  these  stones  in  the  wall  of  the  lower  ioi- 


(    180    ) 

meosely  large ;  one,  which  was  measured,  was  tweutjr- 
four  feet  by  twelve,  and  two  feet  thick ;  these,  Futtar 
faihe  said,  were  brought  in  double  canoes  from  tlie 
island  of  Lefooga.  They  are  coral  stone,  and  are 
hewn  into  a  tolerably  good  shape,  with  respect  to  the 
straightness  of  their  sides  and  the  flatness  of  their 
surfaces.  They  are  now  so  hardened  by  the  weather, 
that  the  great  difficulty  in  breaking  a  piece  off  one 
comer  made  it  not  easy  to  conjecture  how  the  labour  of 
hewing  them  at  first  had  been  effected ;  as,  by  the  marks 
of  antiquity  which  some  of  them  bear,  they  must  have 
been  built  long  before  the  natives  had  an  iron  tool. 
Besides  tlie  trees  which  grow  on  the  top  and  sides  of 
most  of  them,  there  are  the  etooa,  and  a  variety  of 
other  trees  about  them ;  and  these,  together  with  the 
thousands  of  bats  which  hang  on  their  branches,  con- 
tribute to  the  awful  solemnity  of  those  sepulchral 
mansions  of  the  ancient  chiefs.  Fultafaihe  told  them 
that  all  the  fiatookas  they  had  seen  were  built  by  his 
ancestors,  who  also  lay  interred  in  them ;  and  as  there 
appeared  no  reason  to  doubt  the  tnith  of  this,  it  proves 
that  a  supreme  power  in  the  government  of  the  island 
must  for  many  generations  liave  been  in  the  family  of 
the  Futtafaihes ;  for  though  there  were  many  fiatookas 
in  the  island,  they  were  not  to  be  compared  with  these 
for  magnitude,  either  in  the  pile  or  the  stones  which 
compose  them. 

Mooa,  where  Futtafaibe's  house  stands,  is  a  beauti- 
ful place.  Proceeding  from  the  lagoon  about  a  quar- 
ter of  a  mile  through  fenced  lanes,  a  spacipus  square 
green  about  half  a  furlong  wide  opens  itself:  at  the 


'N 


(    161    ) 


farther  end  of  which  the  dwelling  stands:  on  tlie  sain6 
green,  which  is  as  smooth  as  if  rolled,  a  few  large 
spreading  trees  grow  in  an  irregular  disposition.     On 
the  east  side  is  a  neat  fence  enclosing  the  long  grove 
where  the  fiatookas  stand ;  on  the  west  are  the  dwell- 
ings of  different  chiefs  in  their  enclosures ;  and  along 
the  north  or  lower  side  of  the  square  the  great  road 
runs  from  one  end  of  the  island  to  the  other :  this  road 
is  in  general  about  six  or  seven  yards  wide ;  but  east- 
ward from  the  green,  and  for  half  a  mile,  it  is  not 
less  than  sixty  yards  wide.     In  this  part  there  is  a 
range  of  trees  as  large  and  spreading  as  the  largest 
English  oaks;  and  as  thj^ir  branches  meet  at  the  top, 
and  quite  exclude  the  sun's  rays,  a  pleasant  walk  is 
afforded  by  their  shade. 

On  the  29th  of  April  tfieS^issionaries  were  inform- 
ed that  Moomooe  departed  this  life  about  four  oVlock 
in  the  morning.  Many  people  passed  with  their  faces 
bruised,  and  blood  running  down  their  cheeks :  in- 
stead of  cloth  they  wore  matting  round  them,  and  a 
twig  of  the  chesnut-tree  about  their  necks;  this  is 
their  mourning  dress.  About  three  oVlock  the  body 
of  the  deceased  king  was  carried  past,  at  a  small  dis- 
tance from  the  beach ;  it  was  laid  on  a  kind  of  bier 
made  of  the  boughs  of  trees,  and  supported  by  about 
twenty  men;  several  relatives  of  the  deceased  pre- 
ceded the  corpse  in  their  mourning  dresses ;  some  of 
them  had  cut  their  heads  with  sharks'  teeth,  and  the 
,  blood  was  running  in  streams  down  their  faces.  Be- 
hind the  corpse  was  a  multitude  of  people  of  both 
sexes.    A  female  chief  called  Fefene  Duatonga,  who 

P2 


(    I«2    ) 

is  very  corpulent,  was  carried  on  a  kind  of  frame 
made  of  two  long  bamboos,  between  which  jhe  sat  on 
a  piece  of  matting,  and  was  borne  by  four  men. 
Near  her  Futtafaihe  walked;  and  next  them  two 
women,  who  were  devoted  to  be  strangled  at  the  fune- 
ral :  one  was  weeping,  but  the  other  appeared  little 
concerned;  they  were  wives  of  the  deceased.  The 
body  was  deposited  for  the  present  in  a  house  near  the 
fiatooka,  which  was  hung  round  with  black  cloth,  and 
carried  thither  for  the  purpose. 

To  the  left  of  the  tomb,  without  the  enclosure,  sat 
about  four  hundred  people ;  the  major  part  of  them 
men,  for  whom  yava  was  brewing.  Opposite  to 
these  were  placed  five  large  roasted  hogs,  twenty  bas- 
kets of  roasted  yams,  and  about  one  hundred  pieces 
of  mai,  (or  maliie,)  the  sour  paste.  A  few  paces  fromr 
the  provisions  sat  seven  or  eight  men,  who  were 
tabooed,  and  exempt  from  cutting  themselves.  One  of 
these  gave  ordera  concerning  the  disposal  of  the  hogs, 
yams  and  yava;  all  that  drank  of  the  latter  were 
mentioned  by  name,  by  a  person  appointed  to  that 
otf  ce  by  Fefene  Dnatonga,  who  seemed  to  have  the 
management  of  the  funeral.  They  did  not  forget  the 
IMissionaries;  but  in  dealing  out  the  liquor  sent  them 
a  part,  which  they  gave  to  the  natives  that  sat  by 
them.  Persons  of  both  sexes  seated  themselves  in 
dilTerent  parts  of  the  ground,  beating  their  faces 
dreadfully ;  and,  after  having  emptied  two  bowls  of 
yava,  dispersed. 

The  2d  of  May  was  appointed  for  the  funeral  of 
IVIoomooe,  and  Mr.  Broomhall  accompanied  Ambler 


to 
tb 
tc 
h( 
ai 
a 

• 

1 


(     163    ) 

to  observe  their  ceremonies,  and  found  about  four 
thousand  persons  sitting  round  the  place  where  the  fia- 
tooka  stands.  A  few  minutes  after  their  arrival  they 
heard  a  great  shouting  and  blowing  of  conch-shells 
at  a  small  distance ;  soon  after  about  a  hundred  men 
appeared,  armed  mih  clubs  and  spears,  and  rushing 
into  the  area,  began  to  mangle  themselves  in  a  most 
dreadful  manner :  many  struck  their  heads  violently 
with  their  clubs;  and  repeated  the  blows,  which 
might  be  heard  thirty  or  forty  yards  off,  till  the  blood 
ran  down  in  streams.  Others  who  had  spears,  thrust 
them  through  their  thighs,  arms  and  cheeks,  all  the 
while  calling  on  the  deceased  in  a  most  affecting  man- 
ner. A  native  of  Feejee,  who  had  been  a  servant  of 
the  deceased,  appeared  quite  frantic ;  he  entered  the 
area  with  fire  in  his  hand,  and  having  previously  oil- 
ed his  hair,  set  it  on  fire,  and  ran  about  with  it  all  on  ' 
flame.  When  they  had  satisfied  themselves  with  this 
torment,  they  sat  down,  beat  their  faces  with  their 
fists,  and  retired.  A  second  party  went  through  the 
same  cruelties ;  and  after  them  a  third  entered,  shout-  - 
ing  and  blowing  the  shells;  four  of  the  foremost  held 
stones  which  they  used  to  knock  out  their  teeth; 
those  who  blew  the  shells  cut  their  heads  with  them 
in  a  shocking  manner.  A  man  that  had  a  spear  run 
it  through  his  arm  jiist  above  the  elbow,  and  with  it 
sticking  fast  ran  about  the  area  for  some  time.  Ano- 
ther, who  seemed  to  be  a  principal  chief,  acted  as  if 
quite  bereft  of  his  senses;  he  ran  to  every  corner  of 
the  area,  and  at  each  station  beat  his  head  with  a  club 
till  the  blood  flowed  down  his  shoulders.      Mr. 


(    164    ) 

Broomhall,  unable  to  bear  the  scene  any  longer,  re- 
turned home.  At  two  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  four  of 
the  Missionaries  went  to  the  fiatooka,  where  the  natives 
of  both  sexes  were  still  cutting  and  mangling  them- 
selves. They  had  not  been  long  there  before  they 
heard  low  but  expressive  sounds  of  the  deepest  sor- 
row and  lamentation :  this  was  a  party  of  about  one 
hundred  and  forty  women  marching  in  single  file, 
each  bearing  a  basket  of  sand ;  eighty  men  followed 
in  the  same  manner,  with  each  two  baskets  of  coral 
sand,  and  sung,  as  they  marched,  words  importing, 
"  This  is  a  blessing  to  the  dead;*'  and  were  answered 
in  responses  by  the  women.  Another  company  of 
women  brought  a  large  quantity  of  cloth,  and  answer- 
ed in  their  turn.  These  three  bands  walked  towards 
the  tomb,  filling  or  covering  that  part  of  the  mount 
between  the  house  and  the  place  where  the  corpse 
lay,  and  tlie  grave,  with  fine  mats  and  cloth ;  after 
which  seven  men  blew  conch-shells,  while  others  sung 
in  a  doleful  strain,  expressive  of  the  most  heart-felt 
grief.  The  corpse  was  now  conveyed  to  the  grave 
upon  a  large  bale  of  black  cloth,  with  which,  and  fine 
mats,  they  covered  it.  The  bearers,  as  they  went, 
walked  stooping  low,  and  carrying  the  bale  in  their 
hands.  Whilst  these  services  were  performing,  a 
company  of  men  and  women  came  into  the  area,  and 
cut  themselves  dreadfully.  After  them  another  file 
of  females,  nineteen  in  number,  brought  each  a  bag 
of  their  most  valuable  articles;  and  twenty-one  more 
had  each  a  fine  mat  in  their  hands,  all  of  which  they 
deposifed  in  the  tomb,  being,  as  they  call  it,  a  present 


{    185    ) 

for  the  dead;  and  immediately  after  came  a  preseut 
from  Toogahowe,  oonsistiag  of  thirty-five  bales  of 
elotb,  each  bale  carried  by  four  men  on  a  frame. 
After  the  presents  another  party  of  mourners  en- 
tered the  area,  sixteen  of  ivhom  had  recently  cut 
their  little  fingers  off;  these  were  followed  by  another 
party  with  clubs  and  spears,  who  beat  themselves  as 
before  described,  and  disfigured  their  faces  with 
cocoa-nut  husks  fixed  on  the  knuckles  of  both  hands. 
We  noticed  that  those  who  had  held  offices,  or  were 
related  to  the  deceased,  were  the  most  cruel  to  them- 
selves; some  of  whom  thrust  two,  three,  and  even 
four  spears  into  their  arms,  and  so  danced  round  the 
area,  and  some  broke  the  ends  of  the  spears  in  their 
flesh.  The  grave  was  covered  with  a  hewn  stone 
about  eight  feet  long,  four  bi*oad  and  one  thick :  this 
stone  they  had  suspended  with  two  large  ropes,  which 
went  round  two  strong  piles  drove  into  the  ground  at 
the  end  of  the  house,  and  thence  led  to  the  area, 
where  about  two  hundred  men  held  by  them ;  and 
whilst  they  lowered  it  slowly,  women  and  children 
wept  aloud,  or  sung  words  importing,  '<  My  father, 
my  father !  the  best  of  chiefs,"  &c.  More  cloth  was 
then  brought  to  be  put  into  the  tomb;  and  another 
party  entered|,  and  abused  themselves  as  before.  Af- 
ter these  paroxysms  of  grief  they  sat  awhile  in  si- 
lence; and  when  they  had  pulled  the  rope  clear  off 
tlie  stone  which  covered  the  grave,  those  on  the 
mount  gave  a  great  shout,  which  was  answered  by  a 
general  tearing  of  the  leaves  from  the  necks  of  all 
present;  after  which  they  dispersed. 
Their  amusements  soon  succeeded  their  violent  ex* 


(     166    ) 

pressious  of  grief,  for  on  the  12tli  of  May  a  great 
Iieiva  or  niai  vas  performed  at  the  fiatooka  of  Moo- 
mooe;  fiiut  bv  womea  in  their  best  varments  and 
finest  mats :  pieces  of  our  cloth  or  silk  were  added  as 
ornaments;  the  perfumed  cocoa-nut  oil  dropping  from 
their  hair.  Two  drums,  and  a  vocal  concert  of  men 
sitting  round,  accompanied  the  women,  who  also  sung 
and  danced,  performing  different  evolutions  in  a  most 
graceful  manner.  An  old  chief  at  intervals  called  out, 
"  fy fog*>c,'*  or,  encore ;  and  sometimes  **  marea,"  or, 
well  done. 

About  a  fortnight  after  this  entertainment,  the  great 
toomai  was  performed  by  men  dressed  in  their  finest 
robes,  and  mats  ornamented  with  feathers,  beads, 
shells,  &c.;  the  drums  called  tarafTe  sounding,  ac- 
companied by  a  chorus  of  performers  singing,  and 
holding  3  their  hands  an  instrument  like  a  paddle, 
called  doboche,  about  two  feet  and  a  half  long,  with  a 
short  handle ;  making  curious  flourishes,  with  corre- 
sponding motions  and  dilTerent  attitudes ;  those  around 
them  joining  in  the  chorus.  They  began  in  three 
lines,  and  shifted  by  various  evolutions,  till  those  in 
the  rear  became  the  front,  moving  in  exact  time,  and 
with  a  graceful  step. 

While  the  Missionaries  remained  upon  the  island, 
the  great  enudee,  or  natche,  described  by  Cook,  was 
held  at  Mooa.  Men  in  procession  carried  a  yam 
suspended  on  a  pole;  others,  armed  with  spears,  cried 
aloud  to  this  effect,  "  Take  care  to  keep  the  road 
clear  ;^*  and  all  passengers  stood  at  a  consiflerable  dis- 
tance. Ambler  assured  them  this  was  a  thanksgiving 
tp  the  odooa  for  the  late  ripe  yams.    They  were  in* 


! 


<  1«'  ) 

vited  to  join  the  procession,  but  did  not  clioose  to 
make  their  shoulders  bare,  which  was  required,  and 
to  wear  the  jeejee,  a  wreatli  of  the  leaves  of  a  shrub 
called  jee,  around  their  waist.  Particular  honour  is 
paid  to  Futtafaihe  on  this  occasion.  The  same  cere- 
monies are  repeated  at  the  season  of  early  ripe  yams. 
The  ceremonial  closes  with  an  amusement  called  fa- 
targa,  like  cudgel-playing,  being  single  combat  with 
the  limbs  of  the  cocoa-nut  tree. 

In  fencing  and  cultivating  their  lands,  which  are  in 
general  level,  they  lay  them  out  in  fields  or  smaller 
enclosures,  called  abbeys,  and  some  still  less,  which 
surround  the  houses,  called  ladores.  Their  fences 
are  reeds,  set  in  a  trench,  plaited  close,  and  fastened 
to  stakes  on  the  inside,  which  take  root  and  grow: 
they  contain  banana-trees,  or  yams,  set  in  rows  three 
feet  asunder;  between  the  rows  the  yava  root  was  cul- 
tivated, or  the  talloo,  another  esculent  root;  but  the 
uncultivated  parts  are  very  foul,  and  overgrown  with 
weeds  and  grass.  Their  mode  of  working  is  to  squat 
down  on  their  hams,  and  hoe  the  ground  with  an  in- 
strument of  hard  wood,  about  five  feet  long,  narrow, 
with  sharp  edges,  and  pointed ;  with  this  also  they  dig 
it  up. 

These  people,  like  the  other  nations  of  the  South 
Sea  Islands,  salute  by  touching  noses,  and  show  re- 
spect to  their  superiors  by  embracing  and  kissing 
of  their  feet. 


(     108    ) 


CHAPTER  VII. 


Mr.  Campbell  arrives  from  Calcutta.— IKffieulties  in  adjusting 
our  affain.— A  judicial  contesti^-^The  ivriter  is  sent  to  prison. 
—Makes  his  escape,  and  subsequent  difficulties.— -Brought 
back  to  the  prison,  and  finally  liberated  by  the  kind  interpo- 
ntion  of  Capt  W.  Wilson  of  the  ship  Royal  Admiral.— Capt. 
Wilson  presents  the  writer  -with  the  office  of  purser,  ke.  on 
board  his  ship.— -Description  of  the  colony.— •Climates- 
Productions^— -Colonists.— Natives,  6ic. 


At  length  signal  was  made  by  hoisting  the  English 
ensign  on  the  south  head  of  the  harbour  for  a  ship  in 
Bight,  and  was  repeated  in  the  town  of  Sydney ;  by 
which  the  inquisitive  disposition  of  the  colonists  was 
much  excited  to  learn  of  what  nation,  what  news,  what 
commerce,  &c.  As  I  was  standing  on  the  rocks  in 
company  with  some  of  the  officers,  it  was  declared  by 
several  that  it  was  the  Hunter,  but  owing  to  some 
variation  of  the  rigging,  I  differed  from  their  opinion. 
However,  as  the  vessel  neared  the  harbour,  all  doubts 
on  this  subject  were  soon  removed,  by  the  arrival  of 
the  pilot,  who  gave  information  that  the  vessel  was  the 
Hunter,  laden  with  a  general  investment  for  the  colo- 
ny, and  that  Mr.  Campbell  was  on  board.   Bustle  and 


(    169    ) 

confusion  followed  the  receipt  of  thh  intelligeace  on 
my  part,  as  the  house  was  not  in  the  most  comfortable 
condition  for  his  reception,  and  the  idea  of  his  being 
made  acquainted  with  the  losses  sustained  by  the  rob- 
bery, created  no  small  share  of  perturbation  in  my 
mind.     An    interview   was  necessary  immediately; 
therefore,  having  procured  a  boat,  I  went  on  board 
and  was  kindly  received  by  Mr.  C.  and  by  him  in- 
troduced to  the  captain  and  oillcers :  when  these  cere- 
monies were  over,  Mr.  C.  and  myself  withdrew  into 
his  cabin,  when  various  interrogatories  ensued  as  to 
his  affairs  on  shore,  the  state  of  the  market  for  East- 
India  produce,  &c.  respecting  which  was  received 
the  necessary  information.     It  appeared,  however, 
that  Mr.  C.  had  received  some  hints  from  the  pilot 
about  the  condition  of  his  affairs;  but  little  notice  was 
taken  of  them  then.    Mr.  C.  communicated  his  inten- 
tion of  remaining  onboard  until  the  next  day,  when  he 
would  take  possession  of  his  house :  this  informatiOQ 
was  gratifying,  as  further  time  was  thereby  afforded 
to  have  the  house  properly  cleaned,  and  put  in  better 
order  for  his  accommodation.    To  effect  which  the 
greater  part  of  the  afternoon  and  night  was  occupied. 
On  the  morrow  Mr.  C.  came  ashore  with  the  cap- 
tain, their  attendants  bringing  some  of  their  effects; 
but,  on  entering  the  house,  their  noses  were  saluted 
with  the  smell  of  some  Spanish  liquor  which  had  been 
accidentally  spilled  on  the  floor,  and  notwithstanding 
all  our  washing  and  scrubbing,  the  disagreeable  smell 
could  not  for  some  days  be  removed.     Tiiis  accident 
was  unpleasant,  as  the  house,  from  that  circumstance, 


mB*l   MF'  -  »'l'l" 


«tfii#«w*«'**'^>a*«*<** 


(     170     ) 

was  more  like  a  grog-shop  than  the  residence  of  an 
East-India  merchant. 

Mr.  C.  after  having  made  his  situation  as  comforta- 
ble as  possible,  commenced  the  sale  of  the  Hunter's 
cargo ;  but  it  did  not  sell  to  so  great  advantage  as  the 
first  investment.  I  was  now  requested  to  render  an 
account  of  sales,  and  of  the  remaining  stock :  on  ma- 
king it  out  (for  want  of  better  information)  I  charged 
sbout  half  of  the  loss  sustained  by  the  robbery  to  my- 
self, supposing  that  the  commission  on  the  sales  would 
enable  me  bear  it ;  but  the  result  proved  contrary  to 
my  expectations.  Having  deducted  15  per  cent, 
commission  on  the  sales,  the  account  was  rendered, 
when  Mr.  C.  appeared  highly  offended,  and  express- 
ed his  determination  to  resist  the  claim  in  public 
court;  and  I  expressed  an  equal  determination  to 
support  it.  It  will  be  necessary  to  remark,  on  the 
preceding  charge,  that  15  per  cent,  may  appear  exor- 
bitant to  many;  but  when  we  consider  the  immense 
profits  arising  on  the  sale  of  goods  in  that  country, 
the  expense  of  clothing,  provision,  &c.  and  the  length 
of  time  my  employer  was  absent,  as  well  as  the  gene- 
ral rate  of  commission,  it  will  appear  that  the  above 
charge  is  only  half  of  what  the  court  before  whom 
this  cause  was  to  be  decided,  had  previously  allowed ; 
I  therefore  remained  easy  as  to  the  result.  As  a  pre- 
cedent for  the  propriety  of  my  charge,  I  may  observe 
that  a  vessel  was  freighted  to  Norfolk  Island,  the 
captain  of  which  claimrd  of  the  owners  of  the  invest- 
ment 30  per  cent.,  independent  of  tlie  freight  for  the 
vessel,  provisions,  and  current  expenses :  the  owners 


(  nl  ) 

objected  to  the  demand — ^the  dispute  was  in  coase- 
quence  referred  to  a  judicial  contest,  when  the  court 
allowed  the  claimant  his  full  demand. 

I  proposed  to  Mr.  C.  to  have  the  subject  amicably 
adjusted  by  arbitration ;  but  this  mode  was  perempto- 
rily rejected.     Accordingly  the  suit  was  brought  be- 
fore the  court  at  Sydney,  (composed  of  the  judge  ad- 
vocate, and  two  military  officers,  but  no  jurymen,) 
when,  on  an  investigation,  they  adjudged  me  5  per 
cent,  only,  to  the  great  astonishment  of  every  person 
present.     From  this  court  I  appealed  to  the  governor, 
who  differed  from  the  decision  of  the  court,  by  au 
allowance  considerably  in  my  favour.     The  result  of 
these  litigations  left  me  involved  in  debt,  and  lu  the 
hands  of  an  inexorable  creditor,  who  ahowed  a  deter- 
mined resolution  to  confine  his  poor  debtor  till  the 
utmost  farthing  was  paid.     The  provost  marshal  re- 
ceived hia  warrant  to  commit  me  to  prisoo  f  but  ra- 
ther than  deposite  me  in  that  dreary  abode^  he  very 
humanely  took  me  to  his  own  house,  where  I  resided 
a  week  as  his  prisoner.    But  Mr.  C.  hearing  of  my 
being  so  comfortably  accommodated  in  the  provost 
marshaPs  house,  instead  of  the  common  prison,  inter- 
posed his  influence  with  the  governor  tO' alter  my  re- 
sidence, who  accordingly  ordered  me  to  be  confined 
in  the  gaol.     On  my  arrival  at  this  habitation  I  was 
formally  led  into  a  spacious  apartment,  among  the 
society  of  convicts,  with  whom  I  lived  about  a  week; 
some  of  these  tenants  endeavouring  to  console  me  un- 
der these  depressing  circumstances,   by  ob8er\ing, 
"  that  when  I  had  counted  all  the  stones,  bars  and 


^ 


i)     i 


(     ]'2     ) 

bolts  of  the  prison-house^  I  might  then  expect  to  be 
liberated^"  Indeed,  there  was  too  much  reason  to 
apprehend  the  correctness  of  their  remarks ;  for,  from 
the  disposition  of  my  creditor,  I  could  not  entertain 
any  reasonable  expectations  of  deliverance.  Kot 
liking  my  lodgings  and  company  Terj  well,  I  solicited 
the  provost  marshal  to  appoint  my  abode  in  a  more 
retired  part;  he  recommended  me  to  one  of  the  cells ; 
which  I  readily  accepted.  Having  taken  possession 
of  this  deposite  for  condemned  criminals,  I  found  my 
situation  much  more  comfortable  and  retired  than 
could  well  be  looked  for  in  a  prison ;  for,  having  a 
comfortable  bed,  chair,  table,  books,  pens,  ink,  paper, 
and  an  abundtmce  of  provisions  sent  by  a  friend  re- 
gularly three  times  a  day,  made  my  situation  envi- 
able by  many  of  my  companions  in  distress.  The 
door  of  my  cell  was  opened  at  sunrise,  and  locked 
again  at  sunset;  and  frequently,  by  rewarding  my 
keeper,  I  obtained  the  gratification  of  the  door  being 
left  open  till  0  or  10  o'clock.  After  a  confinement  of 
about  three  weeks,  some  merchants  (Messrs.  Boston, 
Palmer,  and  Ellis)  purchased  a  ship  called  the  PlumOy 
which  had  been  taken  from  the  Spaniards,  on  the 
coast  of  Peru,  by  an  English  whaler,  and  brous:ht  to 
this  port  for  adjudication  and  sale.  They  informed 
me  that  after  completely  refitting  the  vessel,  they  in- 
tended to  proceed  to  New  Zealand  for  a  cargo  of 
■pars,  which  they  designed  to  ship  to  the  Cape  of 
Good  Hope.  These  gentlemen  being  fully  acquaint- 
ed with  my  circumstances,  and  convinced  that  I  was 
fliilfering  under  the  hands  of  injustice  and  oppression, 


^ 


(     173     ) 

kindly  offered  me  a  passage  in  their  ship,  provided  I 
could  make  my  escape  from  prison :  pointing  out  Jar- 
vis's  Bay,  about  80  miles  south,  as  our  place  of  refuge 
till  the  vessel  was  ready,  which  would  be  in  about 
three  weeks,  when  we  might  expect  her.  They  fur- 
ther observed  that  as  the  repeated  efforts  of  my  friends 
towards  effecting  an  accommodation  with  Mr.  C.  had 
proved  fruitless,  no  person  could,  consistent  with  the 
feelings  of  justice  arid  humanity,  censure  my  conducL 
When  reflecting  on  this  invitation,  and  the  gloomy 
prospect  of  continual  imprisonment,  I  came  to  the  de- 
termination of  effecting  my  deliverance,  if  possible, 
though  many  insurmountable  difficulties  of  escaping 
were  presented;  for  the  prison  was  well  guarded, 
and  the  whole  surrounded  by  a  brick  wall,  about  12 
ieet  high ;  but,  notwithstanding  these  obstructions,  my 
thoughts  were  wholly  occupied  on  the  most  effectual 
mode.  Sometimes  conceiving  of  the  desperation  of 
such  an  adventure,  caused  me  frequently  to  halt  be- 
tween two  opinions:  suppositions  also,  that  the  vessel 
would  be  detained  on  my  account,  or  in  the  event  of 
my  succeeding,  the  vessel  might  probably  miss  us  on 
the  coast,  or  leave  us  in  our  exile ;  but  amidst  t]\e. 
variety  of  these  rellections,  I  at  length  came  to  the 
resolution  to  make  the  bold  attempt,  and  completely 
succeeded.  The  circumstance  that  so  favoured  my 
escape  was  remarkable,  which  was  a  tremendous  ^Jile 
of  wind,  accompanied  with  incessant  rain,  occurring 
the  day  before,  had  blown  down  a  condderable  por- 
tion of  the  gaol  wall,  leaving  only  about  5  feet  stand- 
iug  next  to  the  street.     This  occurrence  required  an 

Ci2 


nrnm 


[  iiimiiiiiwj  *ygirmmwmm*itimm 


(     IH     > 

additional  guard  of  constables ;  and  as  I  was  a  debtor 
of  considerable  magnitude,  and  suspected  by  my  cre- 
ditor and  others,  of  being  concerned  with  the  owners  of 
the  PlmiiOy  in  the  purchase  and  fitting  out  of  that  ship,  a 
constable  was  therefore  individually  set  to  watch  over 
me.  Of  this  I  was  privately  informed,  and  was  obliged 
to  act  very  cautiously.  But  the  favoured  moment  had 
now  arrived;  at  mid-day  some  dinner  was  brought 
for  Doctor  Harrold,  (one  of  the  respectable  gentle- 
men who  wci'e  transported  from  Ireland,  when  that 
unhappy  country  was  convulsed  and  desolated  by 
British  troops,)  who  was  confined  in  the  opposite  cell, 
on  a  charge  of  treasonable  practices.  During  this 
visit  to  the  priest,  my  constable,  possessing  more  cu- 
riosity than  prudence,  was  induced  to  go  also ;  when 
the  favoured  opportunity  was  instantaneously  embra- 
ced of  leaping  from  the  remaining  wall  into  the 
street.  I  then  ran  with  the  greatest  velocity  through 
the  town,  without  the  least  interruption;  though  I 
met  several  persons  who  knew  of  my  conjfinement, 
and  also  that  I  was  making  my  best  speed  fi'om 
my  gloomy  cell,  but  instead  of  arresting  my  progress, 
they  requested  me  to  walk;  fearing  that  my  flight 
would  be  sooner  noticed,  and  thereby  should  be  stop- 
ped. In  running  I  was  under  the  necessity  of  pass- 
ing a  guard-house,  and  also  a  concourse  of  people 
who  were  attending  an  auction,  among  whom  was  the 
gaoler;  but  happily  neither  took  the  lea&i  notice  of 
me.  Notwithstanding  the  previous  request  to  walk 
and  not  run,  I  did  not  alter  my  pi»ce,  but  continued 
with  the  greatest  perseverance,  until  I  had  arrived  in 


i 


\ 


(     175     ) 

Uie  woods,  Tvherein  I  was  sheltered;  I  tben  found  it 
necessary  to  stop  and  paut  for  breath.  Having  ruo 
about  two  miles  from  the  town,  I  halted  for  the  night, 
and  took  up  my  lodgings  under  a  rock.  About  mid<^ 
night  a  young  man  came  to  me,  bringing  a  blanket  and 
some  provisions  for  my  supper,  and  also  for  my  sup* 
ply  the  next  day.  This  person  had  previously  been 
made  acquainted  with  my  place  of  refuge,  and  was 
to  attend  me  to  assist  in  working  the  boat  to  Jarvis's 
Bay,  with  an  elderly  man,  who  had  lived  with  me  in 
the  capacity  of  servant. 

After  remaining  in  this  situation  two  days  and  nights, 
I  was  greatly  disturbed  by  a  flock  of  sheep  which 
were  waoderi \ig  towards  my  rock,  and  perceiving  the 
shepherd,  I  wm  fearful  of  a  discovery :  but  however 
this  passed  safely  over.  Having  had  a  boat  built, 
about  four  months  previous,  I  now  found  it  exceed- 
ingly valuable :  it  was  open,  and  nearly  twenty  feet 
in  length,  with  a  small  forecastle,  and  conveniently 
rigged.  On  the  third  day  the  boat  arrived  at  the 
place  appointed  for  embarkation,  which  was  a  small 
retired  spot  near  the  flag-staff,  on  the  south  head  of  the 
sand  beach  harbour,  laden  with  provisions,  arms,  am- 
miuiition,  fishing  tackle,  with  the  two  men  who  had 
previously  volunteered  their  services,  and  who  were 
to  take  passage  in  the  ship.  At  tlie  moment  of  em- 
barkation, we  were  greatly  alaimed  by  the  appearance 
of  two  of  the  guards  stationed  at  the  flag-staff,  who  no 
doubt  had  heard  of  my  escape,  and  having  discovered 
the  boat,  they  were  led  to  examine  the  CFaise  of  her 
coming  there :  but  happily  we  had  just  got  into  the 


fgggsfsa 


i 


(    170    ) 

boat  when  the^r  were  entering  tfie  beach,  and  aB  they* 
were  not  armed  we  proceeded  without  molestation 
from  Port  Jackson  towards  Botany  Bay.  The  dis- 
tance between  these  harbours  is  11  miles;  and  as  the 
weather  was  calm  we  were  obliged  to  row  the  whole 
distance,  which  prevented  our  arrival  at  Botany  Bay 
till  10  o'clock  P.  M. ;  having  landed  on  a  fine  beach 
on  the  south  side  of  the  bay  in  smooth  water,  we  drew 
the  boat  ashore,  and  commenced  our  camp  cooking 
for  tlie  first  time,  by  boiling  a  piece  of  pork  and  some 
biscuit,  which  we  eat  with  an  excellent  appetite.  The 
best  accommodation  for  passing  the  night  was  under 
an  old  tree  which  projected  over  the  beach ;  our  bed 
was  the  sand,  and  the  covering  two  blankets:  we  « 
were  much  harassed  by  moschetoes,  which  obliged  us 
to  keep  a  fire  through  the  night,  and  in  order  to  drive 
ofi"  these  enemies,  made  as  much  smoke  as  possible  by 
an  attention  to  the  fire,  and  supplying  it  frequently 
with  wet  sea  weeds.  We  were  here  joined  by  a  Mr. 
Desmond,  one  of  the  gentlemen  who  (for  political  dis- 
sensions) was  transported  from  Ireland,  and  was  also 
to  escape  from  his  exile  by  the  Plumo.  Mr.  D.  came 
overland  from  Sydney,  and  about  the  break  of  day 
hailed  us  from  the  opposite  shore,  where  he  embarked 
with  us.  At  sunrise  a  party  of  natives  having  dis- 
covered our  fire,  shortly  after  made  their  appearance 
and  gave  us  some  fish,  for  which  we  gave  them  some 
bbcuit ;  they  then  peaceably  took  to  their  canoes  and 
paddled  to  the  north  side  of  the  bay.  Their  visit  was 
not  very  agreeable,  for,  notwithstanding  their  profes- 
sion of  friendly  intercourse,  no  confidence  whatever 
2 


\ 


(    "7    ) 

can  be  placed  io  them;  and  we  well  knew  that 
when  information  reached  them  of  our  flight,  they 
would  be  the  first  to  make  a  discovery  of  our  hiding 
places.  Therefore,  upon  consultation,  it  was  deemed 
advisable  to  launch  the  boat  at  night,  and  proceed 
further  on  the  coast  southward,  which  we  accordingly 
did,  and  arrived  at  a  small  inlet  where  there  was  an 
alternate  sand  and  rocky  beach,  distant  from  Botany 
Bay  about  twelve  miles ;  but  owing  to  the  heavy  surf 
breaking,  it  was  thought  best  to  lay  at  an  anchor  till 
the  morning.  We  then  cast  anchor,  and  covered  our- 
selves with  the  sail  and  blankets,  and  laid  in  that 
situation  until  the  morning,  without  any  other  diffi- 
culty than  the  continual  rolling  of  the  boat,  and  the 
Doise  occasioned  by  the  seas  breaking  on  the  beach. 
At  sunrise  we  were  again  discovered  by  aqother 
party  of  natives,  who  approached  to  within  about  100 
yards  of  the  boat,  bringing  some  fish ;  but  observing 
that  they  had  their  war  spears,  and  suspecting  their 
intentions,  thought  it  good  policy  to  be  in  readiness 
to  repel  an  attack,  in  the  eveni  of  their  discovering 
any  hostile  disposition  towards  us :  in  consequence  of 
this  preparation,  the  natives  discovering  our  muskets, 
and  not  being  acquainted  with  our  design  in  visiting 
this  remote  part  of  their  coast,  they  manifested  their 
fears  by  immediately  retiring.  We  now  took  pos- 
session of  the  place,  landed  our  cargo,  and  hauled  our 
boat  over  a  small  beach ;  on  the  other  side  of  which 
was  a  pond  of  fresh  water,  where  we  sunk  her,  to  pre- 
vent her  being  -opened  by  the  heat  of  the  sun :  we 
then  carried  our  sails  and  stores  to  an  adjoining  hill. 


mmmmH 


(   iw   ) 

where  we  erected  a  but,  the  mainsail  of  the  boat  con« 
stituted  the  roof,  laid  over  an  oar,  supported  by  two 
forked  sticks,  and  enclosed  with  buslies  and  grass-^the 
same  materials  were  appropriated  to  elevate  us  a  little 
from  the  damp  earth— these,  together  with  the  blankets, 
made  a  tolerably  good  bed.  Just  beside  the  hut 
grew  a  low  crooked  tree,  part  of  which  we  cut  hori- 
zontally, making  us  thereby  a  very  good  bench  ;  be- 
ing thus  comfortably  situated,  we  concluded  to  abide  a 
few  days;  and  as  the  natives  kept  at  a  distance,  we  eu- 
tertained  the  idea  of  remaining  peaceable  and  quiet: 
Init  on  the  fourth  day  after  our  arrival  at  this  place, 
we  were  disturbed  by  the  appearance  of  some  of  the 
natives  coming  towards  us,  one  of  whom  having  fre- 
quently been  in  the  town  of  Sydney,  and  could  speak 
a  few  words  of  English  pretty  well,  was  more  bold 
than  the  rest,  in  advancing  a  little  beyond  his  brethren ; 
when  one  of  my  companions  went  to  him  unarmed, 
their  timidity  was  in  consequence  removed,  and,  in- 
stead of  hostilities,  a  friendly  intercourse  succeeded. 
These  persons  afterwards  frequently  visited  us,  when 
they  mostly  brought  presents  of  fish,  and  invited  us  to 
accompany  them  in  hunting,  which  we  occasionally 
attended  to  with  very  good  success;  having  some- 
times caught  six  or  seven  kangaroo  in  a  day.  Their 
mode  of  hundug  is  worthy  of  remark:  a  number 
of  natives  having  assembled,  tl.w-y  proceed  to  the  ap- 
pointed ground,  where  they  separate,  and  station 
themselves  at  the  distance  of  about  100  yards  from 
each  other,  encircling  a  considerable  tract  of  land. 
i)u  a  certain  signal  being  given,  they  all  make  a  great 


(    "9    ) 

noise  vrith  tlieir  voices,  and  beating  the  bushes ;  this 
rouses  the  kangaroo  from  their  lurking  places,  and  as 
they  are  a  very   timid  animal,  they  soon  take  to 
flight ;  but  it  is  almost  impossible  for  them  to  evade 
the  vigilance  of  their  pursuers,  vrho  being  stationed  at 
convenient  distances  from  each  other,  the  beast  is  soon 
discovered  by  its  bounding,  and  the  information  is  in 
an  instant  communicated  round  the  circle.     The  ani- 
mal then  attempts  a  retreat  through  the  enclosure  of 
the  hunters;   but  he  is  soon  arrested  in   his  pro- 
gress by  a  flight  of  spears,  which  are  almost  as  cer- 
tain, and  as  fatal,  at  the  distance  of  100  yards,  as  a 
musket  shot.    3eing  near  the  spot  where  a  kangaroo 
attempted  an  escape,  I  could  not  but  greatly  admire, 
and  be  astonished  at,  the  activity  and  certainty  of  the 
native  who  stood  close  by  me ;  for  when  the  animal 
was  first  discovered  it  was  making  its  retreat  in  a 
very  obscure  part  of  the  woods,  and  could  be  partly 
seen  only  at  intervals.     But  the  keen  eye  of  the  na- 
tive embraced  the  favoured  moment;  the  spear  flew 
like  lightning,  stinking  the  beast,  and  instantly  stop- 
ping its  progress;  the  spear  had  gone  through  the 
animal,  and  appeared  on  the  other  side  about  a  foot 
and  a  half.     The  kangaroo  has  excited  much  curiosi- 
ty wi'ih  the  naturalist.     There  are  several  species  of 
them,  but  differing  only  in  size  and  colour;   their 
shape  is  uniform,  their  head  considerably  resembles 
that  of  a  grayhound,  very  thin  foreparts,  with  two 
short  hands,  which  are  only  used   in  feeding;  the 
hinder  parts  are  large,  with  a  thick  tail,  and  long 
legs,  with  which  they  bound  a  great  distance.    Their 


(    "0    ) 

colour  18  generally  that  of  a  rat,  but  the  smallest  spe- 
cies is  much  darker.  The  females  have  uniformly 
an  external  bag  on  their  belly,  wherein  their  young 
are  sheltered  from  the  weather,  and  from  enemies. 
The  method  used  by  the  natives  in  throwing  the 
spear  is  very  simple,  but  effectual.  The  spears  are 
generally  about  eight  feet  in  length,  made  of  a  stout 
kind  of  reed,  and  armed  at  one  end  with  a  piece  of 
wood  pointed  very  sharp,  and  hardened  witli  fire; 
these  parts  are  firmly  secured  with  a  species  of  gum, 
which  is  used  by  softening  it  before  a  fire,  but  after* 
wards  becomes  very  hard.  In  using  the  spear,  they 
have  a  throwing  stick  about  three  feet  in  length,  with 
a  hook  at  one  end,  which  is  received  by  the  spear; 
and  with  tlie  aid  of  the  throwing  stick  their  spears 
are  frequently  thrown  upwards  of  200  yards  with 
considerable  exactness.  With  these  weapons  they 
commence  destructive  wars  with  each  other;  they  ar- 
rest the  flight  of  the  swifl  kangaroo  bounding  through 
the  woods,  and  they  also  frequently  kill  birds  flying 
through  the  air. 

We  remained  in  this  place  about  ten  days,  occupy- 
ing our  time  principally  in  hunting  with  the  natives, 
and  fishing,  by  which  our  stock  of  provisions  was 
saved,  and  our  situation  rendered  pretty  comfortable. 
This  party  of  natives,  however,  having  concluded  to 
remove  towards  the  colony,  compelled  us  to  remove 
also,  from  the  same  reason  which  existed  at  Botany  Bay. 
We  accordingly  struck  our  tent,  embarked  our  stores, 
and  proceeded  towards  Jarvis's  Bay;  but  the  wind 
being  too  strong,  and  the  seas  too  high,  we  could  not 


(  1«1  ) 

with  safetj  reach  further  than  about  12  miles,  where 
we  landed  upon  a  beach  considerably  exposed  to  the 
sea;  and  in  attempting  to  land,  a  heavy  sea  following, 
had  nearly  overwhelmed  us ;  by  which  we  were  un« 
der  the  necessity  of  leaping  out  of  the  boat,  iu  order 
to  steady  her,  and  to  prevent  her  from  immediate  de« 
struction.    With  considerable  exertion  and  difficulty 
we  succeeded  in  bringing  her  to  shore  without  any 
material  damage,  excepting  some  of  our  provisions 
and  arms  l)eing  much  wetted.     On  our  arrival  here, 
a  party  of  natives  were  seen  on  the  beach,  who  ap- 
peared much  terrified  at  our  approach,  by  imme- 
diately running  into  the  woods:  but  shortly  after 
three  of  them,  with  diffident  steps,  came  towards  us, 
whose  panic  seemed  in  some  measure  to  have  subsi- 
ded; when  they  discovered  our  pacific  disposition, 
they  beckoned  to  their  brethren,  who  directly  came, 
and  assisted  to  haul  the  boat  further  on  the  beach ; 
after  which  they  retired,  and  we  saw  no  more  of 
them.    From  our  last  habitation  a  native  boy  came 
with  us,  who  had  borrowed  a  jacket  from  one  of  my 
companions ;  who,  when  he  landed,  also  disappeared, 
taking  the  jacket  with  him,  fi'om  which  occurrence, 
we  had  reason  to  suspect  that  he  would  proceed  to- 
wards the  colony ;  when  the  appearance  of  the  jacket, 
together  with  his  broken  language,  would  make  a  dis- 
closure of  our  refuge.    However,  we  remained  here 
three  days  notwithstanding  these  reflections.     Tor 
wards    evening    we     pitched    our    tent    adjoining 
marshy  ground ;  here  we  were  dreadfully  tormented 
with  moschetoes,  being  obliged,  three  or  four  times  In 

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(     182     ) 

the  course  of  the  night,  to  buru  these  pests  to  repose ; 
but  all  attempts  to  drive  them  off  proved  fruitless; 
for  after  a  burning,  others  succeeded  the  attack,  ap- 
pai'cntly  in  greater  numbers ;  therefore  it  was  neces- 
sary to  remove  to  a  more  elevated  part  of  the  coast. 
We  accordingly  sailed  from  hence,  and  arrived  at  a 
small  beach  adjoining  a  prominent  point  of  land, 
vhere  we  designed  to  fix  our  habitation,  and  wait  the 
arrival  of  the  ship,  the  time  appointed  for  her  ap- 
pearance being  now  nearly  expired.  This  situation 
was  very  pleasant,  commanding  an  extensive  view  of 
the  ocean  towards  Fort  Jackson,  and  also  of  Jarvis's 
Bay;  it  was  therefore  deemed  a  proper  place  for  our 
residence  and  observation.  We  therefore  secured  our 
boat,  and  fixed  the  tent;  and  occasionally  attended 
to  fishing  and  hunting,  but  with  very  little  success, 
owing  to  the  want  of  experience.  Our  stock  of  pro- 
vision was  now  reduced  very  low,  which  made  it  ne- 
cessary to  come  to  short  allowance ;  but  the  hope  of 
soon  seeing  the  ship  supported  us  in  our  approaching 
difficulties.  Having  been  out  one  day  in  the  woods 
•  with  my  gun,  I  had  the  good  success  to  shoot  a  kan- 
garoo, which  I  triumphantly  brought  home,  to  the  great 
gratification  of  my  comrades,  thereby  preserving  our 
stock  of  provision  two  days  longer.  At  another  time 
being  out,  I  discovered  a  boat,  at  the  distance  of 
about  four  miles,  standing  directly  towards  us,  which 
no  doubt  was  attracted  by  the  smoke  of  our  fire. 
Upon  this  I  ran  hcmie  with  all  speed  to  give  the  in- 
formation to  my  companions';  who  were  of  opinion 
that  the  before-roentioDed  natives  had  discovered  our 


(     183     ) 

retreat,  and  that  the  boat  we  saw  was  sent  in  pursuit 
of  us  by  the  government.  We  then  proceeded  to  make 
the  best  use  of  our  little  time,  by  pulling  down  our 
tent  and  hiding  our  stores:  when  this  was  accom- 
pligh<id,  the  boat  was  within  about  a  mile  of  the  shore. 
We  then  secreted  ourselves  in  the  woods  in  sucii  a 
manner  as  to  watch  their  motions ;  and  having  a  spy- 
glass, we  could  enumerate  three  white  men  and  two 
natives,  but  was  not  able  to  recognise  any  of  their 
features.  At  length,  however,  we  distinguished  two 
of  them  to  be  our  particular  friends.  Shortly  after 
they  landed,  and  informed  us  that  they  were  sent  by 
our  friends,  to  warn  us  of  our  danger ;  that  the  na- 
tives whom  we  had  previously  suspected,  had  dis- 
covered our  situation,  and  that  it  was  necessary  we 
should  remove  immediately,  as  a  boat  was  preparing 
by  the  government,  and  was  expected  to  be  sent  after 
us  in  a  few  days  :  they  also  further  informed  us  that 
the  ship  was  not  ready,  and  not  likely  to  sail  iu  a 
fortnight;  but  at  that  time  we  might  expect  her  arri- 
val. In  the  hurry  of  despatching  this  information, 
our  friends  had  forgotten  to  send  a  supply  of  pro- 
visions ;  which,  with  the  prospect  before  us,  threw  a 
damp  over  our  cheering  expectations ;  and  we  were 
greatly  distressed  by  the  fear  of  starvation.  *'  Hope 
deferred  maketh  the  heart  sick;"  but  as  it  was  not 
altogether  extinguished,  we  endeavoured  to  bear  up 
under  the  increasing  pressure;  and  by  adding  some- 
times a  small  pittance  of  shell  fish,  with  some  native 
cabbages  to  our  little  stock  of  provisions,  we  were 


(     184    ) 


enabled  to  presenre  life ;  though  deatli  appeared  pvc» 
ferable  under  these  abject  circumstances. 

When  our  friends  liad  departed,  we  again  launched 
our  boat  and  proceeded  towards  Jarvis's  Bayj  but 
the  moment  we  had  got  into  the  boat,  a  heavy  sea 
struck  iier  on  the  bow,  which  made  us  very  wet,  and 
half  filled  our  boat  with  water.     The  wind  being 
very  strong,  wc  only  reached  about  ten  miles,  when 
we  ran  the  boat  on  a  sand  beach,  and  remained  du- 
ring the  night  and  the  next  day  for  the  purpose  of 
foraging;  but  not  being  acquainted  with  the  savage 
mode  of  living,  we  were  not  able  to  procure  any  pro- 
vision here.     As  there  were  no  cabbage  trees  in  this 
neighbourhood,  we  were  under  the  necessity  of  re- 
moving  further  down  the  toast    in  search   of  this 
tree,  as  it  was  the  only  remaining  dependance  left  for 
eur  support.     The  cabbage  tree  grows  in  great  abun- 
dance in  many  parts  of  this  coast ;  they  rise  generally 
to  the  height  of  from  20  to  40  feet,  and  in  appearance 
reBenibling  the  cocoa-nut  tree;    the  trunk  is  about 
18  inches  in  diameter.     On  the  top  is  a  collection  of 
young  leaves  formed  into  a  hard  body,  composing  a 
substance  much  like  a  white  heart  cabbage,  but  some- 
what smaller  than  an  infant's  head ;  they  satisfy  for 
about  half  an  hour,  when  hunger  succeeds  with  all  its 
rage.     The  labour  in  procuring  the  cabbage  is  very 
great,  for  the  tree,  which  is  of  a  hard  substance,  must 
first  be  cut  down,  then  the  outer  branches  carefully 
trimmed  off  before  it  can  be  obtained;   the  outer 
leaves  being  armed  with  thorns.     If  we  succeeded  in 


(    185    > 

^ettiog  one  in  half  an  hour,  it  was  thought  expeditious. 
We  were  visited  here  by  a  party  of  about  twenty 
natives,  of  whom  we  endeavoured  to  get  some  fish,  but 
without  success.  They  appeared  friendly  disposed* 
but  amidst  this  profession,  they  ran  ofT  with  a  horse 
pistol,  which  we  never  saw,  or  any  of  the  natives  af- 
terwards. 

This  barren,  desolate  neighbourhood  compelled  us 
to  make  sail  for  Jarvis's  Bay,  where  we  arrived  after 
about  eight  hours'  sailing  and  rowing.     At  the  mouth 
of  the  bay,  on  the  south  side,  is  a  small  island,  where 
we  took  up  our  residence  for  the  night.     In  the  morn- 
ing ■"  3  proceeded  to  examine   the  produce  of  this 
place,  when  in  sailing  round,  we  happily  discovered 
a  large  field  of  cabbages,  where  we  procured  about 
twenty,  with  which  we  proceeded  to  the  island  at 
the  mouth  of  the  bay,  there  fixing  our  abode,  where 
we  determined  to  wait  the  arrival  of  the  Plumo.     In 
our  researches  upon  the  island  we  found  two  native 
huts  of  a  conical  form,  one  of   which,  being  about 
eight  feet  diameter,  afforded  us  a  comfortable  habita- 
tion.    On  the  second  day  our  cabbages  were  ex- 
pended; we  were  then  obliged  to  return  to  the  field 
for  another  supply;  but,  owing  to  our  extreme  weak- 
ness, we  were  not  able  to  cut  down  more  than  twelve ; 
and  to  procure  these,  the  wliole  day  was  occupied. 
While  on  this  dreary  expedition,  a  reviving  chango; 
occurred :  a  flock  of  snipes  settled  on  a  reef  of  rocks 
just  by  our  boat:    one  of  my  companions  had  the 
good  success  to  kill  eight  of  them,  with  part  of  which 
we  were  greatly  refreshed ;  but  being  obliged  to  study 

R2 


(     186    ) 

economy,  a  reserve  of  four  was  made  till  the  next 
day.  Notwithstandiog  this  good  success  and  excel- 
lent fare,  I  am  persuaded  that  either  of  us  could  have 
devoured  double  the  Dumber  at  a  meal.  Four  of  the 
soipes  only  were  cooked  that  day :  with  the  remaiifr- 
der,  and  the  small  store  of  cabbages,  we  returned  to 
the  island;  and  as  we  had  this  stock  of  fresh  provl^ 
sions,  we  endeavoured  to  divert  each  others  minds 
from  the  gloom  and  distress  necessarily  attendant  up- 
on our  situation.  Sometimes  we  went  a  fishing,  but 
generally  without  success;  and  shooting,  but  seldom 
killed  more  than  a  seagull  in  one  or  two  days,  which, 
with  cabbages,  we  boiled  to  make  soup ;  but  when 
the  gull  was  divided,  about  three  mouthfuls  constitu- 
ted one  share.  We  had,  however,  remaining  part  of 
the  bone  of  a  leg  of  beef;  this  we  boiled  with  cab- 
bages five  or  six  times,  when,  after  we  had  boiled  it 
80  many  times  as  to  produce  no  taste  in  the  broth,  we 
divided  it  into  equal  parts,  and  each  commenced  to 
devour  his  portion :  our  stomachs  were  pretty  good 
digesters,  and  not  easily  turned.  The  time  having 
now  nearly  arrived  when  we  believed  the  ship  might 
be  expected,  our  observations  were  frequently  made ; 
but  the  more  we  looked,  the  more  our  situation  grew 
distressing.  Many  hours  we  sat  on  the  rocks,  by  the 
sea  coast,  when  every  curling  wave  of  the  ocean 
would  appear  to  strike  our  imagination  as  the  topgal- 
lant-sail of  the  vessel ;  but  alas,  these  pleasing  obser- 
vations only  increased  our  misery,  whilst  the  deject- 
ing thought  of  beiDg  left  to  be  forsaken,  sunk  us  iu 
deeper  wretchedness  and  despair.    After  living  ia 


(     187     ) 

this  iahosp'table  place  about  three  weeks,  we  were 
ODe  day  much  surprised  by  observiog  a  party  of  na- 
tives near  the  mouth  of  the  bay,  towmg  something  of 
immense  bulk  into  the  harbour;  which,  shortly 
after,  we  discovered  to  be  a  whale ;  and  from  its  pu- 
trid appearance,  we  supposed  that  it  must  have  been 
killed  at  least  three  or  four  months,  by  the  whalers  off 
the  coast.  The  natives  intended  to  secure  the  prey; 
but,  in  consequence  of  the  smallness  of  their  canoes, 
and  the  strength  of  tide  against  them,  their  efforts 
proved  fruitless.  They  were  only  able  to  procure  a 
few  pieces  of  the  flesh ;  part  of  which  they  threw  to  us 
as  they  were  passing  our  residence,  which  small  sup- 
ply was  peculiarly  refreshing;  and,  notwithstanding 
its  putrescence,  it  was  broiled,  and  eaten  with  a  de- 
lightful relish. 

As  night  was  approaching  we  did  not  launch  our 
boat,  entertaining  the  hope  that  the  whale  would  be 
drifted,  and  lodged  in  some  part  of  the  bay,  as  the 
tide  was  then  setting  in :  when  we  might  supply  our- 
selves to  the  full.  Accordingly  we  launched  the  boat 
at  break  of  day,  and  went  in  search  of  it,  sailing  and 
rowing  in  every  direction  the  whole  of  tlie  day,  but, 
to  our  great  sorrow,  we  could  not  discover  any  traces 
of  it.  We  then  judged  that  it  must  have  floated 
again  to  sea  in  the  night  tide.  In  consequence  of 
extreme  weakness,  we  were  not  able  to  reach  our 
habitation  on  the  island;  we  therefore  fixed  oui'  tent 
for  the  night :  the  distance  from  the  island  was  about 
two  miles.  The  next  morniag  a  native  dog  appeared 
on  the  beach,  about  100  yards  from  us,  when  on  his 


iiiiMi 


mtm 


(     188     ) 

approaching  a  little  nearer,  one  of  my  companions 
discharged  his  musket,  but  only  -wounded  him ;  by 
which  bad  success  our  cheering  expectations  of  being 
satisfied  with  a  boiled,  or  roasted  joint,  were  disap- 
pointed. Our  store  of  cabbages  now  failed,  which 
made  it  necessary  to  embark  on  another  voyage  to 
recruit  it ;  when,  in  sailing  towards  the  field,  we  saw 
a  flock  of  wild  ducks,  and  providentially  approached 
near  enough  to  shoot  two  of  them,  by  which  success 
we  were  supported  through  a  hard  day's  work  in  pro- 
curing cabbages :  and  were  it  not  for  a  wild  duck,  a 
snipe,  or  seagull,  here  and  there,  we  must  unquestion- 
ably have  perished.  We  were  enabled  to  procure  about 
twenty  cabbages  this  day,  with  which  we  returned 
again  to  our  island.  On  the  passage  we  were  followed 
by  a  large  shark,  whose  desires  to  seize  on  us  were 
not  greater  than  ours  to  obtain  full  possession  of  him ; 
but  unfortunately  we  had  neither  hook  nor  bait  On 
approaching  towards  the  island,  we  discovered  thir- 
teen natives  on  the  beach  where  we  designed  to  land, 
waiting  our  arrival :  they  were  all  armed  with  spears, 
and  from  their  appearance  we  had  reason  to  suspect 
that  their  designs  were  not  the  most  friendly :  how- 
ever, as  we  had  our  arms  in  readiness,  notwithstand- 
ing their  superiority  of  numbers,  we  proceeded  boldly 
to  the  shore  among  them,  when,  instead  of  an  attack, 
which  we  fully  expected,  they  laid  down  their 
spears,  ftnd  assisted  to  haul  our  boat  on  shore.  But 
here,  in  consequence  of  these  people,  commenced 
more  serious  difficulties  than  any  we  had  heretofore 
sustained;  for,  the  hatchet  which  was  used  to  procure 


(     189     ) 

the  cabbages,  and  on  which  we  wholly  depended  for 
our  existence,  laid  on  the  forecastle  of  tlie  boat,  very 
handy  for  the  natives  to  carry  off;  one  of  whom 
secured  it,  unobserved,  and  immediately  departed; 
the  others  du'ectly  followed.  As  we  did  not  discover 
the  loss  until  late  in  the  evening,  it  was  thought  im- 
probable that  the  thief  could  then  be  efTectually 
pursued,  so  as  to  regain  the  hatchet ;  and  in  the  event 
of  not  obtaining  it,  the  direful  alternative  was,  either 
voluntarily  to  yield  to  death  by  starvation,  or  of  di- 
rectly returning  to  Port  Jackson.  However,  as  thii 
was  no  time  for  long  debate  as  to  the  proper  mode  of 
procedure,  as  we  were  compelled,  by  the  most  impe- 
rious circumstances,  to  engage  in  a  desperate  adven- 
ture; to  which  we  proceeded  by  break  of  day  the 
next  morning:  but  the  invaluable  hatchet  was  for 
ever  gone.  In  pursuance  of  our  object  v.'o  went  to 
the  place  where  the  natives  had  fled ;  on  our  arri- 
val, we  only  found  an  old  man,  with  his  wife,  and  two 
children,  whom  we  kept  prisoners;  'whom  we  soon 
made  sensible  by  signs,  of  the  nature  of  our  visit 
The  old  gentleman  endeavoured  to  justify  himself, 
and  informed  us  that  it  was  gone  a  great  way  down 
the  coast.  Whereupon  he  endeavoured  to  make  his 
escape ;  but  this  we  prevented,  informing  him  that  he 
^  must  immediately  send  a  messenger  after  it,  and  that 
when  the  hatchet  was  returned  he  would  be  set  at 
liberty :  at  this  the  native  became  outrageous,  vocife- 
rating his  determination  not  to  interfere.  The  dis- 
pute had  now  arisen  to  an  alarming  height,  which 
shortly  brought  several  large  young  men  from  the 


(     190     ) 

hills  ta  his  assistance,  ivho  manifested  a  fierce  reso- 
lution to  rescue  the  old  man  from  his  confinement. 
The  deplorable  circumstances  we  were  now  in  ren- 
dered a  determination  on  our  part  to  oppose  them  ab- 
solutely necessary.     At  length  they  witlidrew  a  small 
distance  to   shelter   themselves   among   some   trees, 
when  they  commenced  an  engagement  by  a  flight  of 
spears  through  the  branches  of  the  trees  that  shel- 
tered them ;  one  of  which  had  nearly  struck  one  of 
my  companions  who  was  standing  at  the  distance  of 
about  three  yards  from  me :  this  attack  made  it  ne- 
cessary to  retreat  towards  our  boat,  and  as  they  were 
of  far  superior  numbers,  our  situation  became  very 
dangerous,  therefore,  the  open  ground  was  considered 
the  most  preferable  position.     The  first  discharge  of 
spears  was  succeeded  by  another  and  more  resolute, 
Tvhich  rp.ther  exasperating  us,  we  came  to  the  resohi- 
tion        laking  an  effort  against  them,  when  we  ascend- 
ed a  liiil  with  an  intention  of  giving  them  a  few  shots  i 
but  our  opponents  were  secreted  behind  trees,  and  it 
was  some  time  before  we  could  see  any  of  them. 
We  then  halted,  knowing  that  they  could  be  only  at  a 
short  distance,   and  not  daring  to  advance  too  far, 
fearing  that  we  might  be  totally  cut  off;  ultimately, 
however,  one  of  the  savages  showed  his  head  from 
behind  a  tree  at  the  distance  of  about  fifty  yards, 
when,  having  a  gun,  (one  barrel  of  which  was  loaded 
with  duck  and  the  other  with  swan  shot,)  I  imme- 
diately aimed  at  him,  pulling  the  swan  shot  barrel, 
which  providentially  missed  fire,  and  thereby  proved 
the  preservation  of  the  poor  Indian,  for  which  I  was 
2 


(  I'-^l  ) 


jI- 


tliankful,  as  in  the  event  of  my  being  the  iustrument 
of  his  destruction,  would  have  created  the  most  poig- 
nant affliction  in  uiy  conscience.  But,  perhaps,  as 
they  were  the  aggressors,  first  by  robbing,  and  then 
by  a  wanton  attack,  our  conduct,  we  presumed,  would 
have  been  considered  justifiable.  Upon  consulta- 
tion as  to  what  we  should  now  do,  it  was  concluded 
that  we  should  immediately  retreat  to  the  boat,  which 
we  accordingly  did,  and  arrived  at  the  island  in  the 
evening.  Having  lost  the  hatchet,  we  were  obliged 
to  proceed  direct  to  Botany  Bay  with  the  first  fa- 
vourable breeze,  designing  on  our  arrival  to  send  one 
to  Sydney  by  night,  with  information  to  our  friends 
of  our  wretched  condition,  and  to  obtain  a  supply  of 
provisions  and  another  hatchet  Accordingly,  a  light 
breeze  from  the  south  having  sprung  up  in  our  favour, 
we  launched  our  boat,  and  proceeded  towards  the 
bay;  but  the  wind  being  very  light,  and  not  being 
able  to  row,  we  only  reached  about  twenty  miles  by 
Boon ;  and  as  the  breeze  had  terminated  in  a  calm  we 
were  obliged  to  put  into  the  nearest  and  most  conve- 
nient part  of  the  coast,  intending  there  to  wait  until 
we  were  again  favoured  by  the  breeze.  During  our 
stay  here  we  wandered  in  different  directions  in 
search  of  something  to  eat,  but  for  a  considerable 
time  without  any  success.  Such  now  were  our  ne- 
cessitous circumstances,  that  the  possession  of  the 
most  rejected  of  the  animal  creation,  or  a  putrid 
whale,  would  have  been  highly  gratii^  ing  to  satisfy 
our  raging  demands  of  hunger.  The  report  of  a  gun 
was  heard  at  a  short  distance,  which  soon  collected  us 


(     102     ) 

together,  ivhen,  to  our  unspeakable  pleanure,  ooe  of  my 
compaoioDs  had  shot  two  old  m\d  ducks  and  three 
young  ones,  in  a  retired  pond  at  a  little  distance  from 
the  boat,  when  he  triumphantly  appeared  and  laid 
them  at  our  feet.  The  joy  and  satisfaction  which 
was  now  evident,  precluded  any  dispute  a<«  to  who 
should  be  the  servitor,  or  to  the  proper  mode  of  cook- 
ing them ;  our  greedy  expectations  were  entertained 
with  the  pleasurable  prospect  of  a  feast.  But  before 
we  could  commence  rooking,  the  southerly  wind, 
which  had  died  away,  again  sprung  up  in  our  favour; 
therefore,  without  waiting  for  our  entertainment,  we 
immediately  launched  our  boat,  and  proceeded  to- 
wards Botany  Bay,  in  hopes  of  arriving  there  in  the 
evening ;  refreshing  ourselves  with  tlie  idea  of  eating 
our  supper  there,  by  which  the  person  destined  to  go 
overland  to  Sydney  would  be  strengthened  for  his 
journey.  We  had  been  only  a  short  time  progressing 
towards  our  destined  port,  when  the  wind  began  to 
increase  in  strength,  and  ultimately  became  a  severe 
gale.  Our  situation  had  now  an  alarming  appearance, 
and  required  great  caution  and  ability  to  steer  the 
boat;  and,  notwithstanding  the  distance  before  us, 
(which  was  about  40  miles,)  we  were  under  the  ne* 
cessity  of  persevering,  in  consequence  of  the  coast  be- 
ing rocky  and  bold,  with  alternate  sand  beaches,  and 
the  seas  breaking  thereon  with  great  violence.  In 
this  dilemma  we  were  obliged  to  stand  before  the 
gale,  hoisting  all  possible  sail  to  keep  the  boat  free 
from  the  tremendous  tbilowing  seas,  which  were  con- 
tiaually  foaming  around  us,  and  threatening  our  de- 


.#,■• 


'^«M 


(  »»a  ) 

Htruction.   During  our  sailing  three  of  the  oars  were 
ivashed  overboard,  and  notwithstanding  our  vigilance, 
the  seas  would  frequently  break  into  the  boat,  which 
rendered  bailing  continually  necessary.     My  old  and 
faithful  servant  (Patrick  Riley)  was  so  dreadfully 
frightened,  that  he  laid  himself  on  the  bottom  of  the 
boat  in  the   bilge  water,  to  prevent  his  view  of  the 
terrific  scene ;  neither  could  we  persuade  him  to  alter 
his  situation.     At  length,  we  arrived  safe  from  the 
ocean,  at  a  small  harbour,  distant  from  Botany  Bay 
about  nine  miles  wherein  we  ran   for  shelter.      In 
turning  the  point  of  land  whicli  forms  this  port  is  a 
small  sand  beach,  completely  sheltered  from  the  pre- 
vailing gale,  whereon  we  intended  to  land  till  the 
storm  had  subsided ;  but,  to  our  great  astonishment 
ajd  confusion,  the  moment  we  had  rounded  this  point, 
we  discovered  a  long-boat,  belonging  to  the  govera- 
ir  snt,  which  we  had  no  doubt  was  sent  in  search  of  us: 
and  from  seeing  no  person  near  the  boat,  we  suspected 
that  the  crew  was  laying  in  ambush,  waiting  our  ai*- 
rival;  but  in  order  to  prevent  a  surprise,  which  we 
had  every  reason  to  suspect,  we  shaped  our  course 
up  the  harbour  to  the  westward,  intending  to  run  the 
boat  ashore,  to  take  out  the  arms,  secret  ourselves  in 
the  woods,  and  leave  the  boat  to  fall  into  the  hands  of 
our  pursuers.     But,  contrary  to  our  plan  and  deter- 
mination, the  period  had  now  arrived  when  it  was 
the  will  of  God  that  we  were  to  be  secured  and 
taken  back  again  prisoners  to  Sydney.     For,  as  we 
were  sailing  from  our  pursuers,  we  were  obliged  to 
haul  the  boat  close  upon  the  wind,  which  made  it 

S 


(     1^4    ) 

necessary  for  us  all  to  sit  on  the  windward  side,  when, 
in  standing  north,  round  a  neck  of  land  towards  a 
small  beach,  in  order  to  run  the  boat  on  shore,  and 
being  much  concerned  to  evade  the  pursuit,  the  sail 
suddenly  shifted ;  when,  in  consequence  of  our  being 
|01  on  one  side,  the  boat  immediately  capsized,  and 
sunk  to  the  bottom,  leaving  only  about  a  foot  of  the 
mast  above  the  watery  but  in  about  two  minutes  after 
the  mast  sunk,  and  the  boat  appeared  bottom  upwards. 
As  old  Patrick  Riley  was   not  able  to  swim,  this 
circumstance  proved  his  deliverance  from  a  watery 
grave.     One  of  my  companions  then  swam  to  the 
shore  to  unclothe  himself,  in  order  to  return  and  as- 
sist the  remainder  to  the  shore ;  another  followed  his 
example,  and  was  succeeded  by  myself,  leaving  poor 
Patrick  struggling  on  the  bottom  of  the  boat.  The  first 
person  was  successful  in  reaching  the  rocks,  but  the 
second   I    shortly   passed,  observing   that    he    was 
drowning,  and  though  the  distance  to  the  rocks,  which 
I  had  now  to  swim,  was  only  about  five  yards,  yet 
I  durst  not  stop  to  render  him  any  assistance ;  in  con- 
sequence of  extreme  weakness,  and  being   clothed 
with  thick  woollens,  it  was  with  exceeding  great  diffi- 
culty I  reached  the  shore  myself;  and  I  am  persuaded 
that,  if  I  had  two  yards  further  to.  swim,  I  must 
inevitably  have  sijnk.     In  climbing  up  the  rocks, 
which  were  covered  with  oyster  shells,  my  feet  were 
dreadfully  mangled :  but  notwithstanding  this  I  used 
the  greatest  expedition  to  strip  myself,  when  I  pro- 
ceeded again  into  the  water  to  bring  out  the  person 
who  was  sinking,  but  before  I  could  get  him  on 


(     195     ) 

shore  he  "was  dead.  The  person  who  first  reached 
the  shore  proceeded  to  the  assistance  of  the  old  man, 
and  succeeded  in  bringing  him  safe  to  land.  We 
were  immediately  under  the  necessity  of  leaving  the 
boat^  our  ducks,  and  our  arms  in  the  water,  and  our 
drowned  companion  on  the  rocks,  when  we  used  our 
utmost  endeavours  to  retreat  into  the  woods,  in  order 
to  hide  ourselves,  as  the  government  boat  was  now 
within  alput  a  mile  in  full  pursuit  of  us.  The  young 
man  who  first  reached  the  shore  proceeded  a  short 
distance  and  secreted  himself  under  a  rock,  where  he 
was  exposed,  in  his  wet  clothes,  through  the  night,  to 
the  chilling  south  wind ;  but,  owing  to  his  reduced 
condition,  he  was  obliged  to  surrender  himself  in  the 
morning.  Poor  old  Patrick,  determined  to  perish 
rather  than  be  retaken  prisoner,  succeeded  through 
amazing  difficulties  in  passing  to  Botany  Bay,  and 
arrived  safe  at  a  distant  settlement,  where  he  was 
secreted  by  a  friend;  and  ultimately  sailed  in  the 
Flumo.  This  affectionate  man  was  transported  from 
Ireland,  during  the  convulsed  situation  of  that  coun- 
try, on  account  of  his  political  opinions,  and  having 
a  family  there,  of  whom  he  often  spoke  in  the  most 
sympathetic  terms,  it  was  an  additional  spur  to  his 
endeavours.  He  was*  two  days  and  nights  afterwards, 
iu  this  solitary  situation,  without  the  least  particle  of 
sustenance.  When  he  arrived  at  Botany  Bay  there 
was  providentially  a  fishing  boat  within  hail;  Patrick 
succeeded  in  bringing  the  fisherman  to  his  assistance, 
who  kindly  relieved  his  necessities,  and  rowed  him 
across  the  bay.    But  to  return  again  to  my  own  his- 


(     1»6     ) 

toiy :  it  was  observed,  that  my  feet  were  much  cut, 
which,  together  with  my  weak  state  of  body,  and 
fatigue  in  bringing  my  dead  companion  out  of  the 
water,  prevented  my  effecting  an  escape ;  for,  instead 
of  using  any  exertion,  I  was  obliged  to  sit  dow^n  and 
wait  patiently  the  arrival  of  my  pursuers.  A  few 
minutes  brought  them  in  view ;  they  landed,  when 
one  of  the  men  (the  constable  who  had  charge  of  me 
in  the  prison)  hastened  towards  the  spot,  with  his 
musket  pointed  at  me,  but  the  provost  marshal,  observ- 
ing the  fellow's  attitude,  immediately  drew  his  sword, 
when  I  believe  he  would  have  cut  the  man  down 
had  he  not  desisted  from  the  least  appearance  of 
shooting  me.  The  provost  marshal  then  approached, 
demanding,  in  an  imperious  tone,  who  I  was,  and 
what  was  the  nature  of  my  business  in  this  part  of  the 
coast  ?  to  which  I  was  scarcely  able  to  reply.  I  then 
asked  respecting  his  health,  and  whether  he  had  any 
refreshments  in  their  boat;  but  the  marshal,  not  being 
accustomed  to  such  familiar  interrogatories  from  pri- 
Boners,  rebuked  me  sharply  for  my  arrogance.  From 
my  Robinson  Cn»Boe  appearance,  having  a  long  beard, 
an  emaciated  body,  and  clothed  in  only  a  red  flaonel 
shirt,  I  was  not  recognised  again  by  him;  though, 
previous  to  my  escape  from  the  prison,  we  had  lived  in 
habits  of  friendly  intercourse ;  and  it  was  some  time 
before  he  could  be  persuaded  it  was  his  old  friend : 
but  when,  on  recollection,  he  was  convinced  of  my 
person,  his  attendants  were  immediately  ordered  to 
raise  the  tent,  collect  firewood,  and  prepare  some  pro- 
visions.    This  order  was  directly  attended  to,  and 


f     197     ) 

shortly  after  a  piece  of  fat  pork  with  some  biscuit 
was  presented  for  my  repast,  which  precious  morsel 
was  devoured  with  the  avidity  of  the  most  voracious 
beast  of  prey ;  and  were  it  not  for  the  judicious  re- 
straint on  my  voracity,  the  abundance  with  which  I 
was  now  surrounded  would  no  doubt  have  terminated 
in  death.  The  attendants  of  the  marshal  were,  a  cor- 
poral of  the  guards  and  four  soldiers — two  constables 
and  four  sailors  composing  the  boat's  crew,  and  having 
provisions  for  a  week :  their  instructions  were  to  scour 
the  coast  from  Fort  Jackson  to  Jarvis's  Bay ;  but  the 
object  of  their  destination  was  performed  the  first  day. 
Some  of  the  soldiers  were  very  kind  in  equipping  me 
with  their  spare  warm  clothing;  one  lent  me  a  pair  of 
breeches,  another  a  shirt,  a  jacket  and  a  pair  of 
shoes ;  which,  with  the  supply  of  provision,  made  my 
situation  truly  comfortable  througli  the  night;  and 
though  the  rain  fell  heavy,  and  the  wind  contiziued 
tempestuous,  yet  I  slept  well  before  a  good  fire,  which 
the  guards  frequently  supplied;  and  at  intervals  I 
awaked,  when  I  supplied  myself  again  with  some  more 
pork  and  biscuit.  My  old  friend  Patrick  and  uie 
other  companion  in  tribulation  would  frequently  arrest 
my  attention,  when  I  wished  they  were  enjoying  the 
luxuriance  which  this  place  afforded;  knowing  that 
the  great  weakness  they  were  labouring  under,  and 
which  was  increased  by  the  exertion  in  getting  ashore 
and  remaining  in  their  wet  clothes  through  a  tempes- 
tuous night,  must  make  their  situation  the  most  abject 
of  all  creatures.  The  marshal  informed  me  that  him- 
self and  party  were  as  far  down  the  coast  as  to  the 

S  2 


y 


# 


A 


r' 


(    198    )  - 

place  where  we  first  pitched  our  tent;  when,  seating 
himself  on  the  Ci  ooked  tree  which  we  had  cut  hori- 
zontal for  our  accommodation,  he  observed  to  his 
men,/*  this,  no  doubt,  is  the  seat  on  which  Smith  has 
frequently  sat."  When  not  being  able  to  procure 
any  correct  information  from  the  natives  at  this  place 
respecting  us,  and  the  gale  increasing,  he  determined 
to  return  back  to  the  boat,  to  wait  till  the  storm  had 
.subsided :  but  on  their  return  (being  now  at  the  dis- 
tance of  seven  or  eight  miles  from  their  boat)  they 
discovered  our  boat  on  the  ocean  from  the  high  land 
on  the  coast ;  and  from  the  great  rapidity  of  our  sail- 
ing, rendered  it  necessary  for  them  to  nin  hard ;  fear- 
ing that  the  exigency  of  our  circumstances  would 
compel  us  to  seize  their  boat,  to  prevent  our  being 
pursued;  and  as  they  had  left  only  one  man  in 
charge  of  the  boat,  the  completion  of  such  a  project 
was  not  only  possible,  but  very  probable.  He  also 
observed  that  they  trembled  in  consequence  of  our 
dangerous  situation;  that  they  could  sometimes  dis- 
cover us,  and  at  other  times  we  were  apparently  lost, 
and  overwhelmed  in  the  ocean,  and  that  they  were  of 
opinion  we  should  never  arrive  safe  to  land.  Morn- 
ing having  now  arrived,  and  the  wind  considerably 
abated,  preparation  was  made  for  proceeding  to  Port 
Jackson,  and  as  ry  boat  was  raised,  it  was  determined 
that  a  part  of  the  crew,  with  my  living  and  dead 
companion,  should  proceed  in  her  to  Sydney ;  while 
myself,  the  marshal,  and  the  other  part  of  the  crew, 
should  land  in  Botany  Bay,  it  being  a  preferable 
route.     On  our  arrival,  the  marshal  went  overland 


(    199    ) 

to  Sydney  to  report  his  progress  to  the  governor ;  and, 
as  it  was  impossible  for  me  to  walk,  he  designed  to 
send  his  horse  for  my  accommodation.  Arriving  at 
Sydney,  my  ludicrous  appearance  excited  considera- 
ble observation  from  the  colonists,  and  created  no 
small  mortification  to  my  importance.  The  governor 
having  been  informed  of  my  arrival,  immediately 
sent  a  command  for  me  to  appear  before  him ;  (Hun- 
ter, the  former  governor,  was  succeeded  during  our 
absence  by  the  arrival  of  Governor  King  from  Eu- 
rope ;)  but,  from  my  singular  appearance,  I  solicited 
permission  of  his  excellency  the  privilege  of  only 
half  an  hour^s  grace,  in  order  that  I  might  have  an 
opportunity  of  appearing  before  him  in  a  different 
manner.  However,  my  importunity  in  this  instance 
was  not  granted,  (I  presume  from  the  governor's 
novel  disposition,)  but  was  ordered  to  appear  before 
him  instantly,  without  time  to  shave,  or  even  to  wash 
myself.  On  approaching  his  presence,  various  inter" 
rogatories  ensued,  as  where  I  had  been,  what  I  had 
been  doing,  &c.  to  which  I  replied  according  to  my 
ability.  After  having  satisfied  the  governor's  inqui- 
ries on  several  subjects  of  no  great  moment,  I  was 
dismissed,  and  left  again  in  the  charge  of  the  corpo- 
ral of  the  guard,  with  an  order  tliat  I  should  be  re- 
tained in  his  house  until  further  commands.  In  the 
interim  a  messenger  was  sent  to  apprize  Mr.  Camp- 
bell of  my  arrival,  and  to  request  him  to  wait  on  the 
governor:  but  before  Mr.  C.  had  an  opportunity  of 
attending  to  his  request,  his  excellency,  with  his  aid- 
de-carap,  went  to  another  part  of  the  town,  no  doubt 


(     200     ) 

mten<1ing  that  Mr.  C.  should  have  an  opportunity  of 
being  aflfected  Mrith  my  emaciated  appearance ;  which, 
to  a  humane  mind,  Avas  calculated  to  soften  the  most 
obdurate  disposition.  Shortly  after  Mr.  C.  made 
his  appearance;  when,  finding  the  governor  absent, 
rage  and  disappointment  were  evident  in  his  counte- 
nance; notwithstanding,  however,  he  condescended 
to  pay  me  a  visit,  but  not  without  manifesting  a  small 
share  of  triumph.  Soon  after  this  interview,  the 
governor  returned,  who,  finding  Mr.  C.  inexorable, 
was  obliged  to*  remand  me  to  my  old  habitation,  the 
prison ;  which  I  found  veri/  comfortable  quarters.  A 
few  days  previous  to  our  apprehension,  the  ship 
Royal  Admiral  of  1,200  tons  had  arrived  from  En- 
gland, with  transports,  and  ten  Missionaries  destined 
to  join  the  brethren  at  Otaheite,  and  the  other  islands, 
commanded  by  Captain  W.  Wilson,  late  first  oflicer 
of  the  Duff,  who  had,  in  the  Duff's  vo}  age,  manifest- 
ed considerable  friendship  towards  me,  and  which 
was  now  more  evinced,  and  increased,  as  will  subse- 
quently appear.  Humanity  his  object,  he  stepped 
forth  a  friend  in  the  time  of  need,  and  ultimately,  in 
the  hands  of  God,  was  my  deliverance. 

The  arrival  of  Captain  Wilson  and  the  Missiona- 
ries, and  the  prospect  of  a  speedy  visit  from  them, 
was,  to  me,  a  very  interesting  event :  a  detail  of  the 
circumstances  which  had  led  to  my  unpleasant  situa- 
tion would  be  expected ;  and  as  it  was  reported  to 
them  that  I  had  appropriated  my  employer's  pro- 
perty towards  the  purchase  and  fitting  the  Plumo,  I 
had  to  labour  against  these  prejudices.     They  were 


(    201    ) 

very  inquisitive  iu  investigating  this  subject;  and 
the  interview  terminated  much  to  their  satisfaction, 
as  they  found,  from  my  relation,  and  which  was  also 
amply  confirmed  by  other  testimony,  that  there  was 
no  foundation  for  crediting  such  reports ;  perceiving 
they  had  originated  only  in  suspicion.  They  daily 
visited  me  in  prison,  and  embraced  every  opportunity 
of  administering  comfort  in  my  necessitous  circum- 
stances. Captain  Wilson's  peculiar  situation  prevent- 
ed an  immediate  visit:  he  therefore  wrote  me  an 
affectionate  and  sympathetic  letter;  in  which  he  also 
stated  the  reports  of  my  being  connected  with  the 
owners  of  the  Flumo,  and  which,  he  observed,  I 
had  not  yet  acknowledged :  he  recommended  me  to 
make  an  unreserved  acknowledgment  of  every  trans- 
action and  circumstance  that  had  taken  place  since 
my  first  engagement  with  Mr.  Campbell;  concealing 
nothing,  whether  debt  incurred,  money  lent,  to  whom, 
on  what  security,  and  any  other  thing  that  related  to 
the  matter  in  question.  If  any  persons  had  persua- 
ded me  to  any  tiling  my  conscience  did  not  approve, 
not  to  spare  them,  but  confess  it  candidly.  If  I  had 
been  ensnared  by  any  of  the  owners  of  the  Plumo  to 
advance  them  money,  furnish  materials,  or  in  any 
other  way  without  good  security,  or  by  any  impro- 
per engagement  which  I  might  now  be  ashamed  of,  to 
own  it  openly. 

;  Upon  the  receipt  of  this  letter,  I  immediately  wrote 
an  answer,  informing  him  of  all  the  transactions  which 
had  produced  this  event,  with  which  he  was  also  satis- 
fled. 


(    202    ) 

Several  flays  had  elapsed  before  I  received  any 
further  commuuication   from  Captaiu  W.      In  the 
mean  time  I  solicited  and  obtained  permission  of  the 
governor    to    be  removed  to    Paramatta,    (a   town 
about  15  miles  from  Sydney,)  that  I  might  have  an 
opportunity   of   collecting    some   small   outstanding 
debts,  which  bad  been  left  in  the  care  of  Mr.  Hassall 
(one  of  the  Missionaries)  during  my  absence;  but  as 
he  was  not  regularly  authorized,  he  could  not  suc- 
ceed.    Having  obtained  the  governor's  pei;(nis8ion,  a 
constable  was  appointed  to  take  charge  of  me  thither, 
where,  on  his  arrival,  his  orders  were  to  deliver  me 
to  the  charge  of  the  constable  of  that  district,  which 
was   accordingly  attended  to,  with  the  usual  form; 
but  shortly  after  the  provost  marshal  arrived,  who 
gave  me  the  parole  of  honour,  with  full  liberty  to  go 
anywhere,  and  at   any  time  I  might  think  proper, 
but  observing  that  if  I  returned  to  Sydney  it  would 
be  necessary  to  report  it.     This  sweet  liberty  was 
enjoyed  about  three  weeks  without  the  least  inter-. 
ruption  or  restraint;  and  no  doubt  it  would  have  con^ 
tinned  a  considerable  time  longer,  had  not  Captain 
Wilson  have  written  me  a  letter,  requesting  my  im- 
mediate presence  on  board  the  Hoyal  Admiral,  as 
my  services  were  wanted  to  complete  the  transport 
accounts.     This  request  was  directly  obeyed;  but  on 
my  arrival  on  board  I  was  much  dejected,  by  the  in- 
formation of  the  captain's  absence  to  Hawksbury,  (a 
aettlement  about  40  miles  from  Sydney,)  and  that  his 
return  was  not  expected  before  five  or  six  days.    I 
was  therefore  obliged  to  go  on  shore  and  report  my  ^ 


(    203    ) 

return  to  the  marshal ;  irho  also  reported  the  same  to 
the  governor;  but  how  greatly  was  I  astonished  and 
elated,  when,  instead  of  receiving  the  governor's  or- 
ders to  remand  me  again  to  prison,  I  received  his 
excellency's  permission  to  go  anywhere  I  might  be 
disposed,  without  any  restraint,  and   endeavour  to 
bring  my  unpleasant  concerns  to  a  close.     Here  I 
was  again  at  liberty,  to  the  no  small  surprise  of  every 
person,  and  continued  so  for  about  a  week;  but  a 
period  was  at  length  put  to  it ;  for,  during  my  walks  in 
Sydney,  I  frequently  met  Mr.  Campbell,  who  no 
doubt   felt  much  disappointment  that   his  prisoner 
should  be  permitted  thus  to  walk  at  large ;  where- 
upon he  communicated  his  intention  to  the  governor, 
informing  him  ^that  if  it  was  his  excellency's  plea- 
sure that  I  should  be  set  at  liberty,  he  had  an  uu- 
doubted  right  to  demand  of  him  the  payment  of  my 
debt;   and  to  accomplish  it,  he  was  determined  to 
exert  his  utmost  efforts.     In  consequence  of  which 
the  provost  marshal  received  the  governor's  order 
to  remand  me  again  to  my  strong  hold.     On  coming 
out  of  the  church  on  the  Sunday  afternoon,  where 
the  marshal  had  been  some  time  waiting  till  the  wor- 
ship was  finished,  when  he  showed  me  the  order  of 
commitment,  which  was  immediately  obeyed;  and  in- 
stead of  taking  lodgings  in  my  friend's  house  as  usual, 
I  was  consigned  again  to  my  cell.     On  the  Thursday 
following  Captain  Wilson   unexpectedly  interfered^ 
by  requesting  me,  in  the  form  of  a  petition,  to  state 
fully  the  circumstances  under  which  I  was  labour- 
t  ing,  and  request  the  assistance  of  my  friends,  which 
being  completed  and  submitted  to  his  judgment,  he 


(     204     ) 

reiy  generously  subscribed  his  uaine  first  on  the  list 
of  subscribers  to  fifty  pounds  sterling;  it  ii^as  then 
presented  to  the  Missionaries,  who  subscribed  thirty 
pounds;  and  to  the  officers  of  the  ship,  who  added 
twenty-two  pounds.  Making  the  sum  total  collected 
ou  board  the  Royal  Admiral  one  hundred  and  two 
pounds.  Ihis  was  a  noble  commencement  in  the 
employ  of  begging;  and  a  great  encouragement  to 
persevere  in  well  doing;  accordingly,  the  successful 
petition  was  handed  round  to  the  colonists  who  cheer- 
fully subscribed  as  they  were  able.  In  two  days  the 
whole  amount  of  the  deficiency  was  procured,  and 
paid  to  my  prosecutor,  who  gave  a  receipt  in  full  of 
all  demands.  This  business  being  thus  comfortably 
accomplished,  Captain  Wilson,  not  satisfied  with  this 
act  of  generosity,  exerted  himself  still  further  in  my 
behalf,  by  proposing  to  my  acceptance  the  office  of 
purser  on  board  of  his  ship,  which  allowed  a  salary 
of  twenty-five  shillings  per  month,  and  in  addition  to 
which,  he  would  grant  thirty  per  cent,  on  the  various 
stores  delivered  to  the  ship's  company.  The  pro- 
posal did  not  require  any  time  for  consideration,  but 
was  immediately  and  gladly  embraced.  Such  a  sud- 
den and  unexpected  transition,  from  circumstances 
the  most  deplorable  and  wretched,  to  the  station  of 
purser  of  an  East-Indiaman,  must  appear  as  a  re- 
markable interposition  of  divine  providence ;  and  I 
am  persuaded,  had  it  not  beeu  for  the  instrumental 
and  benevolent  aid  of  Captain  W.,  my  inexorable 
prosecutor  would  long  have  triumphed  over  my 
ruinous  situation. 


(    205    ) 

The  reader  will  remember  that  Mr.  Crook  was  left 
upon  the  Marquesas :  he  suffered  considerably  from 
hunger  during  the  first  six  months  of  his  residence  at 
Christina,  which  arose  from  the  previous  improvidence 
of  the  natives ;  he  was  kindly  treated  by  the  chiefe,  who 
gave  him  a  part  of  their  scanty  morsel.  About  12 
months  after  the  departure  of  the  Duflf,  an  American 
ship  put  into  Resolution  Bay,  on  board  of  which  Mr. 
Crook  went  for  the  purpose  of  knowing  from  whence 
she  came,  and  to  write  home;  but  the  wind  blowing 
fresh  from  the  mountains,  the  ship  was  unable  to  work 
into  the  harbour,  and  was  carried  ta  leeward.  This 
circumstance  prevented  the  return  of  Mr.  Crook,  who 
requested  the  captain  to  carry  him  to  Sir  H.  Marw 
tyn's  Island,  which  lies  about  60  miles  to  the  north- 
west. The  captain,  who  was  extremely  kind,  bore 
away,  and  landed  him  on  that  spot. 

At  this  place  the  natives,  astonished  to  hear  a  white 
man  speak  in  their  own  language,  received  him, 
though  destitute  of  any  thing  but  what  he  had  on, 
with  the  greatest  cordiality;  and,  till  he  dissuaded 
them  from  the  extravagant  opinion,  considered  him 
as  a  God.  The  principal  chief  immediately  made 
him  his  tayo,  and  supplied  him  with  a  profuse  libe* 
raiity.  In  a  short  time  he  obtained  a  large  piece  of 
ground  stocked  with  bread-fmit,  cocoa-nuts,  and  the 
tarro  roots,  which  he  enclosed  with  a  bamboo  fence, 
and  built  a  house  upon  it. 

After  a  residence  of  seven  months  upon  this  island, 
the  ships  Euphrates  and  Butterworth,  both  South-Sea 
whalers  from  London,  put  in  for  refreshments,  to 


(     206     ) 

whom  Mr.  Crook  T/as  of  singular  service,  as  inter- 
preter, as  well  as  in  procuring  for  them  a  plentiful 
supply.  Despairing  of  seeing  the  Duff  upon  this 
island,  and  hoping  to  reach  England  before  she  sailed, 
that  he  might  accompany  the  Missionaries  to  Chris- 
tina, he  availed  himself  of  the  opportunity  to  return 
in  the  Butterworth  the  19th  May,  1799. 

Mr.  Crook  gives  a  very  favourable  account  of  Sir 
H.  Martyn's  Island,  and  represents  it  as  greatly  pre- 
ferable to  the  other  islands  for  fertility,  cultivation, 
and  good  usage. 

The  kinds  of  fruits  found  at  Otaheite  grow  there 
in  great  plenty.  The  wliole  country  abounds  with 
fresh-water  springs  and  rivulets,  which  conduce  much 
to  the  promotion  of  vegetation,  and  give  it  the  pre- 
ference in  this  respect  to  Tongataboo.  The  higher 
lands,  Mr.  Crook  thinks,  may  be  road6  to  produce 
fruits  and  grain  of  various  kinds,  and  recommends 
the  culture  of  rice,  of  which  the  natives  are  very 
fond,  and  might  be  supplied  with  it  in  case  of  a  fail- 
'  ure  in  the  crops  of  bread-fmit. 

Among  these  hospitable  strangers  disorders  of  any 
kind  are  little  known,  but  multitudes  are  cut  off  by 
continual  wars;  those  who  fall  in  battle  are  generally 
baked  and  fed  upon  as  a  delicious  repast  Mr. 
Crook  laments  that  though  they  never  could  prevail 
upon  him  to  join  in  these  battles,  yet  he  never  had 
sufficient  influence  to  check  them. 

Their  manners,  customs,  and  religion,  vary  little 
from  those  at  Otaheite. 

X^ew  South  Wales,  the  east  coast  of  New  fioUaiid, 


■  (     207     ) 

cxtendiiig  from  43°  49'  to  lO®  37'  south  lat.  being  the 
N.  and  S.  extremities  of  that  vast  island.  This 
coast  was  first  explored  by  Capt.  Cook,  in  1770; 
and  a  design  was  formed,  through  his  recommenda- 
tion, to  settle  a  colony  of  convicts  at  Botany  Bay. 
Capt.  Philips,  being  appointed  governor  of  the  intended 
settlement,  as  well  as  commodore  on  the  voyage,  sailed 
from  Portsmouth  in  May,  1787,  with  a  detachment  of 
marines,  and  778  convicts,  of  which  200  were  women. 
He  arrived  at  Botany  Bay  in  January,  1788;  but 
finding  this  bay  very  ineligible  for  a  colony,  he  fixed 
upon  Port  Jackson,  about  11  miles  from  Botany  Bay; 
and  here  the  settlement  was  first  begun,  to  which  be 
gave  tlie  name  of  Sydney  Cove. 

The  colony  was  no  doiibt  cBiablisbed  here,  not  in 
consequence  of  the  fertility  of  the  soil,  but  the  conti- 
guity of  the  harbour  to  the  ocean ;  which,  doubtless, 
is  one  of  the  finest,  and  most  spacious  for  anchorage, 
and  also  very  secure  from  all  winds.  The  town  of 
Sydney  is  well  laid  out;  the  streets  are  straight  and 
wide,  and  the  buildings  numerous ;  some  of  which  are 
well  built  of  bricks  and  stone;  particularly  the  go- 
vernor's, which  makes  a  very  handsome  appearance; 
it  is  built  of  stone,  and  is  about  seventy  feet  in  front; 
before  it  is  an  excellent  garden.  The  houses  of  the 
officers  are  of  brick;  the  rest  are  generally  log- 
houses,  plastered;  the  roofs  are  either  shingled  or 
thatched.  Here  is  also  a  hospital,  and  good  barracks 
for  the  soldiers,  with  gardens  adjoining,  but  they  are 
not  productive,  as  the  soil  is  very  sandy  and  indiffer- 
ent; and  to  this  inconvenience  must  be  added  the 


#giiPMw<«*'>?**<^°"'^' 


(     208     ) 

depredations  of  numerous  rats  and  thieves.  About  a 
mile  from  the  cove  are  brick-kilns  and  a  pottery,  the 
manufactures  of  which  thej  would  bring  to  tolerable 
perfection,  were  they  possessed  of  the  materials  used 
to  glaze  the  earthenware.  They  have  commenced 
builuing  a  place  for  worship.  A  few  miles  from  Syd- 
ney the  soil  is  very  good,  and  abundantly  productive 
of  all  kinds  of  grain  and  vegetables.  Many  of  the 
officers  at  that  distance  from  the  town,  have  handsome 
houses  erected,  and  their  farms  are  well  stocked  with 
all  kinds  of  cattle  and  poultry. 

The  settlement  at  Paramatta  is  next  in  magnitude 
to  Sydney,  and  no  doubt,  from  its  numerous  advan- 
tages, will  become  one  of  the  most  important  in  the 
colony.  Here  are  also  many  good  buildings;  and 
considerable  manufactories  of'  different  kinds  are  con- 
ducted on  government  account.  A  detachment  of 
troops  is  stationed  here,  as  well  to  preserve  good 
order  and  regularity  among  the  convicts,  as  a  check 
upon  the  natives,  who,  from  the  distance  to  Sydney, 
might  be  tempted  to  molest  the  settlers.  They  have 
little  apprehension,  however,  of  an  attack  from  the  nar 
lives,  who  have  seldom  shown  an  inclination  to  attack 
armed  men ;  not  that  they  are  destitute  of  courage,  but 
that  they  are  convinced  of  the  great  and  invir.cible 
superiority  of  our  fire-arms.  The  attacks  generally 
made  by  the  natives  are  upon  the  remote  settle- 
ments, and  single  colonists.  These  aggressions  have 
mostly  resulted  from  the  conduct  of  some  of  the  set- 
tlers, who  have  most  wantonly  and  inhumanly  abused 
tlie  natives.    The  land  in  this  neighbourhood  is  gene- 


(209 

rally  good,  and  very  productive ;  but  about  five  miles 
west  of  Paramatta  there  is  a  vast  tract  of  the  fiaest 
land  in  the  world ;  a  considerable  portion  of  it  has 
been  allotted  to  settlers,  who  do  doubt  will  be  amply 
remunerated  for  their  judicious  choice  and  industry. 

Toongabba  is  a  small  settlement  west  of  Paramatta, 
principally  settled  by  convicts,  who  are  wholly  em- 
ployed on  account  of  government,  in  clearing  and 
cultivating  the  land ;  but,  from  the  inferiority  of  the 
soil,  the  labour  is  not  so  well  repaid  as  in  other  parts 
of  thi>  colony.  This  settlement  is  appropriated  as  a 
place  of  punishment,  for  both  sexes  of  convicts  who 
have  conducted  themselves  in  a  refractory  manner; 
the  tasks  imposed  upon  them  are  greater,  and  the  ad- 
vantages less.  The  women  have  mostly  an  iron  col- 
lar placed  on  their  necks,  with,  some  two,  and  some 
four,  projecting  bars ;  so  that  they  are  prevented  from 
reposing  in  any  other  way  than  a  sitting  posture. 
This  mode  of  discipline  soon  brings  some  of  the  most 
obstinate  to  proper  order. 

The  next,  and  most  fe''  ile  of  the  settlements  is 
Hatirksbury,  distant  about  24  miles  from  Paramatta, 
situated  on  a  beautiful  river,  which  empties  itself  a 
few  miles  north  of  Port  Jackson,  and  is  navigable  by 
vessels  of  about  100  tons,  fifty  or  sixty  miles  inland. 
Two  men,  Williams  and  Rouse,  having  squandered 
away  their  money,  for  which  they  had  sold  their 
farms,  were  permitted  with  others  to  form  a  settle- 
ment at  this  place.  They  pitched  upon  a  spot  desi- 
rably situated  with  respect  to  the  water,  and  whtre 
it  did  not  require  much  labour  to  clear  the  land :  they 

1*2 


(    210    ) 

proceeded  \«rith  great  perseveraDce,  and  had  a  cheer- 
iog  prospect  of  success.  At  the  end  of  one  month 
they  had  cleared  several  acres,  and  were  in  great  for- 
wardness with  their  huts.  A  report  of  this  good  land, 
and  the  proffered  advantages,  was  soon  circulated; 
which  excited  many  others  to  follow  the  example;  so 
that  in  a  very  short  time,  thousands  of  acres  of  ne- 
glected laud  were  converted  into  beautiful  planta- 
tions; which  produced  the  greatest  variety  and 
abundance  of  all  the  necessaries  of  life;  and,  com- 
paratively, with  little  labour.  There  are  also  seve- 
ral other  settlements  beautiful  for  situation,  but  the 
limits  of  this  work  cannot  consistently  admit  of  their 
being  described. 

The  colony  is  situated  in  33^  S.  lat.;  the  climate  is 
without  doubt  very  desirable  to  live  in ;  the  heats  of 
summer  seldom  rise  higher  than  84^,  and  are  usually 
moderated  by  the  cheering  sea  breezes,  which  set  in 
early ;  and  in  winter  the  thermometer  is  seldom  lower 
than  35^;  the  degree  of  cold  is  therefore  so  slight  as 
to  occasion  no  inconvenience.  Hoar  frosts  and  hail, 
and  in  some  seasons  ice  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch 
thick,  have  been  seen,  but  snow  has  never  been  ob- 
served. Thunder  storms,  in  the  hot  months,  are  fre- 
quent and  heavy,  but  are  -seldom  attended  with  any 
serious  consequences.  In  short,  the  climate  is  doubt- 
less one  of  the  most  happy  in  the  world;  the  tern:  ra- 
ture  of  the  air  is  not  only  pleasant,  but  very  healthy. 
Diseases  of  a  putrid  nature,  with  which  many  coun^ 
tries  of  the  Atlantic  world  are  unhappily  visited,  are 
wholly  unknown  in  these  remote,  but  delightful  re« 


<    211     ) 

gioDS.  The  climate  is  not  only  favourable  to  all  the 
European  grains  and  vegetables,  but  also  to  the  tro* 
pical  fruits,  which,  grow  in  great  abundance. 

The  apportionment  of  the  land  to  free  setttersy  it 
100  acres  to  a  man,  50  to  the  woman,  and  25  to  each 
of  their  children,  in  any  part  they  may  fix  their 
choice;  and  as  a  further  encouragement,  the  services 
of  from  two  to  four  convicts  is  allowed  for  eighteen 
months;  and  both  the  settlers  and  their  assistants  are 
also  supplied  with  the  usual  allowance  of  provisions 
and  clothing,  from  the  colonial  stores ;  together  with 
implements'  of  husbandry,  building  materials,  and 
stock  of  different  kinds. 

Many  of  the  convicts,  after  the  expiration  of  their 
term  of  transportation,  >  have  become  settlers,  and  by 
their  industry  and  good  management,  have  accumu- 
lated considerable  wealth ;  and  the  conduct  of  some 
merits  attention  and  respect.  Among  whom,  some 
notice  of  the  celebrated  character  George  Barring- 
jijfm  may  not  be  unacceptable.  On  his  arrival  in  the 
colony  he  was  made  overseer  of  a  party  of  convictft 
at  Paramatta,  and  his  business  was  to  report  the  pro- 
gress made  in  the  different  works  carried  on  there. 
By  his  attention  to  the  interests  of  government,  the 
preservation  of  order  among  the  men,  and  suppressing 
the  risings  of  improper  conduct,  he  was  respected  by 
the  officers,  and  feared  by  the  convicts  whose  dispo- 
sitions prompted  them  to  a  disorderly  life.  Having 
acquitted  himself  with  great  credit  in  this  station,  and 
his  deportment  being  in  every  respect  satisfactory  to 
the  governor,  his  excellency  was  pleased  to  present 


(    212    )  ♦* 

him  with  an  absolute  pardon,  under  the  great  seal  of 
the  colony,  and  appointed  him  a  principal  superin- 
tendant  of  the  district  of  Paramatta,  witb  a  perma- 
nent salary  of  50/.  a  year,  in  which  station  he  con- 
ducted himself  with  integrity;  and,  by  his  uniform 
good  conduct,  perfectly  obliterated  every  trace  of 
his  former  indiscretions. 

These  happy  changes  in  the  convicts,  however,  are 
comparatively  few ;  while  many,  it  is  to  be  lamented, 
appear  by  their  conduct  to  be  the  most  depraved  and 
abandoned  of  the  human  race.  Corporal  punish- 
ments, by  whipping  and  other  modes,  are  frequent;  and 
also  capital  punishments  are  witnessed. 

The  desire  of  liberty  reigns  predominant  in  the 
human  breast ;  many  of  the  convicts  have,  therefore, 
at  different  times,  made  attempts  to  effect  their  es- 
cape. Some  entertained  the  novel  idea  that  they 
could  range  along  the  coast  till  they  reached  some  of 
the  Chinese  settlements,  subsisting  on  oysters  and  other 
shellfish ;  having  been  told  that  there  was  a  copper 
coloured  tribe,  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  to  the 
northward,  who  were  much  more  civilized  than  the 
natives  they  were  with,  and  who  trafficked  with  the 
Dutch  from  Timor,  where  they  would  be  free.  With 
these  notions  several  parties  set  off  from  Sydney 
Cove  and  Rose  Hill,  but,  after  several  days  strag- 
gling, some  were  taken,  and  others  returnCvl  of  their 
own  accord,  induced  by  the  imperative  command  of 
hunger ;  and  as  some  were  still  supposed  to  be  lurk- 
ing in  the  woods,  dreading  to  return  for  fear  of 
pmushment,  the  goveraar,  less  inclined  to  punish  than 


(    213    ) 

Co  convince  them  of  their  error,  promised  a  general 
pardon  to  those  who  should  return  within  five  days ; 
at  the  same  time  declaring  that  an  exemplary  punish- 
ment would  be  inflicted  on  every  one  who  should  be 
taken  after  that  period.  Accordingly,  several  return- 
ed and  were  sensible  of  the  lenity  shown  them ;  but 
some  appeared  capable  of  the  most  desperate  attempts, 
and  even  talked  of  repelling  force  by  force;  they 
were,  however,  given  to  understand  that  no  mercy 
would  be  shown  them  on  the  least  disposition  to  mu- 
tiny. Almost  all  the  deserters  returned,  and  those 
who  were  still  missing,  was  supposed  to  be  murdered 
by  the  natives;  and  the  miserable  state  of  those  that 
returned  would,  it  was  thought,  moat  effectually  pre- 
vent any  more  excursions  of  the  like  nature.  A 
curious  circumstance  was  related  of  one  of  these  de- 
serters, who,  entertaining  himself  with  the  idea  of 
reaching  China,  had  wandered  several  days  in  the 
woods,  and  on  the  sea-coast;  but,  unfortunately,  mis- 
taking the  course  for  China,  he  arrived  on  the  north 
shore  of  Sydney  Cove ;  shortly  after,  seeing  one  of 
the  officers,  simply  asked  him  if  he  had  not  seen  him 
in  Port  Jackson;  to  which  the  officer  replied  that  it 
was  probable  he  had ;  the  conversation  respecting  the 
colony  was  continued  till  they  arrived  at  Sydney, 
when  the  poor  man  was  undeceived  respecting  hiA 
pleasing  dream. 

.Among  the  classes  of  convicts,  I  cannot  omit  no- 
ticing some  who  were  transported  from  Ireland,  who 
were  concerned  in  promoting  the  dissensions  which 
unhappily  convulsed  and  desolated  that  country; 


f.,W^v«a*'» 


(    214    ) 

anionp;  whom  were  Dr.  Harrold,  of  the  Roman  church, 
Dr.  O'Connor,  Messrs.  M*Carty,  Prosser,  0*Harra, 
Sutton,  Orr,  Desmond,  and  several  others,  men  of 
great  respectability  for  their  standing  in  society,  as 
well  as  their  depoi*tment  in  life.  Oi  their  arrival  in 
the  colony,  they  were  permitted  to  pursue  wfiat  occu- 
pation they  chose,  and  no  business  of  any  kind  was 
imposed  on  them  by  the  government ;  whether,  from 
the  governor's  receiving  instructions  respecting  them 
in  that  particular,  or  relinquishing  the  government 
claim,  out  of  respect  to  their  characters^  is  uncertain. 

Also  Messrs.  Muir,  Palmer,  Skirring,  Jerrald,  and 
Margarot,  five  gentlemen  who  had  been  tried  in  Scot- 
land for  sedition,  were  convicted  and  transported  to 
this  country.  They  were  each  allowed  a  small  neat 
house  and  garden,  with  servants  to  wait  on  themv 

The  country  abounds  with  numberless  species  of 
birds :  those  of  the  parrot  kind  appear  to  be  the  most 
numerous;  the  macaw,  cockatoo,  lory,  green  parrot, 
and  paroquets  of  different  species  and  sizes,  which  are 
ornamented  with  the  most  gay  and  luxuriant  plumage 
that  can  be  conceived.  The  common  crow  is  no 
stranger  here,  but  is  found  in  considerable  numbers  : 
the  sound  of  their  voice  and  manner  of  croaking  is 
different  from  those  in  Europe.  Hawks  are  in  great 
plenty :  pigeons,  quails,  wild  ducks,  geese,  and  black 
Bwans,  and  a  great  variety  of  small  birds. 

There  is  also  a  very  large  bird,  called  the  amerv, 
but  it  is  not  very  common ;  at  first  they  were  taken 
for  the  ostrich,  as  they  did  not  fly  when  pursued^  but 
rao  80  exceedingly  swift  that  a  strong  ^o^  could  not 


(    215    ) 

overtake  them.  Its  flesh,  thouj^h  not  the  most  ten- 
der giaioed,  is  far  from  being  uoacceptable :  it  re- 
sembles, iihea^raw,  neck  beef;  and  a  side  bone  of  this 
bird  makes  au  excellent  dinner  for  half  a  dozen. 

Insects  are  as  numerous,  and  as  different  in  spe- 
cies, as  the  birds.  The  ants  are  of  various  sizes  and 
colours,  and  not  only  possess  superior  industry,  but  a 
great  portion  of  courage ;  an  insult  cannot  be  offered 
them  with  impunity:  the  most  formidable  of  these 
are  the  red-coated  tribe ;  they  are  from  three  qua'*- 
ters  to  an  inch  in  length.  Whenever  it  happens  that 
they  are  disturbed  by  any  person,  or  beast,  treading 
on  their  nests,  they  commence  an  attack  with  im- 
mense numbers,  with  astonishing  intrepidity,  and  con- 
tinue, for  a  considerable  distance,  with  all  their  speed, 
to  pursue  their  ill-fated  and  unconscious  foe.  I  was 
once  an  innocent  offender,  standing  for  a  short  time 
in  the  midst  of  their  nest ;  they  soon  convinced  me 
of  my  error,  and  were  victorious.  Their  bite,  if  not 
venomous,  is  attended  with  the  most  acute  pain  for 
some  hours.  Une  species  of  them  build  their  nests 
against  a  tree,  of  the  size  of  a  bee-hive:  another 
kind  raises  mounds  of  earth,  with  prodigious  indus- 
try, to  the  height  of  four  feet. 

Of  reptiles,  there  are  snakes  of  various  species, 
some  very  small,  and  some  about  twelve  feet  in  length, 
and  as  thick  as  a  man's  leg;  but  few  of  them  are 
venomous.  Lizards  of  various  kiuds  and  sizes  are 
also  numerous. 

Plants  and  flowers  of  the  most  variegated  kinds 
and  fragrance  abound  all  over  the  country,  which 


» .;*J.ll»J*  "■■ 


(    216    ) 

would  doubtless  afford  an  endless  varietur  of  pleasiag 
researches  to  the  botanist :  as  I  do  not  profess  to  have 
any  knowledge  of  that  iuteresting  sciAice,  I  am  una- 
ble to  describe  their  different  properties. 

The  whole  face  of  the  country  is  covered  with 
thick  forests  of  trees  of  a  great  variety,  and  fine  tim- 
ber. The  trees  are  large  and  spreading,  and  afford  a 
succession  of  green  leaves  in  all  seasons;  there  is  a 
tall  shrub,  bearing  an  elegant  flower,  which  smells 
like  English  May,  is  peculiarly  delightful,  and  per- 
fumes the  air  to  a  great  distance.  Some  of  the  trees 
on  the  shores  of  Port  Jackson  grow  in  a  surprising 
manner,  having  for  their  foundation  only  rocks,  and 
their  roots  singularly  spreading  in  the  crevices: 
nevertheless,  their  foliage  appears  always  green  «ind 
flourishing. 

The  rocks  on  the  margin  of  this  harbour  are 
mostly  of  a  soft  nature,  many  of  which  have  large 
perforated  holes,  formed  by  nature,  which  afford  resi- 
dences for  the  natives,  who  never  think  of  building 
huts  of  any  description.  The  natives*are,  without  ex- 
ception, the  most  miserable  and  savage  race  of  men  in 
tlie  world ;  both  sexes  wandering  from  place  to  place 
entirely  naked;  whose  employment  and  only  concert 
is  to  catch  fish,  or  kangaroo,  to  supply  their  hunger. 
They  have  canoes,  but  they  are  nothing  more  than 
large  pieces  of  bark,  about  ten  feet  in  length,  tied  up 
at  both  ends  with  vines ;  and  extended  by  two  pieces 
of  sticks  stuck  in  the  sides;  but  considering  the 
smallness  and  nature  of  these  vessels,  the  natives 
manage  them  with  a  surprising  degree  of  activity,  and 


(   2ir    ) 

'with  boldness  venture  a  considerable  distance  to  sea 
in  them.     They   frequently  strike  fish   from  their 
canoes  with  spears,  and  sometimes  catcli  them  with 
hooks,  and  with  nets.      They  have  frequently  been 
presented  with  clothes  and  blankets,  with  which,  for 
a  short  time,  they  have  appeared  pleased,  but  have 
uniformly  cast  them  aside,  conceiving  them  to  be 
only  an  encumbrance.     Notwithstanding  their  neg- 
lect of  European  clothing  and  finery,  they  are  fond 
of  adorning  their  bodies  with  scars,  which  are  made 
by  an  oyster  shell  with  teeth  like  a  saw ;  sometimes 
the  skin  is  raised  an  inch  from  the  flesh,  which,  with 
the  filth,  grease,  and  ochres,  they  besmear  themselves; 
and  a  sort  of  gum  separating  their  hair  in  various 
tails,  to   which  are  attached  the  white  teeth  of  the 
kangaroo,  and   the  cartilage  of  the  nose  being  per- 
forated, through  which  is  placed  the  leg  bone  of  the 
kangaroo,  (humorously  called  by  the    sailors  their 
spritsail-yard,)  so  that  by   these  various  modes  of 
what  they  call  ornament,  they  make  tliemselves  ap- 
pear the  most  hideous  of  all  creatures.     Their  natu- 
ral colour  is  a  deep  chocolate.     The  men  in  general 
are  destitute  of  some  of  the  fore  teeth,  and  it  is  cus- 
tomary for  the  women  to  cut  off  the  two  first  joints 
of  the  little  finger,  which  is  considered  a  mark  of 
honour;  and,  considering  the  instruments  of  amputa- 
tion, it  must  be  attended  with  great  pain.     In  person,' 
(hey  are  vigorous,  active,  and  stout,  though  generally 
lean;  sickness  is  scarcely  ever  known  among  them. 
The  men  display  great  bravery  on  the  appearance 
of  any  danger.    Wars  are  frequent  among  them,  and 

U 


(     218     ) 

are  mostly  occasioned  by  private  murders ;  tlie  per- 
son who  is  guilty  of  the  crime  is  doomed  to  make 
retribution  by  being  exposed  to  the  spearing  of  the 
relations  of  their  lost  companion,  while  the  aggressor's 
party  are  only  spectators,  and  to  see  that  no  foul 
spears  are  thrown ;  in  the  event  of  which  both  parties 
commence  a  general  engagement  with  spear  and  club ; 
sometimes  the  death  of  some  of  the  parties  is  the  con- 
sequence, and  they  are  seldom  terminated  without 
some  being  severely  wounded. 

With  regard  to  their  religion  I  believe  no  correct 
information  has  been  obtained ;  however,  it  is  certain 
they  sing  a  hymn  or  song  of  joy  from  daybreak  till 
sunrise,'  but  whether  they  have  any  particular  ob- 
ject to  whom  they  pay  adoration  is  uncertain :  nei- 
ther do  any  of  the  celestial  bodies  seem  to  occupy 
more  of  their  attention  than  the  animals  which  inhabit 
this  extensive  countrj\  Yet  they  do  not  appear  en- 
tirely ignorant  of  a  future  state,  as  they  say  the  bones 
of  the  dead  are  in  the  grave,  and  their  bodies  in  the 
clouds.  They  most  certainly  burn  their  dead ;  for 
on  opening  a  new  made  grave,  a  quantity  of  white 
ashes  were  found,  which  appeared  to  have  been  but 
lately  deposited  there;  among  the  ashes  were  found 
part  of  a  human  jawbone,  and  a  piece  of  a  skull, 
which  had  not  been  sufficiently  burnt  to  prevent  its 
being  perfectly  ascertained. 

Their  principal  diversion  is  that  of  dancing,  for 
which  ceremony  they  prepare  themselves  with  more 
than  ordinary  attention ;  they  are  all  in  their  birth- 
day suits,  like  so  many  Adams  and   Eves.    The 


(    219    ) 

young  women  employ  all  their  art,  in  decorating  the 
young  men,  who  are  chiefly  ornamented  with  8treak» 
of  white,  drawn  with  pipe  clay,  and  in  different 
forms,  according  to  the  taste  of  the  man  himself,  or 
to  the  lady  who  adorns  him.  They  are  as  emulous  of 
appearing  fine  as  the  most  finished  beau  who  is  desi- 
rous of  attracting  the  notice  of  his  favourite  mistress. 
Their  paint  cannot  be  applied  without  moistening, 
and  the  lady,  in  drawing  the  streaks  down  the  face, 
which  is  tlie  most  essential  part  of  decoration,  spits  in 
the  face  of  her  friend  whom  she  is  adorning,  from 
time  to  time,  as  the  ochre  or  clay  gets  dry.  Their 
dances  are  mostly  at  the  close  of  the  day,  as  they 
prefer  fire-light  to  that  of  the  sun  on  these  occasions. 
There  is  great  variety  in  their  dances;  sometimes 
they  dance  in  pairs,  and  frequently  turn  back  to 
back,  then  suddenly  turn  and  face  each  other ;  some- 
times they  all  sit  on  the  s;round  with  their  feet  under 
them,  and  at  a  particular  word  or  signal  they  are  on 
their  feet  in  a  moment,  rising  without  any  assistance 
from  their  hands;  they  then  run  back  in  rows,  and 
again  advance  in  the  same  order.  Sometimes  they 
form  a  circle  with  some  distinguished  person  in  the 
centre ;  and  at  other  times  all  the  dancers  have  green 
boughs  in  their  hands.  One  man  would  frequently 
single  himself  out  from  the  rest,  and,  running  round 
the  whole  of  the  performers,  deliver  in  a  peculiar 
tone  of  voice  some  expressions;  he  would  then  fall 
in  with  the  rest  of  the  dancers.  They  exhibit  their 
utmost  skill  and  dexterity  in  the  most  diiTicult  contor- 
tions of  the  body,  which,  in  their  opinion,  constitute 


(     220     ) 

tlie  principal  beauties  of  dancing:  one  of  the  mo^t 
striking  is  that  of  placing  their  feet  very  wide  apart, 
and  by  an  extraordinary  exertion  of  the  muscles  of 
the  thighs  and  legs,  move  their  knees  in  a  trembling 
and  very  astonishing  manner,  such  as  no  person  in  the 
colony  could  any  ways  imitate.  Their  music  is  made 
with  two  sticks  of  hard  wood,  one  of  which  the  musi- 
cian holds  to  his  breast,  in  the  manner  of  a  violin,  and 
strikes  it  with  the  other,  in  tolerable  good  time.  The 
performers  sing  the  whole  time  of  the  dance,  assisted 
by  several  boys  and  girls,  who  are  seated  at  their 
feet.  They  arc  very  prone  to  flattery,  and  if  any 
strangers  are  present  always  ask  for  their  .approbation, 
and  appear  highly  delighted  if  you  say  "  hoojerie 
cariherie^^  a  very  good  dance,  which  never  fails  to 
produce  more  than  ordinary  exertions. 

Their  mode  of  making  love  is  the  most  unaccounta» 
ble  and  singular,  and  would  be  far  from  meeting  the 
approbation  of  our  fair  countrywomen :  the  ceremo- 
ny is  always  prefaced  with  a  sound  beating,  and  fre- 
quently the  bones  of  the  ladies  are  broken,  and  the 
blood  flows  in  copious  streams,  which  are  inflicted  as 
a  matter  of  course. 

A  circumstance  relating  to  the  colony  I  cannot 
omit  noticing,  which,  f^i  the  time  of  its  occurrence, 
was  deeply  regretted ;  but  ultimately,  will  doubtless 
prove  much  to  its  advantage.  A  few  years  prior  to 
my  arrival  in  the  colony,  a  convict  was  intrusted 
with  the  care  of  the  black  cattle  (viz.  four  or  five 
cows  and  a  bull)  belonging  to  the  governor,  but  by  a 
strange  and  unaccountable  neglect,  permitted  them  to 


(     221     ) 

stray  into  the  woods.  He  had  been  strictly  enjoined 
never  to  lose  sight  of  them,  but  he  paid  little  attention; 
till  at  last,  on  his  return  to  the  spot  where  he  had  left 
them,  he  found  that  they  had  quitted  it ;  distracted 
with  fear  of  the  punishment  that  awaited  him,  he  re- 
mained in  the  woods  searching  for  them  till  he  was 
absolutely  perishing  with  hunger,  and  was  found  in  a 
most  deplorable  condition  by  one  of  the  parties  that 
had  been  sent  out  after  him. 

After  a  fruitless  search  of  near  a  fortnight  all  hopes 
of  finding  them  were  despaired  of,  and  it  was  con- 
jectured that  they  were  driven  away  by  the  natives : 
the  governor  was  afterwards  confirmed  in  this  idea, 
as  some  of  them  declared  that  they  had  seen  them 
killed,  and  offered  to  point  out  the  spot  where  they 
had  deposited  the  bones:  the  place  they  mentioned  . 
being  at  a  considerable  distance,  the  governor  de- 
clined any  further  search. 

A  considerable  time  after  this  unpleasant  event, 
several  contests  happening  among  the  natives,  had 
brought  many  of  the  distant  tribes  down  to  Sydney 
to  be  spectators;  some  of  whom,  observing  the  cattle 
in  the  colony,  said  that  they  had  seen  many  of  the 
same  kind  in  the  woods.  This  intelligence  getting  to 
the  governor,  he  ordered  a  more  particular  inquiry 
to  be  made ;  and  being  satisfied  as  to  the  truth  of  the 
report,  and  their  track  being  clearly  ascertaiaed,  his 
excellency  determined  to  satisfy  himself.  He  accord- 
ingly set  off  with  a  strong  party;  having  travelled 
three  days  in  a  S.  S.  W.  direction  from  the  set- 
tlement at  Prospect  Hill,  he  crossed  Nepean  river> 

U2 


(    222    ) 

and,  to  his  great  surprise  and  satisfaction,  he  fell  in 
"With  a  very  fine  herd  of  cattle.  The  day  was  too 
far  adyauced  to  make  an  accurate  survey  of  them ;  so 
he  halted  in  a  pleasant  spot  in  the  vicinity,  expecting 
in  the  morning  to  be  gratified  wi*h  a  sight  of  the  whole 
herd.  A  doubt  was  started  whether  they  were  the  pro- 
geny of  those  which  had  been  imported  from  the  Cape; 
or  whether  they  were  not  of  longer  standing ;  his  excel- 
lency was  therefore  determined  to  satisfy  their  doubts, 
and  accordingly  directed  some  of  the  party  to  en- 
deavour to  kill  one  of  the  calves.  This  they  were 
not  able  to  effect;  for,  while  lying  in  wait  to  let  the 
herd  pass,  which  now  consisted  of  upwards  of  four- 
score, they  were  furiously  attacked  by  a  young  bull,, 
which  they  were  obliged  to  kill  in  their  own  defence^ 
This,  however,  answered  the  purpose;  for,  as  it  was 
full  grown,  they  had  an  opportunity  of  satisfying 
their  doubts  respecting  their  identity  as  being  the  cafe- 
tie  which  were  formerly  lost.  Being  at  this  time 
near  forty  miles  from  any  of  the  settlements,  a  very 
small  quantify  of  the  meat  could  be  brought  in;  the 
remainder,  to  the  regret  of  the  party,  was  unavoida- 
bly left  The  country  where  th^y  were  found  grazing 
was  remarkably  pleasant,  and  richly  covered  with 
thick  luxuriant  grass;  the  trees  were  thinly  scatter- 
ed, and  free  from  underwood;  several  large  plots 
were  embellished  with  ponds,  covered  with  black 
swans  and  flocks:  of  ducks,  the  margins  of  which  were 
beautifully  fringed  with  variegated  shmbs,  and  the 
ground  from  these  levels  rose  into  hills  of  gradual  ?.cA 
easy  descent. 


*       (     223     ) 

The  goveraor,  considering  that  it  was  of  the  great- 
est consequence  to  the  colony  that  their  numbera 
ehould  not  be  diminished,  and  that,  if  permitted  to 
continue  thus  in  their  wild  state,  they  might  hereafter, 
like  the  cattle  on  the  Spanish  Main,  not  only  prove 
sufficient  for  the  consumption  of  the  colony,  but  a 
source  of  commerce  to  the  inhabitants,  he  was  there- 
fore determined,  as  much  as  in  his  power,  to  prevent 
any  of  them  from  being  destroyed. 


(    224    ) 


CHAPTER  VIII. 


-« 


Voyage  to  New  Zealand.— Dreadful  8torm.^-ArriTe  at  the  an- 
chorage.—The  woodcutting  party  make  preparation  for  land- 
ing.— Find  tlie  Plurao  in  the  harbour.— Arrive  in  the  inte- 
rior.—VJsated  by  the  natives,  and  find  them  great  thieves.— 
Difficulties  with  the  natives. — Two  of  the  chiefp  confined.— 
An  attempt  to  liberate  them.--Differences  amicably  settled: 
— Repeated  gales  of  wind,  and  loss  of  our  long-boat.— The 
writer  unexpectedly  meets  a  large  body  of  the  natives/— His 
consequent  fears.— Description  of  New  Zealand. 


1  HE  ship'*s  transport  accounts  and  other  concerns 
being  finished,  we  sailed  from  Port  Jackson  about  the 
latter  end  of  December,  18C0,  towards  New  Zealand, 
where  the  captain  hoped  to  obtain  t.  cargo  of  timber 
for  the  China  market.  The  passage  Irom  Port  Jackson 
Iras  propitious,  accompanied  with  pleasant  weather; 
nothing  having  occurred  worthy  of  notice  until  our 
arrival  at  New  Zealand.  In  making  the  land,  we 
were  prevented  from  coming  to  an  anchor  for  two 
days,  by  contrary  winds.  At  length,  however,  we 
succeeded,  and  came  to  anchor  between  the  Barrier 
Islands  aud  the  Main,  distant  from  the  mouth  of  the 
river   Thames    about  twenty  leagues,  mid-channel, 


,^* 


(    225     ) 

irith  calm  and  pleasant  weather  through  the  niglH* 
At  break  of  day  the  breeze  sprung  up,  which  shortly 
after  increased  to  a  very  strong  gale.  At  about  7  A. 
M.  the  seas  ran  high,  and  the  ship  laboured  hard ; 
parted  the  stream  cable  close  to  the  clinch  of  the  an- 
chor, in  consequence  of  which  the  best  bower  was 
immediately  cast  to  bring  the  ship  up;  but  at  this 
moment  Captain  W.  coming  upon  deck,  and  finding 
the  gale  likely  to  increase  rather  than  subside,  and 
fearing  the  loss  of  another  anchor,  ordered  the  cap- 
stan to  be  immediately  manned  to  weigh  the  anchor, 
and  bring  the  remainder  of  the  parted  cable  ta  the 
bows.  About  four  hours  of  very  hard  labour  were 
engaged  in  this  employ.  At  9  A.  M.  got  the  ship 
under  weigh  with  close-reefed  topsails,  with  the  fore- 
sail, mainsail  and  mizen,  endeavouring  to  ply  to- 
windward;  but  the  storm  every  minute  increasing  in 
violence,  and  the  seas  in  magnitude,  the  ship  fell 
considerably  to  leeward,  and  fast  approaching  the- 
shore.  At  10,  the  weather  increasing  harder,  wore 
ship,  to  keep  as  near  mid-channel  between  the  Bar- 
rier Islands  and  the  Main  as  possible..  At  II  iff 
blows  still  harder;  wore  ship  again  on  the  other  tack, 
as  it  was  impossible  to  tack  to  windward.  At  12 
'0  sign  of  the  weather  breaking,  secured  the  boats 
rid  guns,  had  the  hatches  and  tarpaulins  battened;  ia 
short,  every  thing  that  could  be  thought  of  was  dene 
to  make  a  snug  ship.  At  about  1  P.  M.  a  complete 
hurricane ;  the  seas  and  wind  roaring  tremendously  t 
the  ship*s  works  were  now  severely  tried,  and  having 
shipped  some  water,  frequent  pumping  was  necessary^ 


"h- 


(    226    ) 

The  carpenters'  axes  were  placed  in  readiness  to  cut 
*.  ^ly  the  masts,  in  the  event  of  striking,  which  was  mo- 
mently expected.  The  carpenters  are  now  employed 
in  cutting  away  a  part  of  the  gunwale  to  get  the  sheet- 
anchor  in  readiness.  At  1-2  past  1  a  tremendous 
crash  on  the  main-topmast ;  the  carpenters  were  sent 
to  examine  what  was  the  matter,  who  reported  that  it 
was  considerably  split,  and  that  it  was  not  practica- 
ble to  assist  it  much.  At  2  a  most  horrible  gust, 
which  succeeded  in  shattering  our  mainsail  into  a 
thousand  pieces !  another  squall  equally  violent  fol- 
lowed, which  tore  the  foresail  in  the  same  manner, 
leaving  onl^  bolt-rope,  and  some  small  pieces  of 
the  fragment  oi  ^he  sails  standing.  All  hands  were 
now  employed  in  clearing  the  wrecks  of  the  main 
and  foresails,  and  setting  the  main-stay-sail.  We 
were  fully  expecting  every  moment  to  see  the  masts 
go  overboard,  as  the  topmasts  were  bending  like  a 
bow,  though  with  only  close-reefed  topsails.  To  at- 
tempt a  correct  description  of  our  perilous  situation 
would  be  impossible.  The  sea  in  one  general  foam ! 
the  wind  roaring  like  awful  thunder,  the  sails  and 
rigging  in  a  wrecked  condition,  and  dismay  sat  on 
every  countenance !  The  ship  very  much  pressed, 
yet  doing  what  she  could;  shaking  her  sides,  and 
groaning  at  every  stroke.  Ah,  New  Zealand,  land  of 
cannibals  and  desolation,  thou  art  much  in  our  way ; 
we  dread  thee.  Two  quartermasters  are  now  at  the 
helm,  narrowly  watched  by  the  vigilant  captain, 
whose  fears  are  somewhat  increased  by  the  augmenta- 
tion of  the  tempest,  and  the  attendant  haze,  and  our 


(    227     ) 

close  approach  to  the  dreaded  rocks.    Captain  W« 
requested  me  to  mount  the  maiu  shrouds  for  observ»> 
tioD,  when  there  appeared  a  hideous  reef  at  about 
1-2  a  mile  distant,  and  the  waves  breaking  tumultu- 
ously  over  it.    Tlie  horrors  of  shipwreck  were  now 
mor'entarily  expected  to  be  realized;    for,  in  the 
course  we  were  necessarily  standing,  no  alternative 
appeared.    The  skill  of  the  mariner  and  human  in- 
vention were  now  tried  to  tlie  utmost.     Our  situa- 
tion  was  reduced  to  a  state  of  desperation !     No  pro« 
babjlity  of  escaping   the  dreadful  consequences  of 
total  wreck,  and  the  more  dreadful  still  of  being  torn 
to  pieces  by  cannibals,  if  even  we  should  arrive  safe 
on  shore.     But,  how  gracious  and  merciful  is  the 
Lord  of  Hosts,  who  holds  the  winds  in  his  fist,  and 
the  waters  in  the  hollow  of  his  hand,  in  appear* 
ing  in  this  awful  period,  when  afc  expected  im- 
mediate destruction !     For,  in  the  most  critical  mo- 
ment of  this  memorable  day,  the  wind  was  suddenly 
changed  a  point  in  our  favour,  by  which  we  were 
enabled  just  to  clear  the  rocks,  and  at  sunset  the 
tempest  subsided,  and  became  a  calm.     The  words  of 
the  Psalmist  in  the  107th  Psalm,  from  the  23d  to  30th 
vei*ses,  are  very  descriptive  and  appropriate  to  our 
situation :  "  They  that  go  down  to  the  sea  in  ships, 
that  do  business  in  great  waters,  these  see  the  works 
of  the  Lord,  and  his  wonders  in  the  deep.    For  he 
commandeth  and  raiseth  the  stormy  wind  which  lift- 
eth  up  the  waves  thereof.     They  mount  up  to  the 
heaven,  they  go  down  again  to  the  depths :  their  soul 
Is  melted  because  of  trouble.    They  reel  to  and  fro. 


.,d*ilW(«t*5'«>'' 


(    228    ) 

xmd  stagger  like  a  drunken  man,  and  are  at  their  mis 
end.  Then  they  cry  unto  the  Lord  in  their  trouble, 
aud  he  bringeth  them  out  of  their  distresses.  He 
maketh  the  storm  a  calm,  so  that  the  waves  thereof 
are  still.  Then  are  they  glad  because  they  be  quiet, 
so  he  bringeth  them  unto  their  desired  haven."  The 
following  day  a  light  breeze  springing  up,  wafted  us 
to  the  mouth  of  the  river  Thames,  and  at  1 1  A.  M. 
came  to  an  anchor  in  7  fathoms  watc .  The  remain- 
der of  the  day  was  employed  in  rigging  the  long-boat, 
preparing  arms,  ammunition,  provisions,  &c.  for  the 
intended  object  of  cutting  spars.  At  4  P.  M.  Cap- 
tain Wilson,  the  4th  officer,  and  myself,  with  about 
twenty  men,  embarked  for  the  eastern  shore,  distant 
four  leagues;  but  as  there  were  several  inhabitants 
observed  on  shore,  and  suspecting  their  peaceable 
disposition,  and  night  approaching,  the  captain  thought 
it  imprudent  to  land  that  night;  we  therefore  remain- 
ed at  anchor  in  the  boat.  At  daybreak  a  canoe 
came  off  with  four  or  five  natives  on  board,  but  not 
being  able  to  confer  with  them  by  language,  we  bid 
recourse  to  signs ;  by  which  we  made  them  under- 
stand the  object  of  our  pursuit,  who  then  directed  us 
to  sail  south  a  considerable  distance  up  the  country, 
where  we  should  find  an  abundance  of  trees  of  all 
descriptions,  and  also  that  a  ship  was  there.  This 
was  a  gratifying  part  of  the  intelligence,  as  we  had 
no  doubt  that  it  was  the  Plumo,  which  had  sailed  a 
few  days  previous  to  us,  for  the  same  object.  We 
accordingly  made  sail,  proceeding  agreeably  to  the 
report  of  the  natives.    We  shortly  after  came  in 


(     229     ) 

sight  of  the  Flumo,  and  ia  boarding  her,  to  my  great 
pleasure,  saw  my  old  friend  and  companion  in  dis- 
tress, Patrick  Riley,  who  was  also  as  much  gratified 
at  seeing  me.  The  previous  arrival  of  this  ship  ex- 
pedited our  business ;  they  having  explored  a  consi- 
derable part  of  the  country,  and  had  found  a  field  of 
fine  trees  about  twenty  miles  from  their  vessel,  but 
had  made  little  progress  towards  cutting  timber, 
owing  to  a  serious  accident  their  ship  had  sustained 
in  coming  into  the  river,  by  being  driven  on  a  sand- 
bank, and  thereby  breaking  eiglit  of  her  larboard 
timbers ;  which  rendered  it  necessary  that  all  hands 
should  be  employed  for  a  long  time  to  repair  their 
damages.  After  receiving  some  refreshment  on  board 
we  proceeded  further  up  the  river  towards  the  field 
on  which  our  friends  were  employed,  which  was  easily 
found  by  the  direction  of  some  natives  who  had 
accompanied  us  in  a  canoe.  Having  landed,  we  car- 
ried our  stores  to  the  wood  side,  distant  from  the  land- 
ing-place about  three  fourths  of  a  mile;  where  we 
erected  two  temporary  huts  made  of  rafters,  of  a 
coni\;al  shape,  and  thatched  them  with  grass;  one  was 
designed  for  tlie  habitation  of  the  captain,  the  offi- 
cer, myself,  and  stores,  and  the  other  for  the  men; 
but  both  contiguous,  and  encircled  with  a  palisado, 
about  seven  feet  high,  to  prevent  a  surprise  from  the 
natives,  on  whose  hospitable  disposition  no  confidenc  e 
can  be  placed ;  and  as  it  respects  their  pilfering  incli- 
nation, I  am  of  opinion  they  exceed  the  Otaheiteans. 
The  first  and  second  days,  being  engaged  in  prepa* 
ring  our  habita^ons,  nothing  was  done  in  cuttiiag  trees. 


(     230     ) 

On  the  third  day,  the  men  proceeded  to  their  worli; 
but,  from  the  diameter  of  the  timber,  few  were  level- 
led.    The  trees  are  generally  of  the  spruce  kind, 
running  upon  an   average  from  90  to  120  feet  in 
height,  very  straight,  and  without  a  branch.     Cap- 
tain W.  was  of  opinion  that  its  quality  was  not  suffi- 
ciently good  to  be  appropriated  to  the  general  use  of 
dipping.    After  having  cut   do'^rn   the   trees,  and 
squared  tliem   for  rafting,  considerable  difficulties 
were  presented,  in  bringing  them  out  of  the  woods  to 
the  water ;  for,  the  timber  carriage  was  rendered  use- 
less in  consequence  of  the  swampy  soil  over  which 
the  trees  were  to  be  drawn :  the  captain  then  had  re- 
course to  rollers  and  a  road  made  of  slabs,  but  this 
also  was  attended  with  very  discouraging  circum- 
stances.   At  length,  we  discovered  that  an  axe  or  a 
red  cloak  of  flannel,  were  great  inducements  to  the 
natives  to  lend  a  helping  hand;    and  as  we  were 
situated  in  tlie  district  of  a  powerful  chief,  {Hotipa,) 
by  making  a  bargain  with  him  for  axes  or  cloth,  we 
could  at  any  time  command  as  many  natives  as  were 
necessary,  who  would  fasten  ropes,  in  their  way,  to 
a  tree  of  100  feet  in  length,  and  two  or  three  in  dia- 
meter, and  walk  without  rollers,  and  with  very  little 
regard,  to  the  river. 

The  natives,  however,  were  using  their  exertions  to 
obstruct  our  progress  by  pilfering;  their  acts  of  de- 
predation were  becoming  every  day  more  violent  and 
barefaced;  for,  frequently,  when  the  woodcutters 
were  at  work,  they  have  been  rushed  upon,  In  the 
most  sudden  and  unexpected  manner,  knocked  dowoi 


*f^' 


(   2iii    ) 

and  deprived  of  tlieir  axes;  and  these  violations  vere 
80  frequent  that  we  had  scarcely  a  sufficient  number 
left  for  the  completing  our  cargo ;  therefore,  it  was 
necessary  that  a  guard  should  be  placed  over  the 
men  while  at  their  employ.    At  another  time  they 
succeeded  in  carrying  off  the  timber  carriage  unob- 
served ;  at  another,  the  cook  sent  a  native,  who  had 
been  very  officious  in  assisting  him,  for  a  kettle  of 
water,  but  he  made  off  with  it,  without  asking  per- 
mission.   A  number  of  aggressions  of  a  similar  na- 
ture were  committed  by  them ;  so  that  Captuu  W, 
was  determined,  if  possible,  to  put  a  stop  to  these  pro- 
ceedings, and  also  to  recover  the  stolen  articles  again; 
in  which  he  effectually  succeeded,  though  the  mea- 
sures adopted  were  bold  and  hazardous.     Two  of  the 
chiefs,  being  in  the  men'^s  but,  were  secured  and  kept 
prisoners,  informing  them  of  the  consequences  should 
they  attempt  to  escape,  and  that  they  might  not  expect 
10  be  liberated  until  the  whole  of  the  stolen  articles, 
which  their  people  had  taken,  were  returned ;  also, 
in  the  event  of  the  articles  not  being  recovered,  they 
would  then  be  carried  on  board  the  ship,  and  detained 
prisoners  until  all  the  things  were  re^fored.     This 
determination  was  communicated  to  the  natives  of  the 
district,  who,  to  the  number  of  between  eight  and  nine 
hundred,  assembled  by  break  of  day  the  next  morning, 
all  armed  with  spears  and  clubs,  with  a  determina- 
tion  of  rescuing  their  chiefs  from  conjflnement ;  they 
halted  at  the  distance  of  abou^  fifty  yards  from  our 
bamboo  fort.    As  our  number  consisted  of  only  about 
thirty  men,  but  mostly  armed  with  muskets  and  cut- 


(     232     ) 


lasses,  having  also  two  swivel  guns  mounted  on  posts, 
and  surrounded  with  a  fence  about  seven  feet  high, 
the  captain  resolved  to  withstand  an  assault ;  eveiy 
man  was  therefore  at  his  post,  with  the  guns  double 
shotted,  in  expectation  of  the  dreaded  moment.  Had 
they  commenced  an  attack,  our  little  band  could 
not  possibly  have  iii'ed  more  than  one  round,  which  pro- 
bably might  have  destroyed  many ;  but  then  the  num- 
ber of  our  opponents  was  so  great  that  we  should  have 
been  overpowered,  and  no  doubt  destroyed  without 
mercy.  Their  chiefs  being  in  our  power  might  pror 
bably  have  prevented  an  assault.  But  providentially, 
a  negotiation  was  entered  into,  which  stipulated  that 
every  article  should  be  restored  immediately ;  that  then 
the  chiefs  should  be  liberated,  and  a  friendly  inter- 
course sbf  aid  succeed.  With  these  articles  the  chiefs 
complied ;  when,  in  the  course  of  an  hour,  the  whole 
were  brought  back,  and  the  chiefs  accordingly  dis- 
charged. We  some  time  afterwards  resided  peace- 
ably  among  them,  and  for  an  axe,  or  red  cloak,  they 
frequently  assisted  in  our  laborious  work.  Having 
thus  completed  several  rafis,  they  were  despatched  to 
the  ship,  which  was  laying  at  the  distance  of  about 
40  miles,  and  prevented  from  cominj  nearer  in  conse- 
quence of  shoals ;  but  after  very  great  labour  in  pre- 
paring the  rafts,  several  of  them  were  lost  by  the 
swell  of  the  seas  in  the  roadstead,  whi:h  occasioned 
the  rafts  to  work  and  chafe  in  such  a  manner  as  to 
break  the  strongest  lashing ;  by  which  bad  success, 
our  time  was  considerably  prolonged  beyond  what 
the  captain  bad  determined*    .During  our  stay  here^ 


(    233     ) 

the  -weather  was  exceedingly  boisterous,  attended 
with  heavy  rains ;  and  the  sliip  laying  at  such  a  dis- 
tance and  very  much  exposed,  we  had  reason  to  fear 
her  safety.  The  roadstead  being  about  twenty  miles 
ncross,  the  anchorage  muddy  and  mixed  with  sharp 
shells,  and  from  the  frequent  gales,  and  heavy  seas, 
the  cables  have  been  so  much  damaged  by  working 
in  the  mud,  that  they  have  been  obliged  to  cut  off 
from  5  to  8  fathoms  at  a  time.  Having  been  sent  one 
day  on  board  the  Flumo  by  Captain  W.,  I  was  in- 
formed that  one  of  our  rafts  which  had  broken  loose 
from  the  boat  in  a  gale  had  drifted  on  shore  at  the 
mouth  of  the  river.  Obtaining  a  canoe  and  one  man, 
I  immediately  went  in  search  of  it;  but  before  we 
arrived  to  the  mouth  of  the  river,  a  breeze  springing 
up,  created  too  dangerous  a  swell  for  a  small  canoe* 
thereby  ;b^ompelling  us  to  put  on  shore  at  the  distance 
of  about  two  miles  from  the  raft ;  but  fearing  the  canoe 
roiglit  be  lost,  I  left  the  man  in  charge  of  her,  and 
proceeded  overland  to  the  raft  myself. 
-  I  had  not  proceeded  far,  before  I  was  met  by  a 
considerable  body  of  natives,  and  in  progressing,  saw 
still  greater  numbers;  so  that  in  the  short  distance  I 
had  to  travel,  I  must  have  passed  not  less  than  from 
four  to  five  thousand;  who,  I  was  informed,  were 
assembled  for  the  purpose  of  making  war  upon  another 
tribe,  on  the  opposite  shore.  They  wei-e  frightful  in 
their  appearance,  being  singidarly  dressed  in  their  war 
habits,  and  painted  in  a  ludicrous  manner;  and  the 
whole  armed  with  spears,  about  fifteen  feet  in  length, 
and  clubs;  which  to  me  made  th«m  appear  very  tCB- 

'    X  2 


(     234    )  * 

rific.    By  their  behaviour,  I  liad  reason  to  imagine 
that  the  great  majonty  had  never  seen  a  European 
before;    for  the   treatment  vhich   I  was  patiently 
obliged  to  bear  was  very  insulting :  but  though  thus 
roughly  handled  in  going,  it  was  greatly  increased  in 
returning;   which  excited  alarming  fears  that  from 
their  savage  disposition  I  momently  expected  to  be 
devoured.     However,  having  arrived  at  the  raft,  I 
found  that  the  timber  had  been  driven  so  high  on  the 
shore  that  it  could  not  be  got  off,  without  much  diffi- 
culty ;  but  as  I  was  now  surrounded  by  the  multitude, 
who  were  shouting  and  yelling  in  a  most  hideous 
manner,  and  myself  trembling  like  an  aspen  leaf;  I  at 
length  endeavoured  to  divert  them  by  begging  a  piece 
of  string  to  measure  the  length  and  diameter  of  the 
timber,  and,  by  making  some  marks,  and  tying  knots 
00  the  string,  arrested  their  attention  so  as  to  crep  ^ 
silence,  and  for  a  short  time,  any  further  abuse.   I 
as  it  was  necessary  now  to  attempt  returning,  the!r 
deportment  becatne  more  violent    and  oppressive; 
some  spitting  in  my  face,  others  throwing  sticks  and 
stones,  some  attempting  to  throw  me  down,  some  to 
untie  my  small  clothes,  and  various  other  modes  of 
Insult  were  used,  and  in  expectation,  every  moment 
of  receiving  my  death-blow,  made  it  a  very  painful 
ordeal,  though  not  with  fire  and  water,  yet  with  mud, 
water,  and  filth  in  great  profusion.  Having  arrived  be- 
yond the  different  encampments,  and  an  opeo  beach 
l)efore  me,  my  fears  compelled  me  to  the  resolution 
of  trying  their  agil'ty  in  running;  but  as  soon  as  I 
$larted,  they  commenced  the  most  hideous  yellings  and 


i4u^\. 


(     235     ) 

dreadful  noises,  and  a  great  majority  in  full  pursuit,  like 
80  many  hounds  after  an  unprotected  and  innocent  hare; 
this,  together  with  increasing  fears,  commanded  double 
exertion ;  so  that  I  believe  I  never  before,  or  since, 
ran  so  swift.  My  efforts  were  crowned  with  success ; 
for,  upon  gaining  considerably  over  my  pursuers, 
they  shortly  after  relinquished  the  chase ;  which  gave 
me  time  to  breathe  and  return  peaceably  to  my  canoe. 
The  tide  having  fallen  considerably,  I  was  obliged  to 
walk  through  the  mud  to  embark,  which,  with  the 
filth  I  had  received  from  the  savages,  rendered  me, 
in  that  plight,  not  the  most  desirable  companion  in  the 
world.  And  it  must  be  confessed  that  a  little  morti- 
fication was  entertained  that  I  had  not  an  opportunity 
of  chastising  their  savage  insolence,  and  teaching  them 
better  discipline.  On  returning  to  the  woodcutters, 
we  found  the  captain  and  party  somewhat  disturbed 
io  consequence  of  a  repetition  of  the  thievish  dispo- 
ffltion  of  the  natives ;  for,  notwithstanding  the  former 
example,  they  persevered  in  maletreating  the  men, 
and  securing  their  axes,  which  rendered  it  necessary 
that  the  guard  should  be  doubled ;  '*  so  we  laboured 
in  the  work :  half  holding  the  musket  from  the  rising 
of  the  morning  till  the  stars  appeared."  A  serious 
loss  was  sustuned,  when  we  had  nearly  completed  our 
cargo,  by  being  deprived  of  our  long-boat.  It  was 
alongside  the  ship  at  the  commencement  of  a  gale  of 
wind,  which  blowing  uncommonly  hard,  it  was  abso- 
lutely necessary  that  she  should  be  despatched  for 
shelter  to  the  river ;  which  was  accordingly  attended 
to,  under  the  charge  of  the  fourth  officer  and  the 


(     236    ) 

regular  crew.  But,  on  approaching  near  the  mouth 
of  the  river,  night  commenciug  very  dark,  and  the 
channel  being  rendered  difficult  by  numerous  soft 
mud  banks;  the  officer  ^ras  deceived  in  the  soundiogs, 
the  boat  struck,  and  through  the  violence  of  the  urind, 
snd  heaving  seas,  nrhich  fell  right  on  the  bank,  she 
was  cast  so  far  thereon,  that  it  was  found  altogether 
imprarticable  to  get  her  off  afterwards.  This  unplea- 
lant  circumstance  damped  our  ardour  iu  the  accom- 
plishment of  our  object,  and  was  also  a  severe  trial  to 
me;  for  as  iTie  boat's  crew  were  destitute  of  provi- 
sions, and  not  having  any  for  three  days,  it  was  ne- 
cessary that  an  attempt  should  be  made  to  relieve 
them ;  Captain  W.  therefore  requested  me  to  undertake 
that  office.  Accordingly  I  proceeded  with  eight 
men  in  Ihe  pinnace  with  provisions;  intending  also 
to  cliect  the  deliverance  of  the  boat  from  the  strand; 
but  before  the  tide  would  favour  our  approach,  night 
came  on  exceedingly  dark,  accompanied  with  a  smart 
gaie,  and  constant  rain.  However,  we  endeavoured 
to  get  as  near  as  possible,  to  wait  till  tlie  tide  had 
sufficiently  risen ;  but  having  grounded  when  at  the 
distance  of  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  we  Were  shori'y 
after  left  immoveable  in  the  mud,  and  in  our  wet 
clothes,  exposed  to  the  beating  rain  and  piercing 
wind,  till  the  returning  tide ;  when  we  were  deliirered 
from  our  uncomfortable  situation,  without  eifecting 
the  object  of  our  message.  We  werr  thuu  harassed 
about  a  week,  in  various  attempts  to  get  off  the  boat, 
but  all  efforts  were  ineffectual ;  and  ultimately,  we 
were  obliged  to  abandon  her  to  the  natives.    lo  the 


(     23t     ) 

last  attempt  I  endeavoured  to  walk  through  the  mud, 
aod  as  a  precaution,  I  had  previously  fastened  on  mj 
shoes  with  spunyarn;  but  bad  not  proceeded  more 
than  twenty  yards,  walking  up  to  my  middle  at  every 
step,  when,  finding  my  strengtli  exhausted  by  the  ex- 
cessive labour,  I  was  obliged  to  stand  still  and  call 
out  for  help  to  some  friendly  natives  at  a  short  dis- 
tance, who  directly  relieved  me  from  the  perilous 
situation ;  for  as  i'^  was  impossible  for  me  to  move  to- 
wards either  of  the  boats,  I  should  in  all  probability 
have  been  overwhelmed,  had  it  not  been  for  their 
assistance. 

As  the  people  were  engaged  in  iihipping  a  tree,  it 
was  necessary  that  one  should  fasten  a  rope  to  the  end 
that  was  in  the  water,  in  order  to  r9is*s  it  parallel  with 
the  orlop  deck;  but  while  the  man  was  engaged  in 
this  employ,  a  monstrous  large  shark  arose  very  near 
him,  and  immediately  attempted  to  seize  his  prey, 
providentially  the  devouring  fish  was  discovered 
in  time  for  the  man  to  effect  his  escape  into  the 
boat. 

Having  at  length  completed  our  cargo,  by  perse- 
vering through  many  difficult  circumstances,  we  sail- 
ed from  New  Zealand  about  the  middle  of  June,  1801, 
with  a  favourable  breeze  towards  the  Island  Otaheite, 
though  not  without  considerable  regret,  on  leaving 
my  old  friend  Patrick  Riley  and  my  other  friends 
behind.  I  interceded  with  Captain  W.  in  behalf  of 
Riley,  that  he  might  take  passage  in  our  ship ;  but,  in 
consequence  X)f  his  being  a  convict,  and  as  his  ma- 
jesty's ship  the  Porpoise  was  expected  to  be  at  Otpr- 


(    238    ) 

heite  on  our  arrival,  the  captain  refused  the  request, 
supposing  that  some  difficulties  might  arise  therefrom. 
New  Zealand  was  first  discovered  by  Tasman,  ia 
1642.    He  traversed  the  east  coast  from  lat.  34**  to 
43*>  isouth,  and  entered  a  strait:  but  being  attacked 
by  the  natives,  soon  after  he  came  to  an  anchor,  in  the 
place  to  which  he  gave  the  name  of  Murderers^  Bay^ 
he  did  not  go  on  shore.  He  called  the  country  Staten 
Land,  in  honour  of  the  states  general,  though  it  has 
generally  been  distinguistied  in  our  maps  and  charts 
by  the  name  of  New  Zealand.    From  the  time  of 
Tasman,  the  whole  country,  except  that  part  of  the 
coast  which  was  seen  by  him,  remained  altogether 
unknown,  and  was  supposed  by  many  to  make  part  of 
a  southern  continent,  till  the  year  1770,  when  it  was 
circumnavigated  by  Captain  Cook ;  who  found  it  to 
consist  of  two  large  islands,  separated  by  a  strait  four 
or  five  leagues  broad,  to  which  he  gave  his  own  name. 
On  the  west  side  of  this  strait,  in  lat.  41®  S.  Queen 
Charlotte's  Sound  is  situated ,  which  was  made  a  pli[i>> ' 
ciipal  place  of  rendezvous  in  his  subsequent  voyages. 
These  islands  lie  between  the  latitudes  of  34**  and 
48*»  south,  and  between  the  longitude  of  166**  and 
180**  east.     The  winters  are  milder  than  in  England, 
and  the  summers  not  hotter,  though  more  equally 
warm. 

Among  the  vegetable  productions,  the  trees  claim 
a  principal  place.  There  are  forests  of  vast  extent, 
(iill  of  the  ,6traightc8t  and  largest  timber,  of  various 
kinds,  and  no  doubt  suitable  for  all  descriptions  of 
buildings.  One  grows  as  large  as  an  oak,  and  is  dia* 
2 


(     230    ) 

tioguislied  by  a  scarlet  flower;  the  wood  of  this  is 
hard  aod  heavy.      The  trees  we  were  id  quest  of 
are  very  abundant,  and  remarkably  tall  and  straight; 
they  are  of  the  spruce  kind;  and,  as  it  respects  their 
diameter  and  height,  are  well  calculated  for  masts 
and  buildings ;  but  their  quality  for  strength  and  du- 
rability is  doubtful.     The  flax-plant  is  very  abundant, 
and  chiefly  grows  in  marshy  ground ;  it  is  a  broad- 
bladed  leaf,  of  about  six  feet  in  height;  the  fibrous 
parts  constitute  the  flax ;  it  is  very  durable  and  fine 
in  quality,  and  no  doubt  cloths  of  every  texture  may 
be  manufactured  with  it.     Perhaps  in  process  of  time 
a  colony  may  be  established  on  this  island,  in  the 
event  of  which,  the  culture  of  this  plant,  and  manu- 
facturing of  it  into  cloths,  will  become  a  staple  com- 
modity.     The  natives  display  great  ingenuity  in 
working  their  garments;    they  very  expeditiously 
strip  the  flax  of  its  refuse  by  a  common  shell,  and  it 
IS  immediately  fit  Tor  working.    Their  mode  of  manu- 
facturing is  ingenious,  and  the  cloth  is  delightfully 
soft  and  regular  in  its  texture.         o  thread  is  twisted 
on  the  knee,  and  the  cloth  curiousiy  knotted  with  the 
fingers,  and  with  only  the  eye  to  reguhue  the  work. 
Their  clothes,  fishing-tackle,  canoe-rigging,  &c.  are 
made  of  this  plant. 

When  Captain  Cook  visited  this  island,  he  intro- 
duced many  of  the  European  vegetables,  but  they 
appeared  to  be  wholly  neglected,  excepting  the  potato. 
to  the  culture  of  which  considerable  attention  was 
paid;  extensive  fields  of  them  were  observed;  they 
were  very  fine,  aod  no  douU  greatly  improved  by  the 


f    240    ) 

change  of  soiL  The  natives  have  store-houses  fot 
the  preservation  of  the  potatoes  built  in  a  neat  and 
very  secure  manner.  The  stores  appeared  to  be 
general  stock.  Potatoes  and.  fish  are  the  common 
food  of  the  inhabitants,  but  sometimes  they  treat 
themselves  with  a  dog,  which,  with  rats,  are  appa- 
rently the  only  quadrupeds. 

The  people  are  ferocious  and  cruel,  and  are  uni- 
formly cannibals;  wars  are  therefore  frequently 
made  that  they  may  be  indulged  in  the  inhuman 
banquet  which  is  the  consequence  of  victory.  Their 
weapons  of  war  are  lances,  about  15  feet  in  length, 
and  darts,  and  a  kind  of  battle-axes ;  the  latter  are 
generally  made  of  stone,  finely  polished ;  and  some 
are  made  of  petrified  fish  skin ;  many  of  their  me- 
chanic tools,  and  ornaments,  are  also  made  of  this  ma- 
terial :  (a  specimen  of  their  addice  has  been  presented 
to  the  American  Museum  in  Chatham-street) 

Their  canoes  are  numerous,  and  of  various  sizes, 
and  are  mostly  made  of  one  solid  tree.  The  labour 
and  perseverance  in  completing  their  canoes  are  great, 
especially  when  we  view  the  instruments  of  their 
mechanism;  which  are  only  a  stone  addice,  and  a 
bone  chisel :  nevertheless,  the  work  is  executed  in  a 
neat  style,  and  considerably  ornamented.  Their  war 
canoes  are  from  eighty  to  one  hundred  feet  in  length, 
and  are  capable  of  carrying  from  one  to  two  hundred 
warriors.  The  mode  of  hollowing  the  tree  to  make 
a  canoe,  is  by  making  numerous  fires,  which,  when 
burnt  to  a  sufficient  depth,  are  extinguished,  and  the 
inside  is  tlien  trimmed  by  the  addice.  and  polished 
with  a  stone. 


(    ?41     ) 

The  men  are  stout,  well  made,  and  fleshy;,  but  not 
generally  so  corpulent  as  the  Otaheiteans.  They  are 
also  vigorous  and  active,  and  of  quick  understanding* 
The  women  are  smaller,  and  not  so  tall  as  the  men; 
and  in  the  graceftilness  of  their  form,  and  cleanliness 
of  their  persons,  the  women  of  the  Society  Islands  far 
exceed  them.  The  general  colour  of  the  New  Zea- 
landcrs  is  about  a  shade  darker  than  the  Otaheiteans* 
Both  sexes  have  good  features;  but  their  persons  are 
ornamented,  or  rather  disfigured,  by  the  uniform 
practice  of  marking  on  their  bodies  various  figures, 
which  is  called  tattooing. 

Captain  Cook,  in  his  first  voyage,  is  said  to  have 
introduced  the  £uropean  breed  of  poultiy ;  and  in  his 
second  visit  had  the  satisfaction  to  find  them  greatly 
increased,  both  in  a  wild  and  domestic  state,  beyond 
all  danger  of  being  ever  exterminated.  In  that  part  of 
the^  country  where  we  were  situated,  (viz.  the  River 
Thames,)  there  was  not  so  much  as  a  feather  of  Eu- 
ropean poultry  to  be  observed ;  the  probability,  there* 
fore,  is,  that  the  brood  is  either  destroyed,  or  they 
were  left  by  the  captain  in  some  other  part  of  the 
island,  probably  Ctueen  Charlotte's  Sound. 

Their  fish  are  very  abundant,  and  of  various 
kinds,  which  are  not  only  wholesome,  but  equally 
delicious  with  those  in  any  part  of  the  world.  The 
mode  of  catching  them  is  principally  with  nets,  which 
are  planted  with  stakes,  similar  to  the  custom  used  in 
most  of  our  rivers.  The  soil,  for  many  miles  on  each 
side  of  the  river,  i&  a  black  rich  mould;  and  yields 
the  inhabitants  abundant  harvests  of  potatoes. 


(    242    ) 

As  it  respects  their  religion  and  modes  of  worsliip, 
we  had  no  opportunity  of  making  inquiry;  and  in- 
deed others,  who  have  visited  the  New  Zealanders, 
and  who  have  made  it  their  more  particular  business  to 
investigate  these  subjects,  are  left  in  oliiscurity.  **  But 
it  is  certain  that  they  acknowledge  the  influence  of 
superior  beings,  one  of  whom  is  supreme  and  the  rest 
subordinate.  One  of  these  islanders  appeared  to  have 
a  much  more  deep  and  extensive  knowledge  of  these 
subjects  than  any  of  the  other  people;  and  whenever 
he  was  disposed  to  instruct  them,  which  he  did  some- 
times in  long  discourses,  he  was  sure  of  a  numerous 
audience,  who  listened  in  profound  silence,  with  much 
reverence  and  attention. 

What  homage  they  pay  to  the  deities  could  not 
be  learned  no  place  of  public  worship  was  visible; 
but  near  a  plantation  of  sweet  potatoes  was  seen  a 
small  area,  of  a  square  figure,  surrounded  with  stones, 
in  the  middle  of  which  one  of  the  sharpened  stakes 
which  they  use  as  a  spade  was  set  up,  and  upon  it 
was  hung  a  basket  of  fern-roots,  which  the  natives 
said  was  an  ofTeriug  to  the  gods,  by  wliich  the  owner 
hoped  to  render  them  propitious,  and  obtain  a  plentiful 
crop. 

Their  manner  of  disposing  of  the  dead  varied  in 
different  parts  of  the  island.  In  the  north,  they  bu^ 
lied  them  in  the  ground ;  in  the  south,  they  threw 
them  into  the  sea.  No  grave  was  to  be  seen  in  the 
country,  and  the  inhabitants  affect  to  conceal  every 
thing  relating  to  the  dead  with  a  sort  of  mysterious 
secrecy.    But  whatever  may  be  the  sepulchre*  the 


(    243    ) 

living  are  themselves  the  moDumeDts ;  for  scarcely  a 
sioi^le  person  is  to  be  seen  of  either  sex,  whose  body 
is  not  marked  by  the  scars  of  wounds  which  have 
been  inflicted,  as  a  testimony  of  their  regret  for  the 
loss  of  a  relation  or  friend. 


(     244     ) 


CHAPTER  IX. 


Voyage  to  Otaheitei— ^Reception  by  the  natives.^— Circumstan- 
ces of  the  Missionaries  who  were  left  on  the  island.^Death 
of  Mr.  Lewis.— >Temaree  and  several  of  the  natives  dread- 
fully burnt  by  the  explosion  of  gunpowder.— Discouragements 
of  the  Missionaries.— Resume  the  voyage  towards  China. 
—Arrive  at  the  Friendly  Islands. — Take  off  Mr.  Veeson,  one 
of  the  Missionaries. — Circumstances  of  the  Islanders.- See 
the  Island  Rotuma.— -Thievish  disposition  of  the  natives^-* 
Touch  at  the  Hoorn  Islands. — Providential  escape.— Arrive 
at  the  Navigators'  Islands.-^The  captain  is  robbed  of  clothes 
and  books.-— Several  of  the  natives  detained  prisoners. — An 
American  visited  the  ship  here. — Sail  towards  China.-— 
Make  the  Ladrone  Islands,  and  pass  between  Saypan  and 
Tinian. — Great  numbers  of  cattle. — Arri  at  the  Barhee 
Islands. — A  storm,  and  providential  escape  from  shipwreck. 
— Fleets  of  Chinese  boats. — Anchor  near  Macao. — A  dread- 
ful storm. — Arriive  at  Whampoa. — Description  of  Canton, 
theiv  place  of  worship,  and  some  otiier  parts  of  the  empire.. 
—An  attempt  to  go  into  the  city  of  Canton.— Pursued  by  a 
party  of  Chinese. 


After  a  pleasant  voyage  of  about  three  weeks,  we 
arrived  safe  at  the  island  Otaheite,  on  the  10th  of  July, 
1801,  without  experiencing  any  thing  very  remark- 
able.   Found  the  Missionaries  well  iQ  health ;  but  It 


(    245    ) 

appeared  that  they  had  been  subjected  to  many  se« 
nous  difficulties  and  indignities  by  the  King  Otoo 
and  his  party,  and  had  often  suffered  the  want  of  the 
common  necessaries  of  life;  that  they  were  obliged  to 
uncover  their  heads,  and  as  low  as  their  breasts,  when 
they  passed  the  king,  or  his  sacred  residences,  in  con- 
formity to  the  prevailing  custom  of  that  island ;  and 
that  Mr.  Lewis,  who  had  separated  from  the  body, 
shortly  after  the  Missionaries  sailed  to  Fort  Jackson, 
had  died,  but  was  supposed  to  have  been  killed  by 
the  natives  in  order  that  they  might  possess  his  pro- 
perty. Agreeably  to  our  expectations,  his  majesty's 
ship  the  Porpoise  was  at  the  island,  for  the  purpose 
of  collecting  a  cargo  of  pork  for  the  colony  at  New 
South  Wales.  As  the  Royal  Admiral  was  working 
into  Matavai  Bay,  she  was  soon  surrounded  by  innu- 
merable canoes,  and  the  natives  gazing  with  astonisb- 
Bient  at  the  size  of  the  ship;  but  the  moment  I  was 
recognised  standing  on  the  gangway,  the  informa- 
tion was  directly  circulated  among  them,  and  suc- 
ceeded by  a  universal  repetition  of  Omitte-d;  the 
name  by  which  I  was  known  among  them.  The  ship 
was  soon  crowded  with  the  natives,  who  expressed  their 
satisfaction  at  the  return  of  their  friend;  but  when 
they  saw  Captain  W.  they  were  peculiarly  elated,  and 
welcomed  his  revisit  by  an  abundant  supply  of  pro- 
visions and  cloth  of  every  description.  The  arrival 
of  the  Royal  Admiral  with  an  additional  number  of 
nine  Missionaries,  was  a  highly  gratifying  circum- 
stance to  the  brethren  on  the  island :  also  Mr.  Shelly, 
one  of  the  Missionaries  who  hp.d  been  driven  from 

Y2 


(     246     ) 

tlie  island  Tongataboo,  haviov  married  a  young  "wc^ 
man  at  Port  Jackson,  had  arrived  in  the  Porpoise 
with  liis  wife,  designing  to  settle  at  Otaheite.  Mr. 
and  Mrs.  Henry,  with  their  family,  had  previously 
arrived  in  the  ship  Eliza,  Captain  Swain  j  the  return 
of  Mrs.  Henry  was  a  pleasing  event  to  Mrs.  Eyre, 
as  she  had  been  so  long  on  the  island  without  a 
female  companion.  Mr.  Henry  brought  from  Port 
Jackson  some  parrots,  pigeons,  rabbits,  sheep,  geese, 
and  Muscovy  ducks,  witli  which  the  natives  were 
liighly  pleased.  The  Missionaries  gave  an  account 
of  a  war  which  had  broken  out  shortly  after  the 
sailing  of  the  Nautilus  for  Port  Jackson,  in  which 
they  were  exposed  to  great  danger:  but  as  three 
ships  were  lying  in  the  harbour  at  the  commencement 
of  the  war,  the  captains,  and  a  part  of  the  crews, 
afforded  them  protection,  and  gave  the  king  and  his 
party  a  decided  superiority  in  the  island.  Also,  that 
Pomarree  had  died  suddenly  in  his  canoe,  as  he  was 
going  off  to  a  ship  in  the  harbour.  Upon  the  de- 
parture of  the  Nautilus,  the  Missionaries  who  were 
left  on  the  island  delivered  up  the  public  store  room, 
with  all  it  contained,  into  the  hands  of  Pomarree,  and 
also  offered  him  their  private  property ;  he  accepted 
the  former,  but  refused  the  latter.  About  five  months 
after  the  separation,  an  occurrence  happened  which 
excited  alarm:  Teraaree,  called  also  Orepiah,  to 
whose  interest  Otoo  was  strongly  attached  against  his 
father  Pomarree,  having  received  some  gunpowder 
from  the  ships  which  had  lately  been  at  Otaheite, 
and   suspecting    it  was  not   good  from  the  large- 


(    247     ) 

ness  of  the  grains,  proposed  to  his  attendants  to  try 
it;  a  loaded  pistol  was  unthinkingly  fired  over  tlie 
whole  quantity  received,  into  which  some  sparks  fell ; 
it  blew  up,  and  dreadfully  wounded  Temaree  and 
five  others.    A  message  was  immediately  sent  to  Po- 
marree,  who  was  then  in  Matavai;  he  applied  in- 
stantly to  the    society  for  medical   aid,  when  Mr. 
Broom  hall,  having  as  quickly  as  possible  made  up  a 
Suitable  remedy,  accompanied  by  Mr.  Harris,  went, 
and  found  Temaree   in  a  dreadful  situation.     The 
medicine  was   applied   with  a  cameFs  hair  brush, 
which  the  chief  bore  more  patiently  than  was  ex- 
pected;  but  upon  visiting  him  the  next  day,  they 
found  him  covered  with  a  thick  paste,  wliich  proved 
to  be  the  scrapings  of  yams ;  both  he  and  his  wife 
were  very  angry  with  Mr.  Broomhall,  because  of  the 
pain  the  chief  had  experienced  from  the  application; 
saying,  that  ''  the  Missionaries'  God  had  put  a  curse 
into  the  medicine."    Upon  inquiry,  Mr.  B.  found 
that  five  others  had  been  dreadfully  hurt;  only  two 
of  these  would  permit  him  to  dress  them ;  and  while 
he  was  dressing  one,  the  wife  of  Temaree  came,  and 
with  an  air  of  contempt,  uttered  an  unintelligible 
speech,  which  Mr.  B.  thought  was,  "  he  will  kill  the 
other  after  he  has  done  him,"  and  the  man  refused  to 
be  dressed.    Soon  after,  Mr.  B.  and  his  companion, 
going  from  the  house,  met  the  king,  whom  he  ad- 
dressed with  the  usual  salutations,  which  were  re- 
turned with  a  fallen  countenance  without  a  word, 
which  usually  precedes  a  command  to  kill  the  ob- 
ject of  his  anger.    The  villains  that  surrounded  him 


(    248     ) 

immediately  fixed  their  eyes  upon  the  two  Missiona- 
ries,  and  Otoo  laid  his  hands  upon  one  of  their  shoul- 
ders, and  desired  one  of  his  men  to  come  to  him. 
Mr.  Broomhall  and  Harris,  greatly  alarmed,  with- 
drew from  these  savages,  and  unexpectedly  reached 
their  brethren  at  Matavai.  The  cause  of  Otoo's 
anger  was  a  persuasion  that  they  had  cursed  the 
medicine,  that  it  might  kill  the  greatest  man  in  the 
island,  with  whom  the  king  was  in  league  against  his 
father  and  mother.  The  issue  of  this  accident  was 
anxiously  waited  for  by  the  king,  queen,  Fomarree, 
Iddeah  and  Manne  Manne.  The  Missionaries  sup- 
posed that  the  death  of  Temaree  would  give  much 
secret  pleasure  to  Fomarree  and  others,  who  seemed 
to  dread  the  close  union  subsisting  between  Otoo  and 
.Temaree.  And  they  observed,  that,  "  though  the 
wheels  of  political  government  are  not  so  many  as  in 
our  native  island,  yet  they  are  more  in  number  than 
any  would  conceive  fvora  the  nide  and  barbarous  state 
the  nation  are  in.  They  have  their  plots  and  court 
intrigues,  their  parties  and  partizaos,  as  well  here  as 
in  England ;  and  they  are  as  important  in  their  way, 
as  in  the  most  refined  court  *  in  Europe.*  *' 

Temaree  died  in  about  eight  days,  and  the  man 
who  refused  to  be  dressed  by  Mr.  Broomhall ;  the  one 
who  used  his  remedy  recovered,  but  respecting  the 
other  three  tliey  had  no  information.  These  people 
make  war  upon  the  most  trivial  occasions,  and  there  is 
much  jealousy  of  each  other  in  the  different  chiefs, 
80  that  the  Missionaries  are  frequently  in  a  state  of 
alarm.    Soon  after  the  death  of  Temaree,  Otoo  made 


(    249    )  m 

war  upon  the  district  of  Matavai,  because  Pomarree's 
orator  had  spoken  some  disrespectful  words  concern* 
ing  Temaree's  corpse.  At  the  close  of  the  year  1 798 
Manne  Manne  was  killed  hj  the  man  with  whom 
Iddeah  resides;  it  was  supposed  that  Pomarree  sent 
to  Edea  for  this  purpose,  and  that  Otoo  consented  to 
his  death.  The  Missionaries  had  made  several  ex- 
cui'sions  through  the  island  in  small  parties  to  preach 
to  the  natives,  some  of  whom  heard  with  attention ; 
some  asked  pertinent  questions,  and  some  young  men 
were  overheard  in  conversation,  giving  a  tolerable 
clear  account  of  the  subjects  that  had  been  discoursed 
upon ;  one  boy  said,  "  they  sent  the  Duff  last,  if  they 
had  sent  the  gospel  by  the  first  ship,  their  feather 
gods  would  have  been  thrown  away  long  ago;"  but 
as  yet  they  see  no  real  benefit  accruing  from  their 
religious  instructions.  The  number  of  Missionaries 
living  on  the  island  Otaheite  when  the  Royal  Admi- 
ral left,  was  three  married  men  with  their  wives  and 
children,  and  eleven  single  men.  The  Missionaries 
who  arrived  id  the  Royal  Admiral  appeared  much 
pleased  with  the  island  and  its  productions.  On  their 
disembarkation,  they  proceeded  to  prepare  themselves 
suitable  apartments,  and  making  other  necessary 
arrangements,  in  which  they  were  aidtd  by  Captam 
Wilson  and  a  part  of  the  ship's  company ;  which  being 
conspleted,  and  the  Missionaries  comfortably  situated, 
we  sailed,  about  the  middle  of  July,  1801,  towards 
China,  the  captain  intending  in  the  route  to  explore 
more  fully  the  different  groups  of  islands  in  these  seas. 
We  passed  to  the  eastward  of  £imGo,  and  arrived  off 


*  (    250    ) 

Heuine  in  the  society  group,  distant  from  Otabeile 
about  ninety  miles,  where  we  procured  a  further  sup- 
ply of  provisions,  which,  with  the  abundance  received 
at  Otahelte  and  other  islands,  made  our  number  of 
hogs  of  different  sizes  amount  to  about  five  hundred, 
and  which  afforded  our  ship's  company  fresh  provi- 
sions every  day  during  the  whole  of  the  voyage  to 
China.     The  repetition  of  fresh  pork  so  frequently 
caused  the  men  to  solicit  a  change  of  their  daily  fare, 
from  fresh  to  salt.     After  tarrying  two  days  among 
these  islands,  we  sailed  towards  the  friendly  group, 
where  we  arrived  after  a  pleasant  passage  of  about 
ten  days;  came  to  anchor  at  the  island  Vavao,  where 
we  expected  to  be  supplied  abundantly  with  yams  and 
other  roots ;  but,  in  consequence  of  the  desolating  war 
which  bad   prevailed  among  these  islanders,  every 
description  of  provisions  was  very  scarce;  in  short, 
the  inhabitants  were  reduced  to  a  state  of  starvation. 
These  islands,  which  were  once  flourishing  and  fruit- 
ful, and  the  natives  strong  and  healthy,  were  now  re- 
duced to  the  most  abject  state  of  beggary  and  want; 
all  we  could  procure  here  were  a  few  yams,  some 
water,  and  a  few  plantain  trees  to  provision  our  hogs. 
A  supply  of  these  roots  would  have  been  very  ac- 
ceptable in  our  situation,  for,  upon  a  survey  of  the 
ship's  dry  provision,  the  major  part  of  it  was  found 
much  damaged   and   destroyed  by  rats,  which  had 
made  their  way  through  the  casks,  and  in  many 
formed  nests :  this  rendered  it  necessary  to  make  an 
immediate  search  among  the  islands  for  a  substitute. 
As  we  were  departing  from  the  islaod  Vavao,  a  large 


(    251    ) 

double  canoe  had  just  arrived  from  the  Harpae 
Islands,  liaviDg  on  board  Mr.  Veeson,  one  of  the 
Missionaries,  ^vho  sailed  in  the  Duff,  and  was  left  on 
the  island  Tongataboo  when  his  brethren  sailed  for 
Fort  Jackson :  the  canoe  sailed  very  swiftly  by  the 
ship,  intending,  as  it  afterwards  appeared,  to  prevent 
Veeson  from  coming  on  board ;  however,  he  jumped 
overboard  and  swam  to  a  single  canoe  which  was  near, 
and  requested  the  men  to  carry  him  on  board  the 
ship,  but  they  also  hastened  off  with  him  to  the  shore; 
which  being  observed,  and  reported  to  Captain  W. 
the  pinnace  was  ordered  to  be  immediately  manned, 
to  go  in  puisuit  of  the  canoe,  and  if  possible  to  bring 
Yeeson  on  board :  but  as  the  canoe  had  somewhat  the 
start,  it  was  found  a  difficult  task  to  come  up  with 
her;  notwithstanding  there  were  eifl^ht  stout  rowers 
in  the  boat,  and  the  canoe  having  only  two.     Wlien 
the  boat  had  arrived  within  about  one  hundred  yards 
of  the  shore,  the  men  in  the  canoe  were  just  about 
landing  their  prisoner,  when  he  jumped  overboard  and 
swam  to  our  boat-  and  informed  us  that  the  natives 
intended  to  kill  him,  to  prevent   his  repoi  ting  to  the 
captain  of  their  having  murdered  some  of  the  Mis- 
sionaries at  Tongataboo.     When  Veeson  arrived  on 
board  the  ship«  he  was  interrogated  respecting  the 
state  of  the  islands,  the  cause  of  the  war,  &c.  but  he 
appeared  to  have  lost  the  use  of  his  native  language, 
for  to  the  questions  he  would  answer  in  the  tongue  of 
the  islanders.    When  it  was  observed  to  him  that  he 
was  not  understood,  he  then  answered  a  little  in  En* 
glisli,  but  H}Ou  left  off  again,  and  conversed  in  the 


(    262    ) 

ToDgataboo  language;  and  it  was  a  considerable  time 
after  he  was  on  board  the  ship  before  he  could  be 
corrected.  Two  days  after  leaving  this  island,  we 
arrived  at  another  called  RotuuM,  where  we  hoped, 
by  bartering  with  the  natives,  to  procure  some  yams, 
&c.  On  nearing  the  land  about  fifty  or  sixty  canoes 
came  off,  but  scarcely  any  of  them  had  any  provision, 
and  the  people  were  exceedingly  careful  in  parting 
-with  what  little  they  had;  they  would  not  so  much  as 
part  with  a  bread-fruit  or  cocoa-nut  without  demanding 
more  than  its  value.  We  found  it  very  hard  to  deal 
with  these  people,  and  only  obtained  a  few  yams  at  an 
exorbitant  rate.  During  this  traffic  one  of  the  na- 
tives sold  a  small  pig  for  a  knife;  but  the  fellow, 
having  received  the  knife  first,  refused  afterwards  to 
give  up  the  pig,  which  behig  reported  to  one  of  the 
officers  he  fired  a  few  small  shot  at  him;  the  poor  fel- 
low felt  the  effects  of  the  discharge,  and  immediately 
leaped  from  the  canoe  into  the  water  in  the  greatest 
confusion,  but  was  soon  received  into  his  canoe  again 
by  his  comrades.  This  circumstance  put  an  instan- 
taneous period  to  the  traffic ;  for  when  the  natives 
were  made  acquainted  with  the  situation  of  their 
countrymen,  they  immediately  paddled  off  to  the 
shore,  and  we  saw  no  more  of  them  afterwards.  Upon 
this  we  shaped  our  course  towards  the  Hoom  Islands, 
where  we  arrived  after  about  eight  days'  passage :  dis- 
covered the  islands  early  in  the  morning  at  the  dis- 
tance of  about  one  degree ;  on  approaching  within 
about  four  leagues,  several  canoes  came  off,  most  of 
which  had  a  small  quantity  of  cloth,  plantains,  cocoa- 


(    253    ) 


nuts,  &e.  oD  board,  but  their  supplies  were  very 
scaDty,  and  for  them  they  also  demanded  extravagant 
prices.     A  chief  of  Tongataboo  was  on  this  island; 
therefore  the  dearness  of  their  articles  was  partly  attri- 
buted to  his  advice.     This  chief  was  known  to  Mr. 
Veeson,  which  was  a  very  providential  circumstance, 
as  through  him  a  destructive  plot  was  discovered, 
which  was  to  cut  off  the  captain  and  boat's  crew  who 
were  then  on  shore;  they  had  just  time  enough  to 
make  their  escape  to  the  boat,  which  was  locked  be- 
tween a  reef  of  coral  rocks,  from  which  it  was  imprac- 
ticable jo  remove  her  till  the  return  of  tide;  but  before 
they  could  effect  their  designs,  we  succeeded  in  get- 
ting the  boat  into  deep  water.      The  women  and  chil- 
dren were  removed,  and  the  men  gathering  for  the 
attack,  and,  humanly  speaking,  the  dreadful  blow  was 
near  at  hand.     We  remained  here  off  and  on  three 
days,  being  principally  employed  in  purchasing  roots 
and  vegetables,  but  with  very  little  success,  and  much 
expense.     These  islands  appear  to  be   thickly  in- 
habited, but   not  so  abundaotly  supplied  as  at  the 
Society  Islands.     The  natives  are  darker  than  the 
Friendly  Islanders,  and  appear  more  savage.   Having 
finished  our  business  here  we  sailed  towards  the  Na- 
vigators* Islands,  where  we  arrived  after  a  short  but 
very  pleasant  passage.    Numerous  canoes  came  off, 
with  produce  for  barter  as  at  the  other  islands ;  but 
these  people  appeared  also  to  be  extortionate.    They 
came  on  board  the  ship  in  great  numbers,  without  the 
least  hesitation ;  but,  becoming  rather  troublesome,  it 
was  necessary  to  keep  a  sharp  look  out  after  thein, 

E 


(     264     ) 

and  to  order  the  majority  into  their  canoes  agsdn;  but 
before  this  coiild  be  accomplished  some  of  the  natives 
had  found  their  way  over  the  mizen  chains  into  the 
captain's  cabin,  and  stole  a  number  of  his  books,  a 
bag  of  clothes,  and  several  other  articles;  the  whole 
of  which  were  nearly  conveyed  into  a  canoe  fastened 
under  the  quarter  to  receive  them,  before  tliey  were 
discovered.     The  canoe  and  thieves  were  secured, 
but  the  books  were  mostly  destroyed  in  consequence 
of  the  canoe^s  being  half  filled  with  water;  and  of  the 
things  stolen  only  a  small  part  were  recovered.    The 
whole  of  the  natives  immediately  paddled  off  to  the 
shore,  (excepting  about  a  dozen  who  were  detained  on 
board  prisoners.)    On  this  occasion  a  few   musket 
shot  were  fired  after  them  when  at  the  distance  of 
about  three  fourths  of  a  mile,  upon  which  they  held 
their  paddles  to  their  heads  to  screen  them  from  the 
effects  of  the  shot.     On  approaching  another  island  of 
the  same  group,  distant  about  two  degrees,  a  canoe 
came  off  having  a  white  person  on  board  who  reported 
himself  to  be  an  American,  and  that  he  had  absconded 
from  a  ship  which  had  touclied  there  about  three 
years  previous  to  our  arrival;  he  expressed  a  wish 
to  embrace  this  opportunity  of  returning  to  his  native 
country,  but  when  the  ship  veered  round  to  take  her 
departure,  he  altered  his  mind,  and  immediately  leaped 
overboard  to  the  canoe,  and  paddled  on  shore;  also 
the  prisoners  who  were  brought  from  the  other  island 
were  liberated,  expressing  their  surprise  that  they 
were  not  punished  according  to  their  deserts.    The 
gupply  of  provisions  procured  at  these  islands  wtt 


;  A  -■. . 


(     255     ) 

also  very  small,  which  was  principally  attributed  to 
the  preceding  unpleasant  circumstances.  Of  all  the 
islands  iu  the  Pacific  Ocean  these  appeared  to  be  the 
most  beautiful  and  prolific;  the  trees  and  herbage 
covering  them  with  evergreens,  from  the  lowest  lands 
to  the  summits  of  the  highest  mountains;  and  the 
whole  forming  one  of  the  grandest  scenes  of  nature 
which  I  ever  beheld.  The  inhabitants  are  uniformly 
strong,  healthy,  and  a  handsome  race,  the  general 
height  of  whom  is  about  six  feet,  and  well  proportion- 
ed. The  women  are  generally  delicate  and  beautiful. 
Their  canoes  are  well  constructed,  and  their  houses, 
and  internal  policy,  apparently  exceed  any  of  the 
islands  in  this  ocean.  They  are  surrounded  by  ft 
coral  reef;  but  boats  may  land  with  great  safety; 
their  latitude  is  14°  S  ,  longitude  169o  W. 

Having  now  finished  our  foraging  pursuits,  ire 
sailed  in  our  course  towards  China,  where  we  expect- 
ed to  arrive  in  time  to  join  the  homeward  bound 
company's  ships.  After  being  absent  from  these 
islands  about  a  week,  three  men  were  scraping  the 
ship's  side  preparatory  to  painting,  when  the  board 
on  which  tliey  were  at  work  broke  in  the  middle, 
and  let  the  centre  man  into  the  sea;  the  alarm 
bcltig  4mm«di«t«ly  gwp.n,  hoards*  chairs,  hencoop, 
&c.  were  thrown  to  his  assistance ;  he  having  caught 
a  board,  which  supported  him  till  he  stripped  him- 
self, when  he  committed  himself  to  the  sea,  and  as  the 
ship  was  thrown  in  the  wind,  he  swam  to  her  in  safety; 
but  from  the  vast  numbers  of  ferocious  sharks,  and 
the  distance  he  had  to  swim,  his  return  was  consi- 


(     256    ) 

dered  miraculous.  A  few  days  after  we  made  the 
LadroDe  Islands,  and  passed  between  Saypan  and 
Tiuian;  but  as  the  wind  was  fair  we  made  no  stay, 
though  the  temptation  was  very  great :  the  land  was 
covered  with  luxuriant  vegetation,  and  rising  in  gen- 
tle slopes  from  the  shore  to  the  middle  of  the  islands, 
intermixed  with  valleys  of  an  easy  descent,  which 
are  beautifully  diversified  with  the  mutual  encroach- 
ments of  the  woods  and  lawns ;  and  covered  with  an 
immense  number  of  cattle,  all  milk  white,  excepting 
their  ears,  which  are  either  brown  or  black ;  also  a 
vast  number  of  fowls,  which  are  said  to  be  easily 
caugU,  and  plenty  of  wild  hogs.  In  the  woods  are 
prodigious  quantities  of  cocoa-nuts,  guavas,  cabbage- 
trees,  limes,  sweet  and  sour  oranges,  and  bread-fruit. 
The  climate  is  healthful,  for  the  rains  are  not  con- 
tinual, but  fall  in  frequent  refreshing  showers.  There 
are  no  streams;  but  the  water  of  the  wells  and  springs 
is  extremely  good.  The  principal  inconvenience 
opposed  to  a  settlement  on  these  islands  arises  from 
the  vast  numbers  of  moschetoes  and  other  kinds  of 
flies,  besides  ticks,  which  fasten  upon  the  limbs  and 
bodies  of  men,  and  bury  their  heads  under  the  skin. 
The  road  is  inconvenient,  and,  in  some  seasons,  there 
is  little  security  for  a  ship  at  anchor.  J^ng.  i*46 
E.,  lat.  15°  N.  Shortly  after  passing  these  islands, 
the  weather  became  very  unsettled,  accompanied  with 
frequent  squalls  and  heavy  rain,  and  the  wind  vary- 
ing from  the  eastward,  southward,  and  southwest, 
with  lightning  and  dark  clouds;  the  weather  con- 
tinued ip  this  unsettled  state  till  oijir  arrival  at  the 


n  - 


(    257     ) 

Barhee  Islands.    At  about  5  o'clock  in  the  moraiog, 
haviog  great  ripplings  in  the  water,  and  the  weather 
very  tempestuous  and  dftrk,  with  heavy  rains,  one  of 
the  islands  was  discovered  just  in  time  to  prevent  our 
being  dashed  to  pieces :  the  providence  of  Goid  was 
peculiarly  manifest  in   this  deliverance,  a  heavy 
squall  of  wiud  and  rain  having  passed,  leaving  a 
gleam  of  light  to  discover  our  critical  situation ;  and 
it  being  the  chief  officer's  watch  on  deck,  he  suddenly 
called  out  for  Captain  Wilson,  who  instantly  went  up, 
and  ordered  the  ship  to  be  thrown  directly  in  the 
wind,  thereby  intending  to  edge  off.      This  might 
have  been  effected,  but  for  an  unhappy  circumstance 
that  now  occurred,  the  foretopsail  splitting  from  the 
bottom  to  the  top ;  in  consequence  of  which  we  were 
obliged  to  wear  the  ship  round,  in  order  to  work  from 
the  island  on  the  other  tack,  which  was  providentially 
effected;  though,  comparatively  speaking,  we  almost 
grazed  the  rocks  as  we  passed.      Daylight  beginning 
now  to  dawn,  the  passage  between  the  Barhee  Islands 
was  discovered,  through  which  we  got  comfortably,  and 
entered  into  the  China  Sea ;  the  latitude  of  this  group 
is  2P  5'  N.,  forming  a  chain  which  separates  the  South 
from  the  China  Sea.     The  following  morning  about 
eight  o'clock,  we  saw  land  upon  the  starboard  quarter, 
bearing  about  £.  N.  £.  distant  six  leagues,  being 
part  of   the  island  Formosa,  tlie  wind  continuing 
fair,  but  a  considerable  swell  from  the  northward,  and 
heavy  rains.    The  next  day  the  wind  died  away  to 
a  calm,  and  as  the  swell  of  the  sea  was  very  great, 
the  ship  rolled  prodigiously,  insomuch  that  the  gun 

Z2 


(    258    ) 

pofts  would  nearly  toach  the  water,  and  we  were  ap-^ 
prehensive  of  carrying  away  some  of  the  masts ;  but 
the  wind  again  springing  up,  soon  levelled  the  sea, 
and  enabled  us  to  pursue  our  course.  About  two 
days  after,  we  arrived  in  sight  of  the  coast  of  China, 
and  in  sailing  along  passed  through  several  fleets  of 
fishing  boats,  tlie  people  in  which  appeared  scarcely 
to  notice  us.  The  boats  appear  to  be  occupied  by 
their  respective  families,  as  men,  women  and  children 
were  uniformly  observed  on  board  of  the  numerous 
vessels.  We  had  no  sooner  passed  one  fleet  but  ano- 
ther was  discovered,  and  so  on  successively  till  we 
anchored  at  Whampoa.  The  fleets  appear  to  be  sta- 
tioned separate  from  each  other,  and  at  suitable  dis- 
tances, like  towns  and  villages.  Towards  sunset  we 
arrived  at  the  Macao  Islands,  where  we  received  on 
board  a  Chinese  pilot,  who  took  charge  of  the  ship  to 
pilot  her  to  Macao ;  but  in  consequence  of  the  wind 
dying  away,  and  the  tide  against  us,  came  to  an  an- 
chor between  two  mountainous  islands.  The  elements 
were  calm  and  serene,  but  the  western  sky  very  fiery, 
and  portending  a  storm.  The  next  morning  the  storm 
commenced,  according  to  the  captain's  expectations^ 
in  the  most  furious  and  tremendous  manner,  the  seas 
soon  began  to  rise.  Captain  W.  ordered  the  topgal- 
lant-masts to  be  struck,  and  the  yards  lowered  to  the 
ikck,  in  order  to  ease  the  ship.  At  about  1 1  A.  M.  let 
go  the  best  bower  anchor,  having  hitherto  rode  with 
the  small  bower  only.  At  P.  M.  the  gale  increased  to 
a  perfect  hurricane,  when  it  was  necessary  to  cast  the 
sheet  anchor,  fearing  that  the  bower  cables  would 


(    259    ) 

part    Three  anchors  were  now  ahead,  l  ad  noiirith- 
stand*  Qg  this  the  ship  dragged  coneiderably.    The  sea* 
and  wind  raged  with  the  greatest  violence,  and  fre-> 
quently  broke  over  the  bows  as  high  as  the  foretop- 
mast,  deluging  the  decks.     The  hurricane  continued 
with  unremitted    vehemence    during    about    forty- 
eight  hours,  presenting  a  most  interesting  and  awful 
scene.    Within  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  astern  was 
an  island  with  a  bold  and  rocky  ascent,  where  we 
expected  momently  to  be  cast;  but  here,  as  in  many 
other  memorable  deliverances,  gratitude  and  praise 
was  due  to  Him  '*  who  holds  the  winds  in  his  fists, 
and  the  waters  in  the  hollow  of  his  hands."    The 
Chinese  pilot  was  greatly  agitated,  and  would  fre- 
quently and  wishfully  look  towards  the  rocks  astern, 
and  the  whole  of  the  ship's  company  were  not  less 
disturbed  by  their  gloomy  situation.     The  gale  hav- 
ing subsided,  we  weighed  the  anchors  and  proceeded 
to  Macao,  where  the  women,  passengers  from  Fort 
Jackson,  were  obliged  to  remain  while  the  ship  was 
accomplishing  her  lading  at  Whampoa,   the   intro- 
duction of  European  women  into  the  Chinese  empire 
being  strictly  prohibited  by  the  government.    The 
women  being  sent  on  shore,  we  proceeded  to  Wham- 
poa, where  we  found  eleven  of  the  Bust-India  Com- 
pany's ships,  one  of  Denmark,  and  several  Ameri- 
cans.    The  country  about  Whampoa  and  Canton  is 
generally  level,  and  but  few  mountains  of  any  note. 
Navigable  rivers  are  very  numerous  and  consider- 
able, many  of  them  the  works  of  art  and  prodigious 
labour;  some  are  lined  with  hewn  stone,  and  of  suffi- 


(     260     ) 

cient  depth  to  carry  vessele  of  great  burden.  They 
are  of  inestimable  yalue  for  the  inland  navigation; 
they  are  also  asaisted  by  canals  in  auch  numbers  as 
are  not  to  be  met  with  in  any  other  country  of  the 
world.  The  various  fleets  of  boats  of  different 
sizes,  stationed  at  respective  distances,  appearinjs;  like 
30  man/  islands,  is  very  surprising.  Their  vessels 
are  made  in  a  very  neat  and  tasteful  manner,  and  are 
fitted  -with  all  the  conveniencies  of  life. 

It  has  been  supposed  that  the  empire  of  China  con- 
tains as  many  inhabitants  on  water  as  on  land.  The 
whole  population  of  China  is  computed  at  200  millions 
of  inhabitants:  astonishing  as  this  immense  number 
may  appear,  it  is  asserted  by  competent  judges  not  to 
be  an  exaggeration;  and  if  the  population  at  Canton, 
in  the  city  and  on  the  water,  lay  be  admitted  as  a 
specimen,  the  account  is  by  no  means  incorrect.  It 
appears  that  the  empire  extends  from  north  to  south 
2,000  miles,  and  1,500  from  east  to  west,  divided  into 
fifteen  provinces,  which  contain  4,402  walled  cities, 
divided  into  classes,*  the  civil  and  military ;  the  civil 
class  contains  2,045,  and  that  of  the  military  2,357. 
The  principal  defence  of  tlie  empire  is  the  great  wall 
which  separates  China  from  Tartary,  extending  more 
than  1,500  miles  in  length,  and  of  sucli  thickness  that 
will  admit  of  six  horsemen  riding  abreast  Upon  it.  It  is 
flanked  with  towers,  two  bow-shots  distant  from  each 
other;  and  it  is  said  that  a  third  of  the  able  bodied 
men  in  the  empire  were  employed  in  constructing  it. 
The  workmen  were  ordered,  under  pain  of  death,  to 
place  the  materials  so  closely,  that  not  the  least  en^ 


(    261     ) 

trance  might  be  afforded  for  any  instrument  of  iron; 
and  thus  the  work  was  constructed  with  such  solidity, 
that  it  is  still  almost  entire,  though  2,000  years  have 
elapsed  since  it  was  erected.  During  our  stay  at 
Canton,  we  had  an  opportunity  of  witnessing  their 
peculiar  mode  of  worship,  which  appeared  to  be  con- 
fined to  one  immense  range  of  buildings,  and  a  certain 
number  of  priests  are  appointed  by  the  province  to 
officiate  for  the  whole  of  the  people.  The  priests  are 
considered  every  way  qualified  to  officiate  in  reli- 
gious matters  without  the  people  concerning  them- 
selves therewith ;  therefore  they  seldom  interfere,  as 
they  place  great  confidence  in  the  invocations  and 
perseverance  of  the  priesthood.  The  buildings  for 
the  accommodation  of  the  gods  and  the  priests  are  nu- 
merous and  extensive,  the  whole  occupying  about  an 
acte  and  a  half  of  ground  enclosed.  Their  gods  are 
also  numerous,  and  by  the  various  emblems  which 
they  are  represented  holding  in  their  hands,  as  snakes, 
clubs,  stars,  &c.  together  with  their  countenances, 
they  certainly  represent  an  assemblage  of  the  most 
furious  gods  the  world  can  produce.  Both  the  gods 
and  their  devices  are  gilded,  and  placed  in  uniform 
order  with  their  backer  to  the  wall,  before  whom  are 
long  counters,  on  which  are  various  machinery,  bells, 
books,  &c.  for  the  use  of  the  priests,  who  appeared 
very  devout,  and  not  in  the  least  disconcerted  by  our 
visit.  This  city  is  enclosed  by  a  wall  about  twenty- 
four  feet  thick,  with  embrasures  on  the  top.  At  cer- 
tain places  are  stationed  guards  to  prevent  Europeans 
from  entering  the  city,  which  is  not  allowed  on  any 


(    262    ) 

OceaskH),  excepting  on  special  bueiness,  and  then  the 
penou  ojT  persons  roust  go  in  blindfolded.    Not  being 
fully  acquainted  with  this  requisition,  I  ivith  the 
purser  and  another  officer  of  one  of  the  companj^s 
ships  attempted  an  entrance  into  tlie  city,  and  having 
passed  unnoticed  by  the  guard,  who  was  an  old  man, 
and  in   conversation  with   another  person,  we  pro- 
ceeded to  the  gates;  but,  on  entering,  a  party  of  Chi- 
Dese  rushed  forth  with  staves  and  other  weapons,  no 
doubt  intending  to  secure  us  prisoners;  but  as  their 
shoes  are  the  most  awkward  and  clumsy,  having  thick 
wooden  soles  and  no  spring,  prevented  their  running 
fast,  we  easily  effected  our  escape ;  though  not  with- 
out considerable  perturbation  from  the  reflection  of 
our  temerity.    At  another  time  my  situation  was 
rendered  critical  owing  to  my  being  in  company  with 
some  officers  on  the  factory  parade,  who  were  engaged 
in  discharging  rockets  and  other  fireM'orks;  when, 
one  of  the  rockets  being  somewhat  damaged,  they 
were  obliged  to  let  it  off  in  a  horizontal  position, 
which  took  a  direction  to  a  Chinese  fmit-stall,  which 
it  struck  and  put  out  the  lights;  notwithstanding  its 
being  an  accidental  affiiir,  several  stout  men  sallied 
forth  with  clubis,  one  of  whom  struck  me  violently  on 
the  loins  by  which  I   suffered  severely  for  several 
days.     The  factory  of  Canton  is  a  magnificent  and 
spacious  building,  with  several  avenues :  before  it  are 
placed  flag-staffs  on  which  are  hoisted  the  banners  of 
the  different  nations  engaged  in  commerce  with  China. 
The  buildings  of  Canton  are  generally  low,  consisting 
of  one  story  and  a  ground  floor,  mostly  built  of  wood> 
2 


(     263     } 

and  covered  vriih  eaith  and  red  tiles  to  keep  them 
cool ;  but  those  of  the  most  respectable  merchants  and 
mandarins,  are  higher  and  adorned  with  various  or- 
naments.  The  streets  are  V^ng  and  narrow,  ard  mostly 
irregular;  they  are  paved  with  small  flint  stones,  and 
at  intervals  there  are  triumphal  arches  which  have  a 
pleasing  effect     China-street  is  the  most  spacious, 
being  about  thirty  feet  wide,  and  paved  with  flag- 
stones.   Many  of  the  principal  merchants  reside  iiy 
this  street.    In  Canton  there   are  no  carriages  or 
horses.     The  rich  people  are  carried  about  in  sedan 
chairs,  but  the  poor  walk  barefooted  and  bareheaded; 
and  their  goods  are  carried  by  porters.    At  the  ends 
of  the  streets  are  barriers,  which  are  shut  every  eve- 
ning, as  well  as  the  gates  of  the  city,  so  that  people 
are  obliged  to  be  at  home  early. 

The  timber  brought  from  New  Zealand  did  not 
produce  more  than  half  the  contemplated  profit; 
whether  from  the  quantity  the  country  produces,  or 
the  quality  of  the  New  Zealand  timber,  was  not  ex- 
actly known :  it  ought  however  to  have  brought  a 
good  price,  as  it  was  procured  at  a  dear  rate,  and 
through  much  hazard  and  anxiety. 


(     264    ) 


CHAPTER  X. 


Sail  from  China.— Hailed  by  a  British  frigate.*— Several  of  the 
men  pressed.-— Arrive  at  the  Straits  of  Maccassar.—  Anchor 
in  the  Java  Sea.— The  fleet  lose  several  of  their  anchors. 
Discover,  and  pass  through  the  Straits  of  Sunda.—- A  calm  of 
about  t^/u  weeks.— A  large  shark  caught.— A  breeze.— Part 
eompr.ny  from  the  fleet.— Arrive  at  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope- 
—A  vessel  upset  in  a  violent  squall.— Description  of  the  Cape 
of  Gt^  Hope.'— a  gale  of  ivind.->Departure  from  the  Cape, 
and  arrival  at  St.  Helena.— Description  of  the  island.^— The 
voyage  resumed,  and  arrival  in  England. 


XHE  fleet  of  company's  ships  having  completed 
their  lading,  and  received  their  despatches,  vie  sailed 
from  China  about  the  latter  end  of  January,  1802,  to- 
wards St.  Helena.  In  passing  Macao,  a  British  fri- 
gate was  at  anchor,  which  fired  several  guns  to  bring 
the  fleet  to,  but  our  commodore  making  signal  to  the 
fleet  to  proceed  on  its  course,  no  further  notice  was 
taken  of  the  frigate:  but  the  next  morning  at  aboit 
seven,  she  was  observed  in  chase,  and  at  noon  came 
up  with  the  fleet,  and  hailed  the  commodore,  who  or- 
dered the  fleet  to  lay  to;  when  the  frigate  was  sup* 
plied  with  as  many  men  as  she  stood  in  need  of;  some 
of  whom  were  pressed,  and  othen  entered  volunteers. 


(    285    ) 

Shortly  after  she  altered  her  course,  and  was  soon 
out  of  sight.  The  sailing  order  of  the  fleet  was  in 
two  lines ;  but  as  the  Royal  Admiral  was  an  extra 
ship,  she  was  stationed  on  the  larboard  of  the  lines, 
to  officiate  as  a  look-out  and  rcpeating-ship.  In  con- 
sequence of  two  or  three  bad  sailing  vessels,  particu- 
larly the  Admiral  Gardner ^  the  progress  of  the  -fleet 
was  much  retarded. 

Arriving  at  the  Straits  of  Maccassar,  one  of  the 
fleet  (the  Hindostan)  was  despatched  ahead  to  observe 
if  any  enemies'  ships  were  there;  but  the  coast  ba- 
ing  clear,  we  passed  through  the  5^iraits,  and  the  next 
night  anchored  in  the  Java  Sea,  in  about  twenty-five 
fathoms  water*  The  wind  arose  in  the  night  io  a 
smart  gale,  raising  a  heavy  sea,  by  which  means 
several  of  the  fleet  parted  their  cables  and  lost  their 
anchors.  At  daybreak  weighed  anchor*  and  pro- 
ceeded towards  the  Straits  of  Sunda;  at  noon  disco- 
vered tlie  straits,  and  at  4  P.  M.  th<^  fleet  had  com- 
fortably passed  through ;  but  the  next  day  the  wind 
died  away  to  a  complete  calm,  which  continued  for 
several  days  without  a  breath  of  air,  and  being  under 
the  burning  sun,  our  situatica  was  very  disagreeable  : 
and  sometimes  the  seas  ran  very  high,  occasioned  by 
distant  ^ales,  causing  the  ships  to  roll  very  heavy, 
and  they  were  frequently  thrown  by  the  heaving  of 
the  seas  so  near  to  each  other  tliat  it  was  necessary 
to  tow  them  apart  by  the  boats.  While  laying  iiere 
a  monstrous  shark  appeared  under  our  stem  at  suu- 
i-ise,  upon  which  I  baited  a  hook  with  a  piece  of 
pork  and  threw  it  overboard;  but  the  shark,  either 

Aa 


266     ) 


not  huDgiy,  or  impressed  with  daoger,  refused  tlie 
bait :  the  temptation  was  presented  the  whole  of  the 
day,  but  tlie  fisli  continued  swimming  round  the  ship, 
and  would  som^^times  smell  the  bait,  seemingly  in  a 
careless  manner;  however,  at  sunset  it  was  dilFer- 
cutly  disposed,  when  it  seized  the  prey,  and  was 
l^rought  on  board.  It  was  almost  nine  feet  in  lengtli, 
and  upon  opening  her,  seven  young  ones  were  found, 
about  eighteen  inches  in  length.  A  considerable  time 
after  the  liead  was  cut  off  it  looked  very  furious,  and 
occasionally  opened  its  mouth,  when  a  piece  of  pine 
wood  was  introduced,  and  in  a  moment  the  jaws  were 
closed,  burying  tlie  teeth  in  the  wo<yl  to  |he  gums. 

The  cheering  breezes  which  had  so  long  left  us 
Again  resumed  their  pleasing  influence;  and  the  fleet, 
which  had  for  many  days  been  in  a  state  of  confu- 
sion, was-thereby  brought  into  order.  We  now  pur- 
sued our  course  towards  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope, 
where  it  was  designed  that  the  Iloyal  Admiral  only 
should  touch,  she  having  an  investment  shipped  by 
the  East-India  Company  for  that  place.  JSTolhing  of 
importance  having  occurred  from  the  time  of  leaving 
ihe  Straits  of  Suuda,  till  our  leaving  the  fleet,  and 
arrival  at  the  Cape,  when  th(i  harbour-master,  doctor, 
and  their  attendants,  came  on  board,  to  examine  the 
iiealth  of  the  crew,  which  was  generally  good.  The 
requisitions  of  the  quarantine  laws  were  not  enforced. 
The  captain  took  lodgings  at  tlie  house  of  Mrs.  V.  S„ 
where  Admiral  Curtis  and  several  officers  of  the 
uHvy  lK>arded;  and  in  consequence  of  indispositioG, 
:the  captain  indulged  me  with  board  at  tlie  same  liouse. 


(     267     ) 

SO  that  I  inif^ht  have  an  opportunity  of  ranging  "tii»* 
fields  for  the  benefit  of   my   health.     There  were 
several  of  his  majesty's  ships  in  Tabic  Bay,  and  some 
merchantmen.     One  day  a  boat  was  sailing  from  tlie 
bay  to  another  part  of  the  coast,  when  a  violent  squall 
of  wind  overtook  her  and  upset  the  vessel,  in  conse- 
quence of  her  anchor  being  over  the  main  hatchway ; 
all  efforts  by  the  people  on  board  to  prevent  her  fill- 
ing were  fruitless;  but  as  her  cargo  was  principally 
casks  and  goods  of  a  buoyant  nature,  she  was  pre- 
vented  from  sinking.    The  situation  of  their  distressed 
circumstances  being  discovered  by  the  king's  shipB 
in  the  bay,  thoi4gh  at  a  great  distance,  and  the  wind 
blowing  very  hard,  with  a  heavy  sea  running,  the 
boats  from  some  of  the  ships  put  off  comparatively 
with  the  swiftness  of  lightning  to  their  assistance. 
Beyond  human  expectations,  they  succeeded  in  not 
only  saving  the  men  from  drowning,  but  also  recover- 
ed the  vessel ;  which  being  brought  alongside  one  of 
the  ships,  and  completely  cleared,  was  gratuitously 
given  to  the  owner.     A  description  of  Table  Bay, 
with  its  adjacent   land,  may  be  acceptable  to  some 
readers ;  I  shnll  therefore  copy  from  a  describer,  who 
was  ofie  of  the  few  saved  from  the  Sceptre  man  of 
war,  which  waf*  oast  away  in  that  bay,  on  the  5th  of 
November,    1 799,   which,  from   observation,  is   be- 
lieved to  be  very  correct:     "The  Cape  of  Good 
Hope  IS  tlie  southernmost  extremity  of  Africa.     It 
has  the  appearance  of  a  large  island  to  those  on  bonrd 
of  ships,  when  they  are  at  such  a  distance  as  pot  to 
be  able  to  discern  the  connexion  between  the  neck  of 


(     268     ) 

itg  mountains.  All  the  land  about  the  Cape  is  veiy 
My,  but  the  highest  and  most  remarkable  is  the  Ta- 
ble Land  a  mountain  about  3,400  feet  high,  quite  level 
on  the  top,  and  falling  down  perpendicularly  at  both 
ends,  till  it  joins  with  the  high  lands  near  it.  The 
east  part  of  the  Table  Land  is  connected  with  a  high 
peaked  hill,  called  the  Lion's  Head,  or  the  Devir? 
Mount,  and  also  Charles's  Mount ;  its  west  part  joins 
with  another  hill  equally  high,  which,  from  its  shape, 
has  the  name  of  the  Sugar  Loaf  ,•  and  to  the  north- 
west of  it  is  another  mountain,  much  inferior  in 
height,  and  called  the  Lion's  Rump.  On  the  top  of 
these  two  last-mentioned  mountains,  the  Dutch  hoist 
flags  when  any  ships  are  in  sight. 

"  When  the  Table  Land  begins  to  be  covered  with  a 
cloud,  (which  the  sailors  call  the  Devil's  Tablecloth,) 
it  indicates  a  strong  east,  or  east-southeast  wind; 
which,  soon  after  the  mountain  is  completely  clouded, 
cximes  on  and  blows  excessively  hard,  sometimes  two 
or  three  days  together.  With  this  wind  ships  fre* 
quently  part  their  cables,  or  bring  both  anchors 
ahead;  therefore,  it  is  usual,  as  soon  as  they  are 
moored  in  the  bay,  to  strike  their  yards  and  topmasts. 
The  prevailing  winds  at  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope 
are  the  southeast  and  northeast  winds ;  the  others  sel- 
dom lasting  longer  than  a  few  hours.  The  north  and 
northwest  winds  commonly  blow  in  hurricanes,  and 
bring  on  foul  weather.  The  southeast  winds  blow 
more  or  less  in  almost  all  the  months  of  the  year,  but 
chiefly  in  the  summer,  or  fair  weaUier  season,  winch 
generally  conlioues  from  October  to  April.    §om€- 


"*'*'<•«,, 


\ 


.;,»*.£, 


(   iJ6d    ) 

times  violent  northwest  winds  prevail  for  several  day* 
together,  and  by  fits  in  the  other  months :  the  sky  at 
tliis  time  is  constantly  clouded,  and  they  generally 
end  hi  rain.  There  is  at  one  end  of  this  bay  an 
island  called  Penguin  Island.  To  this,  which  is  two 
miles  long,  and  about  one  broad,  the  Dutch  at  the  Cape 
banish  their  criminals,  for  a  certain  number  of  years, 
who  are  not  thought  worthy  of  death,  and  employ 
them  as  slaves  in  digging  limestone ;  which,  though 
scarce  upon  the  continent,  is  in  plenty  here.  No  one  is 
permitted  to  land  upon  that  island,  since  a  Danish 
ship  (which  by  sickness  had  lost  great  part  of  her 
crew,  and  had  been  refused  assistance  at  the  Cape)  went 
to  this  island,  and,  6cnding[her  boat  on  shore,  secured 
the  guard,  and  took  on  board  as  many  of  the  crimi- 
nals as  they  thought  proper  to  navigate  her  home. 

'.'  The  Cape  town  is  neat  and  well  built.  The 
streets  are  broad  and  all  parallel  to  each  other,  but 
not  paved,  and  a  great  number  of  them  are  planted 
with  oaks.  There  is  one  large  square  with  trees 
planted  round,  and  a  canal  of  water  from  springs  run- 
ning  down.  The  houses  are  very  good  with  two 
stories  high  at  most,  and  have  a  neat  appearance  on 
the  outside;  the  greatest  part  of  them  is  stuccoed 
and  whitewashed,  and  some  painted  green,  which 
altogether  make  a  very  pretty  town ;  and,  some  few 
ci;  €umstances  excepted,  equal  in  neatness  and  con- 
venience to  any  of  our  seaports  in  England. 

^*  The  inhabitants  are  of  opinion  that  the  hio^h 
winds  are  a  great  blessing :  fcv,  say  they,  the  cli* 
mate  is  hot,  and  wc  stand  so  very  low,  that  a  coinmoa 

A  a2 


(     270     ) 

))reeze  could  not  reach  us,  and  the  place  would  be 
very  unhealthy.  As  it  is,  they  enjoy  a  competent 
share  of  health,  having  but  few  sickly  people  amongst 
them ;  and  yet,  what  is  very  extraordinary,  their  lives 
in  general  do  not  exceed  fifty  years,  and  vast  numbers 
die  between  forty  and  fifty ;  so  that  a  very  old  man 
or  woman  there  is  really  a  wonder.  About  twenty 
miles  from  Cape  town  is  a  remarkably  large  stone, 
called  by  the  inhabitants  the  Tower  of  Babylon,  or 
the  Pearl  Diamond.  It  stands  on  the  top  of  some 
low  hills,  and  is  of  an  oblou>^  shape,  rounded  on  the 
top.  The  circumference  of  this  stone  is  about  hsJf 
a  mile,  and  its  height  equal  to  the  dome  of  St.  Paur^ 
church  in  London.  Except  some  fissures,  it  is  one 
uninterrupted  mass  of  stone,  called,  by  the  mineralo- 
gists, *■  Saxum  Conglutinatuni.* " 

While  the  Royal  Admiral  lay  at  the  Cape,  she  was 

much  exposed  to  a  violent  gale  from  the  northwest, 

in  consequence  of  which  the  topmasts  and  yards  were 

lowered,  and  the^cables  veered  away  as  much  as  pos- 

iiible ;  this  wind  lasted  about  twenty-four  hours,  but 

the  ship  rode  very  well.     After  remaining  here  two 

weeks,  we  received  on  board  about  ten  passengers, 

and  proceeded  towards  St.  Helena,  where  we  in  a 

few  days  after  arrived,  without  any  thing  particular 

having  occurred ;  found  one  ship  in  port  which  had 

just  arrived  from  Bengal,  and  was  bound  to  London. 

This  island,  when  viewed  from  the  sea,  bears  a  dbmal 

aspect,  being  nearly  surrounded  with  high  bluff  rocks, 

and  the  laud  about  the  coast  appears  unfruitful.    The 

(\i\vn  is  situated  between  two  high  mouDtaios,  and  la 


(     271     ) 

by  no  means  a  desirable  residence.    The  acrcent  Uf 
the  top  of  the  mountains  is  effected  by  diagonal  roads 
cut  in  their  sides.     There  are  various  telegraphs  sta- 
tioned so  as  to  convey  information  from  every  part 
of  tlie  island,  when  shipping  appear  on  the  coast     It 
is  in  general  rocky  and  mountainous,  but  in  the  in- 
terior far  from  being  barren,  the  valleys  and  moun- 
tains being  pleasant  and  fertile.    Mr.  Foster  informs 
us,  that  "  having  travelled  about  half  a  mile  from  the 
town  into  the  country,  he  was  transported  with  one  of 
the  finest  prospects  he  ever  beheld,  consisting  of 
several  little  hills,  covered  with  rich  verdure,  and  in- 
terspersed with  fertile  valleys,  which  contained  gar- 
dens, orchards,  and  various  plantations;  that  many  pas- 
tures, surrounded  by  enclosures  of  stone,  were  filled 
with  a  small  but  a  fine  brood  of  cattle,  and  with  En- 
glish sheep ;  that  every  valley  was  watered  by  a  lit- 
tle rivulet;  and  the  mountains  in  the  centre  of  the 
island  were  hung   with  woods.      The   soil   which 
covered  the  rocks  and  mountains,  was  in  general  a 
rich  mould,  from  six  to    ten  inches  deep,  clothed 
with  a  variety  of  plants  and  shrubs,  among  which  was 
a  tree,  whicli  the  inhabitants  call  a  cabbage-tree^ 
though  only  used  for  fuel,  gum-trees,  and  redwood. 
In  the  governor's  garden,  about  three  miles  from  town, 
he  saw  several  plants  from  Europe,  Africa  and  Ame- 
nca,  and  particularly  a  profusion  of  roses  and  lilies, 
interspersed  with  myrtle  and  laurel.    Several  wiuks 
of  peach-trees  were  loaded  with  fruit,  which  had  a 
peculiarly  rich  flavour,  difTerent  from  that  of   our 
peaches;  but  that  other  European  fruit-trees  throve 


(    272    ) 

Dttt  indiffeffentty,  and  never  bore  fniit.  Vines  had 
been  planted  several  times,  but  had  not  succeeded,  on 
account  of  the  climate;  cabbages  and  other  greens 
thrive  extremely  well,  but  are  destroyed  by  cater- 
pillars ;  barley  and  other  kinds  of  com  are  generally 
devoured  by  rats,  which  are  immensely  numerous; 
and  for  that  reason,  the  ground  was  laid  out  chiefly 
In  pastures,  the  verdure  of  which  was  surprising! 
The  island  could  support  3,000  head  of  their  small 
cattle ;  the  beef  is  juicy,  delicious  and  very  fat ;  and 
the  island,  besides  cattle,  abounds  with  goats,  rabbits, 
a  small  breed  of  horses,  ring  pheasants,  red-legged 
partridges,  rice  birds,  pigeons,  &c»  of  some  of  which 
the  breed  is  indigenous,  but  others  have  been  brought 
from  Africa,  Europe,  or  the  East  Indies.  The  num- 
ber of  inhabitants  on  the  island  does  not  exceed 
2,000,  including  near  500  soldiers,  and  600  slaves, 
who  are  supplied  with  all  sorts  of  manufactures  and 
other  necessaries  by  the  company's  ships  in  return 
for  refreshments ;  and  that  many  of  the  slaves  were 
employed  in  catching;  fish,  which  are  very  plentiful/' 
It  lies  between  the  continents  of  Africa  and  South 
America,  about  1,200  miles  W.  of  the  former,  and 
1,800  E.  of  the  latter.  Long.  5<»  49^  W.,  lat.  15<^ 
55'  S. 

We  resumed  our  voyage  from  hence  about  the 
month  of  April,  and  arrived  safe  in  England  in  July, 
1802,  without  experiencing  any  thing  remarkable  in 
the  passage  from  St.  i.  ^ena.  The  first  port  we 
made  was  the  Downs,  wIil  re  2  received  orders  to 
proceed  by  land  from  Dover  to  London,  with  the 
company's  despatches. 


mmm 


(    273    ) 


CHAPTER  Xli 


Vhe  writer  is  uiuted  in  marriage.— Enters  into  business-^-Di^ 
couraging  circumstances.^^  Remove  to  London. — A  remark- 
able providence. — ^Embark  for  America,  and  arrive  at  New- 
York. — Engagement  with  the  "  Free  School  Society  of  New- 
York." 


Having  arrived  in  London  early  the  next  moro- 
ing,  my  first  object  was  to  inquire  for  my  old  friends, 
whom  I  shortly  after  found,  though  not  without  con- 
siderable difficulty,  as  their  circumstances  and  situa- 
tions had  undergone  many  changes. 

Upon  the  conclusion  of  my  engagement  with  Cap- 
tain W.  my  mind  was  employed  upon  another  and 
much  more  important  to  me,  viz.  the  consummation 
of  the  marriage  treaty  with  D.  M.,  which  being  con- 
solidated, our  minds  were  engaged  respecting  our  fu- 
ture residence,  when  the  town  of  Leicester,  distant 
about  100  miles  from  London,  presented  a  prospect  of 
advantageously  commencing  business.  In  furnishing 
the  store  we  were  greatly  aided  by  Captain  W.  who 
advanced  considerable  money,  and  through  him  we 
obtained  credit  with  several  of  the  London  mep- 
chants :  but,  after  a  trial  of  several  months,  it  did  noi 


(     274    ) 

meet  our  expectations :  we,  tlicrefore,  closed  that  con- 
cern, and  shortly  after  removed  to  London,  where 
we  hoped  to  meet  with  employment.  On  visiting  our 
good  friend  Captain  W.  we  inquired  of  him  respect- 
ing the  probability  of  obtaining  employment,  when, 
to  our  great  sorrow,  we  were  informed,  that,  to  every 
situation  which  offered,  there  were  more  than  twenty 
candidates  in  readiness,  and  that  the  hope  of  success, 
on  my  part,  was  very  gloomy,  in  consequence  of  the 
universal  depression  of  trade. 

Various  and  unremitted  exertions  were  made  to 
procure  employment,  but  all  were  fruitless,  and  as  the 
contents  of  our  strong  box  was  reduced  to  only  a 
few  shillings,  our  siluatioo  was  rendered  extremely 
dejecting ! 

On  my  arrival  from  HonidoB,  in  Essex,  (where  I 
bad  been  in  purauit  of  tlie  office  of  teacher  to  a 
school  in  that  place,)  we  were  unexpectedly  visited 
by  a  Mr.  Coo^,  (of  the  house  of  Wallis,  Cook  and 
Hammond,  merchants  in  London,)  who  interrogated 
me  respecting  my  qualification  for  business*  &c.  and 
whether  we  should  have  any  objection  to  go  to  Ame- 
rica. This  interview  terminated  in  a  request  that  I 
should  wait  on  the  other  gentlemen  of  the  firm  the 
following  morning ;  to  which  attendance  was  accord- 
ingly given.  The  result  of  this  visit  was  an  engage- 
ment with  these  gentlemen,  at  one  hundred  pounds 
sterling  per  annum ;  and  to  proceed  direct  for  New* 
York,  to  their  c»ent  Mr.  B.  P.,  then  resident  in 
Pearl-street  This  proposition  was  most  cheerfully 
Acceded  to  on  my  part,  as  scarcely  any  thing  could 


(     27i    ) 


have  bceu  more  gratif^'ing  to  my  ^viBhcs,  liaving  Lmt 
a  lew  days  previous  endeavoured  to  obtain  a  passage 
in  a  vessel  that  was  bound  to  Philadelphia,  to  serve 
in  any  capacity  as  a  compensation  for  the  passage; 
but  the  captain  insisted  that  if  I  went  with  lum,  the 
price  of  the  passage  should  be  immediately  paid  in 
cash;  this  requisition  being  altogether  incompatible 
with  my  purse,  I  was  obliged  to  relinquish  the  idea 
t)f  arriving  in  America  by  this  conveyance. 

In  two  days  after  my  engagement  with  Messrs.  W., 
.C.  ^  H.,  tlie  ship  South  Carolina,  commanded  by 
llobert  M.  Steel,  was  under  sailing  orders  for  New^ 
York,  in  which  myself  and  family  embarked,  on  the 
1 5th  of  June,  1 804,  and  after  a  prosperous  voyage 
of  32  days,  without  experiencing  any  thing  very  re- 
markable, we  arrived  in  New- York  on  the  9th  of 
August.  We  were  very  kindly  welcomed  by  Mr. 
B.  P.,  who  gratuitously  accommodated  ua  at  bis 
house,  with  his  furniture.  Sic,  about  two  months ;  his 
family  then  residing  at  Greenwich.  For  several  days 
after  our  arrival,  instead  of  being  placed  immediately 
at  the  desk,  I  was  indulged  with  the  privilege  of  see- 
ing the  different  parts  of  the  city,  and  adjacent  coun- 
try ;  which  afforded  no  small  gratification,  especially 
after  such  a  tedious  voyage. 

After  being  engaged  with  my  new  employer  about 
three  months,  I  was  recognised  by  my  old  friend 
Henry  Miller,  who  had  resided  nwiny  years  in  Pearl- 
street,  and  had  accumulated  considerable  wealth  id 
the  tnink  iii.u;ufactor)\  At  about  this  time  many 
persons  \>^'re  :iupposed  to  amass  abundant  riches  in 


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(     276    ) 

the  ciry-good  busiuess,  and  as  the  stand  wkicli  my 
friend  possessed,  being  considered  preferable  to  many, 
induced  him  to  relinquish  his  former  occupation,  and 
to  commence  in  the  new,  Avliich  appeared  to  him  to 
o£fer  greater  advantages;  but  as  he  was  ignorant  of 
the  various  branches  of  that  business,  I  was  strongly 
solicited  by  him  to  enter  into  copartnership.  In 
consequence  of  my  engagement  with  Mr.  P.,  an 
affirmative  could  not  consistently  be  given,  together 
vith  my  want  of  property,  would  be  a  barrier  against 
such  a  union :  these  objections,  however,  were  soon 
removed,  by  the  proposition  being  submitted  to  Mr. 
P.  who  acceded  to  my  leaving  his  employ,  supposing 
that  the  copartnership  would  be  much  more  to  my 
interest;  and,  as  it  respects  the  other  objection,  no 
property  on  my  part  was  required.  We  accord- 
ingly entered  upon  the  concern,  which  was  continued 
about  nine  months,  when  finding  it  not  to  answer  our 
expectaJons,  the  copartnership,  by  mutual  consent, 
was  dissolved. 

Upon  the  conclusion  of  this  engagement,  I  resolved 
to  open  a  school,  and  as  a  favourable  situation  offered 
at  222  Greenwich-street,  I  accordingly  commenced : 
and  as  there  were  several  of  my  fiiends  residing  in 
hat  neighbourhood,  their  children  were  sent,  and 
the  number  in  a  few  days  increased  to  about  fifty 
or  sixty  scholars;  these  encouragements  at  the  be- 
ginning afforded  a  comfortable  prospect  of  success. 
At  this  period,  a  book  on  education,  published  by  the 
celebrated  Joseph  Lancaster^  was  presented  for  my 
perusal;   and  the  numerous  and  great  advantages 


(    277     ) 


n<^ 


therein  specified,  were  recommended  to  be  adopted  i& 
my  school.  After  a  careful  examination  of  his  plan, 
the  arrangement  of  the  respective  classes,  and  the 
simplicity  of  the  management,  by  which  a  much 
greater  number  of  scholars  could  foe  taught,  and  that 
their  advantages  of  more  rapid  improvement  were 
self-evident,  no  time  on  my  part  was  required  as  to 
the  propriety  of  its  immediate  adoption.  It  was  ac- 
cordingly introduced,  and  crowned  with  the  happiest 
effects ;  though,  in  a  few  solitary  instances,  objections 
were  made  to  the  use  of  monitors;  but  after  an  ex- 
planation of  their  business,  and  the  manifest  improve* 
ment  of  the  scholars  generally,  these  difficulties  soon 
subsided. 

After  a  continuance  in  this  school  about  six  months, 
I  obtained  ample  proof  of  Mr.  Lancaster's  system 
being  the  most  eligible,  both  to  the  teacher  and  scho- 
lars; and  that  its  introduction  into  schools  of  any 
description  will  be  attended  with  superior  advan- 
tages. 

At  this  period  it  was  communicated  to  me  that  a 
number  of  the  most  respectable  citizens  of  New- 
Tork,  conceiving  that  the  establishment  of  free  schools 
for  the  education  of  such  poor  children  as  do  not 
belong  to,  or  are  not  provided  for  by,  the  respective 
religious  denominations,  might  be  productive  of  much 
utility,  convened  for  the  purpose  of  deliberating  on 
the  subject  A  resolution  was  passed  at  this  meet* 
ing,  that  a  memorial  should  be  prepared,  soliciting  of 
the  legislature  an  act  of  incorporation,  under  the  title 
of  «  The  Society  for  establishing  a  Free  School  in 

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(,    278     )  ,. 

tlie  City  %ii  New- York."  The  importance  of  the 
subject  contained  in  the  memorial  was  perfectly  ap- 
parent to  the  legislature,  and  an  act  of  incorporation 
wsas,  therefore,  without  any  opposition,  immediately 
granted.  Upon  which,  thirteen  tnistees,  composed 
chiefly  of  persons  with  wliom  the  plan  of  the  institu- 
tion originated,  were  elected  in  the  spring  of  1805, 
agreeably  to  the  provision  in  the  charter.  The 
trustees,  after  many  adverse  circumstances,  resolved 
to  commence  their  arduous  undertaliing ;  and  having 
been  made  acquainted  with  my  humble  attempt  to 
introduce  the  Lancasterian  system  into  New-York, 
and  that  it  was  attended  with  the  expected  advantages, 
among  the  many  teachers  who  offered  themselves,  the 
preference  was  given  to  me  to  superintend  their  school ; 
which  was  opened  in  May,  1806,  in  a  small  apartment 
in  Bancker-street.  Its  appearance  was  in  every  re- 
spect as  humble  as  were  the  unhappy  objects  whose 
improvement  in  it  was  contemplated. 

For  further  information  respecting  the  mode  of  in- 
struction invented  by  Joseph   Lancaster,  together 
with  the  rise  and  progress  of  the  New- York  Free, 
School,  the  reader  is  referred  to  a  book  on  that  sub- 
ject, published 'by  Collins  &  Co.,  Peart-street. 


i>f> 


m 


A^  1 


<»• 


APPENDIX. 


-.  s>sjd^>y  i»  i  I  T«  J  •  *., 


JL  O  gratify  curiosity  and  acquire  wealth  have  ex- 
cited in?n  to  engage  la  the  most  dangerous  enterprises, 
and  to  encounter  the  greatest  difficulties;  hence,  dis- 
tant regions  have  been  explored,  sources  of  commerce 
opened,  and  much  gain  procured  by  the  adventurers ; 
but  religion  has  seldom  occupied  the  attention  of  the 
navigator,  and,  though  professing  christians  have 
visited  most  regions  of  the  globe,  many  of  its  inhabit* 
.  ants  have  reason  to  think  unfavourably  of  Chris- 
tianity. 

Influenced  by  principles  purely  disinterested,  and 
to  recommend  religious  instruction  to  the  heathen,  by 
the  amiable  conduct  of  suitable  teachers,  the  Mis- 
sionary Society  was  formed,  and  in  a  short  time 
enabled,  by  very  liberal  subscriptions,  to  purchase 
and  equip  a  very  handsome  vessel,  the  Duff,  for  the 
convevance  of  Missionaries. 

In  consequence  of  a  memoir  addressed  to  the 
society,  by  a  very  zealous  friend  and  generous  con- 
tributor, it  was  resolved.  That  the  first  Missionary 
A'oyage  should  be  made  to  the  islands  of  the  South 


"^W 


m^m 


(     280    ) 

Sea;  and  the  ship  was  put  under  the  command  of 
Captain  James  Wilson,  a  gentleman  whose  piet^, 
fortitude  and  perseverance  entitle  him  to  universal 
esteem;  who,  after  experiencing  a  series  of  extreme 
distresses  in  the  East  Indies,  and  having  acquired  a 
competent  fortune,  volunteered  his  services,  left  a 
most  delightful  spot  which  he  had  purchased  for  his 
retirement,  and  gratuitously  took  the  command  of  the 
ship  to  further  the  benevolent  designs  of  the  society. 
The  life  of  this  exemplary  character  should  not 
be  passed  over  without  some  notice;  it  contains  so 
much  incident  as  to  be  highly  interesting,  which  a 
brief  mention  of  some  particulars  will  be  sufficient 
r  to  prove.  Brought  up  to  the  sea  from  his  earliest 
years,  when  very  young  he  obtained  a  birth  as  mate 
of  an  East-Indiaman,  and,  upon  his  arrival  at  Ben- 
gal, he  determined  to  abide  in  that  country ;  and,  ac- 
cordingly, spent  the  chief  part  of  his  life  in  the  East 
Indies ;  prior  to  which  he  had  been  in  America,  and 
served  at  the  battles  of  Bunker's  Hill,  and  of  Long 
Island. 

The  limits  of  this  appendix  prevent  the  inser- 
tion of  the  many  wonderful  occurrences  in  Captain 
VVilson's  life,  during  his  continuance  in  the  east: 
some  of  the  most  particular  can  only  be  noticed. 

During  the  war  with  Hyder  Ally,  he  was  employ- 
ed to  carry  stores  for  the  British  army,  and  readily 
itndertook  a  voyage  from  Madras  to  Cuddalore,  to 
supply  the  army  under  the  command  of  Sir  Eyre 
Coote,  which  was  then  in  extreme  distress,  their  pro- 
visions being  nearly  exhausted ;  and,  as  they  were  sur- 


(     281     ) 


•tounded  by  Hyder  Ally's  army,  no  supplies  could 
reach  them  by  land ;  and  though  several  ships  were 
at  Madras,  laden  with  provisions  for  their  relief,  they 
were  afraid  to  attempt  the  passage,  as  the  French 
'fleet  lay  at  Pondicherry,  which  was  directly  in  the 
course  they  must  take.  But  Captain  Wilson  being 
applied  to  by  the  governor  of  Madras,  he  undertook 
the  service  with  five  ships  udder  his  command,  and 
passed  Fondiciierry  in  the  night,  so  near  as  to  see 
the  French  flag  flying  from  the  mast-head,  and  esca- 
ped being  captured  by  the  following  circumstance : 

SufTreiu,  the  French  admiral,  had  sent  his  water- 
casks  on  shore  to  be  filled,  and  they  lay  or  the  beach. 
Sir  Eyre  Coote  had  detached  a  corps  of  grenadiers 
and  light  infantry,  who  entered  Pondicherry,  and  de- 
stroyed the  casks ;  this  induced  SufTreiu  to  run  down 
to  Point  de  Gall,  to  repair  the  loss,  just  at  the  mo- 
ment when  Captain  Wilson  was  in  the  ofiiDg.      As 
SufTrein's  ships  sailed  so  much  better  than  his,  they 
were  off  Cuddalore  in  the  morning,  and  Captain  Wil- 
son arrived  in  the  afternoon,  thus  escaping  and  bring- 
ing in  the  whole  of  the  cargoes  committed  to  his 
cai-e,  and  so  much  wanted  by  the  army.     They  had 
then  been  reduced  to  their  last  forty-five  bags  of  paddy, 
and  not  a  grain  of  rice  to  be  procured.    This  sup- 
ply rescued  them  from  the  impending  famine,  or  the 
necessity  of  cutting  their  way  through  the  enemy; 
and  was  the  means  of  God's  good  providence  for  the 
preservation  of  the  army  and  the  Caniatic. 

Returning  in  cafety  to  Bengal,  he  was  emplo^^ed  in 
carrying  supplies,  and  in  one  of  these  voyages,  when 

B  b  2 


^ , 


(     ?82     ) 

going  with  a  very  valuable  carga  of  military  8torei» 
for  Sir  Edward  Hughes,  ^rhose  ammunition  had  been 
nearly  exhausted  in  the  well  known  conflict  with  Suf^ 
freio,  he  was  taken  and  carried  into  Caddalore,  which 
was  then  in  the  possession  of  the  French,  where  he 
found  the  crew  of  the  Hannibal  in  the  same  Capti- 
vity. He  was  permitted  to  be  at  large  on  hi&  parole, 
and  hoped  shortly  to  be  exchanged.  "* 

Hyder  Ally  having  bribed  Suffrein  to  surrender 
up  to  him  all  his  prisoners  at  Cuddaiore,  Captain 
Wilson,  as  soon  as  he  received  the  intelligence  from 
the  commander  of  the  fort,  determined  that  very  night 
to  attempt  bis  escape  from  a  confinement  which  was^ 
to  him  worse  than  death.  This  resolution  he  put  in 
practice  with  his  servant,  a  Bengalese  boy. 

About  seven  o'clock  tliey  ascended  the  rampart, 
the  captain  leaped  down,  and  pitched  on  his  feetf 
but  the  shock  of  so  great  a  descent,  about  forty  feet, 
occasioned  his  chin  to  strike  against  his  knees,  and 
tumbled  him  headlong  into  tlie  river.  Recovering 
himself,  and  returning  to  the  foot  of  the  wall,  where 
there  was  a  dry  bank,  he  bid  the  boy  drop  down, 
And  caught  him  safe  in  his  arms  ? 

All  that  part  of  the  Tanjore  country  is  low,  and 
intersected  with  a  number  of  rivers  branching  off 
from  the  great  Coleroon.  He  inquired  of  the  boy 
if  he  could  swim,  and  found  he  could  not;  he  there- 
fore took  him  on  his  back  and  carried  him  safe  over, 
and  then  made  for  Porto  Nuovj,  about  four  leagues 
and  a  half  from  Cuddaiore.  They  had  passed  three 
•arms  of  the  river,  and  advanced  at  as  great  a  pac^. 


(    283    ) 

B8  they  possibly  could  to  make  use  of  the  night,  sinc^ 
their  hope  of  safety  depended  chiefly  on  the  distance 
they  could  reach  before  the  morning  light.  Not  far 
from  Porto  Nuovo,  a  Seapoy  challenged,  on  vhich 
they  shrunk  back  and  concealed  themselres,  turning 
down  to  the  river  side,  which  in  that  place  was  very 
wide,  and  being  near  the  sea,  the  tide  ran  in  with 
great  rapidity.  He  took  the  boy  on  his  back  as  be- 
fore, and  bid  him  be  sure  only  to  hold  by  his  hands, 
and  cast  his  legs  behind  him ;  but  when  they  came 
among  the  breakers,  the  boy  was  frightened,  and  clung 
around  the  captain  with  his  legs  so  fast,  as  almost  to 
sink  him,  which  forced  him  to  return  to  the  shore, 
and  recommending  the  boy  to  a  friend,  plunged  agaia 
into  the  stream,  and  pushed  for  the  opposite  shore; 
but  he  found  the  tide  running  upwards  so  strong,  that 
in  spite  of  all  his  efforts  he  was  carried  along  with 
the  current,  and  constrained,  at  considerable  distance, 
to  return  to  the  same  side  of  the  river.  At  the  place 
where  he  landed,  he  discovered  by  the  moonlight, 
on  the  beach,  a  canoe,  which  he  seized,  and  was 
drawing  down  to  the  river,  when  two  blacks  rushed 
upon  him,  and  demanded  whither  he  was  going  with 
the  boat.  At  his  request  they  rowed  him  to  the  op- 
posite shore,  where  he  found  he  had  as  great  a  dis- 
tance to  pass  to  the  Coleroon  as  he  had  already  tra- 
velled; and  continuing  his  course  with  full  speed, 
before  break  of  day  reached  this  largest  arm  of  the 
river,  of  which  those  which  he  had  crossed  were 
branches.  Exhausted  with  the  fatigue  he  had  un- 
dergone, and  dismayed  with  the  width  of  this  mighty 


mmm 


(    284     ) 

stream,  he  stood  for  a  momeot  hesitatiog  od  the 
briok;  cousidering  his  danger,  he  stretched  out  his 
arms  to  the  flood,  and  pressed  for  the  shore.  With 
the  light  of  the  morning  he  had  reached  the  land,  and 
flattered  himself  that  all  his  dangers  were  past,  and 
his  liberty  secured  ;  he  ascended  a  sand  bank  to  look 
about  him,  and  to  his  terror  and  surprise  perceived  a 
-party  of  Hyder's  horse  scouring  the  coast;  being 
discovered  by  them,  they  gallopped  up  to  him ;  in  a 
moment  seized,  stripped  him  naked,  and,  tying  his 
hands  behind  his  back,  drove  him  before  them  to  the 
head-quarters,  several  miles  distant,  under  a  burning 
sun,  and  covered  with  blisters.  He  supposes  lie 
must  have  gone  that  night  and  day  more  than  forty 
miles,  besides  all  the  rivers  he  had  crossed. 

The  officer  at  the  bead-quarters  was  a  Mahometan, 
who  ha  interrogated  him.  Captain  Wilson  gave 
him  an  ingenuous  account  of  his  escape  from  Cudda- 
lore,  with  tlie  circumstances  attending  his  flight.  The 
moorman  looked  angrily  at  him,  and  said  jute  hat., 
"  that  is  a  lie,"  as  no  man  ever  yet  passed  the  Cole- 
roon  by  swimming,  for  if  he  had  but  dipped  the  tip 
of  his  finger  in  it,  the  alligators  would  have  seized 
him;  but  the  captain  giving  him  such  evidence  of 
the  fact  that  he  could  no  longer  doubt  the  relation, 
he  lifted  up  his  hands  and  cried  out,  Gouda  ka  Ador 
mil  «  This  is  God's  man.'* 

He  was  immediately  marched  back  to  Cuddalore, 
and  thrust  into  a  dungeon  with  the  meanest  captives. 
Chained  to  a  common  soldier,  they  brought  him  out 
of  bis  prison  almost  famished,  and  nearly  naked,  to 


{    285     )  * 

march  him  to  Seringapatam,  about  five  hundred  miles. 
The  only  relief  the  officers  could  afford  him  was  a  few 
clothes,  which  his  inhuman  conductors  soon  deprived 
him  of,  goading  him  on  before  them  all  the  day,  and 
thrusting  him  at  night  into  a  damp  unwholesome  pri- 
son, crowded  with  miserable  objects.  In  addition  to 
his  other  sulTerings,  he  was  seized  with  the  flux ;  and, 
when  he  arrived  at  Seringapatam,  naked,  diseased, 
and  half  starved,  he  was  thrust  into  a  noisome  prison, 
destitute  of  food  and  medicine,  loaded  with  irons 
weighing  thirty-two  pounds,  with  one  hundred  and 
fifty-three  fellow  sufferers,  chiefly  Hignlanders  of  Co- 
lonel Macleod's  regiment 

Here  he  remained  two  and  twenty  months.  The 
prison  was  a  square,  around  the  walls  of  which  was 
a  kind  of  barrack  for  the  guard ;  in  the  middle  was 
a  covered  place  open  on  all  sides,  exposed  to  the 
wind  and  rain.  There,  without  any  bed  but  the 
earth,  or  covering  but  the  rags  wrapped  around  him, 
he  was  chained  to  another  prisoner,  and  often  so  cold 
that  they  have  dug  a  hole  in  the  earth  and  buried 
themselves  in  it,  as  some  defence  from  the  chilling 
blasts  of  the  night.  Their  whole  allowance  was  only 
a  pound  of  rice  a  day  per  man,  and  one  rupee  for 
forty  days,  or  one  pice  a  day,  less  than  a  penny,  to 
provide  salt  and  firing  to  cook  the  rice.  A  state  of 
raging  hunger  was  never  appeased  by  an  allowance 
scarcely  ablft  to  maintain  life;  and  the  rice  so  full  of 
stones  that  he  could  not  chew,  but  was  obliged  to 
swallow  it;  and  he  was  often  afraid  to  trust  his  own 
fiogers  in  his  mouth  lest  he  should  be  tempted  to  bite 


mmm 


(     286     ) 

th6ni.  Such  was  his  miserable  sitiiatioa  that  oftea 
the  dead  corpse  was  unchained  from  his  arm  in  the 
morning,  that  another  living  sufTei-er  might  take  his 
j)lace,  and  fall  by  the  same  diseases  which  daily 
thinned  their  numbers.  Though  he  entered  this 
wretched  abode  of  miseiy  almost  exhausted  by  fatigue 
and  disease,  yet  he  had  recovered  from  the  flux,  and 
for  a  year  maintained  a  state  of  health  beyond  his  fel- 
lows; but  worn  down  with  misery,  cold,  hunger  and 
nakedness,  he  was  attacked  with  the  usual  symptoms 
which  had  carried  off  so  many  others,  His  body 
-enormously  distended,  his  tliighs  as  big  as  his  waist 
before,  and  his  face  sadly  bloated,  death  seemed  to 
have  seized  him  for  his  prey.   . 

Heduced  now  to  the  extremity  of  weakness,  his 
chains  too  straight  to  be  endured,  and  threatening 
mortification,  he  was  released  from  them  to  lie  down 
and  die.  The  soldier  to  whom  he  was  last  chained 
had  served  him  with  great  affection,  and,  tliinking  it 
might  alleviate  his  pain,  entreated  he  might  spend  for 
oil  the  daily  pice,  about  three  farthings,  and  anoint 
his  legs;  but  the  captain  objected,  by  observing,  that 
he  would  then  have  nothing  to  buy  firing  and  salt  to 
cook  the  nest  day's  provision.  Sam  shook  his  head, 
and  said,  *^  Master,  before  that  I  fear  you  will  be 
dead,  and  never  want  it  !'*  But  who  can  tell  what  a 
day  may  bring  forth  ?  He  had  exchanged  his  al- 
lowance of  rice  that  day  for  a  small  species  of  gram, 
called  ratche  pier,  which  he  eagerly  devoured,  and 
being  very  thirsty  he  drank  the  liquor  in  which  thej^ 
viete  boiled,  and  tbi&.produced  each  an  amazing  eva- 
2 


(     287.    ) 

<^uat]on,  ihht  id  the  course  of  a  few  hours  he  was  re- 
tiuced  to  a  skeleton ;  and,  though  greatly  weakened; 
he  was  completely  relieved,  and  recommended  the 
trial  with  success  to  many  of  his  fellow  prisoners. 
After  remaining  in  this  wretched  prison  the  period 
before  stated,  he  was  liberated  with  the  rest  of  the 
British  captives,  when  only  thirty-two  remained  out 
of  one  hundred  and  fifty-three,  to  relate  the  dismal 
tale  of  their  sufferings. 

Being  restored  from  a  fever,  occasioned  by  eating 
too  eagerly  and  plentifully,  he  proceedr  1  to  Madras, 
liord  Macartney  had  forwarded  a  supply  of  clothes, 
which  not  being  sufficient  to  equip  the  whole,  some 
had  one  thing  and  some  another.     Captain  Wilson  had' 
a  very  large  military  hat,  a  banyan,  and  pantaloons  with 
many  a  breach ;  in  this  habit,  which  made  him  very 
much  resemble  a  maniac,  he  hastened  to  a  friend,  whose 
name  was  Ellis,  and  knocking  at  the  door,  inquired  of 
the  servants  for  their  master  and  mistress.     The  foot- 
men stared  at  him,  and  said  they  were  not  at  home,  and 
were  shutting  the  door  against  him,  when  be  pressed 
in,  rushed  by  them,  and  threw  himself  down  on  a  sofa. 
The  servants  were  Mahometans,  who  hold  the  insane 
in  much  reverence,  and  such  they  supposed  him ;  and 
being  left  quietly  to  repose  himself,  his  friends  found 
him  on  their  return  in  a  profound  sleep,  in  which 
state  they  left  him  till  the  evening ;  when  the  liistres 
were  lighted,  and  several  friends  assembled,  curious 
to  hear  the  story  of  his  miserable  captivity. 

He  again  engaged  in  the  sea  service,  and  after  many 
signal  and  providential  deliverances,  realized  a  for- 


(     288     ) 

tiiD6,  and  settled  at  Horudon,  in  Hampshire,  which 
Tetirement  he  cheerfully  left  to  undertake  the  naviga- 
tiog  of  the  Duff,  and  expose  himself  to  fresh  difhcul- 
ties. 

When  the  reader  is  informed  that  Captain  Wilson 
was  an  ayowed  infidel,  and  even  opposed  Christianity, 
he  must  be  surprised  to  find  him  a  zealous  agent  to 
promote  what  he  once  despised,  and  desirous  to  know 
by  what  means  such  a  change  of  sentiment  and  alter- 
ation of  conduct  was  produced. 

After  the  captain's  settlement  at  Horndon,  he  pro- 
videntially met  with  a  book,  written  by  Colonel 
Burn,  addressed  to  military  officers,  upon  the  subject 
of  religion ;  this  work  excited  his  curiosity,  fixed  his 
attention,  and  deeply  impressed  his  mind  with  a  sense 
of  the  importance  of  religion,  which  became  the  sub* 
ject  of  his  meditation  and  pursuit,  and  produced  in 
his  mind  an  earnest  desire  to  promote  the  happiness 
of  mankind.  The  Missionary  Society  afforded  him 
an  opportunity  to  give  an  unequivocal  evidence  of 
the  sincerity  of  his  profession,  and  the  ardency  of  his 
zeal. 

In  addition  to  the  ample  materials  afforded  by  the 
accounts  of  the  Missionary  Society,  an  officer  who 
was  on  board  the  ship  has  kindly  furnished  some  ori- 
ginal and  interesting  particulars,  which  will  render 
the  work  highly  acceptable. 


k 


THE  END. 


5 


^ 


M 


U 


.■•?»a 


